Humbrol Enamels, can I use Lacquer thinner?

[CharlieNZ]

Having moved almost exclusively to acrylics over the last decade, I find myself returning to Humbrol enamels for my Airfix Swordfish. This is because I have about half the colours in my old stash of humbrol enamels, and the remaining colours (light and dark slate grey) are most easily sourced from the Humbrol range.

So, my question is, can I use Lacquer thinners to thin humbrol enamel? I have both Tamiya and Mr Colour levelling thinner Lacquer thinner.

Failing that I still have a small jar of Humbrol enamel thinners.

[Cheshiretaurus]

Give it a try on scrap part or plasicard, White spirit is also good for Humbrol enamels.

[SaintsPhil]

Yes you can and it works better than enamel thinners in my experience! Leveling thinners is particularly good. If you use Laquer thinners I would suggest priming first to avoid damaging the plastic as it's pretty hot! Just be aware that if you try and spray Mr color over the enamel it will craze so plan accordingly.

[steelpillow]

Be warned that cheap white spirit yellows badly with age. I have a beige-coloured SR 53 that, thirty-five years ago, was a spanking shiny airbrushed white.

Nowadays I always try to use "own-brand" thinners, etc. unless it is sold for the purpose by a reputable manufacturer. Then leave to dry thoroughly before overcoating with someone else's product. You never quite know what will happen when you mix chemical brews from different manufacturers in ways they never intended.

[pinky coffeeboat]

Echoing what others have said, lacquer thinners (or cellulose thinners) can be used to thin Humbrol. I use it to thin Xtracolor and Revell paints too and it really helps with their drying time; it's almost touch dry at the end of the session.

I would agree with the others and exercise caution in application. Start with a thin mist to get a base layer before building up the colour to the depth you require.

And always wear a mask, open the windows and use an extractor if you can. It's pretty nasty stuff.

Jeff

[andym]

Be warned that cheap white spirit yellows badly with age. I have a beige-coloured SR 53 that, thirty-five years ago, was a spanking shiny airbrushed white.

Nowadays I always try to use "own-brand" thinners, etc. unless it is sold for the purpose by a reputable manufacturer. Then leave to dry thoroughly before overcoating with someone else's product. You never quite know what will happen when you mix chemical brews from different manufacturers in ways they never intended.

If you used white Humbrol paint (and other enamels) it's more likely the paint, humbrol whites are notorious for this, I have things brush painted Humbrol white years ago, matt and gloss, and they are now nicely yellowed, same with Humbrol tinlet varnish.

As regards using laquer thinner I use a 50/50 mix of lacquer thinner and humbrol thinner to thin all my humbrol enamel paints and a similar mix of lacquer thinner and xtracolor quick drying thinner for my xtracolors.

HTH

Andy

Edited July 10, 2014 by andym

[steelpillow]

My

If you used white Humbrol paint (and other enamels) it's more likely the paint, humbrol whites are notorious for this, I have things brush painted Humbrol white years ago, matt and gloss, and they are now nicely yellowed, same with Humbrol tinlet varnish.

HTH
Andy

My X-3 Stilletto was brush-painted neat from the tin (ah, those days of innocence) and it yellowed a lot less. Right now I have a bottle of white spirit about two years old and it is already visibly brown.

Thanks for the tip about the varnish. I was on the point of giving up on it for another reason - satin coming out as alternate gloss and matt streaks.

[Cheshiretaurus]

I have a bottle of white spirit about two years old and it is already visibly brown.

Strange, what brand is it?, I have a 4 year old one from Homebase still clear.

[CharlieNZ]

Thanks for the replies, I'll give the lacquer thinner a go. Fortunately I do have an extractor and a decent 3M mask with organic vapour cartridges and particulate filters.

Mentioning the varnish makes me think of another question. These days all my gloss and matt clear coats are acrylic, is there likely to be any issues with applying a gloss acrylic (either tamiya x22 or Klear) over the enamels, providing I leave the enamels to cure sufficiently first?

[SaintsPhil]

That'll be fine too, as long as, as you say, you leave long enough for everything to cure

[steelpillow]

Strange, what brand is it?, I have a 4 year old one from Homebase still clear.

So cheap the label fell off a while ago. Good-quality white spirit is probably fine - no home owner likes their paintwork yellowing with age.

I just use it for cleaning brushes, wiping down, getting the label glue off jam jars, etc.

Edited July 10, 2014 by steelpillow

[colin]

I think Andy's idea might be the answer, I've tried Humbrol thinned with lacquer thinner and it dried quite grainy, drying in the air before it hit the model, his way might give it more time to level off before drying

This was the china humbrol though so it may have been that also, as they had quality issues then

[Space Ranger]

Some years ago, a master modeler whose name escapes me but who was famous for his large-scale scratch-built aircraft models, cast from resin, recommended a mix of Humbrol enamel, satin varnish, lacquer thinner, and mineral spirits in roughly equal proportions. He claimed it allowed him to gradually build up thin coats approaching a true prototypical appearance to scale, and judging from photos, he was right.

I've never tried his formula, but I have sprayed Humbrol thinned with hardware/paint store lacquer thinner or xylene with good results. You just have to spray it in thin mist coats, allowing each to dry thoroughly. A low pressure also helps.