Dazzio Posted March 18, 2015 Share Posted March 18, 2015 Firstly let me apologise for not having put my thoughts down yet. I've had trouble recently with illness and work load. I had a little play with the USAF Vietnam set. Thus far I've only used the Dark Tan and I'm not impressed. I tried it neat first of all for the sheer hell of it, it refused to go through my airbrush (H&S Evolution 2in1) at 15psi. Then I tried thinning with Ultimate thinner. At 50/50 ratio, it sprayed well but it was puddling and looked more like a wash. I will experiment later on with thinned ratios. Hopefully I will get some time either tomorrow or Friday to try. Kind Regards Dazz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker77 Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 (edited) Hi Dazz, I have recently brought the Hataka Hobby 100ml Acrylic Thinner from emodels. With all this banter about the Hataka paints I thought it may help, it did me ;-) http://www.emodels.co.uk/hataka-hobby-100ml-acrylic-thinner-thr.html However as said before ultimate thinner works very well for me. Edited March 22, 2015 by modelmaker77 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dazzio Posted March 26, 2015 Share Posted March 26, 2015 I've not had a proper play with the paints tbh, I took the paints from 50/50 ratio to 30/70 ratio and it still sprayed like crap. However I put that down to my own incompetence over anything else. Hopefully I will get some time soon to mess around. I will have a go with the Vallejo thinners too. Thanks for the thinners tip Modelmaker77, will have a lookie what else they've got. Kind Regards, Dazz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Albeback52 Posted April 12, 2015 Share Posted April 12, 2015 My own experience with these paints has not been good. I bought both the RAF sets. I tested brushed every colour on an old, derelict model I'd prepared beforehand with a good matt white primer. Every colour was the same. Like coloured water rather than paint. Needed 4 - 5 coats at least for each colour & this was despite preparing the paints beforehand as recommended. Colour adhesion is also poor. After leaving them to harden for 24 hours, I applied the masking tape test. 8 out of the 10 colours lifted !! Needless to say I was unimpressed. Very poor quality & I binned the lot. I will not be buying any more. Allan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikesmodels Posted May 31, 2015 Share Posted May 31, 2015 I bought the Vietman set for my F4. Worst paint I have ever used. Extremely poor coverage even with a hairy stick. My advice avoid these, you of course may have better luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dazzio Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 Bit of a late one, I'm building an ME-109 E-4 right now and without thinking I used the Luftwaffe paint set. Picked up RLM02, and I can say it sprays quite well out of the bottle with a 0.4mm needle at 15-ish PSI. Building 1940's German aircraft so I am not too sure on the colour match but RLM02 looks a bit beigey to me, I will try and get some pictures later on. Kind Regards, Dazz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy Posted November 17, 2015 Share Posted November 17, 2015 Have bought a few sets and have had no problems at all with brush painting,best paint for brushing i have used Colours have been pretty good too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
At Sea Posted November 22, 2016 Share Posted November 22, 2016 Sorry for the thread resurrection but I read this thread before trying out my own Hataka paint set. The set I used was the Falklands war set. Mainly obtained for the Extra Dark Sea Grey for my Phantom FG.1. Using the advice above and a little experimentation I mixed 1/3rd Tamiya Thinner in with a drop of car screenwash as a flow improver. I airbrushed through a Iwata Neo at 25psi and it went on very nicely indeed. I like the ball bearing in the paint pot to help mixing. Aware of the comments about thin coverage and paranoid about losing surface detail or getting a run I primed with Halfords primer and then laid over a thin coat of aerosol Humbrol Dark Sea Grey 164. Colour wise it looks spot on, the blue tone to the dark grey is there. Very happy here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drareg Naitsirhc Posted December 25, 2016 Share Posted December 25, 2016 I did some trials with Hataka this weekend. I posted a small topic about the (interesting) results here http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php?/topic/296524-hataka-paints-made-in-poland/ 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fewr9fkr9595 Posted January 3, 2017 Share Posted January 3, 2017 On 25 December 2016 at 20:25, Drareg Naitsirhc said: I did some trials with Hataka this weekend. I posted a small topic about the (interesting) results here http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php?/topic/296524-hataka-paints-made-in-poland/ I did the same with me color levelling thinner today. Encoraging results 👍🏿 I used same 4/1 ratio and a tamiya HG superfine 0.2mm at 1bar / 15psi. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gregax Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 I've tried them yesterday on my test model... and ,that sorcery with levelling thinner doesn't work. I've read somewhere that the have changed the formula, but still. I will stick to Gunze, Mr.Color, MRP and Tamiya for spray work.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fewr9fkr9595 Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 1 hour ago, gregax said: that sorcery with levelling thinner doesn't work What happened exactly mate? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gregax Posted February 2, 2017 Share Posted February 2, 2017 Well - I've tried to dillute them with all the thinners i have at home. With Levelling thinner or Mr.color thinner - paint didn't dissolve, after some mixing it turned out to goey mess no matter how much thinner i've put in. Alcohol IPA - it does break up the paint, but pigments in paint just separate Tamiya acrylic thinner - does the job fine Hataka thinner - it is not drying fast enough for my taste Nitro - same as Levelling thinner Distilled water - works fine, but it dries for ages. What really bothers me is the fact that they dry dead flat. And they are hard to sand. Not to mention that the airbrush is really hard to clean when you are done. They do perform well with brushes. But i might have bad luck and get the old batch of paints. Final conclusion - they are really close to Autoair or Wicked paint that i use for helmet painting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesP Posted February 2, 2017 Share Posted February 2, 2017 51 minutes ago, gregax said: Alcohol IPA - it does break up the paint, but pigments in paint just separate Tamiya acrylic thinner - does the job fine Interesting as Tamiya is just diluted IPA with some retarder/flow enhancer added. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fewr9fkr9595 Posted February 2, 2017 Share Posted February 2, 2017 4 hours ago, gregax said: With Levelling thinner or Mr.color thinner - paint didn't dissolve, after some mixing it turned out to goey mess no matter how much thinner i've put in. They do go gooey at first, but constant stirring and more thinner does get them there. Its like 4 times more thinner than paint. So I add a drop of paint off of a toothpick to a shot glass with thinner in the bottom, mix that in then add another drop of paint if required. Adding thinner to the paint seems to make it take longer. Unless as you say its 'old' formula hataka that you have? Not sure when the change over was to be certain which version I have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gregax Posted February 4, 2017 Share Posted February 4, 2017 On the left is IPA alcohol... Note the change in tone of the same color - and it will end up in different (wrong) shades when it dries. I didn't take the photos of the dried paint, but the ones mixed with Mr.Color thinners were glossy and goey when pulled with a toothpick. Imagine sanding/coorecting them when on your model. The others dried matt and they could be sanded. Don't get me wrong, if You are satisfied with using them, just go for it. They might work for someone, but not me. Even when sprayed, they dry into full flat surface, which I don't prefer. I know that Levelling thinner is a magic product, but not in this case. I use it to dillute all the paints with them, but they just don't do the magic here. I'll stick to Mr.Color, Gunze H, Tamiya and MRP. @ Tony- When You dillute the paint that much, it will loose its ability to adhere. Did you try to mask it and unmask it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drareg Naitsirhc Posted February 4, 2017 Share Posted February 4, 2017 Did some trials with Hataka again. Mr. Leveling Thinner works well, if you use much of them. In case you thin not enough, you will have a lumpy mass. Thin more and stir well after the mix has the consistency of milk or so. I got some very nice results with this mixture and the H&S Evolution with 0.15mm tip. BTW, Hataka will release some laquer colour sets as well in their new orange line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fewr9fkr9595 Posted February 4, 2017 Share Posted February 4, 2017 (edited) 17 hours ago, gregax said: @ Tony- When You dillute the paint that much, it will loose its ability to adhere. Did you try to mask it and unmask it? Hi mate. The levelling thinner can work. Don't know what to say? It must be that the hataka paint I have is their supposed 'newer' formula that does work with it? The paint didn't loose any adherence and sprayed fine. I wouldn't need to mask when thinning like this because the whole point of having it this thin is to do free hand camo or detail work that doesn't need masks. Here is hataka blue and white mixed in levelling thinner - see airbrush cup bottom right of first picture. The main blue was sprayed with ump thinner, came out nice and satin. Then the lighter shade mixed with the levelling used for all the highlighting fading squiggles and mottles. Edited February 5, 2017 by Tony Oliver Pics 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nachjager Posted February 10, 2017 Share Posted February 10, 2017 (edited) On 2/2/2017 at 11:47 AM, Tony Oliver said: They do go gooey at first, but constant stirring and more thinner does get them there. Its like 4 times more thinner than paint. So I add a drop of paint off of a toothpick to a shot glass with thinner in the bottom, mix that in then add another drop of paint if required. Adding thinner to the paint seems to make it take longer. Unless as you say its 'old' formula hataka that you have? Not sure when the change over was to be certain which version I have. I concur with your comments, I tried to thin it with Leveling Thinner and, at first, it went gooey but after adding an insanely amount of thinner it went smooth and silky. Btw, the paint I used was the Have Glass color that came out with the USAF Modern jet set so I guess it is the ‘old’ formula. The final finish was a very smooth paint finish, with an eggshell effect that reminds me of the Mr. Aqueous line of paints. As a final footnote, I also experimented with Gaianote’s T-09M Thinner and the results were also very encouraging. Edited February 10, 2017 by nachjager Chaged text 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HATAKA OFFICIAL Posted March 2, 2017 Share Posted March 2, 2017 Guys, all problems with thinning that you have are connected with the old formula. Of course you can make the old formula work, but this is neither easy nor recommended. If you have some old sets that do not work properly, just write to us an fb or at [email protected] and we will send you a replacement Btw, I guarantee that you will be super happy with the new formula. However please remember that comparing it to Tamiya or Gunze H does not make any sense, as they are not purely water-based acrylics. Cheers Lukasz 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fewr9fkr9595 Posted March 2, 2017 Share Posted March 2, 2017 10 hours ago, HATAKA OFFICIAL said: Btw, I guarantee that you will be super happy with the new formula. However please remember that comparing it to Tamiya or Gunze H does not make any sense, as they are not purely water-based acrylics. Cheers Lukasz Lukasz, Just to try and clear it up for eveyone, From which set of the 'red line' would the new formula start from? Example from set-XX any of those in stock at a distributor will be the new formula. But from set-1 to set-XX, then depending on how old the stock is in a shop it may be old or new formula? Hope this makes sense? Tony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HATAKA OFFICIAL Posted March 2, 2017 Share Posted March 2, 2017 That is unfortunatelly not so easy, as we were improving the formula in several steps, but to be on the safe side you can assume that all sets starting with HTK-AS50 are 100% the final final formula. On the other hand all the refils were also done with the new formula obviously, so only the really old stock (if it happens to be out there for some reason) might cause problems Anyways - the statement from our side is clear. If you bought a set with problematic place, we will replace it Cheers Lukasz 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julien Posted March 2, 2017 Share Posted March 2, 2017 14 hours ago, HATAKA OFFICIAL said: Guys, all problems with thinning that you have are connected with the old formula. Of course you can make the old formula work, but this is neither easy nor recommended. If you have some old sets that do not work properly, just write to us an fb or at [email protected] and we will send you a replacement Cheers Lukasz Good news to see that service being offered. Welcome to the forum. Julien Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vinnie Posted March 2, 2017 Share Posted March 2, 2017 7 hours ago, HATAKA OFFICIAL said: That is unfortunatelly not so easy, as we were improving the formula in several steps, but to be on the safe side you can assume that all sets starting with HTK-AS50 are 100% the final final formula. On the other hand all the refils were also done with the new formula obviously, so only the really old stock (if it happens to be out there for some reason) might cause problems Anyways - the statement from our side is clear. If you bought a set with problematic place, we will replace it Cheers Lukasz Hi, Lukasz. I want to buy a set of Early Luftwaffe paints. I can only do this online so I can't check the AS number beforehand. All the adverts show AS02 on the box. Short of emailing individual traders, can you suggest which online suppliers are likely to have the latest formula. Thanks and regards, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HATAKA OFFICIAL Posted March 2, 2017 Share Posted March 2, 2017 Those Just now, Vinnie said: Hi, Lukasz. I want to buy a set of Early Luftwaffe paints. I can only do this online so I can't check the AS number beforehand. All the adverts show AS02 on the box. Short of emailing individual traders, can you suggest which online suppliers are likely to have the latest formula. Thanks and regards, Those are very popular sets and delivered in big quantities to UK - risk of getting the old one is almost zero in my opinion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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