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Shading/panel lines with a wash, not confident of it working - would appreciate some advice


Raven Morpheus

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Hey guys

I'm getting to the stage in my Klingon Bird of Prey build where I need to start thinking about washing it with ink to get general weathering (not that I really know anything about weathering!), panel lines and other shading done.

The procedure I've got in my head is this -

1. Seal paintwork with Future (Klear).

2. Get large brush (#6 Italeri in my case, although I might have to buy a new one as mine has been used for Mr Surfacer 1000) and liberally paint Citadel Agrax Earthshade ink wash all over the model allowing it to run into the recesses.

However I'm not confident of that working as intended.

I'm used to washing figures (mostly faces or metallic areas (mostly gold)) to add shading, and I had a go at doing panel lines on a 1/48 UH-1D (which turned out so so as the ink was drying too much as I applied it), but I've never really washed a whole large model and I'm kind of concerned that I'll get a horrible effect on the panels as well as getting the ink where I want it in the recesses and have to do a lot of touching up over the ink or use some method of wiping it off.

So, does anyone have any experience in ink washing entire large models with large surface areas?

Any tips would be greatly appreciated because the ink wash is what will make or break my Klingon Bird of Prey build.

Thanks in advance.

Edited by Raven Morpheus
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Hi,

you might want to take a look at http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234970150-which-gloss-acrylic-varnish-gives-adequate-sheen-for-oilpaint-washes-and-dries-quickest/

as the advice I will hopefully receive there will be of use to you.

As long as the gloss varnish is glossy enough to allow the wash to seek out the nooks and crannies and not want to creep out across the surfaces you will be ok.

getting a suitable 3/4 gloss or more surface can be tricky, it needs to land on the model wet and blend with last pass, but not run.

I believe in Winsor and Newton Professional oil paint, pigment so fine it looks like ink. Having said that I recall one where I could see particles. Actual Ink as such is designed to adhere to anything and I personally wouldnt want to consider it, but experiment first on a scrap item.

I only ever sprayed out Klear once and onto bare plastic model and it didnt give me a perfect gloss coat, maybe it needs a matt finish to go onto ?

if you use watercolour paints then at least you can wash it off again. Do they have visible pigment granules ? Others could advise here. Do they run along the edges and panel lines like oil paint, again test first or lets see what others say.

MiG washes, designed to work as we wish.

Merlin

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I personally like to start with a gloss coat of either Klear (brushed on), or Alclad Aqua Gloss sprayed on. I then use Flory Model Washes (black, dark dirt and light dirt). They are clay based and can be washed off from a gloss surface. I use a cotton bud to remove the excess wash - lightly moistened. You can seal it by using a matt or satin varnish but make sure you only mist the first coat so that the dried wash is not disturbed. Otherwise it can go blotchy if you are too heavy handed with the final coat of varnish.

Hope this helps.

Tom

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