Humbrol acrylics

[GordonD]

Am I the only one who hates using Humbrol acrylics in the original pots with the flip-top lids? I find that after the first time I use them, the pigment has sunk to the bottom of the pot and even after extensive stirring and shaking I still end up with either a very watery solution on the brush, or else something with the consistency of treacle. It's as if the lid isn't making a proper airtight seal once the outer plastic wrap has been removed.

I believe that only the early batches of acrylic paint were supplied in this type of pot - Humbrol switched to the current screwtop lids after a short while. Was this because of the sealing problem? I also seem to remember hearing that the paint formula was changed in later batches. Again, was this down to poor quality?

The trouble is that for the less-popular colours where turnover will be slow, stocks are more likely to be of the early batches. Whenever I pick up a pot, my heart sinks if I see it's a flip-top, And sometimes I wonder if anybody will really notice (or care) if I cheat and use, say, US Gull Grey instead of RAF Barley Grey...

[Black Knight]

There could have been a problem with the flip-top pots not sealing. I've bought many a pot which, even though fully sealed, were dried up inside.

The flip-top was/is also able to unscrew, the white top from the blue base. Make sure yours are tight.

But I don't get the problem you are experiencing; once well stirred my paints stay that way for a long time.

US Gull Gray instead of Barley Grey; I wont notice the difference. .....................................................But there again, I am colourblind!

[cruiserguy]

Hi Gordon,

I tried Humbrol acrylics, and after several attempts at using them decided they were just OK, but there were better paints on the market. Unless you have to buy them, I would avoid Humbrol acrylics, and buy Lifecolor or Vallejo instead.

Best Wishes,

FWIW Will.

[GordonD]

Thanks for the tip, cruiserguy. But I don't have a problem with the Humbrol acrylics in the screwtop pots so I'm happy to continue using those.

[robvulcan]

Get some Windsor and Newton Flow improver it will help keep them right and paint much better, But can also rejuvenate a treacley mess

[Cookenbacher]

I took Rob's advice and I managed to salvage several pots of Humbrol acrylics that must have been shelf sitters before arriving at my door.

[Ben C]

Just found this in the search after picking up three flip-tops yesterday and finding all three contain a treacley mess. Only thing is, my model shop is 16 miles away so not really a case of pop back in and swap...

Guess they'd been sitting, 166 and 168 which I bought for my Victor. Think I'd be better off with enamels and spraying them on something as large as a Victor anyway...!

[PhantomBigStu]

learned that a lot of the problems I had with humbrol previously were more my error, like not thinning them enough, bad brushing technique etc so thought having learned a lot since I swtiched brand I go back to humbrol for RLM colours.....but despite having thinned the paint and used the better techniques the finish is awful, what am I doing wrong still? how do some on here get a good finish brush painting humbrol?

[Starfighter]

I tried Humbrol acrylics once, then spent the next hour cleaning my airbrush of the congealed mess that was left. Since then I've steered clear of acrylics and only use enamels.

I know some people swear they are the best thing since sliced bread (I'd agree with the swearing bit ! ) but I've had very few problems with enamels, so I figure it's better the devil you know !

[Grant]

I am an enamal man through and through, but recently I have been using acrylics a lot more. It is definitely a minefield - they all need different thinners, some pigments in the same range spray better than others and so on.

I have had OK results with Lifecolor, but always good results with Vallejo and recently Scale75 paints are working really well.

I guess it is just a question of how much you want to experiment and whether drying time and the aroma of white spirits are big problems for you. (It is the drying time that attracts me - modelling at my glacial pace needs all the help it can get!)

cheers

Grant

[CedB]

There's a good video on airbrushing paints here from Paul Budzik explaining that different paints and different colours need different thinners, pressures etc etc.

Paul's videos are a great source of tips IMHO and great for newbies like me.

Edit: There's lots of other tips in the tips forum for paints and airbrushing. Have a search around especially for RobVulcan's tips - he's great at brushing and his flow improver tip changed my results!

[Greenshirt]

You are using a hairy stick, right?

1) high quality brush. Don't save a quid and get poor ones. Use a wide brush for large areas. In 1/72 single engine planes, that's a 1/4 inch brush. For 4 engine bombers I use a 1/2 inch flat. I use a dropper to transfer paint to a mixing cup (old milk lid).

2) multiple thin coats, not 1 or 2 thick ones.

3) I use an old milk lid, put a tiny drop of washing up soap (fairy liquid) in the cup with some water. Then dip my brush in that, touch to the side to get some of the liquid out, then dip in the paint pot. Then I wipe to have the right amount of paint (no drips) and then paint the model.

You can experiment with self leveling liquids like Kleer, using it sparingly to thin the paint. Key word is experiment.

At the end of the day painting with a hairy stick is mostly technique, no set formula and only you can figure out what works for you.

Tim

Edited March 13, 2015 by Greenshirt