shawty82 Posted July 5, 2014 Share Posted July 5, 2014 (edited) Does anybody have any experience with the Badger Renegade series of airbrushes? Liking the look of the Krome one as a replacement for my old single action Badger Edited July 5, 2014 by shawty82 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
little-cars Posted July 5, 2014 Share Posted July 5, 2014 Sorry no, I avoid badger brushes as I don't like the secondary levers falling into the brush body. What sort of models are you painting, large camo areas, fine detail ?? Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted July 5, 2014 Share Posted July 5, 2014 I don't like Badger full-stop, as they're a bit of a backwater product that seems much more agricultural than its competition 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shawty82 Posted July 6, 2014 Author Share Posted July 6, 2014 Both really Paul. Am planning on keeping my existing Badger for painting larger areas, as it still does the job, and a new dual action for detail, I mostly build 48 scale kits. Would like to start using pre/post shading and just can't get fine enough on my current ab even with an ultra fine detail kit and fitted. Could you explain the comment you made about the secondary levers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noeyedears Posted July 6, 2014 Share Posted July 6, 2014 i prefer my renegade velocity to my iwata hp cs. Being a .2 nozzle it only gets used for alclads theses days, but its much more controlable for detail work. the iwata air valve keeps sticking too requiring lubrication 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
little-cars Posted July 6, 2014 Share Posted July 6, 2014 Both really Paul. Am planning on keeping my existing Badger for painting larger areas, as it still does the job, and a new dual action for detail, I mostly build 48 scale kits. Would like to start using pre/post shading and just can't get fine enough on my current ab even with an ultra fine detail kit and fitted. Could you explain the comment you made about the secondary levers? Sorry been out today....wife's birthday! secondary leaver is the little bit of bent metal that sits behind the trigger in the top of the airbrush. When you pull the trigger back this pushes the needle chuck (and the attached needle) back. In badger brushes this is often a separate piece and has the habit of falling into the body of the brush if the trigger is removed or needle chuck removed. Most annoying as you have to fiddle to get it back in the right place. I had a badger 100 and the first time it happened it took about 30 minutes to get it back together. Some other brushes like a lot of the Iwata range now have the secondary leaver fixed to the needle chuck. Harder & Steenbeck have the secondary leaver attached around the neck of the trigger, easy to put together and take apart, less pieces to reassemble. Harder & Steenbeck have four different nozzle sizes that fit the Evolution and Infinity range. 0.6mm for very large area, 0.4mm for area work and priming, 0.2mm for general work, spray pattern about 13mm down to 1mm, and the 0.15mm nozzle down to pencil thickness. . They also have different paint cups that screw onto the brush, for fine detail work you can remove the paint cup and use in internal paint cup (about 0.5ml). This allows you to see the front of the brush and apply the paint where you want it. We all have different definitions for paint coverage, how do you define ultra fine detail ?? Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Brown Posted July 6, 2014 Share Posted July 6, 2014 i prefer my renegade velocity to my iwata hp cs. Being a .2 nozzle it only gets used for alclads theses days, but its much more controlable for detail work. the iwata air valve keeps sticking too requiring lubrication The CR can do this. Pretty rare though. The valve will need a strip and clean then lube with a good quality oil, NOT their Supalube though! That's great for the needle after a clean, but gums up the valve. HTH, Rick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ultimate Products Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 I had a Renegade Krome for over a year and hated it! Just couldn't get on with it at all, really poor airbrush for the money. I ended up going for the H&S Infinity CR Plus and what an airbrush! Definitely the Rolls Royce of airbrushes and will improve your airbrushing no end Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noeyedears Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 i was thinking about getting a khrome, am having second thoughts now though. think ill buy a new air valve assembly for my hp-cs instead. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shawty82 Posted July 8, 2014 Author Share Posted July 8, 2014 Paul, ultra fine detail in so far as my current airbrush is capable is a spray pattern of about 4-5mm, so when preshading my kits look like I've gone at them with a chunky marker pen. I was quite disappointed and was expecting so much more. Had enough of not being able to employ more advanced techniques, hence wanting an upgrade. I'm not after pencil thickness in terms of spray pattern but not too far off! The guy I'm gonna be buying a new ab from has also kinda talked me out of a Badger and into an Iwata High Performance Plus HP-B Plus - H 2001 at a very reasonable price so come mid August (when I'll have the money for it) thats what I'm getting. Thoughts and opinions from anybody are welcome Ultimate - that same ab was also recommended to me elsewhere, I hope my choice matches the quality of yours! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean1968 Posted July 22, 2014 Share Posted July 22, 2014 I've got a Badger Krome and a Iwata. To be honest I always go for the Krome (personal choice I guess). It's never let me down and it just works. If I broke it, I'd get another one without a second thought. As the old saying goes "it's what you do with it!" 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smuts Posted August 6, 2014 Share Posted August 6, 2014 Wouldn't go near a badger ,had a go at a show demo,not in the same league as Iwata or Hs! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotthldr Posted August 6, 2014 Share Posted August 6, 2014 I've been using the Renegade Spirit for 3 years with no problems, great AB and it gives great results. Never had any problem with secondary levers, yes they can fall inside the casing when stripping and rebuilding the AB for cleaning, but a quick turn upside down and it'll drop back into position. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean1968 Posted August 17, 2014 Share Posted August 17, 2014 I agree with scotthldr 100%. Some comments make me chuckle to myself; one brand of airbrush doesn't make you an accomplished airbrush artist! If you are good with the airbrush any decent airbrush will achieve the same results. True you can get used to or prefer a feel/handling of a certain brand but, at the end of the day it is your skills that count. I have an Iwata (fantastic airbrush), a Paasche (granted its older and build isn't the best but, nothing beats it for spraying large areas of thicker paint or primer), I have a H&S (almost too nice to stick paint into it) and finally I have two Badger airbrushes, the Krome being one, the other is an old workhorse that is free to a good home. As I mentioned earlier in this thread, I use the Krome more than the rest. I find the Krome as good (no better) than the H&S or the Iwata. I get exactly the same results and the control is every bit as good. As for having a demo at a show, thats not really like sitting in your own work-space and evaluating the product properly. I'm not saying the Krome is the best airbrush or you should buy a Krome. My point is, buy what works for you. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
little-cars Posted August 17, 2014 Share Posted August 17, 2014 Hi, When I bought my first brush I was sold a pup, didn't really do what I wanted and couldn't get on with it for various reasons. I agree trying brushes at a public show is not like sitting in your own space, but it does allow people to get a feel for the airbrush (, often for the first time) and see if it's for them.. The reason I have demo brushes for people to 'test drive' at shows is so they can get a feel for how the brush works and the area capabilities and paint flow rates of different nozzle sizes. If any modelling tool feels comfortable to handle you can then get on and explore it's capabilities. They also get an idea of what is involved in maintaining them. Paul Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shawty82 Posted August 22, 2014 Author Share Posted August 22, 2014 Well I went ahead and got an Iwata HP-B and have given it a quick try on some plasticard and a resin component of a current build and having the flexibility of dual action and a MAC valve I'm already happy with it and its capabilities. So guess I'll never know whether the Krome was a better choice or not! Thanks for all the comments and suggestions guys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
infofrog Posted August 23, 2014 Share Posted August 23, 2014 Check this web site out . He has a lot knowledge on air brushes and reviews for the modeler https://sites.google.com/site/donsairbrushtips/home rick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean1968 Posted August 23, 2014 Share Posted August 23, 2014 With the Iwata HP-B I'm sure you'll be very happy with it, who wouldn't be. The good thing with buying a quality airbrush (regardless of make), if you look after it, it will look after you. Enjoy the many hours of airbrushing ahead. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shawty82 Posted September 10, 2014 Author Share Posted September 10, 2014 Well having managed the time to use it properly, I'm very very happy with my new HP-B! The control I have now compared to my old single action is excellent, and am now getting consistently good finishes and using half the amount of paint! I also tried a little pre-shading on the bomb bay of a TSR2 I'm working on and it came out brilliantly - lots of depth! Shame it'll be covered by a stores package but least I got to try it. Its harder to clean than my old Badger, plus the presence of the nozzle (which is miniscule compared to my Badger) makes it interesting when fully disassembling for a good clean!! Almost lost it twice already and I've only used it 3 times now! Oh and it shoots Vallejo Air ok without the need for thinners, and Klear goes on better than I've ever seen! Big thumbs up then! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aka1878 Posted September 23, 2014 Share Posted September 23, 2014 How important is the compressor in all of this? I am considering a new airbrush but have a pretty low budget compressor - would I need to replace it to get the most out of the airbrush? The compressor is one of those mini elephant numbers so pretty cheap! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shawty82 Posted September 23, 2014 Author Share Posted September 23, 2014 I'm using a license built "Badger" tankless compressor that cost just under 80 quid, so really a budget option. I don't see any of the pulsation issues that people talk about, but the only drawback is i can't run mine without it getting hot quite quickly. I probably get half an hours use before its probably a good time to shut down to let it cool. So in answer to your question, the compressor hasn't much to do with it, but i will be buying a tanked compressor, still on a budget and from the same company that built my current one, for about £110 but only so i can paint for longer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
little-cars Posted September 23, 2014 Share Posted September 23, 2014 I always look at the compressor as the power supply and the airbrush the tool. As long as you are getting a non pulsing supply at the pressure you need the compressor is OK. There are budget ones and premium brands. A good one will last you many years, so if you get a new one make sure you get one that will do the job. The mini elephant is near the bottom end of the Chinese built compressor power range. I would expect you could get around 15psi out of it. Not sure what the duty cycle is or how it is on pulsing, keeping the pressure steady or generating moisture. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aka1878 Posted September 23, 2014 Share Posted September 23, 2014 Thanks chaps - pressure seems pretty constant and I never really run it for more than 10 minutes before it going off again, and all in all about an hour altogether. As for moisture - I don't have the faintest idea!!! What would I look for? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
little-cars Posted September 24, 2014 Share Posted September 24, 2014 Moisture can build up in the air hose. When it gets to the brush you will get a wet splat of paint out of it when you paint. Compressors usually hav ea moisture trap of some type to reduce / stop this. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aka1878 Posted September 24, 2014 Share Posted September 24, 2014 I don't really suffer too bad there so can live with what I have. As for the airbrush I'll keep looking - lots to consider it seems! Thanks for the advice Paul! Andrew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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