Tank tracks

[Tin_Bitz]

Hi

I am not really a tank man by trade but have an interest and have a few kits to build. What do people think of buying after market tracks? I have the Tamiya 1/35 mid production tiger to build and was wandering if it's worth replacing the tracks that come with the kit? Any thoughts?

[pigsty]

It really depends how devoted you are to accuracy - not just of the track links themselves, but of how they sit.

Vinyl tracks' two greatest drawbacks are (i) they go round the ends in curves - you can see individual links bend round the idler, especially. The real things are, of course, flat plates connected with hinges; and (ii) they're often too short, or too long, or too stiff, leading to all sorts of problems.

AM tracks have drawbacks too: (i) generally expensive - sometimes more than the kit costs; (ii) almost always very fiddly to assemble; (iii) not always as accurate as they're cracked up to be (though some vinyl tracks are shockingly wrong).

The advantages of each are the reverse of these drawbacks, of course.

A further complication is that tracks often evolve, which means you need to be firmly sure you've identified the right variety for what you're building.

Personally I'm happy to persevere with kit tracks unless they're glaringly wrong in one of the ways above. You can do a lot with paint to make them look metallic (thus negating the greatest advantage of Friulmodel tracks, for example) and in most cases they can be made to fit and sit right. There are all sorts of tricks for making vinyl tracks bend convincingly. But if I were you, I'd try something other than a Tiger first. It has a long run of sagging track along the top; this is hard to get right and a bit of a challenge for the beginner. Something with return rollers will fit tighter, often with no sag needed, and will give you a better feel for whether you like vinyl tracks. Then you can decide how much better you'd find replacement tracks for the Tiger.

[Sgt.Squarehead]

If the tracks are Vinyl or DS-100 and your budget will stretch to it, replace them.....For all the reasons stated by Sean and a couple of others besides (mould seams and 'track rot').

[pigsty]

Oh yes, I'd forgotten disintegrating tracks. They're not common, but it's a known phenomenon. I have some pretty old vinyl tracks that are fine - they've not become brittle or anything troublesome. But some specific examples have been known to eat plastic. The common view is that they contain too much plasticiser, which leaches out and consumes polystyrene. It should be possible to prevent it with a barrier coat, eg Klear. But I've erred on the safe side and bought replacements - eg for Revell's 1/35 PzH 2000. This is a feature of some vinyl tyres, too, and not just on armour. The famous one is the big market in replacement wheels for AMT's 1/48 F7F series (not a problem in Italeri's version).

Mould seams are a pain on vinyl tracks because they run along the outer edges (and are very obvious) and are a sod to remove. But not all replacements are seam-free, and they can add them in equally awkward places. They can also be worse than the originals for things like ejector pins. The best thing is to check carefully before you buy.

[Tin_Bitz]

Thanks for taking the time to explain that all, I have already completed a number of Tamiya 1/32 tanks (Panther, panzer II and Cromwell ). I have the Eduard photo etch for the kit, sorting a diorama base and wills be soon sourcing some half decent figures for it. Going to be a bit of a project....

It would be a shame if the whole thing we're let down by poor tracks. I will probably get some after market ones the question is can anyone recommend any?

[capt_biggles]

I would go for metal on most if not every occasions as they sit correctly, and feel right, where I am mid-way through a Tamiya 1/35 Tiger 1 mid production build, and have decided not to use the plastic links after making a small section. One disadvantage with metal tracks is that they take a lot of time to put together, but the end result is worth it, and they did cost more than the actual kit.

[Mike]

I prefer individual link tracks, but I'm not massively bothered if they're plastic or metal. Metal makes the job easier, as you can drop them in some Ultimate Track Fluid, and they come up a nice realistic collection of rust/dirt shades. The plastic ones just get a base coat of Vallejo Track Primer, and then get covered in pigment, using an artist's pencil to create the metallic wear patterns on the road wheel and ground contact areas.

Plaggy tracks are bendy, so you don't get the correct faceted look around the track run ends, you seldom get the same level of detail, and painting them is harder, because it can peel off with the flexing. They are QUICK and EASY though, so it appeals to those that either don't fancy the extra work, or struggle to make individual links work for them. It's just don't to your own choice at the end of the day, so do what you like, and enjoy it

[phildagreek]

I've used oob vinyl, oob plastic individual tracks and aftermarket. Apart from the vinyl, which I didn't find too satisfying to look at, the rest drove me mad with fiddling, what a pain! But they do look good.

That was probably no help at all! Good luck!

[Marcus]

I find it all depends on the shape you are asking the tracks to conform to; Panther or Tiger have lots of sag and a subject such as a KV has complex structure over the idlers so plastic will not look as good. I am currently building a Panzer IV Ausf h and the standard Tamiya tracks look fine.

Marcus

[Tin_Bitz]

Thanks for all the fee back seeing as I have cut and filed all the plastic individual links with the kit I am going to give them ago.