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1/72 Blackbird Lincoln Conversion - Masks off!


woody37

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I had another 40 arrive last Monday, 35 gone already on trade oprders so I have 5 left in stock

Make that four. As Neil says, it'll be great to see more of these built. Mine'll be going on the back-burner for now whilst some other WW2 heavies are cleared off the bench. The RAAF nose extension will be cut down and used for a Mk.10AR Lanc (KB976)... which should make for a bit of a unique double build. I'm starting to be won over by the squadron codes as opposed to the aircraft serial in large format on the fuselage. Looking really good

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WV908

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Looking great Neil,

I`d always preferred the large serial on the fuselage too but I must admit that the sqn codes are growing on me too. I`m looking forward to you applying your magic to the finish,

Cheers

Tony

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Make that four. As Neil says, it'll be great to see more of these built. Mine'll be going on the back-burner for now whilst some other WW2 heavies are cleared off the bench. The RAAF nose extension will be cut down and used for a Mk.10AR Lanc (KB976)... which should make for a bit of a unique double build. I'm starting to be won over by the squadron codes as opposed to the aircraft serial in large format on the fuselage. Looking really good

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WV908

A Mk 10AR Canadian Lancaster - now that's one I've always wanted to build - I hope you start on yours sooner rather than later. KB976 - was that the last Lanc anywhere in service?

Regards,

Jason

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A Mk 10AR Canadian Lancaster - now that's one I've always wanted to build - I hope you start on yours sooner rather than later. KB976 - was that the last Lanc anywhere in service?

Regards,

Jason

As far as i'm aware, yes. Lynn Garrison's Lanc which became (until 2014) the last Lancaster to make a transatlantic crossing. She's the fateful Strathallan Lanc that was crushed :weep: at Woodford. Long story short, most of KB976 + the mid and rear fuselage of KB994 are in storage as a kit of parts at Kermit Week's facility in Florida. Why is this relevant do you ask? Well the remainder of KB994's fuselage and the trashed parts of KB976 ended up with the kit of Lincoln parts (RF342) in Australia

EDIT: There's other bits dotted around like the trashed tail at Doncaster and the extended nose on Jeremy Hall's fuselage. There's a website for it all, but it takes a few read throughs of everything to get over the confusion of it all and where each bit is now haha

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WV908

Edited by WV908
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Beautifull build. Interesting technique using Klear as a decal solution. I've tried this in the past and had mixed results. I think it depends on the thickness of the carrier film. If the Klear dries out before the carrier film you can end up with silvering and distortion.

Never the less a lovelly build, well executed.

Mike

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As far as i'm aware, yes. Lynn Garrison's Lanc which became (until 2014) the last Lancaster to make a transatlantic crossing. She's the fateful Strathallan Lanc that was crushed :weep: at Woodford. Long story short, most of KB976 + the mid and rear fuselage of KB994 are in storage as a kit of parts at Kermit Week's facility in Florida. Why is this relevant do you ask? Well the remainder of KB994's fuselage and the trashed parts of KB976 ended up with the kit of Lincoln parts (RF342) in Australia

EDIT: There's other bits dotted around like the trashed tail at Doncaster and the extended nose on Jeremy Hall's fuselage. There's a website for it all, but it takes a few read throughs of everything to get over the confusion of it all and where each bit is now haha

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WV908

I remember seeing that Lanc at Woodford in sections, was gutted when I heard many years after that it had been crushed, glad some of it still exists. Look forward to your Lanc build :)

Beautifull build. Interesting technique using Klear as a decal solution. I've tried this in the past and had mixed results. I think it depends on the thickness of the carrier film. If the Klear dries out before the carrier film you can end up with silvering and distortion.

Never the less a lovelly build, well executed.

Mike

I applied the Kleer before the decal film dried, but I used the end of the modelling blade to pierce the surface of the decal, particularly inside the lettering so that the Kleer can get underneath. The main risk is moving the decal and it sticking in the wrong position (guess how I know that? lol), but never had issues with it causing silvering though.

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Neil, re the above method of getting the Klear under the decals, it sounds quite precarious? Have you tried applying a small amount to the area where the decal is to go and then laying the decal down onto it. Then roll the excess out with a damp cotton bud. It's a system I use to great effect.

Colin

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I will have to have a read back through this woody you Shute have got this together quick as you always seem to and it looks fantastic. Such an elegant looking beast I love it.

Nice scheme too. Apparently the one at Cosford is haunted.

Cheers Rob :)

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Beautifull build. Interesting technique using Klear as a decal solution. I've tried this in the past and had mixed results. I think it depends on the thickness of the carrier film. If the Klear dries out before the carrier film you can end up with silvering and distortion.

Never the less a lovelly build, well executed.

Mike

I use Klear as a decal bedding agent with the addition of diluting it, I've used 50% up till now but might try 30% water & see how that goes after my P-47 build. The dilution gives more working time & allows for repositioning. If you not happy with it, work a paint brush under the edge, flood in some more dilute Klear, shift it to where you want it, damp cotton bud to roll out excess & watch it settle into & over the scribed lines & small raised bits. Bigger raised bits might need a small slit to settle over them Ok & a small touch up. It does work.

Steve

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I use Klear as a decal bedding agent with the addition of diluting it, I've used 50% up till now but might try 30% water & see how that goes after my P-47 build. The dilution gives more working time & allows for repositioning. If you not happy with it, work a paint brush under the edge, flood in some more dilute Klear, shift it to where you want it, damp cotton bud to roll out excess & watch it settle into & over the scribed lines & small raised bits. Bigger raised bits might need a small slit to settle over them Ok & a small touch up. It does work.

Steve

Thanks for that Steve, I hadn't acutally thought of diluting it as the decal is already wet but I'll give it a go.

Colin

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I always use Klear to set my decals I don't use the conventional method though I slide the decal onto a puddle and then position it the. Lightly press down then make final adjustments and if it sticks too early use a little bead of water then press firmly down with a cloth then apply some neat on top when I'm happy. You have to work fast and this only works with old Klear. It's better than micro sol as it actually melds them to the paint and sucks them right onto detail. That said I use micro sol/set too with the Klear.

I wish o knew what the chemical is in Old Klear that has this magic effect on decals as I know nothing that performs this way.

I can remember when I first found Klear it was 50p at tesco and did not realise it was on Klear. If I knew then what I know now about its many magic properties I would have bought the lot. I wish they would bring it back as a modelling solution rather than a household product.

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I remember seeing that Lanc at Woodford in sections, was gutted when I heard many years after that it had been crushed, glad some of it still exists. Look forward to your Lanc build :)

KB976 is back in the UK and owned by Jeremy Hall, and is at Brooklands (http://www.avro-lancaster.org/index.html) He is actively trying to reunite his nose and fuselage with the surviving tail section.

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Interesting discussion on using Klear as a decal setting solution. My current build of the Revell Ventura ran into problems with the kit decals and it took three days of using microsol to get the last bits down.

Each to their own!

Mike

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Microsol is the way to go with the particularly awkward areas. I would not be without either and always on the look out for new solutions to problems. I hear of people using white vinegar too but I am not sure how or if this works.

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Microsol is the way to go with the particularly awkward areas. I would not be without either and always on the look out for new solutions to problems. I hear of people using white vinegar too but I am not sure how or if this works.

Same thing Rob, acetic acid, which is the basis of Micro-Sol so I'm relably informed... I've got Mr Mark Softer and Solvaset in my goodies box, the latter being the most toxic/useful.

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