Brandy Posted September 9, 2014 Share Posted September 9, 2014 (edited) Well, since my 2 current builds (both 1:72 scale WWI aircraft, which is my speciality) are on hold for parts, and I don't want to "start" anything new, I've decided to finally dig out the old Airfix kit that's been in my stash for over 30 years. I did make a start on it back then, but stopped due to lack of good references (I was obviously not TOO dumb a kid!). This will be a long term build, as I intend to finish the 2 that are "in progress" before I get seriously involved in this one, but I will post updates as and when I get anything done. Since I now have a good few pics as referances and a pretty good build log to check up on from another modeller, I have made a new start on this one, and have spent the last 2 days cleaning up what I'd already done many years ago, and correcting the kit parts. I've got a fair bit done, but there are plenty more improvements needed before construction proper can begin, and that will probably wait until my Muromets is finished. Here's where I am now: The chassis: I've drilled out the front end, thinning the top and bottom parts of the chassis rails and extending the gap in the U frame further forward to where it should be... (since these pics were taken I've also removed the big doughnut that is supposed to represent the stearing rack mount). The stearing column: The bevel gear end was way too big, so I removed it, cut off the plug on the top and the bevel gear housing, thinned the housing by over 1/2, replaced the shaft with 9/32nd tube, chamfered at one end to blend into the stearing column, and reattached the other bits, blending them in with Mr Dissolved Putty. I think the lower part of the bevel housing that was cut off the original may be a little small, but it'll do. The firewall: I removed the moulded oil lines and the blank over the oil tank hole, the latter was replaced with card. The moulding for the throttle mounting was added from stock rod, glued together to get the right size, then sanded to shape. I added rod to the lower edge of the firewall where it meets the floor, then sanded it to the correct slanted profile to match the slope of the floor. 5 thou sheet has also been added to the rear of the firewall to give the correct smooth surface, and the flange around the edge. I also corrected the small lip on both upper corners which shouldn't be there. The floor: the hashed steel moulding has been removed, and the floor now needs to be narrowed slightly at the front - the sloped part is only between the firewall edges, not running right up to the bodywork. The fuel tank: a start has been made on stripping the moulded detail, wire mesh has been ordered to replace it. There are also some nuts missing on the firewall, I've ordered some and they're on their way! This is turning out to be very enjoyable! Any advice from car model builders will be welcome, it's over 25 years since I built one and it was OOB! Particular help will be needed for sources for wiring/plumbing materials, replacement resin nuts/bolts (I have some plain nuts on order but can't find castle nuts or dome nuts) and any other auto specific parts I may need (carb linkages?) all of course, in 1:12th scale..... Ian Edited May 22, 2019 by limeypilot 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob G Posted September 9, 2014 Share Posted September 9, 2014 Nice! Inspiration for me to dig mine out of the stash. And maybe the Heller 1/24 version as a practice run (I think I still have it). I'll be following along with bated breath.For nuts/bolt heads, there's Plastruct hex rod (cut slices off - PITA if you ask me) or one of the punch and die sets that are available, I have one each in hex and round. Might be worth a look. RobG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandy Posted September 10, 2014 Author Share Posted September 10, 2014 (edited) Another day spent destroying Airfix's best efforts.... I took apart the engine (so most of what I'd done 30+ years ago has now been undone!) and opened up the gap that should be between the cylinder block and the valve gear drive train. Plastic stock has been added to fill the gaps left by opening that up and will be sanded to shape tomorrow. The front part of the floor has been corrected, and the horns, carbs, and tail lights drilled out. I've also cleaned off all the detail on the fuel tank except the fuel line connections to prepare it for the mesh stone guards. This is proving to be more work than I'd anticipated, but enjoyable - it's so big! Ian Edited July 15, 2017 by limeypilot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandy Posted September 11, 2014 Author Share Posted September 11, 2014 (edited) Not too much to report today, I've spent most of it trying to fill all the ejector pin marks and sink holes - the chassis frame parts, suspension parts, and drivetrain are FULL of them! Also sanding down the major parts ready for paint. I did get the engine back together and finished the mod to the front end. I added 5 thou sheet to the front and rear of the cylinder block to represent the plates that were bolted on, and removed the moulded on pipe along both sides. I also started to modify the suspension leaf spring hangers. The rear ones are done - simply drilled and cut out the middle part to leave the two side plates. The front ones were totally wrong so I've removed them and will add scratchbuilt parts when I come to fit the suspension. A quick dry-fit of the modified floor and firewall showed all ok there: The current state of the engine: Rear spring hangers, before and after: and the fuel tank ready for detailing: Thanks for looking in! Ian Edited July 15, 2017 by limeypilot 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob G Posted September 12, 2014 Share Posted September 12, 2014 I had a need to replace some chain mail on a figure a little while ago (no, you can't see her, she's still not finished), and I found that bridal tulle was a dead ringer for what had been used originally. Available in different mesh sizes and shapes, and as cheap as a really cheap thing. I cut it to approximate shape, tacked one edge with super glue, stretched to fit, tacking as I went, then basically flooded the whole thing with super glue to fix it in place. Looks OK to me, and when (if???) I ever get around to doing my big BBB, I might use the same bit of material (a metre of it was $1.50 or some such silliness, so I have heaps to spare.) RobG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toms111s Posted September 12, 2014 Share Posted September 12, 2014 I will be watching this with interest. I built one of these a while back but the chassis ended up twisted leaving one of the front wheels off the ground. Maybe when I've had a bit more practice I will get another. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Squarehead Posted September 12, 2014 Share Posted September 12, 2014 I've always fancied this kit, not enough to spend £100 on one though! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandy Posted September 13, 2014 Author Share Posted September 13, 2014 How much??? This is definitely NOT a 100 quid kit! The quality is nowhere near good enough! Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smackers Posted September 13, 2014 Share Posted September 13, 2014 Yes it is a 100 quid kit, at least rrp. It can be got for around 80 which i think is still too much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandy Posted September 14, 2014 Author Share Posted September 14, 2014 I meant value wise, not actual price. I certainly wouldn't pay even half that for what you going to get. I got mine as a present in the mid 70's, Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
It's a disease Posted September 15, 2014 Share Posted September 15, 2014 Hey Limey, hiroboy.com uk based mainly car model company, I've used these guys and they provide a good service, if you can't find what you are looking for it probably doesn't exist! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted September 15, 2014 Share Posted September 15, 2014 (edited) This looks fantastic... great progress. One little word of caution -- when it's built it's quite heavy. Those suspension hangars look the prototypical business, but I'd be nervous about whether there's enough plastic left to take the weight... Good luck! bestest, M. Edited September 15, 2014 by cmatthewbacon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roymattblack Posted September 15, 2014 Share Posted September 15, 2014 (edited) Why not have a go at covering the body in real fabric, or even thin leather? That's what I did on mine some years ago. It makes a fair bit of difference. I'm often tempted to make some 'proper' wire wheels for it...... Roy. Edited September 15, 2014 by roymattblack 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandy Posted September 16, 2014 Author Share Posted September 16, 2014 Very nice! That's one of the best I've seen of this kit. I do plan on rewiring the wheels, not sure how just yet....... Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandy Posted September 16, 2014 Author Share Posted September 16, 2014 (edited) I've made a little more progress, waiting on my next delivery of resin nuts from Ted's Modeling Marketplace..... (the guy in my local hobby shop didn't even flinch when I asked him if he had resin nuts......) 8) The blobs representing the cylinder block nuts and valve drive train plugs have been removed and replaced, and I've added the sump bolts, but may replace them with slightly smaller ones. I also clipped off the 6 inlet manifold bolts at each end of the manifold which were far too long - they should be flush with the manifold itself. The nuts will be replaced when my next order arrives. The kit mounting for the water pump is also wrong - it's too high and sits where the fan bracket should be, so I've added a new one based on what I can figure out from pics - it may not be 100% accurate but at least it's in the right place. That also left me free to add the fan base and bracket and I've started to fabricate a fan assembly. (pic to follow on that one). I'm still not sure about the shape and size of the sump, but without definite evidence of this car, it will stay as it is. Airfix couldn't be THAT far off, so I'm assuming that this early race car was different from later road versions. Ian Edited July 15, 2017 by limeypilot 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhaselden Posted September 30, 2014 Share Posted September 30, 2014 Any progress on this build? I'm avidly watching and learning much from your photos! I have this kit in my stash and it's a big box so I may need to do it sooner rather than later to make room for more kits...but don't tell the missus! If it's not a personal question, where do you get your nuts (and bolts) for this kit? Many thanks,Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Squarehead Posted September 30, 2014 Share Posted September 30, 2014 Wow.....Those are some tidy little details, took me a while to spot 'em in the pics, presumably because they look like they were meant to be there! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandy Posted October 22, 2014 Author Share Posted October 22, 2014 (edited) Hi all, A little more done on this one, although my main problem seems to be finding a problem, referencing pics to find out what should be there, then noticing something else and getting sidetracked! I need to concentrate on fixing the problem I started with, and the moving on to the new one later....somehow I don't think that will happen! I painted the firewall with Model Masters buffing Aluminium, then decided the inner part, which will be body colour, was too bad to paint (previous spraying with primer had "spat" and I couldn't get in too smooth it all out). So I removed the detail I'd added and cut a piece of 5thou card to drop in. The details were then replaced. I also corrected the central bracket mounting on the top edge which is a cutout on the kit and should be a raised part of the structure, and the bolt locations for the plating. The side ones were ok, but there was one missing on each upper corner (where the indents had been) and the top ones weren't spaced correctly. These have all been drilled ready for the bolts to be added when the painting's finished. The engine now has some paint (again buffing aluminium), and the cylinder block and nuts/bolts/plugs have been painted. I have some .5mm aluminium dome nuts for the side and end plates which will be added after the painting is finished. The other recent work has been on the fuel tank. I've added the straps on each side which will hold the wire mesh side pieces, and made up the mounting brackets from stock rod/strip with pins added from brass rod to ensure a correct fit to the chassis. I need to find a good match for the BRG, my first try is going to be Tamiya Imperial Japanese Army Green. It doesn't have to be exact as the colour varied a little from car to car, but it needs to be a very deep green so that colour might work..... Mark - the nuts and bolts are resin items from Ted's Modelling Marketplace, with the exception of the domed (acorn for US readers) nuts which are aluminium items from RB Motion. Thanks for looking in! Ian Edited July 15, 2017 by limeypilot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted October 22, 2014 Share Posted October 22, 2014 (edited) Very nice scratchbuilding. For paint, have a look at Model Master British Green Metallic enamel. The metallic is very fine and uniform and the more colour coats the deeper the green gets. It's one of my favorites: EDIT: I brush painted the fabric portions of the Bentley body and top cover with flat craft acrylic greens. Edited October 22, 2014 by Codger 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roymattblack Posted October 23, 2014 Share Posted October 23, 2014 The old Bentleys were never metallic - lovely colour though. The nearest you'll get to the Bentley colour is Halfords Brooklands green, although the original cars were never identical anyway as the paints were mixed 'by eye'. A friend of mine helped restore one at Beaulieu and apparently after spending a small fortune on getting paint matched and mixed, they found the Halfords colour almost indistinguishable so used it for painting small fittings etc. Roy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandy Posted October 26, 2014 Author Share Posted October 26, 2014 (edited) Besides thinking about paint colour, I also got a little more done today - I cut out the fuel tank side screens from wire mesh and added the strengthening fillets around the tank mounts, although I'm not sure that the CA glue I used will hold them, I'll find out later! I wanted to get these and the lower /rear fuel tank screens done before painting the tank. I'll then fit them and paint the tank again. That should ensure there are no paint free "shadows" under the screens and straps that hold the rear screen in place. Thanks for looking in, Ian Edited July 15, 2017 by limeypilot 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamme Posted October 26, 2014 Share Posted October 26, 2014 Congrats, Jamme Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandy Posted November 1, 2014 Author Share Posted November 1, 2014 (edited) I made an attempt at the final stone screen today, but it'll have to be redone. 3 hours, but not wasted....at least I now have a better idea of how to go about it... I think 6.mm instead of .4mm for the frame, and I'll fit the mesh to the frame flat, then bend it to fit the tank.... Ian Edited July 15, 2017 by limeypilot 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roymattblack Posted November 1, 2014 Share Posted November 1, 2014 The real screens were fixed to the tank with screws that passed through black rubber bobbins. I found little black plastic disks, about 2-3mm thick as odd 'bits' on some of the Bentley sprues. I glued those to the tank first, then glued the screen on. Worked a treat. You can just about make them out in the picture. Roy. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandy Posted November 1, 2014 Author Share Posted November 1, 2014 Perfect! Thanks Roy, that's just the kind of info I need - I'd been wondering how the screens were fitted! Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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