Codger Posted September 29, 2014 Author Share Posted September 29, 2014 A (hopefully) useful tip... Not a common building occurrence, but 'Necessity is the Mother....' With much detail to be added to the firewall, it became necessary to paint and final polish the cowl. If I detailed first, it would be impossible to mask. So the need arose to protect all that paint work on the cowl. After 3 coats clear, I polished to 8000 grit, and since this is automotive lacquer, I used auto compound to get the glass-like finish I wanted. Then applied auto wax-Mothers Carnuba in this case. Reason is I want to be certain that protective tape removes safely and easily. Next, low-tack Frog tape on the painted surfaces. Now the big secret is medical tape-in this case 3m Transpore- on top of the Frog. This tape has a nice low-tack also but a textured, protective surface. Now I can handle the part with no worries as on the bench, I always seem to get accidental scuffs and scratches no matter how careful. I have to child-proof the parts from me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roymattblack Posted September 29, 2014 Share Posted September 29, 2014 Looking really nice. I love the 'real' metal plates and bits... The tape idea is clever, but when I built my Phantom (same firewall) I developed a knack of holding it 'inside' by pushing my fingers outwards against the inner sides.... These big cars present extra problems the smaller kits don't have - particularly with the paint finish. Being so BIG, any dodgy bits really notice. ...Funny how we're both on firewalls at the minute... Roy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted September 29, 2014 Author Share Posted September 29, 2014 Your method is fine and I've used it. But not with perfect paint on the outers. You are also more skillful at avoiding dings and scuffs than I. I gotta protect my work from myself... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roymattblack Posted September 29, 2014 Share Posted September 29, 2014 What is the metal finish you use on the firewall? It looks very realistic. Roy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted September 29, 2014 Author Share Posted September 29, 2014 What is the metal finish you use on the firewall? It looks very realistic. Roy Nothing simple! Firewall: A base of Alclad II (chrome, ally, gold mix), Selective spurts of of Metalizer buffing ally. Then, in stages, Rub n' Buff mixed with graphite powder. Smush that all in with cotton tips, rubbing harder and softer in other places. More graphite on the broader 'dirtier' areas; more Rub n' Buff on the raised edges. That captures the light and the graphite has a sheen. Actually looks better in person than I can capture in snaps. The wire shielding and steering column slot are real ally but fairly scuffed. Of course, you'll see about 4% of all this when in place with the big lump in front of it.......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noeyedears Posted September 29, 2014 Share Posted September 29, 2014 How long can you leave the frog tape on before the glue starts marking the paint? Is this as good, or better than, tamiya tape? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted September 29, 2014 Author Share Posted September 29, 2014 How long can you leave the frog tape on before the glue starts marking the paint? Is this as good, or better than, tamiya tape? First off-I'm no expert. But I do test and do take precautions. The Frog has what seems like the same tack as Tamiya, however, I find the Tammy tape gives cleaner cut edges and sharp demarking lines. The Frog isn't bad but for Condition 1 paint, I mask edges with Tammy and the bulk of the masked surface with Frog. When I tape for 'long term' I always, let the paint and polish gas-out for several days so it's nice and hard. The solvents in the lacquer are what makes the tape soft and impressionable. Gassed-out, the paint is not 'hot' anymore. I then use wax on it as a barrier to the tape's adhesive. Finally, I stick the tape to my jeans to lessen the tack. Then add the medical tape to make a 'cushion' for the part. Remember, this is to protect a finish, not spray wet paint onto. All my tests showed zero print through of the tape on the paint. Believe me, if I was unsure of the procedure, I would NEVER try it on THIS project. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noeyedears Posted September 29, 2014 Share Posted September 29, 2014 Cheers for the explanation, i may be able to use that tip myself, cool! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mpfiend Posted September 30, 2014 Share Posted September 30, 2014 Really nice progress there codger, your scale finishing techniques are very convincing indeed. Best Regards Keith. Best Regards Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted September 30, 2014 Author Share Posted September 30, 2014 Thank you Keith; nice to have you follow along. To amplify the chat with Noeyedears about protecting finishes; here is a front fender. This was finish colored and cleared with polishing between coats. The final clear was left unpolished because of the need to store it until I reach the coachwork stage (forever the way I'm going). Instead of taping protection on, a week or two after finish, I wrapped each in a microfiber cloth, nested them together and stored them in a closet. Also leaves plenty of time to out-gas the lacquer. Just before final mounting, I'll polish the clear to glass. And yes Roy, I test-fit those pesky light stanchions as you command! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Squarehead Posted September 30, 2014 Share Posted September 30, 2014 Wow.....That would be a nice finish on a real motor, but on a model..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.P. Posted October 1, 2014 Share Posted October 1, 2014 Well I'm only on page 3 and your weathering (or as you put it "in-use'') is spot on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted October 1, 2014 Author Share Posted October 1, 2014 Well I'm only on page 3 and your weathering (or as you put it "in-use'') is spot on. Glad to have you. It gets 'worse' as we go. Stay tuned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted October 3, 2014 Author Share Posted October 3, 2014 Half-way there... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roymattblack Posted October 3, 2014 Share Posted October 3, 2014 Looking really good here. Lots of 'not supplied' bits being added - but as we keep harping on about (probably beginning to bore others) that's what makes a Pocher such fun. Love the grubby look. Roy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mpfiend Posted October 3, 2014 Share Posted October 3, 2014 lovely detail work there codger. Keith. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted October 8, 2014 Author Share Posted October 8, 2014 After 112 hours... The complete firewall. Three control rods are rod stubs which will connect to the engine and radiator. They will get their complete rods when the firewall is finally placed for the coachwork. As will the coiled water temp sender, redone from my first attempt. Due to Pocher's placement of the ignition box and wire run, there is some variance from 1:1. Had I known earlier when I did the improved wire run, I would have gone just that bit further to get it right. Did the best I could-just got it 'representative': 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mpfiend Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 Very impressive work. Keith. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
infofrog Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 Looking great .. What paint are you using ? Great finish Rick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted October 8, 2014 Author Share Posted October 8, 2014 (edited) Thanks guys. Paint is all lacquer; Duplicolor (automotive touch-up) primer, Toreador Red, Krylon 'Sweat Cream' (yellow) all under Duplicolor clear. EDIT: To friend 'Noeyedears'; no print through of the bandages it sat under while work progressed. Pictures are poor but the paint emerged unscathed and perfect. Edited October 8, 2014 by Codger 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roymattblack Posted October 9, 2014 Share Posted October 9, 2014 Yet more lovely 'old' detail here. A master-class in weathering. Are you going to give it a 'worn' interior? Roy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elderly Posted October 9, 2014 Share Posted October 9, 2014 (edited) Codger - In my vernacular that's 'spiffing', in your vernacular I think I can apply the term 'baller status' 😀. Edited October 9, 2014 by elderly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted October 9, 2014 Author Share Posted October 9, 2014 Yet more lovely 'old' detail here. A master-class in weathering. Are you going to give it a 'worn' interior? Roy. I'm wrestling with that Roy but at this stage, 'not so much', I'm thinking some creases in the cushions and possibly some tone around the edges-sat on but not trod on. The wood will be pretty nice in keeping with the condition 1 exterior finishes. The controls too. But no cracks in the fabric with stuffing coming out! Elderly, in both our languages-thank you... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elderly Posted October 9, 2014 Share Posted October 9, 2014 (edited) I'm thinking some creases in the cushions and possibly some tone around the edges-sat on but not trod on. ..If it's like my Muletto, there are creases in the plastic (mine are still base colour/colour white), are you going to overlay the seats in some kind of very fine leather or ....................?How can I bl00dy well make a joke about the American spelling of c o l or, when the spelling auto corrects itself? 😩 Edited October 9, 2014 by elderly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted October 9, 2014 Author Share Posted October 9, 2014 If it's like my Muletto, there are creases in the plastic (mine are still base colour/colour white), are you going to overlay the seats in some kind of very fine leather or ....................? How can I bl00dy well make a joke about the American spelling of c o l or, when the spelling auto corrects itself? 😩 :D Yes the software robot thinks I'm writing a bad word when I type c-o-l-o-r. But we all get the idea. Try as I'm might I can't lock in the planning of the upholstery. I think my default setting will be leather but I do not want the conventional Pocher tuck and roll look. So I'm pretty sure I'll make my own cushions (and seat frames in front) based on restored 1:1 cars I've studied. Actually the piping and its fastening has me worried. Better news is I have the carpet. A rich wine-coloUred (OK software??) low nap from doll-house supply-very elegant and subtle. And a huge part of the puzzle, I've just put in place - the top fabric. The look I'm after comes from gabardine, also a warm, nicely textured, deep shade that is different than the carpet and paint but they all play well together. I've decided at this stage to 'lock-in' the engine to chassis, protect it and build around it-meaning fit the interior and coachwork (ugh)). Finish on the exterior will have to wait to spring now-too cool / damp for painting. So I'll finally connect the (filthy) exhaust and some linkages now. Then I think I'll go back and forth between the interior and coach modifications, because as Roy said, you need to modulate the intensity of the work you do on these. The engine and now the firewall were crusades. At least I'll be working on parts bigger than 1mm from here out. But I've never had more satisfaction in solving problems and pushing my 'envelope' in scale modeling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts