1/32 Gowland & Gowland hot rod conversion

[wkennerley]

I have a 1.32 gowland & gowland hot rod and decided to do something a bit different with it as I did not like the V8 with the kit - I found a mercedes SSK engine in my spares box as well as the chassis from the MG TD - I have mocked these up with two different sets of wheels, any thoughts please - Not trying to base it on any style per say, just a rod from different parts - I am looking for a ford coupe body to use instead of the gowland body though.

[Bengalensis]

I hope it's OK that I have made some photoshopping to your work. Just some suggestions. I think you could get a better and more proportional looking engine bay, and better overall proportions, if you make a (larger) cut out in the firewall and move the engine and the whole front end backwards, shortening the frame.

If you can do something to the front parts of the engine to allow the radiator to come backwards a bit you might get even better proportions.

[Pete in Lincs]

Yep, Jorgen has it right.

also, Pale yellow wires.

whitewall tyres.

Keep the roof.

Flat black tub & fenders.

I quite like that tub, too.

Lose the door hinges.

Rescribe the door a little wider?

[wkennerley]

Hi Jorgen, no probs, the engine will sit further back under the firewall, this was simply a basic mock up to see how it looked. With the engine moved back I can place the radiator back as well. Not sure about shortening the chassis but I can have a look at that. It has also been suggested that I lose the wings.

Hi Pete, thanks for your tips too, definitely lose the hinges had not thought of widening the door, good idea. I am looking for slot car tyes and wheels to suit, I like the wires but they are a bit narrow (amd they are not spare as I neeedd them for the Lincoln that they come from), the car needs some wide tyres anyway.

Wayne

[Black Knight]

If you loose the front mudguards, do you need the TD chassis at all? Run some H- or L-beam plastruct as a frame chassis. A couple of cross pieces for a ladder or cross frame.

If you loose the front m/gds I would go for skinnies on the front, maybe a couple of wheels from an Airfix Vintage/Veteran car, and run fatty slicks on the rear. You could enclose the artillery spokes with plasticard as moondiscs or just as solid alloys.

Get thee hence to your nearest car-boot sale/jumble sale. One can pick up broken toy cars for a few pence and they sometimes have very decent wheels, very useable on specials. They can supply seats, steering wheels, light units [mainly adaptable/conversion tho], dash/instrument panels etc.

I have several sets of wheels from Scalextric cars. Whilst they have some good alloy patterns, they are all of one width and diameter and not really suitable [iMHO] for a custom like this.

The wheels will make or break the looking-rightness of it.

I have this same car to do some time, but haven't studied it. I just might do so now, and put into shape my ideas, see if they are or are

[wkennerley]

Thanks Black Knight, off to the bootsale this weekend! Was using the TD chassis as it was available and true, well I thought it was true but I see it has a warp. So out with the plastic strip it will be - I have some veteran wooden wheels off a Mercedes 1904 that might work for the front wheels.

Wayne

[wkennerley]

Progress to date

Wayne

[wkennerley]

!st coat of primer applied

[Oddball]

I really like this, very old school. Any ideas for paint yet?

Odd.

[wkennerley]

Thanks Odd, very basic paint as below - I need to source an exhaust

Wayne

[Black Knight]

Looking almost rat

Exhaust; try looking at Hotwheels or Matchbox 'custom' cars. Or again, busted toy cars

I knew I had this car to build. Searched every where for it, looked on my stash spread sheet to see where it was supposed to be, wasn't there. Then penny clicked; it was one of the models I sent to the troops in Afghanistan earlier this year.

So, I'll have to find another car kit to customise sometime.

[Oddball]

Wayne, try using thin plastic rod. If you hold it over a candle until it can just be bent (too long and it'll deform) you should be able to come up with something.

Odd.

[triumphfan]

Solder is great for making custom exhausts. I use 2mm for re-working exhausts on old Merit race car models, they are 1/24 so you would probanly have to go a bit thinner.

It doesn't need to be heated and holds shape well if you don't put too much pressure on it after forming.

Steve.

[wkennerley]

Thanks for the tips guys, I will have a look at trying them out - Wayne