Flankerman Posted November 22, 2014 Share Posted November 22, 2014 Just when I thought I had enough submarine kits (see :- http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234970734-new-1350-scale-submarines-uss-g-washington-hms-m1-etc/)to be getting on with, up pops the postman with this new kit from Hobby Boss. I ordered it from Hobby Easy on 15 November and it was delivered today (22nd) - 7 days door-to-door - excellent service Despite its size, it is quite a simple kit - the hull is in upper and lower halves with a separate 'sail'. The most numerous parts are the missiles - 24 tubes each in two halves, with 24 X 2-part missiles - plus all the caps and hatches. Alternate etched-brass propellers are provided and the small decal sheet gives markings for the depth numbers and escape hatches - but not the prominent white waterline markings around the whole hull. It's a huge model - 50cm long and 6.5cm wide! This sprue is repeated 4 times - to provide the 24 missiles and tubes etc.... Final sprue with sail (with alternate top) plus the propellers and diving planes (the front ones work!!).... Alternate etched-brass propellers..... I'm not sure about the acoustic tile detail - is it overdone ??? Some photos show the hull completely smooth - other pictures show the tiles - maybe a trick of the light ??? I chose this HB kit over the Micro-Mir version because I wanted to have the missiles on display - I'm not sure what the MM version is like ?? Ken 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jockster Posted November 22, 2014 Share Posted November 22, 2014 I've got the Hobby Boss 1/700 version,engraved tile detail on this one too. Do I keep it or fill them in. I really am in two minds about it. The tile pattern is different from yours too, a block of 4 of your tiles matches 1 on the 1/700. It should be the other way round! Can't wait to see what you do with this one! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flankerman Posted November 22, 2014 Author Share Posted November 22, 2014 Here's the dilemma........ These internet photos show a reasonably smooth finish...... While these two show a rough tiled finish...... What is a boy to do ???? I'm hoping a few coats of primer, followed by a rub-down, might get somewhere between the two. Discuss.................... Ken 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
youngtiger1 Posted November 23, 2014 Share Posted November 23, 2014 Ken, nice to see you building this. I have the old dragon Typhoon Class but I was wondering if the new kit is worth getting. Looks like some nice detail on it. I'll have to pull out my old kit to compare the detail. Keep up the good work Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessica Posted November 23, 2014 Share Posted November 23, 2014 The old Dragon kit's stern is entirely fictional. I tried converting it but eventually gave up once the Alanger kit was released. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jockster Posted November 23, 2014 Share Posted November 23, 2014 I was going to go for the Alanger kit till Ken opened this thread, Hobby Boss have produced some lovely sub kits so far so I guess my stash isn't as complete as I thought it was! Bugger! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitestar12chris Posted November 23, 2014 Share Posted November 23, 2014 HI Ken go with the tiled look as its accurate, re the mikromir typhoon its a smooth finish from what ive seen, heres some reference photos from my library, the alanger was minus the tile pattern as well as well as conning tower windows. Hope this helps all the best Chris 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperService Posted November 23, 2014 Share Posted November 23, 2014 The movie mock up for The Hunt for Red Oktober was impressive enough but are a mere hint of the size of this beast. I have to get one. No i must! Thanks for the reference pictures as well. Awesome! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitestar12chris Posted November 23, 2014 Share Posted November 23, 2014 Hi sleeper heres a couple more reference pics hope they help 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jockster Posted November 24, 2014 Share Posted November 24, 2014 Awesome big beastie! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flankerman Posted November 24, 2014 Author Share Posted November 24, 2014 Meanwhile......... The retractable bow planes are designed to work - a bit like a Tornado swing wing......... But they are too flimsy and you need three hands and the patience of Job to get the spigots all lined up - plus there is a huge gap in the hull when they are deployed. As I don't intend to play with them (accompanied by the appropriate man-noise), I have modified them so that I can slot them in place at the end of the build..... I also 'blanked off' the inside of the slot with plastic card. The 24 missile tubes are each in two halves (48 parts in total) - I don't intend to have all of them open, but I glued them all together, painted the interiors and started to fit them in place inside the lower hull. The fit is sloppy and they can lean all over the place - so I fitted a few, then put the upper hull temporarily in place to make sure they lined up with the apertures at the top.......... As you can see - a couple need adjusting before the glue sets..... If I were to do it again, I would fit the front and rear two sets of tubes, line them up with the upper hull - and when solidly in place, use those as markers to line up the rest of them by eye. Ken 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jockster Posted November 25, 2014 Share Posted November 25, 2014 I like the look of that,Ken, I'm not too keen on having the missile hatches open usually, preferring smooth clean hull lines, but I like the possibilities that spring to mind for detailing. I may go for this kit! I like what you've done with the planes, retractable is a nice gimmick but better to add them last to prevent breakage. The 1/700 version has them as a single piece'plank' secured by a pin. Without the pin,they can be slotted in at the end. I'm really liking the idea of having ALL the hatches open. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cosmosman Posted November 25, 2014 Share Posted November 25, 2014 I also bought the 1/700 scale version. Its there some kind of bulkhead below the main deck that seals off the top of missile tubes from the rest of the sub ?. Just love the size of these monsters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flankerman Posted November 26, 2014 Author Share Posted November 26, 2014 Its there some kind of bulkhead below the main deck that seals off the top of missile tubes from the rest of the sub ?. No - it's all open and unrealistic. I added a plastic card 'screen' (with I-beams attached) between the two rows of tubes, then added I-section plastic beams on the outer tubes..... As I was planning to only show the front and rear tube doors open, so I only did the front and back - but things went wrong and I resorted to Plan-B and did the whole lot.... Here's the upper hull and one hatch temporarily attached....... I doubt that my 'fix' is totally accurate - and I'm making it up as I go along - but at lease it gives the impression of some kind of stucture inside the missile compartment - without too much extra effort. My intention is now to have only a few of the middle tubes open - with the rest closed and flush. Ken 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonC Posted November 26, 2014 Share Posted November 26, 2014 The 24 missile tubes are each in two halves (48 parts in total) - I don't intend to have all of them open, but I glued them all together, painted the interiors and started to fit them in place inside the lower hull. 20 tubes surely? It's looking great so far. IMO the tile effect is accurate but overscale. If you were a total masochist youu might consider toning them down with Mr Surfacer or equivalent. Apart from that, it's hard to see what you could do. cheers, Jason Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flankerman Posted November 26, 2014 Author Share Posted November 26, 2014 20 tubes surely? It's looking great so far. IMO the tile effect is accurate but overscale. If you were a total masochist youu might consider toning them down with Mr Surfacer or equivalent. Apart from that, it's hard to see what you could do. cheers, Jason You are correct - the sub has only 20 missiles/tubes - but HB give you 4 sprues with six tubes (and missiles) on each. So you end up with 4 spare tubes, covers and missiles plus two 'spare' intakes and rear diving planes. Re the tiles - I was planning to try and tone them down..... Ken 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cosmosman Posted November 26, 2014 Share Posted November 26, 2014 Looks loads better Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rom1 Posted November 26, 2014 Share Posted November 26, 2014 hi Ken! nice work! I will certainly buy one.. even if I would prefer to find the 1/144 Alnager one.. Bye Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jockster Posted November 27, 2014 Share Posted November 27, 2014 The missile hatch looks a good fit! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flankerman Posted November 27, 2014 Author Share Posted November 27, 2014 (edited) The hatches fit OK - but can be a bit recessed, so to make the closed ones sit flush with the upper hull, I added some plastic card inside.... It also stops them falling through - and provides a greater surface area for the liquid poly when they are glued in place from the inside! I was planning to fit the large scimitar-shaped props at the end of the build by push-fitting them inside the ducts - I even thought ahead and painted the insides of the ducts. Luckily I discovered in time that you can't do this - 'cos the 'working' diving planes are in the way - so the props were painted gold and fitted at this stage........ might be a difficult masking job later?? Note that the props are handed - so fit them the right way round - the HB instructions are correct in this regard. I also glued the dive planes in place - slightly angled down for effect - but no working gimmicks on this build. HB also supply etched props - they have to be bent to the correct pitch and the boss from the plastic version has to be cut off and used with the etched props. I decided just to use the injection moulded props. There is one slight error in the HB instruction sheet at Step 2 - where they refer to the lower hull part as the Upper Hull - the mistake is obvious. Ken Edited November 27, 2014 by Flankerman 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessica Posted November 29, 2014 Share Posted November 29, 2014 Looking at the picture in post #9, it appears that Hobby Boss fell afoul of the usual problem with submarine screws and moulded the pitch and sweep backwards. You may wish to reconsider using those brass blades if it's not too late. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prowler0000 Posted November 29, 2014 Share Posted November 29, 2014 Oh good: ANOTHER sub for my stash.... Getting some great tips from you, Ken. As usual! (& Jessica's observational skills are a bonus!) & i worked out why there are 24 missile tubes..... Red October conversion!!!!!!!!! "We Shail into history..." 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flankerman Posted November 30, 2014 Author Share Posted November 30, 2014 Looking at the picture in post #9, it appears that Hobby Boss fell afoul of the usual problem with submarine screws and moulded the pitch and sweep backwards. You may wish to reconsider using those brass blades if it's not too late. You are right Jessica - but its too late now...... I looked at those plastic props three times before deciding that they were OK - but they aren't. As fitted they would propel the sub backwards !!! HB did the same thing with their Oscar kit - but I corrected them by cutting off the hubs and reversing the whole assembly. I think I'll have to live with the errors on the Typhoon - trying to get them off will be more damaging. At least the props are out of sight inside the ducts - ho hum. Ken 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flankerman Posted December 1, 2014 Author Share Posted December 1, 2014 OK - more progress.... I managed to get the incorrect props out of the ducts - so the etched brass ones will now be fitted at the end - hopefully rotating the right way!! The completed model was given a spray of Halfords White Plastic Primer - just along the centreline - then narrow masking tape was used to mask out the white waterline. A rattle can of Halfords Red Plastic Primer was used for the anti-fouling red on the bottom of the hull, which was then masked off. I think black is too stark in this scale - so I used another rattle can - Halfords Rover Tempest Grey, followed by random patches of Halfords Volvo Dark Grey for some contrast...... This is what it looks like after removing all the masking...... I think the white line is maybe a bit too wide ??? - I should have used narrower masking tape..... She is now ready for the decals..... .......followed by a rub down and a dirty up........ and a final coat of Games Workshop 'Purity Seal' to matt it all down. No airbrushes were harmed in the making of this model .... Ken 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitestar12chris Posted December 1, 2014 Share Posted December 1, 2014 Hi Ken, out of interest what green paint did you use for the interior/missile hatchs? as finding it hard to make an enamel paint match so far. (probably have to mix my own). All the best Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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