S5 modeller Posted December 11, 2014 Share Posted December 11, 2014 Hi chaps. Want to thin this ancient humbrol clear red so I can airbrush it. Any ideas what to use? I'm not sure if it is enamel or not, the only thing on the label is to clean the brush with celulose thinner. Presume this makes it enamel? I've got a bottle of enamel thinners from my LHS ( which smells suspisciously like turps) would that be ok? Don't want to add the wrong thing and mess up the paint. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks. Matt, the clueless. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steelpillow Posted December 11, 2014 Share Posted December 11, 2014 It is not enamel, do not put enamel thinners into it! Presumably it is cellulose based, more like a lacquer or dope: try cellulose thinners. Take care - the thinners it highly volatile so you will need extra ventilation. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Gordon Posted December 11, 2014 Share Posted December 11, 2014 (edited) G'day Matt, If you don't ask then you won't know. I did a little test with mine.First I tried my newly found thinner of choice for Tamiya Acrylics.It is a mixture of water,isopropyl alcohol and caustic soda and it works a treat.At a little under nine quid a gallon it gets my vote 'cos I'm a cheapskate. Not a success.The clear red turned to caked snot. I then tried a drop of cellulose thinners. This worked a treat.I wouldn't consider using this mixture on transparent parts though,it would irretrievably wreck them. Oh,by the way,here's my pot of goop. Hope this helps. Edited March 10, 2021 by Alex Gordon Replace Photobucket URLs. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S5 modeller Posted December 11, 2014 Author Share Posted December 11, 2014 Cheers chaps, cellulose it is then. That was a rather nice little demo alex, did you get the caked snot off the brush ok? Steelpillow, call me strange, but I like the smell of cellulose thinners. Use it quite a bit, find it's good for stripping paint off my kits, it worked quite well, as long as it wasn't left on the bare plastic for too long. Will put a bit of thinners in it tomorrow, and I don't intend to use it on clear parts, trying to create a nice candy effect by spraying it over a silver base coat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Gordon Posted December 12, 2014 Share Posted December 12, 2014 (edited) Yep,the brush cleaned up a treat,with celly thinners Edited December 12, 2014 by Alex Gordon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jenko Posted December 12, 2014 Share Posted December 12, 2014 I have used the green version in the past.......... never again !!!!! Use Tamiya clear............. a million times better .... acrylic based Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steelpillow Posted December 12, 2014 Share Posted December 12, 2014 While I think of it, a tip for car rear lights, of the type that come chromed but you need to paint them red. The Humbrol red is a touch purplish to be convincing. One coat Humbrol clear red. One coat Humbrol clear amber. Top coat Humbrol clear red. Gives a nice, deep "this light is switched off" lustre. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jenko Posted December 12, 2014 Share Posted December 12, 2014 Also for rear lights. If they are in the same plastic as the body...... paint silver ... allow to dry and the use a permanent overhead projector pen and colour over the silver. Also works well on clear plastic. (Small areas) HTH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Noble Posted December 12, 2014 Share Posted December 12, 2014 Alclad clear colours work brilliantly for lights. Dry in minutes and you can mix them to create different shades.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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