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Tank tracks


fallmonk

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What make and model do these tracks belong to. I had a set of clip together tracks for an AFV Club Centurion but just couldnt get on with them, went to metal tracks instead

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The way I do individual track links is like this :

Take a length of standard decorators masking tape & plane on the work surface sticky side up. Secure this with small lengths of the same tape perpendicular to the 1st piece.

If you use something like Tamiya Extra-Thin Cement, build up the track links piece by piece. The masking tape will hold them in place.

Once you have a decent sized run built, add the cement & leave for 5-10 minutes. The cement will begin to cure, but not harden completely.

Release the masking tape & you can then drape the track length over the tank wheels, adding any sag as desired.

Wait for the cement to cure fully & remove the masking tape - job done!

If you use something other than Tamiya Extra Thin (Revell Contacta for instance) you can use this technique & glue each link as you go.

I hope this helps

Patrick

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  • 3 months later...

Patrick,

Thank you for the tip. I will give it a go when I manage to get another delivery of patience.

Rant mode on<

I have to ask though who in hell thought these godforsaken things were a good idea in plastic!

Yes I get the fact that some like to go the extra mile for realism. Well do it with the metal aftermarket sets if that is what floats your boat.

I have yet another build stalled because of these poxy pieces of plastic. I happen to need a Masterbox Panzer 1 ammo wagon for a diorama I am putting together. No rubber band tracks just lots of delicate, pingy bloody individual links.

Funnily enough I was happy enough with, what are deridingly called, rubber band tracks. Have managed some realistic finishes on them as well.

The last time I had to use individual links I did not come back to armour modelling for about 9 months after the frustration they caused.

>Rant mode off.

and breathe.............................Wheres my stash of aircraft kits...............

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I use them a lot and dont find them to be much of a problem...cleaning up the injection pin marks and flash is the worst part.

I use a simple jig made from an old piece of MDF with two strips of 1/4" thick wood screwed to it parallel to each. One piece is fixed, the other is on slotted holes. I set the gap between them to match the width of the tracks guide tongues and place individual links into the groove and then snap together and glue with liquid cement. I make runs about 3" long, and while the glue sets place a weight onto the outer face of the track. The runs around the sprocket/idler are done the same but I wrap the length around the sprocket/idler while the glue is still soft then lock the shape with CA.

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I use them a lot and dont find them to be much of a problem...cleaning up the injection pin marks and flash is the worst part.

I use a simple jig made from an old piece of MDF with two strips of 1/4" thick wood screwed to it parallel to each. One piece is fixed, the other is on slotted holes. I set the gap between them to match the width of the tracks guide tongues and place individual links into the groove and then snap together and glue with liquid cement. I make runs about 3" long, and while the glue sets place a weight onto the outer face of the track. The runs around the sprocket/idler are done the same but I wrap the length around the sprocket/idler while the glue is still soft then lock the shape with CA.

Thanks Dave.

To sooth my frayed nerves I shall try to knockup a jig like this tomorrow. are there any measurements you can share for the distance between slotted holes?

A phot of the jig would be good if I can ask for some more of your time. Picture paints a thousand words and all that :-)

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Heres a pic of the jig. Its nothing fancy, I knock up jigs from whatever I can find as I need them and then keep them in case they will come in handy. This one started life about ten years ago as a wheel alignment jig for my scratchbuilt Saladin, hence the width of the MDF...the pencil line is where the second piece of wood was in that mode. The MDF is from an old stereo enclosure, the wood from a trellis in our garden!

The idea to adapt it to track work came with my first attempt at individual link assembly. It seemed to work for me so I just keep using it!

The piece of wood with the three countersunk screws is fixed, the piece with the two raised head screws has about 1/4" movement - the slots are hidden by the washers.

After a light application of cement I lay a six inch steel rule across the outer face of the tracks and stand a small weight - usually a cement bottle - on it till the cement has set, then remove the track from the jig and give it some CA to firmly lock it together.

Not very high tech, and not very expensive, but for me it makes track assembly pretty simple.

vRK6pv2.jpg

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Dave,

Many thanks for taking the time to post this.

A fine example of the K.I.S.S. principal :-)

Signing off and heading to the shed..............................

Happy to help...just hope it works as well for you as it does for me. Let us know how you get on.

Yes, I am a firm advocate of K.I.S.S!

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