lowlevelraf Posted August 8, 2014 Share Posted August 8, 2014 HI All, Its my first real W.I.P thread on here, some fantastic builds which really makes me want to make a good job on this kit! The kit! The New release 1/48 Tornado IDS boxing, however I wish to make an RAF Tornado GR4. Nice to see in the boxing its self,there is not only a LRMTS in kit, but also a FLIR and Sky Shadow ECM pod ! Sadly, not RAF decals as a German IDS boxed only kit. I want to make a standard RAF Squadron aircraft, with the aircraft modeled in flight, a shame with all the parts to do flaps down etc but i'll do that on the next GR4 build I have 2x RAF Aircrew figures, seated, by P J Productions, plus I have sent off for a Litening III Pod from freightdog models. I do need to get the best decals for a RAF Tornado GR4, I know the Model Alliance decals are good, but not sure which would be best for me. Below, this is something I would like to replicate. Loadout of 2x 1500 External Tanks, 1x BOZ 107 (Starboard), 1x Sky Shadow (Port), 1x RAIDS (Port), 1x Practice ASRAAM which they carry on Right shoulder Pylon, adn a Litening III TGP under fuselage. I was thinking to do a all over mdeium sea grey jet, or maybe do EB-Q or EB-B, new looking 41 ® Sqn aicraft with same load. However, On with the the model itself! Only have made a bit of progress due to my work shifts, but I have made up the pilots, started the cockpit and intake section the cockpit sits on, plus could not resist making some of the loadout photo 4 by lowlevelRAF, on Flickr photo 1 (1) by lowlevelRAF, on Flickr photo 3 by lowlevelRAF, on Flickr Then had a issue with a pilot while trying to cut off the transport material! photo 2 (1) by lowlevelRAF, on Flickr Any help would be great or suggests One thing I would like, what washed would people recommend and how do they work! As I would love to get the panel lines out more but I've never tried or known how to go about it All the best, Matt 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phildagreek Posted August 8, 2014 Share Posted August 8, 2014 You can pre shade or post shade. I prefer pre shade,but I'm sure plenty of people will jump in, there seems to be at least 100 ways to go about it. Before painting, I use Humbrol matt black, thinned down a lot, using a brush I run it through the panel lines, once or maybe twice. Then I paint the colour I want, again using thinned paint,so the panel lines are "naturally" darker than the aircraft. I've recently tried painting panels, or the centre of panels with thinned black or white so when you paint the main colour you get lighter and darker panels. I quite like the results, it's a matter of degrees really, how clean or dirty do you want the jet? I think Tonkas and A10's are meant robe dirty whereas a Hawk should be clean. Some people do the painting then gloss varnish and decal and gloss varnish then run the thinned black in the panel lines. Others use a pencil in between the panels to achieve the same. I bought a couple of really cheap kits to try out different ideas, I still don't know for sure! Have fun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbine_Man Posted August 9, 2014 Share Posted August 9, 2014 (edited) Will be watching with interest. For me the preshade with black on the panel lines and other high use areas works well as long as you do not over do the top coat so that some of it shows through. I am looking at buying this kit to make up a GR1 of 9 sqdn from Honington days or perhaps a GR1A from 13. Good luck. Edited August 9, 2014 by Turbine_Man Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary West Posted August 9, 2014 Share Posted August 9, 2014 Just received this kit myself, and what a thing of joy it is too! You ask about washes (not shading) - when I use a wash, I use raw umber oils thinned to the consistency of your choice - have never used anything else, seems to do the job perfectly. On shading however, I would add a big thumbs up for post shading and like many, I use pastel chalks. From panel lines, to exhaust staines you can do it all with chalks. Lots of tutorials out there. Good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
general melchett Posted August 9, 2014 Share Posted August 9, 2014 Yep, agree with the above..I mostly use W&N raw umber, lamp black and sienna oils thinned with quality turpentine and find it's still the best way to go, though of course there are loads of specialist products coming onto the market.( a tube of oil lasts forever though so very cost effective !). Though not a huge fan of the Tornado I might well be tempted by this one.....look forward to progress low level fella.... Melchie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowlevelraf Posted August 10, 2014 Author Share Posted August 10, 2014 Thanks for the great responses guys I think I need to do abit of digging again and more research I am tempted to try a wash after paint and decals on, however don't know whether to try a gloss coat after painting, as never tried that either! I think I may have found some base decals to get from model Alliance from Hannants: http://www.hannants.co.uk/product/ML48104 Hopefully these will get me some good RAF GR4 Base decals at least I am painting the and modifying the cockpit at the moment, scratch making my own TARDIS display for the rear seat, replacing the circle map. I may add the NVG box for the front seat, on top on the cockpit panel, to the left of the HUD. Its progessing nicely, hopefully will have some more photos tomorrow. Kind regards, Matt:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowlevelraf Posted August 11, 2014 Author Share Posted August 11, 2014 HI Guys, Quick update with pictures Now before I show you the pictures, please note i'm not the greatest painter in the world! First, I would like to show the Tardis rear display for the WSO. The kit one is very limited in looks, so I have scratch made parts to mod the standard kit rear center console to RAF standard with TARDIS display as seen here: Copyright to the original owner! Here is my attempt at modelling a Tardis unit defaultwso1 by lowlevelRAF, on Flickr mod1tardis by lowlevelRAF, on Flickr mod2tardis by lowlevelRAF, on Flickr mod3tardis by lowlevelRAF, on Flickr And the final piece with the big mfd in place. I made this with a piece of fin take off a extra sidewinder in the kit, then cut out a small edge part of an old aviation map I have, stuck that on for the screen, then tried to hand paint the button around it and then put 2x extra decal gauges on the top. I have only used main gauges from the cockpit decals, I think it looks better Below is also the finished MB Mk10's, the pilot and his WSO (right), and the front main cockpit. This I have added a altimeter bar on the left side of the HUD and a G-Meter on the right side. All the cockpit is finished and ready for gluing later tonight. modtardisfin by lowlevelRAF, on Flickr mk10fin by lowlevelRAF, on Flickr frontpitfin by lowlevelRAF, on Flickr finpilots by lowlevelRAF, on Flickr Overall, Im happy with the progress and looking forward to rest of the build! C + C welcome Matt 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowlevelraf Posted August 27, 2014 Author Share Posted August 27, 2014 HI Guys, Sorry for the lack of progress, work has been chaos! The pilot and cockpit and now complete adn glued together. Wings I have decide to glue at a certain mid range, as the model will be displayed in flight. 1 by lowlevelRAF, on Flickr 2 by lowlevelRAF, on Flickr 3 by lowlevelRAF, on Flickr An over view how it standing now 7 by lowlevelRAF, on Flickr However, sadly I have now got to a very annoying part of the build. I have to report, that trying to add the top of the fuselage which includes links the tops of the two intakes. The fit is very bad, considing this is a new kit out, they have not the dimensions I think right. Some pictures to show what I mean. Also, where the air brake housing at the back on the top fuselage, it top long, this meaning the engine mounting do not fit as well correctly. Such a shame for a promising kit. I not really too sure how I will tackle this now. May take a break from my Tornado as do more on my Hasegawa Typhoon FGR4 in 1/72. 4 by lowlevelRAF, on Flickr Left side at the back. 5 by lowlevelRAF, on Flickr and the right.. 6 by lowlevelRAF, on Flickr I have never used mini put or filler but I think I may have to order some! Regards, Matt 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Moff Posted September 29, 2014 Share Posted September 29, 2014 someone left their JTAC Course notes out...??!! Looks good! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty Posted September 30, 2014 Share Posted September 30, 2014 Good start, nice work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burnie43 Posted October 6, 2014 Share Posted October 6, 2014 I'm just going to tackle this kit so thanks for the info.......here we go cio Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheStig Posted October 6, 2014 Share Posted October 6, 2014 Looking good so far, I have this in the stash so will be watching. liking the look of the pilots too, something to think about. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun Posted December 10, 2015 Share Posted December 10, 2015 HI Guys, Sorry for the lack of progress, work has been chaos! The pilot and cockpit and now complete adn glued together. Wings I have decide to glue at a certain mid range, as the model will be displayed in flight. 1 by lowlevelRAF, on Flickr 2 by lowlevelRAF, on Flickr 3 by lowlevelRAF, on Flickr An over view how it standing now 7 by lowlevelRAF, on Flickr However, sadly I have now got to a very annoying part of the build. I have to report, that trying to add the top of the fuselage which includes links the tops of the two intakes. The fit is very bad, considing this is a new kit out, they have not the dimensions I think right. Some pictures to show what I mean. Also, where the air brake housing at the back on the top fuselage, it top long, this meaning the engine mounting do not fit as well correctly. Such a shame for a promising kit. I not really too sure how I will tackle this now. May take a break from my Tornado as do more on my Hasegawa Typhoon FGR4 in 1/72. 4 by lowlevelRAF, on Flickr Left side at the back. 5 by lowlevelRAF, on Flickr and the right.. 6 by lowlevelRAF, on Flickr I have never used mini put or filler but I think I may have to order some! Regards, Matt It appears you have mounted the airbrake bay in the wrong position, too far rear. Shaun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun Posted December 10, 2015 Share Posted December 10, 2015 someone left their JTAC Course notes out...??!! Looks good! It's hardly classified - http://www.users.on.net/~jase_ash/styled-9/styled-2/index.html My fav are, call for Rope, Snake ,Sparkle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnonymousAA72 Posted December 10, 2015 Share Posted December 10, 2015 It appears you have mounted the airbrake bay in the wrong position, too far rear. Shaun. Additionally, it's advisable to not to glue the rear of the cockpit section to the intake section. By not doing this it allows the upper decking to fit. Check out General Melchett's pinned build at the head of this section.... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcdonnell Posted December 10, 2015 Share Posted December 10, 2015 Hello,Lowlevelraf - You're doing a fine job with your 'Tornado' build.I really like the look of the cockpit and the crew figures will bring the finished build 'to life'.I have just got the new Revell GR4 and look forward to building this type.All the best,Paul. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbine_Man Posted December 10, 2015 Share Posted December 10, 2015 I had the very same issue.. No matter what I did could not get the intakes to sit right.. Work in progress but will probably put intake covers on them both. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun Posted December 11, 2015 Share Posted December 11, 2015 Additionally, it's advisable to not to glue the rear of the cockpit section to the intake section. By not doing this it allows the upper decking to fit. Check out General Melchett's pinned build at the head of this section.... Is a great kit and well thought out by Revel but its best to avoid following the instructions to get a cleaner build. I have found to get a cleaner build you must, must test and dry fit. Only glue once you know the whole assembly will fit. I build the complete rear first but leave the front part of the intake trucking and upper deck loose/unglued, this allows you to adjust the fit of the nose assembly and get an excellent fit with very little clean up. Here one I'm doing with the gear up on a stand. Another area to watch out for is the intake ramps, cut off the lug on the upper surface and fit flat. Tornado ramps are normally retracted and the ramp only drops for supersonic flight and this configuration is rarely seen on the ground.Check your photo's! Shaun. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowlevelraf Posted December 11, 2015 Author Share Posted December 11, 2015 Cheers for the ideas. I must admit I havn't done much, however I may try the new GR4 kit, hopefully a better fit! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sebastien Posted December 11, 2015 Share Posted December 11, 2015 Cheers for the ideas. I must admit I havn't done much, however I may try the new GR4 kit, hopefully a better fit! Don't bet on it, it's exactly the same plastic, with just the big jugs and the RAF pylons added. Cheers, S. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lesthegringo Posted January 11, 2016 Share Posted January 11, 2016 So for dopes like me, what are the main differences between the two marks of Tornado? If I couldn't get the GR4 (which isn't yet on sale here in Oz) could I make one from the IDS kit? Les Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweeky Posted January 11, 2016 Share Posted January 11, 2016 Gr1/Gr4 ground attack usually two weapons station per wing, less pointy nose and shorter rear fuselage, one Sidewinder per wing on the inner pylon, also carries bombs under the fuselage. Two cannons. Gr1A as above but was the photo recci version carries no cannons. F3 Interceptor/fighter pointy nose only one weapon station per wing (have been know to use four in certain circumstances) four Sidewinders per wing + drop tanks and four medium range missiles carried semi recessed under the fuselage onlt one cannon carried longer rear fuselage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boman Posted January 11, 2016 Share Posted January 11, 2016 Les, Yes, you should be able to build the GR 1/4 from the IDS kit, but the IDS doesn't come with the chin pods of the GR1/4 - in perticular the clear lense is missing. You can build any of the Italian or German ones though, or if you get hold of the corrected clear sprue - also the GR1/4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowlevelraf Posted January 11, 2016 Author Share Posted January 11, 2016 Hi All, Thankfully, I have some free time coming up, so may try sort this tornado out! Might taking it to bits, but be a shame to waste a kit as it were! Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lesthegringo Posted January 11, 2016 Share Posted January 11, 2016 Les, Yes, you should be able to build the GR 1/4 from the IDS kit, but the IDS doesn't come with the chin pods of the GR1/4 - in perticular the clear lense is missing. You can build any of the Italian or German ones though, or if you get hold of the corrected clear sprue - also the GR1/4 Thanks! Les Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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