georgeusa Posted November 25, 2014 Share Posted November 25, 2014 From all the comments about what is wrong with this kit, it looks like every part will either be extensively modified or just be substituted by a scratch built part. What fun you will have with this one! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hendie Posted November 25, 2014 Author Share Posted November 25, 2014 fun?... yeah, that's the word I was looking for! 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeusa Posted November 25, 2014 Share Posted November 25, 2014 Hey, you are the one, well, one of the main ones, that keeps encouraging me to scratch build for the "enjoyment " and "satisfaction" it brings. I blissfully, for decades, was an OOB builder. Now, I have to correct things. Sheesh! Anyway, I am looking forward to see your magic! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S5 modeller Posted November 25, 2014 Share Posted November 25, 2014 Nice work Hendie. You might want to slow down a bit, or you will be overtaking nigel for the title of " most builds finished this year " Seriously though, nice progress on this build. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moaning dolphin Posted November 25, 2014 Share Posted November 25, 2014 Nice start to this build, will be watching with interest. I thought it was a nice accurate kit (stand fast the decals) but the more builds I see the more the faults are coming out! If you are planning to have a transmission platform open then perhaps you should go for the starboard side as that would make it easier for the location of the winch cut out or if your a real sucker for punishment maybe both! From what I remember they are not particularly busy in that area compared to some. I must also agree with the rivet detail, it doesnt look good, same with the hasegawa Seaking, but good luck should you want to rectify that LOL! Cheers now Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hendie Posted November 26, 2014 Author Share Posted November 26, 2014 I spent tonight working on the new frames. They are still in process with not much to show at this point. I spent most of the evening just getting the profile right. Hopefully I will have something to show by tomorrow evening. I'm trying a wacky idea for the rearmost frame and will be interested to see how it turns out. Me I'm not too sure they actually measured one at all Hendie, I hope you were watching when I showed you how to make bulged windows in acetate so you can cut out square and angular windows When I made my XR525 I got close and intimate with her at Cosford, all her little fixtures and plugs are somewhere in my 'pooter Not pretty photos, (I can't do pretty) but yours if you need them mate I knew there was a reason I bought that 50 year old Mattel Vac-U-Form ! I have been studying the kit in more detail and really starting to formulate how to attack this build. I definitely plan on having at least one trans deck open, but starting to contemplate both decks open. After studying the kit, I realized that I shall also be forced into creating yet more framework as with the kit design, the top of the trans deck supports the mesh around the rotor head, and it'll look silly without the appropriate support framework in there. I noticed a few more panels missing - i.e. the extinguisher access panels on the nose. Also, the more I look at the kit "gearbox" the more I dislike it. I know that opens up a whole can of worms, but it's started to bug me. The problem is - if I bodge together a new gearbox - can I support it sufficiently (above the deck) using a patchwork of struts in some way approaching the real thing. Another alternative is to bodge a gearbox shaped thingy, then support it above the deck using a small wire underneath. Hopefully the wire will disappear among the mass of other doodads, dohickey's, gizzits, and trinkets that I'll try and cram in there. The panels immediately aft of the cabin door are a bit strange. It looks like there has been an insert in the mold and there's been poor alignment. Those panels appear almost inset from the rest of the airframe. There's very little I can do about that so hopefully the cabin door will hide the worst of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kwaterous Posted November 26, 2014 Share Posted November 26, 2014 Well, I've managed to find this one earlier than the last two, so I'll be watching K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heloman1 Posted November 26, 2014 Share Posted November 26, 2014 Your correct on the fuselage inserts, Italeri initially intended and prossably still do, to release the kit as an H-34. With the 40th Anniversary of the Falklands, the HU5 kit was released first and then the HAS Mk3. With careful sanding and filling the mismatch can be succefully hidden. Also a lot of the lanel lines are incorrectly engraved but then the panel lines bertween HU5's and HC2's differ. Check and chaeck again... Colin 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NAVY870 Posted November 26, 2014 Share Posted November 26, 2014 One issue I have with these Wessei kits is the way the rotor head sits after its built. I the the main rotor gear box in canted foward throwing the whole ting off whack. I dont remember the heads on 31B's looking like that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heloman1 Posted November 26, 2014 Share Posted November 26, 2014 One issue I have with these Wessei kits is the way the rotor head sits after its built. I the the main rotor gear box in canted foward throwing the whole ting off whack. I dont remember the heads on 31B's looking like that Morning Steve. You're correct in that the kit being iffy re the MRH but yes it does lean forward and to starboard. I folded the blades on my HAS Mk1 so it isn't prominent. If you look at (pics of) a Wessex parked with the blades spread, the front blade starboards side is closer to the ground than the others. Colin 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex-FAAWAFU Posted November 26, 2014 Share Posted November 26, 2014 (edited) Dunno about doing it with only the thrust of a couple of Adours...... Speaking of odd aircraft Crisp. Where's the Barracuda Touché! OK, I take the point about the Adours. I was talking a few weeks ago to Chris "Goaty" Götke (just after he'd stooffed the Sea Fury at CU), and I asked him whether racking the Fury round with no engine over the crowd at Culdrose had been one of his more..."exciting" moments in a cockpit. He came straight back by saying that a single engine failure immediately after take-off from Boscombe in an ETPS Jaguar was way more scary; "for some reason I cannot now analyse I decided to stay with the cab - I must have been somewhere around the Yeovilton MATZ before I got to 1000' AGL". The Barra WILL be completed... eventually - though I have found a lot more reference material in the past few weeks, and I've made some pretty nasty errors. I actually have no fewer than THREE of the Special Hobby MkIII kits, plus a MkII, so it is not completely impossible that I will start again and try to learn from my mistakes. For obvious reasons I want the Barra to be as good as I can make it. For now, however, just don't distract me from Ark Royal, or everything will end up on the Shelf of Doom! I have been tempted to start several other projects during Ark (Vixen Mark 1 and an entry to the Sea King STGB early next year in particular), but so far have just about resisted... so don't you start. It has taken me 14 months to get her to where she is now, so there could easily be another 6 to get her done - maybe more. I am just impatient to see where you go next, because those JPs are astonishing. Stop faffing about with pizza-related holidays and get them over the line, man! Edited November 26, 2014 by Ex-FAAWAFU 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perdu Posted November 26, 2014 Share Posted November 26, 2014 Your correct on the fuselage inserts, Italeri initially intended and prossably still do, to release the kit as an H-34. With the 40th Anniversary of the Falklands, the HU5 kit was released first and then the HAS Mk3. With careful sanding and filling the mismatch can be succefully hidden. Also a lot of the lanel lines are incorrectly engraved but then the panel lines bertween HU5's and HC2's differ. Check and chaeck again... Colin That's absolutely true. When I was making XT601 as an HAR2 I was almost amazed to find that almost every Wessex 2 was different from every other one The HCs and HARs although 2s were very different in oddball small items, external plugs, aerials and the like seeming to appear and vanish between photos even of the same airframe. Hendie when you choose your airframe STOP looking at other pictures except for general info, one reason I haven't cascaded you with pictures of XR525s underbelly. Bound to be different to your chosen baby. If you want anything specific from 525 however I always welcome an excuse to pop over to Cosford from Sutton Coldfield. Let me know. As for the rotor gearbox, didn't I read that the main gear shaft is tilted at 5º to the front? I know that both of mine look right to me and in photos and they have that tilt built in. I always build in the blade spacing getting biased by the weight of the blades against the dampers too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hendie Posted November 26, 2014 Author Share Posted November 26, 2014 As for the rotor gearbox, didn't I read that the main gear shaft is tilted at 5º to the front? I know that both of mine look right to me and in photos and they have that tilt built in. I always build in the blade spacing getting biased by the weight of the blades against the dampers too. Yup, the MRGB is tilted forward. Isn't it also offset to port as well? I was looking at it this morning - took the day off before thanksgiving so I got the house to myself. I think the kit gearbox is too far forward. It's going to take a lot more thought and planning than I thought if I am going to scratch one. I think the entire upper surfaces of the Italeri kit are off to some degree. I went to start cutting out the trans deck and noticed the issue. If I follow panel lines on the 4+ book matching up to the kit panel lines, the rear of the trans deck falls at an alarming angle. I think I am going to have to make a compromise for aesthetics sake. Additionally, the bulkhead between the cabin and the trans deck is too thick. If I follow that thickness and cut just behind it, the front edge of the deck is too far back. I don't know whether to try thinning it down or just make a new one from scratch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nimrod54 Posted November 26, 2014 Share Posted November 26, 2014 Very late to the party on this one, but I can see it is already turning into a classic Hendie build. More of the same please. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perdu Posted November 26, 2014 Share Posted November 26, 2014 Oh oh. The slippery slope beckons... Could you just fill and rescribe the lines and go back to plan Z whereby you just have one trans panel open and popped over the winch body I haven't handled one of these kits yet so I only have pictures from you and others to guide me This was supposed to be so superior to the Revell kit too, wasn't it, now I am not so sure There's work ahead with either kit, good job that's what we do isn't it I know it will be superb when you finish anyway no pressure then 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hendie Posted November 26, 2014 Author Share Posted November 26, 2014 Starting with one hokey jig to allow me to position the rearmost bulkhead - I need this because my fat fingers won't fit in there. Many file a bit, try a fit, file some more a bit repetitions followed Once I got the contour right, I cut a small section of soft drinks can, marked some lines on it, then drew those lines in with a pen - pressing hard. This gives some semblance of strengthening formers in the panel. I might try another one - I used a fine tipped pen here and I don't think the lines are pronounced enough. Next step was to remake the frame again - this time to the right shape! After much thought, reference scanning and general internal turmoil.... I bit the bullet with regards to the trans deck. I decided that I couldn't follow the true panel lines as it would have looked awful on the kit, so I drew a few lines until I got one that I thought looked close enough yet still looked somewhat realistic. Then it was out with the razor saw - after the first few scribes there was no going back. It probably took me close to half an hour to cut this one out - yes I broke sweat on this one. I know I have cut very close to the window and that's going to cause issues with the bulkhead later but that's far enough in the future for me not to worry about it right at this moment. Now you see it..... Now you don't ! A quick dry fit of the frame to see what it looks like in situ.... Followed by what you will eventually see when the thing is put together. You can see what I mean by the mold insert not aligning properly in the photo above. Just take gander at the trench line around the windows oh - and another small issue is that the transmission deck doesn't actually tough the sides of the fuselage when assembled. onwards and onwards to more fun, fun, fun! 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abat Posted November 26, 2014 Share Posted November 26, 2014 Courageous stuff. I like your style and thinking. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NAVY870 Posted November 26, 2014 Share Posted November 26, 2014 (edited) Morning Steve. You're correct in that the kit being iffy re the MRH but yes it does lean forward and to starboard. I folded the blades on my HAS Mk1 so it isn't prominent. If you look at (pics of) a Wessex parked with the blades spread, the front blade starboards side is closer to the ground than the others. Colin Agreed Colin, but I think Italeri got over excited in that area. Folding blades on a Wally? Thank God I dont have to do that anymore! Edited June 14, 2015 by NAVY870 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in Lincs Posted November 26, 2014 Share Posted November 26, 2014 It was fitting them that I didn't enjoy! Hendie, Looking better. The gearbox, Been thinking & looking at the pics in walkaround. it's really just two truncated cones. Supported by four wishbones. Shafts in & out & a Hyd res on the LHS. swashplates and then the head.Simples. The rest is pipes & doodads. I see what you mean about the window insert. The basic S 60 was used all over the USA, There must be one close to you to play with? We had to change a transmission deck once. The new J T was told to remove all the hyd pies. He did. no labels though! That was fun! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hendie Posted November 26, 2014 Author Share Posted November 26, 2014 Well, last update for today - now I've got to go and do thanksgiving stuff. Since I managed to get the frame and bulkhead made, I thought I would continue with the transmission area. Starting with the kit bulkhead, I cut off the cooling fan, tried to shape it a little bit, and then stuck whatever odds and ends I could find onto it. So far it consists of the kit fan, one piece of the Dauphin left over tail rotor, some styrene discs, rod and a rivet head that I drilled through to provide the drive flange on the shaft, and a piece of brass tube. It looks a lot more like the cooling fan than the kit version, that's for sure. I cut a small stand for the fan from styrene sheet. The non-symmetry is intentional - as far as I can tell from the extremely limited photo's of the area, the mounting bracket is definitely not symmetrical. (modelers license purchased this morning - good for 6 months now!) View from t'other side. You will also have noticed that I attached it to my soft drinks bulkhead with a blob of blu-tac. The bulkhead turned out reasonable I think. There's lots more gubbins'n'stuff to be added, but I think I have a decent starting point. Surprise! That rear bulkhead can actually be seen inside. Oh tinkerbell - that means I shall have to scratch more mathingammybobs to go in that area now! Positioning inside isn't bad at all. (I'll need to so some thinning of the kit plastic around the openings). Now all I need to do is figure out how to make a drive motor and fan belt! Of course, nothing is glued in place yet so if I discover a decent photo of that mounting bracket I can always change it. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
infofrog Posted November 26, 2014 Share Posted November 26, 2014 That looks like a nice model Hendie . Rick As Nigel would say That is a very lovely job Hendie .Please keep posting more photos chap . 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perdu Posted November 26, 2014 Share Posted November 26, 2014 I hope you make the fuel tank of metal Then you will be able to start her up and fly away looks brilliant, I like the drinks can bit I'm getting quite attached to the stuff myself too 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex-FAAWAFU Posted November 26, 2014 Share Posted November 26, 2014 (edited) That's a huge improvement already; like the Coke can bulkhead Edited November 26, 2014 by Ex-FAAWAFU 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hendie Posted November 27, 2014 Author Share Posted November 27, 2014 (edited) ... it's really just two truncated cones. Supported by four wishbones. Shafts in & out & a Hyd res on the LHS. swashplates and then the head.Simples. The rest is pipes & doodads. ah... I didn't realize it was going to be that easy - thanks for that! The basic S 60 was used all over the USA, There must be one close to you to play with? There's about a dozen of them sitting in a small airfield about ten miles from here. Not sure they'd let me in though. They tend to shoot first and ask questions later over here. Edited November 27, 2014 by hendie 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kwaterous Posted November 27, 2014 Share Posted November 27, 2014 If you asked nicely??? Always works for me, mind you, I've never tried anything like this, and I'm Canadian... K 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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