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PanAm Vertol 107


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My Ju-52 project will need more time to figure out what is best way to build planned aircraft. So I started to other project.

My idea is build this plane,that is probably only one Vertol being in PanAm livery.

panamhelicopter-vi.jpg

I only have old Airfix kit in my hands and it's not necessarily best kit in the world. My intention is improve some basic building skills in this project so I think it's good for that.

Major issues (at least) in kit are:

-Fuselage is 4mm too short, Correcting this can be done adding 2mm between first and second window and same thing between 3rd and 4th.

-Wing span in small pontoons is too short, 3mm is missing. And length should be 39mm.

-I think something is wrong in back engine bay. I need to figure out what

-Cockpit is very basic, so this area needs some scratch building. In my kit cockpit window is not that good and maybe I need to try to do new vacuform one.

-New windows in cabin are needed. Size of windows are: 19x17 inches. So that will make 6mm x 7mm in 1/72.

-Raised panel lines, so I can practice making new ones.

-Total absence of interior in cabin area, this is bit strange because in original kit is possibility to open ramp.

-Fit of parts is poor.

Decals are available from this company: http://www.classic-plane-mrr.de/index_e.html

So this will be very much be a old school build. Make from poor kit a average model :mental:

Work was stated yesterday evening and length issue is sorted out and left side will need lot of sanding. I'm trying figure out positions of cabin windows to lower one these are not in final place.

Vertol002-vi.jpg

Most of these "PanAm" Vertols were operated by New York Airways and more information about that operation from internet.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/New_York_Airways

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great idea for a model here - really looking forward to seeing her finished - wasn't the closing frames of one of the very old Clint Eastwood films based on this? Maybe the original Dirty Harry movie seen taking off from the top of a NY skyscraper??

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I love the old (OMG it's very old) Airfix Vertol, built a few in my time

I agree with you the front canopy/window section is best replaced with a home moulded one

I fill the kit canopy with Milliput and when cured pull mould a nicer thinner one

Then go to town on detailing, it doesnt take much to make it look better even if you don't fully hyperdetail it

This is one I will follow with pleasure

b

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Small progress here rough window openings done. Idea is make clear parts little bit larger than actual window then there is room to make smooth seams. Next job is lot of filling and sanding. Some new windows are only partly fitting with the old ones so some extra work there.

Vertol002-vi.jpg

Some idea what should be in cockpit

KawasakiVertol107II1962M-vi.jpg

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Watching with interest. Built this kit as a kid and loved it.

Looking good so far.

Have you considered "Micro Kristal Klear" for the side windows?

I tend to use it for small windows. Works pretty well and is dead easy to use and correct any mistakes.

Good luck,

Rick.

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Thanks for all encouraging words.

Rick: I will try Kristal Klear, I was thinking vacuforming, but I think your proposal is better.

Hi Vesa, have you considered inserting a strip of clear styren for the windows that way you will not be compromised by the openings in the fuselage. Just cut masks once you have the spacing and window size correct.

Colin

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Very interesting! Another thing that needs correction is the part behind the exhausts (the rear part of the whole aircraft). Airfix original 107 -11 had the correct shape for this version, but the moulds were modified in the 70s when it was changed into this CH-46 version. I have pictures of this one if you are interested. Anyway, I will follow this with great interest!

Edited by Bjorn
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Wow, this is an interesting project. You've made a great start, I look forward to progress being made.

I've had a thought on those side windows. There are windows 8 per side, each one has 4 edges to fill and smooth, so 8 x 4 = 32 seams to make good. Having just built the BPK CRJ-100 they had a great idea for doing the windows as 1 long strip, so only 4 seams to smooth.

Might be worth trying something similar?

Anyway, great job you have done so far!

Cheers

John

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Masking a clear strip for windows is not a good idea. That means the windows are then flush which is wrong as in reality especially in older types they are indented. This also spoils the BPK kits as it is obvious in real life. There seems to be a belief that windows are flush...wrong, they are not.

Model making is supposed to be about accuracy and I hate the way models are moving away from proper cut out glazed windows

This conversion is coming along nicely, one of the more unusual subjects we don't often seen made up in it's military form.

Edited by garryrussell
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Hi Garry,

Actually, modeling is pretty much about what each modeler wants out of it, and things like accuracy are not something that many modelers care very much about. I say this with some reluctance because I also do a lot of detailing and accurizing, for the same reasons you do. However, I have come to realize that what I do is not what most modelers do; and that is OK with me because their models are not my models.

In the meantime, I would like to know by how much the windows are indented on real airliners? I imagine it varies from type to type, so I would like to know more about the range of the indentation and perhaps a couple of examples by type. Can you fill us in on the actual dimensions?

Thanks in advance, Jim

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great idea for a model here - really looking forward to seeing her finished - wasn't the closing frames of one of the very old Clint Eastwood films based on this? Maybe the original Dirty Harry movie seen taking off from the top of a NY skyscraper??

Coogan's Bluff is the film you're thinking of.

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Rodders

If the windows aren't flush I wouldn't bother to make the tiny difference,let alone in 144th or 1/72nd. The jets I've worked on.... the seal stands proud ( only a little bit) of the skin and Perspex/Plexiglass panel line where its Squeezed by the panel when the clips/levers push out and seat the panel correctly.

I mean seat,its not a typo.

Edited by bzn20
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Hi Garry,

Actually, modeling is pretty much about what each modeler wants out of it, and things like accuracy are not something that many modelers care very much about. I say this with some reluctance because I also do a lot of detailing and accurizing, for the same reasons you do. However, I have come to realize that what I do is not what most modelers do; and that is OK with me because their models are not my models.

In the meantime, I would like to know by how much the windows are indented on real airliners? I imagine it varies from type to type, so I would like to know more about the range of the indentation and perhaps a couple of examples by type. Can you fill us in on the actual dimensions?

Thanks in advance, Jim

I agree Jim the model should be as accurate as the builder wants it. I have seen people who strive for really accurate models and build nothing then there others who take a basic kit and turn it into a masterpiece (current builds westland scout and the JP's) Modelmaking is a hobby and hobbies are to be enjoyed. Each to his / hers own

Rodders

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I got dragged away halfway thru my last post.

Your 107 windows aren't the same as a pressurised aircraft's windows though. Just one panel of Plexiglass/Perspex I looked at some pictures and they look pretty flush.I compared the reflections along the cab and windows,there isn't any marked deveation , almost negligible. See if you can get hold of a copy of Coogan's Bluff or there are kind of free places where you can stream it or so I heard,plenty of shots to help you. Looking good so far!

I watched one take off the Pan Am building from the top of the Empire State, that was in the New York Airways colours.

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COOGAN'S BLUFF is on ITV4 tonight/tomorrow 00.25AM, 01.25 ITV4 plus 1.

What were the chances of that?!!

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Masking a clear strip for windows is not a good idea. That means the windows are then flush which is wrong as in reality especially in older types they are indented. This also spoils the BPK kits as it is obvious in real life. There seems to be a belief that windows are flush...wrong, they are not.

:rofl: I'm sure the thickness of paint will replicate the perceived indentations for you especially in 1/72 or 1'144 scale.

Chris

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