Decal solution stronger than Microsol?

[85sqn]

Hi folks I've just been applying decals on a hasegawa hellcat using Aeromaster decals. There's a little bit of silvering going on, in the past I've pricked small holes and filled it with either Future or more Microsol. Trouble is that it hasn't entirely eliminated all the silvering yet and I am not standing for it.

Is there anything stronger worth using?

[charley420]

Humbrol decal fix is pretty strong it melts vallejo paint.

I like to use daco decal solutions I've had good results with them.

[SaintsPhil]

Is the silvering due to the setting solution or not having a gloss surface to start with?

[85sqn]

It has a gloss surface, done with alclad gloss and rubbed down with micromesh in between coats. Its not massive areas of silvering just a few select parts mainly on two decals that are quite large and stretch across the fuselage. The decals are quite thick and microsol does not seem to want to suck the decal into the panel lines. They went on with hot water and I have used a fair bit of microsol over the course of a few days by letting it dry and then have another go.

Is that the new Humbrol Decalfix, as they changed solution recently didn't they?

I'll check those out its worth a go. I dont want to flood it with future just yet as you cant really go past that.

[avro683]

As SaintsPhil has said, a gloss finish to start with really helps. I normally coat my models with a couple of coats of Klear (Future), apply transfers and then seal with more Klear, effectively sandwiching the transfers in. Seems to work well for me anyway.

[SaintsPhil]

In that case you could try Mr Mark Softener, the far eastern decal setters are by and large stronger as the far eastern decals are by and large thicker! The other option for thick decals is to use near boiling water to remove them for backing and soften them. I've tried this recently with Tamiya and Hasegawa decals along with Microsol/set and it worked very well!

I've never tried the DACO ones, but I've only heard good things so I intend to try them!

[Nigel Heath]

I have used the Daco "Strong Version" setting solution on thick and reluctant decals and it works well. It is definitely stronger than the Microsol products.

[Filler]

Do Hasegawa decals, particularly in older kits qualify as 'think and reluctant' decals? I was quite interested in the Daco solutions as I have not been getting on so well with either the Microscale or Mr Hobby versions. They both keep leaving a cloudy/milky white residue. Not sure if that's down to how they react with Gunze acrylic coated in classic Klear though. Might give the Daco stuff a whirl.

[SaintsPhil]

Try the nearly boiling water technique on Hasegawa decals I think you'll be pleasantly surprised!!

[little-cars]

There are loads of different decal setting solutions out there, Vallejo do one, Humbrol and MRcolour (as has been mentioned)

Solvaset is another stronger one, but not really imported much into the UK. Tameo Kits do two a standard and a the strongest I have ever seen, turnd decals into jelly in about a second!

The best all round ones to have on hand are the Daco ones are great, three strengths, Green - std, Orange - stronger, Red - very strong. The red one doesn't appear to do anything at first, then the whole decal relaxes.

We have Daco, Mrcolor, vallejo and microscale in stock and at shows.

Paul

[Filler]

Nearly boiling water sounds interesting. I'll give it a go. I've often wondered if the old fashioned use of water might still be the best and that these solutions were just gimmicks. Still might plump for some Daco solutions though. and it's handy to know that I can get some locally too.

[georgeusa]

Daco and Solvaset are definitely stronger than Micro Sol. If repeated treatments with Micro Sol don't work (might try to smooth down the decal with a soft brush soaked in Micro Sol), then go to Solvaset. Just start slow so as to not melt the decals where you don't want them melted.

[85sqn]

Thanks folks that's a good few options there to try out. I'll let you know how I get on.

[Pin]

+1 for Daco

Actually, Danny offers three different solutions - mild, medium and strong

[JeffreyK]

Also, use a sharp needle or knife point to pierce the offending decal where the silvering occurs. Brush on your decal softener of choice which will then seep underneath the decal. This might solve the problem.

Jeffrey

[85sqn]

Chaps thanks for your help, Daco strong has just annihilated any vestiges of silvering and sorted the decals out a treat!!!!!

I know what to use in the future!

[Rob 1]

I've been reading an IPMS Stockholm article on this problem of stubborn silvering, where they suggested the (very carefull) use of NitroCellulose thinner. This is such strong stuff it should disolve and re-set the silvered decals, even after post sprayed varnishing, but with a warning of caution to test first on a hidden part first, and apply sparingly!

http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/magazine/2006/10/stuff_eng_benshahar_bf110.htm

I may give it a try on my annoyingly silvered Great Wall Hobby decals that went on last weekend.

[Pin]

Well, Nitro Cellulose thinner can solve the problem of the stubborn plastic of your entire model.

[Tim T]

I assume it is a bit like using Tamiya Extra Thin or Gunze Mr Cement S glue on decals. It is something of a nuclear option but if you are careful it does get rid of any silvering. And if you are not careful the whole decal! (ask me how I know...)

[Rob 1]

Well, I tried it yesterday evening, I have Cellulose thinners, not sure if that's the same as Nitro Cellulose, but I know it is powerfull stuff when I've used it before.

I tested it on a small decal on the underside - the silvering disappeared imediately and the paint seemed to be untouched. So I moved on to the big troublesome decals on the upper surfaces, painted it on cautiously, then less cautiously - it didn't touch the paintwork at all (I'd used Revell Aqua and Vallejo varnish, and all had dried for a couple of days). The decals responded fairly well, the silvering vanished from the larger areas of clear film, although a few stubborn areas still remained on some narrow strips where they go over uneven surfaces, but all in all, much improved.

I also used it's thin paint film stripping ability to clean off some overspray that had somehow crept inside the glazed areas (of which there are many on the FW189), using a fine brush and some of those hardened cotton ended sticks soaked in the thinner, so turned out to be quite useful overall, and a productive evening's work.

Edited August 13, 2014 by Rob 1

[Andre B]

Any good experiences with Humbrol Decal Fix? I havn't heard about an new soution, just that they using a bigger bottle.

Comparet to Micro Sol and Micro Set I cant say that Humbrol Decal Fix did anything at all. Nothing that water didn't do...

So wats the excellent with Humbrol Decal fix?

/ Andre

[Julien]

If you have future/Lear then this is excellent at getting decals to conform. Put the decal down on a pool of Klear, wick away the excess and it pulls down decals like nothing.

[dreamwriter]

Hi everyone,

I´ve been looking everywhere for solutions to a similar problem applying decals on my Nichimo Ki-51 Sonia.Altough they adhere well to the model on plain surfaces,they are very thick and don´t conform where the surface is not plain.For example,part of the wings hinomarus are over the flaps and stay flat,not conforming to the gap between flaps and wing.The same happens with the tail signs and fuselage hinoramus that are over a raised panel.I´ve always used the same system a lot of people use: Paint -> two coats of Klear -> Decals applied with Microset and finally Microsol and has worked so far,but not this time.I´m about to order a bottle of Mr. Mark Softer since it´s said to be stronger than Microsol,but read elsewhere that Tamiya X-20A thinner could solve my problem too and I would like to try it.My question is if anyone has tried it on decals and if it won´t eat trhough the Klear and damage the paintwork. Hope you can help me.

Cheers,

Bruno

[dreamwriter]

Anyone?

[georgeusa]

Sorry, I have no experience with Mr. Mark Softner. Solvaset is stronger than Micro Sol and what I usually turn to if repeated applications of Micro Sol don't work. Normally on stubborn decals, I drown the decal in Micro Sol, let it set for 12 hours and, more often than not, the decal conforms to the kit detail.