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1/72 Vulcan (and V-force in general) aftermarket questions


Procopius

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Recently, I was overtaken by a fit of madness from whose grasp there was no escape. By this I mean I bought an Airfix Vulcan. And why not? Now I have the whole V-Force in my basement, unbuilt, and more carefully hidden from my wife than the actual nuclear deterrent ever was from the Russians (because if They didn't know about it, They couldn't be scared of it).

So this kit is old, and there's been a lot of correction sets put out for it. I already purchased the Fundekal Vulcan sheet for it. I'm eyeing the Wolfpack resin intakes and their correction set, which appears to include a canopy mask, and a new butt for the mighty V-bomber. Do the Wolfpack intakes fit well, or is the main reason for purchasing them merely to avoid unsightly intake seams? Which of the several types of jet pipes do the ones in the correction/detail set represent? Would I be better served if I were also to get the Freightdog jet pipes? I'm thinking I'll make a white-painted aircraft, because I'm not sure I'm up to masking something that big (blu-tack sausages and tape have always gone horribly awry for me).

Follow-up. The Airfix Valiant. Alley Cat put out a number of sets for this kit; which are arguably the most essential?

Many thanks for your replies, I'm in new territory for me here.

EDIT: Also, do either of these kits need metal landing gear replacements?

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I'm still waiting for someone to do a set of decent Olympus 301 series pipes for it. There are at least two sets of 200 series available, but no 300 series at all.

So are both Freightdog and Wolfpack's pipes Series 200s? These are more appropriate for earlier Vulcans, correct?

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If you are going to get the Alley Cat bits for the Valiant be quick as Ali is stopping his business, and yes they are very nice if you want to a complete Valiant.

Robert

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Wolfpack intakes fit well. They are a one piece copy of the Airfix parts and save you lots of filling and sanding. They also have correct engine fronts. The Freightdog tailpipes are essential as the kit mouldings are dire. Old kits (I assume you mean an early release) have decent plastic, I see no reason to use metal gear. Having said that, I have not got to that stage yet. You will benefit from some plastic card where the intakes meet the fuselage, just to back the filler, as there is see through across the fus. Extra bracing with sprue across the bomb bay to help support the doors, and a few tabs to reinforce the fus. join a la vacforms.

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So are both Freightdog and Wolfpack's pipes Series 200s? These are more appropriate for earlier Vulcans, correct?

Yes they are. No one has ever done any 300 series pipes. The ones in the kit look like concrete sewer pipes.

There were -200 and -300 powered Vulcans interspersed throughout the production run (see our instruction sheet for details). It's not an early vs. late thing.

There is absolutely no need for metal landing gear on an Airfix Vulcan just for the sake of 'strength'. I've built three of them in the past 30+ years and never had one (or seen one) collapse under its own mass.

Edited by Jennings Heilig
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Very good topic. I did a bit of research on the aftermarket stuff available for the Airfix Vulcan and already posted it in "What did you last purchased". But as it makes a lot more sense here I will repeat what I know of:

Decals were/are available from:

Fündekals (white and camo - very comprehensive), Frightdog (all camo, some with white undersides and one with the underside in desert colours: 72-001 & one set for anti flash white 72-006), AirDecal (all camouflaged #7250) and Wolfpack (WD72001)

Regarding detail sets:

Wolfpack does:

- Seamless intake sets (see above)

- Vulcan update set (I thought this brings the Airfix Vulcan to the latest version but I might well be completely wrong - though I do not know why they replace the tail)

- Wheel bay set (looks a lot better than what the kit seems to supply - but maybe depends on personal taste if you want to spend money on something which is usually hidden unless you dogfight your Vulcan through the living room)

Frightdog does (all resin):

- 201 tail pipes

- 202 tail pipes

- Skybolt conversion

Flightpath UK (http://www.djparkins.com) does (quoted from David J. Parkins web page):

- B.1/1A conversion set:

Up-graded version of our earlier set with new larger fret, now including cockpit panels & vortex generators, plus new cast front u/c leg [as well as main ones], both upper & lower air brakes, with wing leading edges and tail cone now in injection resin.

- B.2 detail set:

Up-graded version of our earlier set with new larger fret, now including cockpit panels & both upper & lower air brakes, plus all the earlier items, and resin cast Series 200 tail pipes.

- Tanker conversion:

Our B2 set, plus a fully-detailed fold up HDU unit

White ensign does (all etched):

- Interior set (full cockpit including all stations - but you will have to make a cut-away model or keep the canopy removable to see anything of this on the finished model)

- Exterior set

- Bomb bay set

Mastercasters do a set of weighted wheels

Heritage Aviation and SAC do white metal u/c sets - SAC mostly recasts kit parts so it is not likely that they show more detail than the kits parts. Dunno about the Heritage set.

I probably missed some sets.

I must say i have not seen one of the sets above in person and the same applies to my Vulcan kit... I hope to see it tonight when I get home - not that I misplaced it but it was still in the mail when I left ;-)

Rene

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The freight dog 202 exhausts are the best ones out there, They are also very accurate and have the down and out kick out of the outer exhausts, Most Vulcan B2s had 202s, Few were converted to 301s, and many more B2s had the 301s,

The airfix kit exhausts are not accurate for 301s but not too bad. if you squint.

The B1s had even smaller Exhausts and the Flight path ones are ok but not accurate for any vulcan really.

With the decals watch out for the smaller nose roundels, They should be 54" but some offer them as 48" which are a little too small and make your Vulcan look a bit fat, If you want D type decals The fantasy Print shop ones are worth using in conjunction with the other decals you might use.

The wolfpack intakes are great but on mine I needed to place them forward of the location pins to fit as if they were sat on the pins of the kit they were back to far by 1 mm, However my last kit was unbelievably badly molded compared to my others. The best thing is they come with 202 engine faces rather than the kits 301s which are quite accurate too.

You need to move the port hole windows 4mm to the right and up, After that it depends what airframe and era your modelling, There were many many little variations between vulcans, None were exactly the same. Photos are your friend here.

Which one do you want to model and when.

Good look with it, Look forward to seeing it

cheers Rob ;)

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TwoMikes were somehow related to TwoBobs IIRC. But they are located in Arizona while TwoBobs is in Texas. TwoMikes webpage (http://www.twomikesresin.com/) is down but they have a Facebook page which still seems active. But their stuff was always quite hard to get.

Scalemates give a good overview on aftermarket items with some more decal options: http://www.scalemates.com/products/product.php?id=136735

Rene

PS My Vulcan arrived today. :yahoo: A classic box (initial release) which is a bit worn but Parts seem to be in very good shape - decals look way better than expected too (XL321 will be my choice).

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When you get around to the Valiant I have a spare set of seamless Alicat intakes I would be prepared to sell if you can't find them commercially.

Built a Vulcan , only resin used was the Frieghtdog exhausts. Used thrift and milliput to make the intakes seamless.

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When you get around to the Valiant I have a spare set of seamless Alicat intakes I would be prepared to sell if you can't find them commercially.

Built a Vulcan , only resin used was the Frieghtdog exhausts. Used thrift and milliput to make the intakes seamless.

Thrift is an excellent modelling material! I wish I could find some here in the States. :)

Cheers,

Bill

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Not really - but now I know what "thrift" and what "Armeria Maritima" is. Great thing this Britmodelller - it teaches you so many things. Like not having a drink and write down stuff at the same time.

Back to Vulcan: When rescribing the Airfix kit - are the raised panel lines correct? I mean can I simply (more or less) rescribe them???

Rene

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Not really - but now I know what "thrift" and what "Armeria Maritima" is. Great thing this Britmodelller - it teaches you so many things. Like not having a drink and write down stuff at the same time.

Back to Vulcan: When rescribing the Airfix kit - are the raised panel lines correct? I mean can I simply (more or less) rescribe them???

Rene

I was probably just going to sand most of them clean off. (I'm very lazy, and have shaky hands.)

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I was probably just going to sand most of them clean off. (I'm very lazy, and have shaky hands.)

Drink more of whatever we had in that pub in Chicago. It will make your hands much more steady. :)

Cheers,

Bill

PS. If the model has raised panel lines, are we really re-scribing it? I think we're just scribing it.

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PS. If the model has raised panel lines, are we really re-scribing it? I think we're just scribing it.

Good point.

Scribing or rescribing is one of those works which I usually find a tad boring. But it is one of the few things you can do without your man cave. Simply pack the parts and the few tools and take it with you on a trip and get it done without stealing presious modeling time at home... I already did the stabilizer and the wings (the "flat" parts are always easiest and so they are finished rather quickly) this weekend on my Vulcan. Back at home I resumed work on my Lightning and have the Vulcan back in the box till next time.

Rene

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Oh, Procopius! What a well-timed question! I'm about to start an Airfix Vulcan too so all of this is awfully relevant. I've got the Wolfpack intakes and undercarriage bays, Mastercasters wheels, Airdecal and Wolfpack sheets (anyone mentioned the latter?) and will be doing a 101 squadron aircraft in the late 1970s

A couple of thoughts on the aftermarket stuff I've got:

The Wolfpack undercarriage bays look excellent and are dripping with detail. They also include replacement bay doors.

The Mastercasters wheels aren't very good-to be honest the kit efforts are much more like the real thing, and don't really need replacing! I probably will not even bother with the replacements.

The Airdecal sheet to me is a bit dodgy. The colours of the national markings look much too dark to my eyes, and I'm convinced the squadron badges are way too big (35 and 101 badges in particular are huge!). The Fundekals look a far better bet. The Wolfpack sheet (covers XH558, XJ824 at Duxford, XL445 as a tanker) is also OK.

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I've begun scribing mine (and simply sanding off most of the raised lines underneath, out of sheer laziness and because all the photos I've seen show a relatively smooth underbelly).

10734175_877130032311810_580862540627100

I'm thinking of doing a 50 Squadron B.2 off the Fundekal sheet, because I love their motto (many of my decal option choices over the years are influenced by how good the squadron motto is), although I'm not sure how I feel about sanding off the fin RWR. Also still live in fear of trying a camo scheme. THERE'S a subject for pre-made masks.

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