Nearlymen Posted January 2, 2015 Share Posted January 2, 2015 (edited) I suppose really this should be titled what I did in my Holidays ! Anyway, being at a loose end I thought I'd pick up a Revell 1/48 Catalina and get on with that.... Ah ! noooooo..... alas I got somewhat sidetracked and went down a somewhat different course ! Now many years ago in 1968 my Dad bought and restored a little engine called Bonnie Prince Charlie and moved the loco to the GWS at Didcot where it can still be seen today. Alas a few years ago the cost of maintaining the loco and that everyone was getting on in years meant that we donated the loco to the GWS but I still have a soft spot for it. Anyway it's very unlikely that any major manufacturer would ever make a OO model so I thought I'd have a go myself. In the process of doing this I found a small firm called ARC models who make a BPC but it's somewhat stretched to fit the bachmann Percy chassis, very nice though and I've got a couple of them in the stash for a future project, but at the moment not quite what I wanted. Being a draughtsman, some years ago I prepared a GA of BPC so I Had a workng drawing to use and started with that and the intention of using the hornby/dapol ? L&Y Of pug chassis as a basis albeit somewhat modified by sloping the motor backwards in to the cab. So using the above drawing, and a disassembled pug I started work on a 3D model that could be printed in 3D to give me 'Charlie' or a near representation regarding the limitations of the printing process. Now I've never done this before so it's yet another string to my modelling bow !So I ended up doing a lot of online reading over Christmas on 3D printing design. Anyway the result was as follows after about 12 hours drawing time. I gone for the loco being in 3 sections to ease painting, and details like buffers, handrails, smokebox door etc will be added after. The big thing now is to get someone to check over this for me, then submit it for costing. If it turns out reasonable I'll proceed with the project some more. One thing is though the type of printing I need will be powder based not the home printing type of thing with a layered plastic string through a nozzle because they just don't look that good to me ! Oh well some more homework needed on that I think ! Cheers Clive Edited January 2, 2015 by Nearlymen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyC Posted January 2, 2015 Share Posted January 2, 2015 Haha! The little green engine! Love the back story - one of my favourite places to visit (even the wife loves it). If you can get this sorted, fair play to you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nearlymen Posted January 2, 2015 Author Share Posted January 2, 2015 Nice to know that someone enjoyed the 'little green engine' ! Spent a lot of my childhood in the 60's and 70's crawling over the loco (and riding on the footplate of course !). Charlie was the perfectly sized loco for inspired blokes like my dad to get to grips with ! If your wondering how much did he buy it for in working order in 1968.....??? 400 pounds ! A bit of a bagain ! Cheerio Clive 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyC Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 £400? Hell of a bargain - keep us posted how you're getting on with the possible model of No.1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nearlymen Posted January 3, 2015 Author Share Posted January 3, 2015 (edited) Well this seems a bit easier than I thought ! The final form of the model is as below (I've shown it in it's assembled form but it's still in three bits really) and added a few details for the cab handrail supports and steps etc. BPC 10 by Milord of Milford, on Flickr I sent the part files off to www.shapeways.com and got a quote for roughly 50 pounds. Now that's not too bad for a one off item, so plus the chassis which cost me 20 pounds off Ebay for a beat up Hornby pug with damaged bodywork (Perfect) the total cost is around 70 pounds, which is quite good for a one off unique item (other bits and bobs will come from the spares box ). Now I say one off.... BPC originally has a sister loco called 'Western Pride' which unfortunely got scrapped so if this project goes well I'll be tempted to build the pair ! As For 'Shapeways' the parts passed the online check ( an automated process which also corrects basic errors) and I've placed an order for a set of parts. the models though have now to be manually checked as well before manufacture and I'm waiting on that at the mo', but if all goes well I should have the parts back around the 18th Jan.As and when I'll post updates on Progress. Cheers Clive I will just say the whole process seems really painless Edited January 3, 2015 by Nearlymen 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben_m Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 Which material have you gone for? Strong and flexible? Or detail? Looks very good, well done. From my little Shapeways experience, I'm guessing you'll have to drill out all those small handrail holes. I was tempted to buy an ARC body shell of this loco over Chirstmas, as I've seen it at Didcot, but my eldest is not yet old enough for an OO layout (only 3 1/2 !). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nearlymen Posted January 4, 2015 Author Share Posted January 4, 2015 Hi Ben, After a bit of digging around on material specs I went for Arcylic ultra frosted. This gives fine detail and finish although at the expense of toughness (or that's how I understand it !) The other materials had limitations on minimum detail sizes which would make things look a little 'clunky' - great word eh !This I believe is the same material that Robex use for their 3D loco body models. Your dead right on the handrail holes, they are only acting as markers for drilling as I've yet to get hold of the brass posts so I'm unsure on the dia. As for the ARC models Charlie it's a nice little simple kit, and their Andrew Barclays models look really good too plus quite cheap for the money. My parts though at the moment are still in the manual checking stage at Shapeways so fingers crossed that they'll give them the ok ! I have to be honest and say this is a bit of a departure for me, normally I build Fleet air arm or late luft aircraft with the occasional oddball thrown in ( like my L&B style baldwin http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234967942-bachmann-forney-to-british-style-l-b-baldwin/). I've used resin, vac form's whitemetal, photoetch etc in the past but this is a first using printed models. Oh well all modelling is good modelling ! Cheerio Clive Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nearlymen Posted January 6, 2015 Author Share Posted January 6, 2015 (edited) Todays good news, the design passed through the manual design checking at shapeways and is off to be printed ! So the project is rolling on ! Cheerio Clive Edited January 6, 2015 by Nearlymen 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nearlymen Posted January 6, 2015 Author Share Posted January 6, 2015 Ok since the body is an ongoing thing I started to think about the chassis. Motor Mount by Milord of Milford, on Flickr I set out what I need to do and basically I need to rotate the motor back around 18 deg. Thing is I'm now thinking instead of chopping the existing chassis (which I have started to do today) I could instead just again detail a replacement part which is all set up to accept the motor at the revised angle, have it printed and then just attach all the hornby bits n bobs i.e. wheels rods, motor cylinders and slide bar bracket. What I'll do is hang fire for a while, think about it and then when I've get the body to work around move forward from there. Cheers Clive Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WindyWAFU Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 i believe you can get a body kit from ebay from a company called ARC models and i believe it is designed fro the Bachmann Percy chassis amd about £20. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nearlymen Posted January 7, 2015 Author Share Posted January 7, 2015 Yes indeed you can, but the kit although nice (I actually have a couple in stash) has been somewhat stretched to fit the Percy chassis which is too big. The Hornby L & Y pug chassis is far closer to the correct size. I could have chopped the kit but........ it's fun to try out some thing new ! The cost doesn't really matter that much equated against the knowledge gained here...... so......full speed ahead and damn the torpedoes ! Cheerio Clive Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nearlymen Posted January 14, 2015 Author Share Posted January 14, 2015 Oooooh........... look what came in the post today and 4 days earlier than the original estimate ! url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/67907021@N04/16093687487/][/url] IMGP3364 by Milord of Milford, on Flickr IMGP3365 by Milord of Milford, on Flickr Now I have to say I'm quite impressed by this. First time I've done any design that resulted in 3D printing and it's turned out rather well. As with all things there are one or two things I would change but that's only because I now have a finished product in my hands that I can get the feel of. The material is slightly more pliable than I thought, and I should have put a locating pin at the back of the cab into the running plate but it'll be glued in place anyway so no big deal. The printed detail is though very good and my initial doubts about the smokebox door (hence I left it off) have turned out unfounded so if I did this again I'd 3D model it in situ. But all in all, rather good even though I say it myself ! Cheerio Clive 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nearlymen Posted January 16, 2015 Author Share Posted January 16, 2015 (edited) Ok I look at this thread and think, lots of planning, not a lot of modelling.....well ...... ! IMGP3367 by Milord of Milford, on Flickr Not a huge amount done but I've started work on the chassis. On the main frames I've cut away the sand box since unlike a L & Y pug Charlies are on the running plate not the frames. Also I sprayed the frames with a coat of primer and got stuck in with the RSH house colour scheme or an approximation of it ! It's err.... very bright ! But you can see where 'Percy' got his colours from in the Thomas the tank books ! I've yet to make the pitched support bracket that goes on top to rotate the motor. I've also decided to keep the motion covers, not strictly correct as Charlies motion covers were fitted to the inside of the slide bars, but this is a conversion not a scratch build so I'll roll with it ! One thing though and that's the forward step on the running plate 'clangs' the motion cover so I'll have to cut that away ! oh well. I bet your thinking...hold on the wheels on the pug are disc wheels ? Only a berk would drill them out, and glue in spokes from 1 x 1 square extrusion..........errr yep I am that berk ! On the body I've now added buffers, and the smokebox door with it's dart handle. Next up is to drill out the hand rail holes, then prime and smooth the body work. That will do for a while and a few days off at the weekend. Cheerio Clive Edited January 16, 2015 by Nearlymen 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colin Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 That's coming along a treat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keefr22 Posted January 18, 2015 Share Posted January 18, 2015 Very nice, that printed body looks really neat! Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nearlymen Posted January 19, 2015 Author Share Posted January 19, 2015 A brief appraisal of the job so far ! IMGP3369 by Milord of Milford, on Flickr I sprayed up the body with primer, and a fair bit of cleaning up is required,glue behind buffers and smokebox dart handle (clear glue on a clear body is not a good mix !) plus getting rid of some of the more obvious ribbing from the printing process. I have though found out that the motion covers are not integral with the cylinders and can be removed which I've done and now the front running plate step can be used so I don't need to chop it away which I'm glad about. Still a loto fwork needed to get the chassis running nicely But I thought I'd just pop the major components together to get a feel of the proportions and I think 'Charlie' looks about right ! Now it's time to get out the needle files and the wet and dry and start to clean the body work up ! Cheerio Clive 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nearlymen Posted January 20, 2015 Author Share Posted January 20, 2015 (edited) IMGP3372 by Milord of Milford, on Flickr Well today I got the motion back on the chassis,plus also fixed the couplers back on. They all work ! All very tight but it was always going to be that way ! A slight 'tick' when the wheels go round but nothing that small pliers and a pin with some oil can't cure. Only downside is that I started to rub down the body and .....ran out of Halfords primer, so alas this is it until the weekend ! Did though take a comparison photo with a pug ( this maybe the basis for 'Western Pride' next) and a first glance you wouldn't think they started out the same...well at least the chassis ! Next up is complete the cleaning up of the body work, fix the handrails and get it painted. On the chassis is the mounting of the motor and soldering it up, then apart from final assembly that'll be the project just about done ! So it's getting there.....just slowly ! Cheerio Clive Edited January 20, 2015 by Nearlymen 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niall Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 One tip -When designing 3D prints try positioning curved surfaces vertically.For example - in your design I would have orientated the driver's cab on its back. This reduces the steppynes of the finished print. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nearlymen Posted January 24, 2015 Author Share Posted January 24, 2015 (edited) Niall, Thank you for that bit of info !! I'll incorporate that in the next 3D print I do.As it was my first shot at this 3D lark a bit of cleaning up was something I expected, but what you said is common sense when I think about it ! Cheers for that, and any further tips just pass'em along and I'll use them next time ! Oh and a quick update ! Got a 500 ml white primer from Halfords today so finished the cleaning up (with Niall's tip maybe not so much next time !), handrails are on (boy did that hurt my eyes !), primer cut back and smoothed, washed in a mild soapy solution, rinsed and is now happily air drying ! All ready for painting ! Debating wether to handbrush or get the airbrush out at the mo' ! Cheerio Clive Edited January 24, 2015 by Nearlymen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nearlymen Posted January 24, 2015 Author Share Posted January 24, 2015 (edited) Now then Painting ! There will have to be some simplification the scheme as at this scale my eyes just won't take the strain ! Picture 003 by Milord of Milford, on Flickr As you can see it's quite intricate so I'll go for the 'feel' rather than try and fully replicate it ! And on another note I understand that my Dad is 'Lurking' here and following this build with some interest ! So ......... Hello Pater !! Picture 004 by Milord of Milford, on Flickr Cheerio Clive Edited January 24, 2015 by Nearlymen 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyC Posted January 24, 2015 Share Posted January 24, 2015 Lovely work Clive - good challenge getting that black and red lining! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie_c67 Posted January 24, 2015 Share Posted January 24, 2015 Have you thought about printing decals for the lining for ease of eye? Seen it done on a SECR P-class and looked really smart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nearlymen Posted January 24, 2015 Author Share Posted January 24, 2015 Well my plan of action will be, paint all areas that are red first, then the green. Then mask everything so when I paint the final black I end up with a black border around the green areas. This will give me a basic unlined scheme. Then I'll search for some decal lining either in plain red or the black/red/black and do the major lining. only. This'll give the impression of the scheme but slightly simplified. Because I'm saying it'll be simpler you can look for it, but had I not said that I hope the eye won't notice because at this scale too much lining won't look right, I think less will be more if know what I mean ! Oh well we'll see how it goes, one thing I do know and that is it'll take a while ! Cheerio Clive Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nearlymen Posted January 31, 2015 Author Share Posted January 31, 2015 Ok here we go...again ! Slight disaster this week which really managed to annoy me but out of such has come some good so it's upwards and onwards ! Earlier this week I started the painting process and used my normal routine. Prime, cut back, de grease and paint, works a treat ! Except it didn't ! For some reason the humbrol paint would not cure, left it for 3 days and it remained tacky. Luckily it was just the base coat but in the end I got so frustrated I stripped it all off(pic below during this process). IMGP3378 by Milord of Milford, on Flickr Not quite sure what was going on there, I mixed it well did brush it on though maybe I should have airbrushed it ? Funny enough though I did have a similar problem some years ago on another project, plus my Dad is having problems with Humbrol colour consistency as well whilst building some Lynton and Barnstaple G gauge coaches, whatever though I fell like it's time for change ! So I went down to a local model shop and bought some Vallejo Arcylics, got out the airbrush and got to work ! What great paints they are ! I like the containers it comes in, the coverage is good and the clean up is...well idiot proof so ideal for me ! IMGP3382 by Milord of Milford, on Flickr Anyway the green and the red is on and looks good,next up is lot of masking and the application of the black, followed by a gloss layer. The important thing is though we are now moving Forward again ! Cheerio Clive 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nearlymen Posted February 3, 2015 Author Share Posted February 3, 2015 OK as of today ! IMGP3409 by Milord of Milford, on Flickr The basic airbrushing is done,next up is some 'touch up' work where the paint has worn through handling, followed by a coat of gloss varnish for the two body parts (for decals then satin later) and a satin varnish for the running plate ( I've decided on satin finish overall as I think matt will look too flat if you know what I mean). Then it will be assemble the chassis and get the motor reinstalled, whilst at the same time I do a little search for some suitable decal lining, like I said previously I'm not going overboard on this I'll just enhance the black lined panelling that I've already done with the airbrush. But todays major topic is....what the hell did I do with the nameplates ! Yep I had these made a couple of years ago (just for a rainy day you understand) put them away safe and now I can't find them !! Oh well today I reodered a set from Narrow planet along with the works plates ! Oh well upwards and onwards. Cheerio Clive 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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