lobug104 Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 first request ,the mesh for the fuel tank where did you buy it and second in one of the photos there is the corner of what looks like a ref book if it is where is that from line drawing are always useful. Thanks for the opportunity to ask. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandy Posted January 26, 2015 Author Share Posted January 26, 2015 Hi John, I bought the mesh from The Mesh Company (Warrington) Ltd on their website. I bought 2 sheets - the one I'm using for the stone guards is #22 mesh - 0.94mm aperture, 0.22mm wire diameter. It's sold as insect screen mesh. The other sheet will be used for the carb and windscreen guards and is #60 mesh - 0.32mm aperture, 0.11mm wire diameter, listed in woven wire mesh section. The reference book is unfortunately nothing more than the kit instruction book. I wish I did have line drawings and more detail pics! I have got a lot of detail info from McKenzie Guppy's Flickr album: http://www.mckenzieguppy.co.uk/flickr-photos None of the cars are Blowers, but much of the chassis, equipment, and general layout is the same! (In particular, some good shots of the pedal arrangement and front chassis). Hope this helps, ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lobug104 Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 Thank you for info. like your idea for wheel spokes attempted one as a pilot made complete fist of back rim miscounted number of spoke pairs on the hub. Contacted Airfix and obtained replacement, mark 2 attempt shortly. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianI Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 The Mesh Company site is good. Ordered the mesh online one evening (2 a4 sheets of #22 and 1 a4 sheet of #60) and it posted through my letter box 48 hours later! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpnuts Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 great work loving it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandy Posted January 27, 2015 Author Share Posted January 27, 2015 (edited) Thanks guys! I had a "Eureka" moment today! I've been trying to figure out how everything is arranged on the rear of the bulkhead, and I couldn't get it all to work - it didn't seem as though there was enough room for the oil tank and a dynamo.... Here's the pic I've been poring over all afternoon... Â You can see the orange grommet through which the fuel hoses pass, but I couldn't see where the hoses went from there. With the oil tank mounted to the left, there wasn't room for the dynamo, which is mounted on the rear wall of the bulkhead where the dynamo drive shaft passes through it (that's the piece with two circular bits on that fits in the rear of the cylinder head). Then the moment I'd been searching for....the oil tank is NOT mounted to the bulkhead! It's held in space by 3 brackets, 2 from the top part, and one from the bottom part, of the strengthening bracket fitted between the bulkhead and the scuttle - the "X" piece to the top of the side opening, and is to the right of the fuel hoses! NOW everything fits - the fuel lines run BEHIND the oil tank (to its left), I assume to the sight gauges on the dash, then to the gravity tank on the left rear of the bulkhead. If anyone has definite proof of this, or of the correct mountings if this is wrong, I'd be very happy to see it. Thanks!~ Ian Edited July 16, 2017 by limeypilot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 (edited) Excellent detective work. You'll be in the 'museum class' when you accomplish this. ...and I expect to see those nuts safety-wired too! Edited January 27, 2015 by Codger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandy Posted January 27, 2015 Author Share Posted January 27, 2015 (edited) Thanks, Codger.... no-one's ever told me to wire my nuts before.... What wire would you recommend? I have some .002" stainless that I use for rigging my biplanes, but I it's not soft enough to wrap like that. While we're on the subject, what size and type of wire would you recommend for the copper oil lines and armoured cables such as the tach drive and Magneto and cooling fan power leads? (all shown in the pic above). Also, are there any aftermarket piano-type hinges available in this size for the bonnet (hood) panels? Ian Edited January 27, 2015 by limeypilot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 (edited) Thanks, Codger.... no-one's ever told me to wire my nuts before.... What wire would you recommend? I have some .002" stainless that I use for rigging my biplanes, but I it's not soft enough to wrap like that. While we're on the subject, what size and type of wire would you recommend for the copper oil lines and armoured cables such as the tach drive and Magneto and cooling fan power leads? (all shown in the pic above). Also, are there any aftermarket piano-type hinges available in this size for the bonnet (hood) panels? Ian How else you gonna hang on to them?? Real safety wire is . 032 and .041. Your .002 stainless is perfect. Just anneal it with heat and it should twist fine. Rule of thumb(s) for a 3/8" dia. line (possible vac hose) or hose your scale size is .031. For 1/2" , (usually a fuel line) .041. For plug wires, ~ .023 would be right. Get a dial caliper (your best friend for detail work), eyeball your reference and select from wound guitar wire, computer / telephone insulated wire - anything in easy reach. I have a whole box full of stripped and insulated stuff collected for years. Lamp cord, fans - you get the idea. Use your eye, snip a piece and hold in place on the engine. If it looks right, it is. Some insulations are that perfect semi black as is. For wire, paint your finish on after a wipe with lacquer thinner. You could even stretch sprue if you're good at it. Brass and ally rod gives you nice rigid long linkages and braces. That's how I did the Rolls and believe me, those rod linkages are as small as .019 in some places. Don't forget to float a little 'patina' around the fittings and clamps. Makes the lines pop. Maybe consult 'The Sultan of Large Scale' Roy for piano hinges. I'm a hinge dummy and he's yer expoit. P. S. Also consult Mr. Roy about guitar strings; he's a professional. P.P.S.! Forgot to mention; solder is also your friend! Go to Radio Shack get a range of diameters as above. Easy to bend, wipe with thinner and paint or leave bare - it all looks great. just do your math. Senility is a terrible thing... Edited January 27, 2015 by Codger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roymattblack Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 Ditto all what Mr C said - dunno about the Sultan bit though. (Although Sultans of Swing is my 'opener' when I gig...) All kinds of piano hinges are available on Ebay. Just search 'dolls house hinge'. Equally, making your own is pretty simple if the hinge is hidden. A cheapo set of guitar strings is about £3.50 and the 'wound' strings are very useful as braided/armoured wires. Looking astounding so far though. Roy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandy Posted January 27, 2015 Author Share Posted January 27, 2015 Thanks Gents, it took a while searching but I finally found hinges small enough at Phoenix Model Developments in Hemel Hempstead. They're 4.5mm (about 3/16") wide when open so they'll be perfect! Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandy Posted January 27, 2015 Author Share Posted January 27, 2015 (edited) Since I've been snowed in all day and it's still blowing hard outside, I got a bit more done today.  I actually managed to correct the hole I'd drilled in the bulkhead by lining it with 3/8 tube and redrilling. The original was close enough that the thickness of the tube was enough to enable me to move it over about 1mm. It is now in the correct place, central on the bulkhead! I also added another hole for the fuel lines, which will be covered by a "metal" plate, and mountings for the fuel tank. I have no idea if these are correct, but it had to be supported by something so I added a flange around its edge, and a strap at the rear which will attach to the scuttle.      The radiator also got some attention. The attachment pins for the front were shortened by 2mm to move it back and leave room for a proper wire mesh grille over the front, which has been added, and the bottom edge has been trimmed with one piece of .015" card, cut and trimmed to shape. I think it's a big improvement!          Ian  Edited July 16, 2017 by limeypilot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianI Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 Looks great with the proper mesh on the radiator grille! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lordairgtar Posted January 29, 2015 Share Posted January 29, 2015 This is looking great. I have the MPC boxed kit (Airfix actually) and I want to undertake this build. I think the wheel lacing method you used will work with a lot of different cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandy Posted January 30, 2015 Author Share Posted January 30, 2015 (edited) I was going to (finally) get another coat of paint on the chassis and bulkhead today, (actually I was going to do it yesterday!) but the snowstorm put paid to anything yesterday, and today I noticed another major flaw with the kit - there is a chassis member missing! Actually there could be 2 missing, but the one at the rear, right under the rear of the body, just in front of the fuel tank, is visible, the other isn't. So, out came the plastic stock and the offending member was added... Â While that was drying, I decided to add the missing part of the gearbox (the shaft holding the gear lever itself) - I messed that up by adding the final piece too soon, so no pic of that just yet! Maybe I'll get some paint on tomorrow..... Ian Edited July 16, 2017 by limeypilot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandy Posted February 3, 2015 Author Share Posted February 3, 2015 (edited) Still no more paint, but I haven't been idle. I've added the shaft to the gearbox - it won't be detailed any further as it's going to be hidden between the floor and the belly pan anyway..   I've also added some copper "safety wire" to the inlet manifold nuts and the plugs on the front shaft, and done some detailing on the two small additions on the inlet manifold - I'm not sure what they are, maybe some sort of pressure release valves?  I thinned the outer rims on the inside using an old dentist's drill bit, filed down the inner core until it was narrow enough to add a small slice of plastic tube, then cut slots around the edge. I also drilled out the central shaft. I'm waiting on some more resin nuts and I'll add 2 inside each along with "safety wire" when they arrive. The final addition to the engine so far is the drive for the tachometer on the camcover nosecap and four small nuts...    Unfortunately I need to respray the chromed waterway covers before going much further, then I'll add all the dome nuts for those......  Ian  Edited July 16, 2017 by limeypilot 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob G Posted February 3, 2015 Share Posted February 3, 2015 I hesitate to ask, but are those covers chromed, nickel plated, or polished stainless/whatever. I would have thought that chrome was a bit of a stretch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted February 3, 2015 Share Posted February 3, 2015 Excellent tiny work Ian - and difficult to do in 'only' 1/12 scale. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roymattblack Posted February 3, 2015 Share Posted February 3, 2015 Looks superb. I love all the tiny little details. Roy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandy Posted February 3, 2015 Author Share Posted February 3, 2015 Thanks Gents! Rob, I'm actually not sure to be honest. But since I had to buy some Alclad Chrome for the radiator shell, I'll probably do the covers in that too. In all probability it wasn't too shiny anyway since it was a race car... Ian 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toms111s Posted February 3, 2015 Share Posted February 3, 2015 I hesitate to ask, but are those covers chromed, nickel plated, or polished stainless/whatever. I would have thought that chrome was a bit of a stretch. I only have some knowledge of the 3 litre so please don't quote me on this but it is my understanding that the shiny bits are nickel plated. And the radiator shell on the 3 is made from German Silver. Ian, I think your model is exceptional and all the extra detail and effort you have put in really bring it to life. Without these added details I think the model is quite toy like in appearance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandy Posted February 9, 2015 Author Share Posted February 9, 2015 (edited) Thanks Tom, The radiator shell is indeed German silver, so it wouldn't surprise me if the nickel plating is also correct. I decided not to respray the waterway covers, but instead I bought some Bare Metal Foil and will use that. I also got a second coat of paint on it and have rubbed that down, might get a third on it tomorrow.... Â Ian Edited July 16, 2017 by limeypilot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandy Posted February 15, 2015 Author Share Posted February 15, 2015 (edited) Since I've hunkered down for our latest blizzard - we're under a blizzard warning on Cape Cod from 7pm Sat night until 7am Sun morning - I've managed to get quite a bit done today!  The first task was another coat of green on the chassis, bulkhead and fuel tank. After that I concentrated on the engine. I decided against repainting the waterway covers, instead I bought some Bare Metal Foil. It's extremely thin, and self adhesive. It goes on very easily and shows ALL detail through it so the surface needs to be well prepared. It trims up very easily, just the weight of a scalpel with a new blade is enough, no pressure needs to be applied. I'm very happy with how that looks now. I then added all the dome nuts. These came from RB Motion and are well worth the money - about $60 for as many as I needed here! I managed to knock off and lose one of the spark plugs which is a little annoying. Luckily it's under the exhaust manifold so I'll replace it with piece of plastic rod and it shouldn't be too noticeable. Once all that was done I could start adding some of the rest of the detail parts: magnetos, pressure relief valves (?), oil filler, crankcase vent, flywheel, water pump and starter motor are now fitted. The inlet for the water pump will be added when the radiator is in place so I can get it to fit properly - I can't believe Airfix don't include it in the kit! I'll add the fan (also not in the kit!) when the engine is mounted in the chassis.      I'm hoping I will only need a clearcoat now on the paintwork, then I can start getting stuff added to the chassis!  Thanks for looking in!   Ian  Edited July 16, 2017 by limeypilot 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lordairgtar Posted February 15, 2015 Share Posted February 15, 2015 That engine is coming to life. I like the BMF use on the side cover. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kallisti Posted February 15, 2015 Share Posted February 15, 2015 Wow that looks great! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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