steelpillow Posted October 24, 2014 Share Posted October 24, 2014 I have printed some decals and now need to varnish them before cutting out and applying. Printed using Mr. Decal paper and Epson colour-fast inks. When in place, the model will be brush-coated with Winsor & Newton Galeria. Last time I had a problem with the varnish "spotting" in little blobs rather than settling down smooth. I am assuming that this was because the paper is porous, so the solvent gets sucked down before the splatted droplets can merge. It's especially noticeable when you have a glossy final finish. Has anybody had better results with some other brand of spray can? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Brown Posted October 24, 2014 Share Posted October 24, 2014 Have you tried Microscale Liquid Decal Film? You brush it on with a wide, soft brush. works for me when using laser decal paper. Rick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Knight Posted October 24, 2014 Share Posted October 24, 2014 I prefer a rattle can as in the past I found brushing anything on smudged the ink. I've used Humbrol acrylic matt varnish and car lacquer spray. I mist one coat on, let that set/flash off, then do a second heavier coat, put on at 90 degrees to the first. Works for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul J Posted October 24, 2014 Share Posted October 24, 2014 Halfords clear lacquer! Same brand as thier primers we all use. I have used it succesfully on laser printed decals. The likes of CanMilair or other home made decals. Even rescued old ones! Worth practiising with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viscount806x Posted October 24, 2014 Share Posted October 24, 2014 Halfords clear lacquer! Same brand as thier primers we all use. I have used it succesfully on laser printed decals. The likes of CanMilair or other home made decals. Even rescued old ones! Worth practiising with. Me too, and I've tried the otherstuff mentioned with mixed results. The car lacquer beats them all hands down, on inkjet decals anyway, probably because the varnish is dry before any image deterioration can happen. The only thing you have to watch is building it up too thickly. Nige B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingpiggy Posted November 2, 2014 Share Posted November 2, 2014 Just discovered Halfords, without the benefit of using the others mentioned it has worked on inkjet printed decals for me and has rescued old decals too. Just follow Black Knights Tip and spray 12-18 inches away to prevent " pooling" Cheers Piggy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpha Delta 210 Posted November 2, 2014 Share Posted November 2, 2014 Another vote for Halfords Clear Lacquer from me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steelpillow Posted November 22, 2014 Author Share Posted November 22, 2014 Tried Halford's clear lacquer on a couple of test pieces. First time I was a wuss and it didn't cover properly, came out spotty. Second time I went gung-ho and it came out with a slight meniscus (curl down at the edges due to its thickness) but dried brilliant. On the model I tried in between but it's still a bit spotty, no better than any other brand. If I go gung-ho, experience tells me it will run and create little ridges and blobs at the bottom. Is there a secret to this stuff? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Noble Posted November 22, 2014 Share Posted November 22, 2014 The Microscale Liquid Decal Film, although brushed, will not smudge any ink, even from an inkjet printer. I've used it on all of my home made decals and it works every time. It dries in a matter of seconds and can be re-coated shortly after. It was designed purely for rejuvenating old cracked decals or for sealing new ones. You can use it with confidence. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan1302 Posted November 22, 2014 Share Posted November 22, 2014 Tried Halford's clear lacquer on a couple of test pieces. First time I was a wuss and it didn't cover properly, came out spotty. Second time I went gung-ho and it came out with a slight meniscus (curl down at the edges due to its thickness) but dried brilliant. On the model I tried in between but it's still a bit spotty, no better than any other brand. If I go gung-ho, experience tells me it will run and create little ridges and blobs at the bottom. Is there a secret to this stuff? Yes, don't be a wuss and don't be gung ho! Give it a few coats - think I did 3 last time when I did some decals. Thinner layers are better than trying to get it all done in a oneer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oggy4624 Posted November 23, 2014 Share Posted November 23, 2014 If you can get hold of games workshop's purity seal, pre heat to 20c by putting the can in water and shake really well. I have tried halfords but found the nozzle sprayed too heavy a coat, the GW nozzle is finer and gives a more even spray. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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