hendie Posted June 6, 2017 Author Share Posted June 6, 2017 2 hours ago, TheBaron said: This Pullmanary Artistry continues to have my rapt attention. Well, almost a bit of a disaster this evening... I began fitting the orange boxes to the chassis. I've been very conscious of the layout of said boxes being asymmetric, and marked everything out, having to drill the chassis at a couple of points to make sure I got enough strength in the parts. It's a bit confusing because I'm looking at the photo's the right way up, but I'm working on the chassis upside down - don't anyone dare ask why I didn't just turn the photo upside down ! I spent about an hour this evening positioning everything and finally got the epoxy glue in place and set everything up on one end of the chassis. Then... *cough* just as the epoxy was going off, I noticed that I had two sets of boxes swapped on the wrong side of the chassis !!! Eeeeek ! I managed to get things ripped out just in time without too much damage. There will be some minor clean up required but not as bad as having the parts in the wrong location! Booger! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hendie Posted June 6, 2017 Author Share Posted June 6, 2017 2 hours ago, TheBaron said: Hendie does the Pink Panther jewel heist? Will you be leaving a glove behind with an embroidered 'H' on it? I had considered adding my name on the top of the vestibule shear plate (as it is on the 1:1) which will eventually be hidden by the roof. However you make a good suggestion - I may try and add something "personal" to the interior before the build is over. (but I do like the embroidered glove idea) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hendie Posted June 7, 2017 Author Share Posted June 7, 2017 Disaster recovery complete. [breath sigh of relief] I'll warn you beforehand that it's yet another very small update, and all the photo's are of the exact same piece of train - the electrical connections at the end of the chassis. Maybe not the most exciting piece of scratching, but for me, it was important. Sorry for the quality of the photo's... black on black is not the easiest thing to capture. I had a little bit of salvage work to do this evening to clean up the remains of the epoxy glue left over from last nights close disaster - so here's how it looks... Then from underneath (which no-one will ever see). I have a little bit of touch up to do later but all easy stuff. Those cables entering the rear of the boxes were problematic - I had to put such a tight bend on them to clear the bogie that it put a fair bit of stress on the joints - which was why I had decided to use epoxy glue in this instance. But those cables will be visible from the side so it was worth the effort. Then a view from the business end. It's all taking shape though at a much slower rate than I had anticipated. Chain is ordered so as I can get the buffer collars mounted as soon as that arrives. I shall add more of a downward bend to the looped cable to give a more weighted effect once the glue has fully cured. I also just spotted that I should really have modeled the connector on the extreme left with the cover closed - my reference photo had a plug connected and I was so focused on getting the shape right that I completely forgot that this car will be standalone, therefore no other cable to plug in. I'll see if I can modify that later. now just the other end to do ! 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichO Posted June 8, 2017 Share Posted June 8, 2017 Another fine job well done. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perdu Posted June 9, 2017 Share Posted June 9, 2017 Lovely Why don't you 'just' model the socket innards and leave it open In the world of commerce many a socket gets left open because 'idle operator' surely be the same on The Railways... Jesting apart it isn't going to take much to close it is it Lovely lovely attention to Hendie (Hendie being what we mortals call such amazing detailing. The term came into being when said bloke built a jellychopter a while back.) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigdave22014 Posted June 9, 2017 Share Posted June 9, 2017 7 hours ago, perdu said: Lovely Why don't you 'just' model the socket innards and leave it open In the world of commerce many a socket gets left open because 'idle operator' surely be the same on The Railways... Unfortunately, they're sprung (they also act as a second catch to hold the plug in). 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roy vd M. Posted June 10, 2017 Share Posted June 10, 2017 I finally finished reading all of this thread. What I like about these kinds of projects, of the one-off type, is that there are so many things to be learned and technical marvels to be discovered, not only in the build but also in the subject it represents. I also like the nostalgic combination of industrial looks (the bogies) with cozy interior. This topic is full of wit, descriptions of useful techniques and history (thanks for that Bigdave22014, among others) and has proven to be a fun read overall. I'll certainly keep following this and look forward to more of the above. The model progresses beautifully. One of the key characteristics of your style of modeling is that you won't allow anything to be misaligned or even slightly angular where it should be straight. I can really appreciate that kind of ambition and effectuation of the same. On 2017-5-28 at 4:35 PM, hendie said: And as dictated by the Father of Modeling, Hieronymus Receptacle II, in his work "the collected tenets of modeling" Page 34, Chapter 3, Rule 7: "The time, effort, and skill spent on a single task will be inversely proportional to the sum of the attention it gains from onlookers, while any flaw, omission, or inaccuracy will exponentially detract from the quality of the finished model. I think famous master modeler Hieronymus Receptacle II was quite right to perceive this (or, the principle as described). In scale modeling, any weak link is usually spotted first and will devaluate the rest of a model or diorama. A closed grille (that should be open), a slight misalignment of a decal (that should sit absolutely straight), an ejector pin mark (that should have been filled)... these are things that draw the eye of those who study the model closely and critically. Coming back to the suggestions given about making the roof detachable I must agree. In one of my models I have implemented this building principle: This clearly shows the interior can be seen in full detail, as opposed to: Amazingly this is the same kit, only now the interior details are hardly visible at all. I would rest my case it it weren't for your remark that you're going to lock this model up inside a glass display box. Is it not possible to actuate a roof-removal mechanism from outside of the box? For example, pushing a thin rod (from the bottom of the display case) which rod enters the car at a less-than-prominent spot and which rod pushes the (hinged) roof open. Or, two ultra-thin (fish?) wires attached to the top of the (hinged) roof. If thin enough these wires are almost invisible. They could be led to the top corner of the display case for you to pull; the weight of the roof, perhaps helped by a small spring or two, should ensure closure of the roof upon release of the wires. Hopefully you'll not keep these exquisite details hidden... Now I'll patiently await your next instalment of this very special build. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in Lincs Posted June 10, 2017 Share Posted June 10, 2017 On 6/5/2017 at 5:48 PM, perdu said: when you learn that Postal vehicle (Mail train) corridors were offset to one side So, thinking about it, with a centerline coupling, the gap to cross between coaches would be different on a Left hand bend as opposed to a Right hand bend. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hendie Posted June 10, 2017 Author Share Posted June 10, 2017 7 hours ago, Roy vd M. said: Coming back to the suggestions given about making the roof detachable I must agree. Roy, I'm glad you are enjoying the thread. Regarding the detachable roof - I am starting to think that this will have to be an option. I haven't put a lot of thought towards it yet as it is still so far down the line before i get to that stage, but it will have to be addressed. as you and others have so rightly pointed out - there will be a lot of detail in there and it would be a shame to lose it 7 hours ago, Roy vd M. said: Is it not possible to actuate a roof-removal mechanism from outside of the box? it would certainly be possible but I'm not sure I would end up with a very elegant solution. I am going to look into servos and controls for RC models - I am sure I'll be able tofind something there that I can adapt. On 6/9/2017 at 5:25 AM, perdu said: Why don't you 'just' model the socket innards and leave it open I'd like to as it looks more interesting that way, but.... 19 hours ago, Bigdave22014 said: Unfortunately, they're sprung (they also act as a second catch to hold the plug in). So, I've closed one up, and still one to close The chain arrived yesterday so I'll try and get the buffer collars fitted this weekend (provided the chain is the right size) I think I have to take a small step back from the "build" part of the build as I really need to finish the decal artwork as it is going to become the bottleneck preventing me from proceeding further. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heloman1 Posted June 13, 2017 Share Posted June 13, 2017 Wow Hendie, those elec, connections look the dogs danglies good work mate. Colin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in Lincs Posted June 13, 2017 Share Posted June 13, 2017 On 6/7/2017 at 11:46 PM, hendie said: Then from underneath (which no-one will ever see). Unless you build a section of rail using mirrored sleepers for it to sit on! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hendie Posted June 13, 2017 Author Share Posted June 13, 2017 well, it's time to sit back, take stock and have a rethink. Today was not a good modeling day here at Chateau D'hend. Or to be more precise, not a good painting day. I started with the vestibule end - simple enough I thought. I have come to realize that I have an irrational fear of painting. I love the building bits, the scratching bits, and all the other bits (well, transfers isn't much fun), but when it comes to painting, this fear has been growing over the last few models and has really reared its ugly head with this one. Anyways, on with the vestibule end.. primed, cleaned and all I had to do was cover it in brown paint. So what could go wrong eh ? Well, apart from the few small bits of oose (they must have teleported in 'cos I swear it was clean when I started) that magically appeared, there was one spot. One tiny spot that for whatever reason decided not to take paint ! Aaarghhhhhh So on to the side frames. The side frames have not been my happiest modeling moment and they've been a booger to get this far. So, I had already painted the cream color a while back, but wanted to give it another coat so I could give it a nice polish. What could go wrong this time ? well, the paint reacted in some areas for starters. Then the issue I had previously with the glue destroying the finish on the surface has come back to haunt me. This time around I used a minimum amount of glue to bond the "C" channel on the rear face. However, it seems not little enough. I had spotted some sink marks when priming but it didn't look too bad, but now that the gloss coat is on, it really amplifies the sink marks. I'm going to let the paint dry then take another look at it when I've cooled down a bit. But at this point, I have a feeling I'm going to be making another set of side frames but using some other type of glue for bonding. mutter mutter mutter...... 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perdu Posted June 14, 2017 Share Posted June 14, 2017 LIKE That there's an update UNLIKE What's happening to the paints I can't remember, are you using enamels or crapylics? It don't matter none, you'll sort it in quick time order I'll come back from France and you'll be ahead again I'll look in next Tuesday Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBaron Posted June 14, 2017 Share Posted June 14, 2017 On 2017-6-7 at 11:46 PM, hendie said: I'll warn you beforehand that it's yet another very small update, and all the photo's are of the exact same piece of train Precisely what attracts so may of us to this build I suspect. 11 hours ago, hendie said: I started with the vestibule end - simple enough I thought. I have come to realize that I have an irrational fear of painting. I love the building bits, the scratching bits, and all the other bits (well, transfers isn't much fun), but when it comes to painting, this fear has been growing You have no idea just how reassuring it was to read that piece of honesty hendie: I thank you for your frankness in mirroring my own trepidation about such matters. You will certainly transcend these limitations of matter and pigment in due course. Tony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigdave22014 Posted June 14, 2017 Share Posted June 14, 2017 Hendie, sorry to hear of your paint troubles. Jumping ahead a short while to your roof, a possible solution may be to use a "piano hinge" along one side with actuator rods at each end? Just an idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Heath Posted June 14, 2017 Share Posted June 14, 2017 Quote One tiny spot that for whatever reason decided not to take paint ! May be a spot of silicone got on there somehow. Gentle sanding and repainting should sort it out. Can the sink makes not be filled to salvage the side panels? 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hendie Posted June 14, 2017 Author Share Posted June 14, 2017 7 hours ago, TheBaron said: I thank you for your frankness in mirroring my own trepidation about such matters. I think it's made much worse in this instance because of the fact that the surfaces to be painted and very large and completely flat. I've noticed in past builds that I tend to put off painting until I have no other choice but in this build, the feeling is an order of magnitude greater. Of course, being large and flat will make every little blemish stand out just that much more. 4 hours ago, Nigel Heath said: Can the sink makes not be filled to salvage the side panels? I don't think so. I'll take another look tonight now that the paint is dry. I had spotted a few small sinks previously, but thought that may add to the realism as a "tin canning" effect. However, a brief inspection last night made me think otherwise. 4 hours ago, Bigdave22014 said: Jumping ahead a short while to your roof, a possible solution may be to use a "piano hinge" along one side with actuator rods at each end? That's one option. Terry Bye sent me a photo during the week of another model of a Pullman displayed with the roof open which really piqued my interest. That model was much larger being 1/12 scale so hinges were a bit easier to incorporate, but I think it can be done. I'm thinking more along the lines of a cabinet hinge - one that swings out as well as open - to prevent the roof fouling the side frames as it opens. Now I just need to find some microscopic cabinet hinges (or make my own!!) 7 hours ago, perdu said: I can't remember, are you using enamels or crapylics? I used Alclad primer, followed by enamel which worked fine. It was the second coat which started to react. I normally use acrylics and have never had any issues with those. 7 hours ago, perdu said: It don't matter none, you'll sort it in quick time order that remains to be seen. let's see what tonight's inspection reveals. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandy Posted June 14, 2017 Share Posted June 14, 2017 I'm so glad I'm not the only one who hates the painting part....... Ian 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larchiefeng Posted June 14, 2017 Share Posted June 14, 2017 I painted and sanded and painted my Mercedes so many times before I got it perfect that, during the whole process, I realized that, in the end, it's just paint and it can be sanded off and repainted as many times as it takes to get it right. It's just paint and it can be fixed; don't worry about it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hendie Posted June 14, 2017 Author Share Posted June 14, 2017 52 minutes ago, limeypilot said: I'm so glad I'm not the only one who hates the painting part....... seems there's a few of us out there - maybe we should form a club 48 minutes ago, larchiefeng said: it's just paint and it can be sanded off and repainted as many times as it takes but the styrene behind it is only so thick.... I think I have a few attempts left So, on to todays saga... let's start with the not-so-bad part of the day. the chain arrived and at first glance the link size looked pretty good (I had to guess when ordering) The chain was duly cut to length, added to the buffer collar mounting, then fixed to the chassis. Looking at this photo I may have the length of the chain a little bit too long, but scale-wise, it looks fine. My home made chain link still needs painted though at this point I am also reworking the orange connector on the end so I have a little bit of touching up left to do. I'll take another photo when it's all finished. Now, welcome to my nightmare... the vestibule end and the tale of the styrene paint repeller. . One spot ! one tiny little spot - booger! I have since sanded this all down and I think it's recoverable. (as long as nothing else goes wrong!) Those of a nervous disposition - please go to another thread now. Warning: The following post contains some disturbing images. Viewer discretion advised. THIS is what gave me palpitations last night... erks alors ! That is extremely nasty - isn't it. (rhetorical - no-one needs to answer) Then, just to add insult to injury.... this happens (yes, you can rearrange the letters in "this" to form another, perhaps more apt, statement) What gods have I upset recently huh ? Then just to make my evening perfect I started spotting these type of sink marks. it looks like I've carved this side frame out of balsa using my teeth So, thoroughly despondent and with sinking heart I tried bringing myself back to some semblance of normality by conducting my very own root cause analysis and settled on the theory that it was the styrene glue reacting (obviously) with the styrene and causing it to "pull" on the styrene as the glue dried, thus creating the imperfection in the outer face. It sounded reasonable enough to me. Now to test my theory.... i had a spare side frame kicking around - a spare dozen or so, actually. So I bonded some "C" channel to the side frame using E6000 which is more of a rubbery/silicone like compound and does not eat styrene the way the usual cement does. I left it on a flat surface overnight with a couple of weights to apply some pressure to the bond. Then tonight I found this.... You can clearly see where the channel is bonded on the reverse face. Based on that - it is clear that the styrene glue does have an impact, but is not the only factor at play. Pressure also plays a part in this fiasco. Maybe I just picked the wrong medium to use. The one photo I didn't take tonight but will at the next session - is the same view as the photo directly above, but of the side frames in the third picture. After the paint dried, the tin canning effect really diminished, so much so that I am actually considering using them.... though I still have some convincing to do with myself. The alternative is to start again and this time, apply a supporting structure behind the side frames which does not impart excess pressure on to the styrene as it is bonded. Perhaps a brass channel assembly, pre-soldered, then bonded just using superglue and a very light press on the styrene. until next time... 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roy vd M. Posted June 14, 2017 Share Posted June 14, 2017 @hendie This is the time where some modelers give up or find inspiration in other subjects, throw their many tens of hours (hundreds?) of work in the bin, their research to forgetfulness. I'm quite convinced that isn't going to happen here. Sometimes three steps back means exactly three steps back... which seems like an absolute bummer... or utter THIS. But at one point you'll realise that you're going back from step 154 to 151 and that should put things in perspective. The way I estimate your situation, all is not lost and everything could be restored, redone and finished in a neater way than ever. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hendie Posted June 15, 2017 Author Share Posted June 15, 2017 (edited) 1 hour ago, Roy vd M. said: I'm quite convinced that isn't going to happen here. you are correct Roy. One way or another I am determined to see this through 1 hour ago, Roy vd M. said: Sometimes three steps back means exactly three steps back... sometimes it does Roy. it happens to us all at some point or another 1 hour ago, Roy vd M. said: .. or utter THIS. 1 hour ago, Roy vd M. said: The way I estimate your situation, all is not lost and everything could be restored, redone and finished in a neater way than ever. that's the plan ! well, plan A at least Edited June 15, 2017 by hendie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichO Posted June 15, 2017 Share Posted June 15, 2017 Nice statement Roy. I agree hendie, hang in there, we know your skills will recover this to perfection, and all will look great. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBaron Posted June 16, 2017 Share Posted June 16, 2017 mutter mutter <something about those whom the Gods would destroy>snort. Hendie: this is no doubt an idle and uninformed thought but would using an upturned warm (but obviously not hot) clothes iron with the affected plastic surface placed upon it (maybe a thin layer of greaseproof paper to keep them separate) allow gravity and heat to restore a flat profile? It's simply an idea based upon watching plastic sag in the oven when playing around with vacforming, and I wondered would this be a lower temperature alternative that could allow incremental correction to a flat surface? To be tested on scrap first of course... Tony 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hendie Posted June 16, 2017 Author Share Posted June 16, 2017 8 hours ago, TheBaron said: but would using an upturned warm (but obviously not hot) clothes iron with the affected plastic surface placed upon it (maybe a thin layer of greaseproof paper to keep them separate) allow gravity and heat to restore a flat profile ... possibly, but with probably more skill, determination and patience than I have available. Nice out of the box thinking though. Thanks. I took another look at it last night and it is much better than I first feared. However, I think I can do better. So a quick google for materials last night means that I'm going to have to spend a few $$$, hopefully surreptitiously, or I could get hammered by you know who. And she's just told me that we're (note the "we" are) going on vacation around July 4th, just as the locals are celebrating some quaint festival or something around here. I quite fancy New Orleans, and just found a great hotel - unfortunately, I don't think I own a set of clothes they'd let in the front door. My sartorial leanings tend more towards the army & navy store than panama hats. anyways, now I need to go and order a boat load of brass and some sheets of styrene. I'll try making another set of side frames once I get that here, and use the best sets for the car. Then it's transfers. With all the train buffs out there, I am really surprised that no-one does a set of transfers for a Pullman in 1/32 scale. I think I may have now found a path forward in that respect - if I get a response... I hate it when people don't respond to emails ! I just need to get the transfers finished - it takes a surprising amount of time for such a seemingly simple task 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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