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Scratch Build of 1951 Pullman Carriage


hendie

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Nice job on the bogies and wheels. I love styrene, a person can model just about anything with it. Keep building my friend.

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  • 4 weeks later...

In between multiple jaunts to far away places and waiting on supplies to arrive for the Wessex, I dragged myself back to the carriage build again.

I had to change my plans slightly as to how the bogie internal frame was constructed. I had initially planned on having the C channel upright - however when I tried some dry fitting I discovered that I would have had to cut a substantial amount of brass away to get it to fit nicely behind the bogie side-frame. However, laying it flat so that I had an inverted "U" worked out a lot better.

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It looks pretty simple but I had a lot of phaffing about to ensure that the cross frames didn't interfere with the wheels and that I had enough room for the bolster etc.
So the frame now sites nicely inside the side frames and once all painted up will hardly be visible.

P1230004.JPG

I managed to find a PDF online with instructions for folding up a smaller scale PE version of this bogie - it came in very handy in trying to figure out how this is all going together.
I take a screen shot from the PDF, insert it in my CAD program, blow it up and then I can trace over the PDF. Once I'm done, I can take a reference dimension from the blown up trace and then scale it down to 1/32 for use in my build - all very handy!

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This is a quick rough cut of one of the bogie components ....

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... which, when folded up resembles a small spidery thing.... or is it a pushme pullyou ?

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This structure will sit in the middle of the bogie. This rough cut version is mainly for messing around with to try out some ideas. I don't think styrene is going to be strong enough to support the weight of the carriage once it's completed, but the styrene will help me figure out how the geometry is all going to interface together.

P1230009.JPG

Another quick dry fit shows that you can still see a small piece of the brass at the top of the axle cut outs - they need to go!. - Thankfully, the wheels still fit in there - I have about 0.75mm clearance on each side - a close fit but I couldn't have asked for better. That will actually help me with the design later.

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A few swipes with a file removes the offending material - not pretty at this point but I'll tidy that up later.

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Worked out nicely. You can still see some of the brass at the back, but that will be hidden once the leaf springs are put in position... after I get around to making them!

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Once again, just a small update but a critical one that I needed to get done before I can move on with this build.

Edited by hendie
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Wot !!! Two updates in two days... what's going on ????

Well, I am waiting on materials for the safety raiser - that's what's going on. So After spending about 2 and a half hours shoveling snow today I retired to the basement and got some more of that modeling malarkey done. I thought for a little while there that I had lost some of that mojo stuff, but then it dawned on me that I just haven't had the chance to spend any time downstairs. Once I was done there and started messing about it all came back to me. (phew!)

After much to-ing and fro-ing and throwing some ideas around in my head about how this thing is going to hang together, I decided to kill the styrene shape idea. There was just too much going on there and it was making things extraordinarily difficult.... when it doubt.... keep it simple! I decided to go with a single plate in the center.

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You can see in the photo above that I've marked the center and center punched it. I got to use my pillar drill, or drill press as they call it here, in anger for the first time.

The plate was then soldered to the bogie frame

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After studying as many photo's as I could find of the bogie, I decided I needed a deep "U" channel to connect to the carriage - however, I came across a slight problem in as much as I didn't have a channel deep enough.... but after looking at what I had handy, I came across some equal angle which looked promising.

I cut two lengths of the angle and soldered them together to form a channel, and whaddya know... it worked! I now had to drill a hole in the center of the channel - that was a bit frightening but the solder held admirably.

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The plan (Plan A at the moment) being that I can use brass tube to keep everything centered - and it will double as my mounting point to the carriage later.

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Part B of plan A was to use these smaller channels to support the cross beam

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However, a dry fit of the assembly showed me that it was now a bit tight in there and I didn't have enough room to make any adjustments later.

There should be about 0.125" between the bottom of the chassis and the top of the bogie flange.

P1240006.JPG

I opted to go with some flat bar in the end. This leaves me with enough room to fit support blocks on top of the cross member and also room enough to adjust the height of the bogies relative to the chassis. It's a bit agricultural but it works - and once I have everything else on there, very little will be seen above the bogie side frame.

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As reference - it should look like this when finished. (and those decals and pin striping are going to be fun!)

640px-Gresley_bogie_%286972647478%29.jpg

I couldn't resist a quick taping up of the bogie frame work to see what it was going to look like. - A little bit of trimming and I think that will pass muster. Now I just have to attack the second bogie and get that one up to the same state of build.

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It's very tempting to glue the styrene frames to the brass now but I want to make sure I have all the soldering done before I commit to gluing anything as we all know that styrene doesn't play well with big hot things.

For a while there I was very intimidated by the bogies, but now that I am getting into it, I am starting to enjoy this part. There's still a lot to be added to these - brakes, springs and all sorts of frame work, but I think I have broken the back of the bogies - Now that I have figured out my mounting method, the rest should be a lot easier. (famous last words!!!)

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Great as always Hendie.

Re the stripes - I have various sheets originally made by Kemco and now available here

http://www.modelmasterdecals.com/index.php

Originally meant for model railways, it comes in several colours and widths and includes radii too. They are presfix style so you peel off the back and they are slightly 'tacky' so can be placed where you want before wetting the carrier paper.

Great for wing walkways and 'break here' panels.

Trevor

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  • 1 month later...

Okay folks - a very small update - mainly to prove that this thread has not died. The Wessex is nearing completion, or would be if a bunch of dunderheids would keep quiet and stop coercing me into making ridiculous little apparatus, trappings and just general stuff for the scene.

Anyway, enough of my nonsense and on to the ridiculously small update... This was something I should really have taken care of as I was building the main frame of the chassis, and before I attached the styrene floor... the bolster plates! This is where the bogie attaches to the chassis - we can't have the wheels falling off the train now can we ? Ergo, I need a method of attaching the bogies (once complete) to the actual carriage. Now if I had thought ahead and done this way back when I was building the frame I could just have soldered the bolster plates in position. However, now I have the styrene floor in place, there's no way I can attack the frame with my gas torch, otherwise I'd melt the floor and have paint peeling everywhere.

So I came up with another method.... first, cut the bolster plate. The hole in the center is where I'll be attaching the bogie via some brass tube and a nut and bolt. I then drilled some holes along the outer edge of the plate, completely forgetting to take photo's. but I'm sure you know what a few holes look like.

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Those holes were than transferred to the chassis frame, which were then tapped with a 2-56 thread.

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As you can see - I may need to do something with the screw heads - they're standing a bit proud. But even with the heads ground down a bit, 4 x 2-56 screws will hold the bolster plate firmly fixed in place, especially since it's going to be a static model.

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Before I fix the bolster plates in position I'm going to either solder, or glue a nut on the reverse face of the bolster plate - that will secure the bogie in place and also give me a method to remove the bogie in the future should the need arise.

I'll know more once the bogies are complete and I'm able to set the ride height properly.... but I do need to think through things a bit more thoroughly in future.

... and this weekend I'm off up north again so it's going to be a couple of weeks before I can get back to this build... told ya it was a very short update!

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I did a little work for some chaps in York restoring some Pullman carriages, they had all sorts of drawings, right down to the light fittings... I'll see if I can find some details..

I still have all the structural drawings I did back in the last century, but if you have any details of the brake system or any of the greeblies hanging underneath the chassis, that would be great

Well that was a very nice update, short but sweet but no more welcome for it and great to see a tap and die being put to good use. Excellent stuff hendie.

Thanks Nigel - I foresee a good bit more tapping in my future with this build

Edited by hendie
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Lovely to see such painstaking work. Your build is a brilliant example of why going the extra mile is worth it!

A question: what CAD program do you use? I use my graphics program, Xara, but dedicated CAD software would be great.

Cheers,

Fraser

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