Codger Posted January 2, 2017 Author Share Posted January 2, 2017 A stunning combination of comments, totally beyond my worth. But vastly appreciated to be thought of so kindly. Yes I do Sam and I was thrilled for 3 decades to build and flog just one of his creations in replica form. I never wanted to go to the 'next one'. The modern sport and race cars of each era came and went but did not deter my love affair with my blunderbuss. Indeed, portending things to come, I only had to part with it due to failing vision. That may be how my Pocher adventures end as well. So I tell you honestly, there might not be a 'next one' in scale for me. Looking in the mirror each morning tells me that not-pretty sight is a sign... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Squarehead Posted January 2, 2017 Share Posted January 2, 2017 Never say never Mr.C. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharknose156 Posted January 2, 2017 Share Posted January 2, 2017 Well my answer; with due respect quoting our mutual "friend" ; "I'm not going to take this defeatist attitude and listen to all this c... any more from all these people who have nothing except doomsday to predict". 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted January 2, 2017 Author Share Posted January 2, 2017 Securing one's nuts... Ahem. Actually installing them in the first place. WARNING - a bit more Pocher bashing coming. Attaching the previously seen front wings, reminded me of a needed fix. Although when complete one need not remove and replace the front wings at all - unless damage should occur. However getting them to stay solidly in place by Pocher's method just doesn't happen. These giant, heavy, sailboat fenders are held by one 2mm nut in front and one teensy screw in back - both on the side of fender. This makes it like a child's wiggly tooth about to fall out. A method learned from Dave Cox is to install two screws into the TOP of the fender apron to augment the side attachments. MUCH better. Using a 00-90 bolt (.045" in diameter) so as to keep the bolt head unobtrusive, also means tapping into the frame rail's plastic and securing the bolt. But since the fenders have to go off and on several times while making and fitting hood panels, that is not an entirely secure idea. The answer is nuts - blind nuts. The method is the same as recommended by Paul Koo to attach regular Pocher screws into too-small holes of plastic; melt them into place. Seen here is a 00-90 and nut and the correct location as drilled into the fender apron. Simply get out your smallish soldering iron, partially install the bolt / nut into a predrilled hole and GENTLY press down the bolt head. Let the heat do the work and keep steady. Stop when the nut top is flush with the frame rail. When cool, unscrew the bolt, (bolts are better than screws because the hex head is much easier to get good contact with) then trim carefully the little mound of displaced plastic so as to have a flush mounting surface. These pics tell the story. I have also used this technique on vertical surfaces to secure the rear fenders into the trunk walls. Well-worth a bit of extra time for secure and removable parts. 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjfk2002 Posted January 3, 2017 Share Posted January 3, 2017 Thanks for illustrating the technique. What size drill did you use to create the hole for the nut? I assume it is slightly smaller so the nut melts in and is locked in place. Your build has provided a treasure trove of engineering techniques as you solve all these issues. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted January 3, 2017 Author Share Posted January 3, 2017 10 minutes ago, rjfk2002 said: Thanks for illustrating the technique. What size drill did you use to create the hole for the nut? I assume it is slightly smaller so the nut melts in and is locked in place. Your build has provided a treasure trove of engineering techniques as you solve all these issues. #56 - .0465". That's the size for the bolt diameter. The hot nut makes its own nest in there. Just go slowly and lightly; you don't want to go through completely. Use tweezers to hold the bolt vertical if you need to. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silver911 Posted January 3, 2017 Share Posted January 3, 2017 Informative and logical description of the solution to a problem that would catch many out.....nice one Mr C Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noeyedears Posted January 7, 2017 Share Posted January 7, 2017 nice job on the nuts, great idea. they look completely in-keeping with the rest of the model too. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pouln Posted January 9, 2017 Share Posted January 9, 2017 Indeed something to put in the stack of great solutions. Thanks for sharing this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted January 12, 2017 Author Share Posted January 12, 2017 A very deep rabbit hole... I have screwed up the courage and decided it's time. With the main bits finalized including the front fenders and body, I decided to break from the tiny (but fun) details and plunge into the four hood panels. But nothing comes easily for me. Because of the body set-back and lowering, the kit hood top panels are now 2.5mm too short. So to use them would require adding styrene and filling seams. Not what I wanted for the most large and visible area of paint. So a dip into fabricating my own. After making 3 different panels in styrene with unsatisfactory results, I made 4 more panels but of .015 aluminum. (Too !) easy to shape but with a lovely surface, it seems the best route. Here is a tease of work in progress which may or may not survive the whole process. I first made a crude but accurate jig of the grille shell contour and the cowl curvature. The grille is difficult because of the 'hip roof' center of the distinctive Rolls grille. It's easy to get a kink in aluminum there. The body cowl is difficult because the curves run side-to-side as well as fore and aft. All this so as not to scuff paint on the cowl end with endless trial fits. I have now gotten the feel for the panel curves which are quite subtle and tricky. That cardboard tube makes a good rolling form. No English wheel here in the shop! I'm not 100% there yet but they sit rather well just now. Don't make judgements just yet - they are just placed for these shots. Stiffeners and shims in some areas for the sides and front / rear curves will be added on the undersides. The center hinge is in the correct place and is removable; it will be bolted to each finished panel. And NO, it will not be a natural metal finish even though I like those; it would just disrupt the color work already in place. More if luck allows me to get this to work: 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larchiefeng Posted January 13, 2017 Share Posted January 13, 2017 On the plus side we know where there's plenty of aluminum sheet in case of mistakes. Are you going to make the side panels with louvers too? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted January 13, 2017 Author Share Posted January 13, 2017 1 minute ago, larchiefeng said: On the plus side we know where there's plenty of aluminum sheet in case of mistakes. Are you going to make the side panels with louvers too? WE don't make no stinkin' mistakes...we just make them over and over until close to right. No to the side panels. I don't like the look of a rectangular opening in ally with plastic louvers inside; they don't look stamped. And I'm sure not Thierry, & friends able to make my own tin louvers. Will use the kit panels sectioned to even the louvers with the cowl louvers and add the needed length... Sure would like to see a near-finished shiny black Benz in here............... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larchiefeng Posted January 13, 2017 Share Posted January 13, 2017 Yeah, yeah, yeah, I'm getting there a little bit at a time. I'm close to finishing the 935 and then I'll finish the Mercedes. I spent 4-5 hours outside today cleaning up the 16" of snow we got last night and today and I will have more tomorrow. It's stupid stuff like that, that keeps getting in the way. w Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roymattblack Posted January 13, 2017 Share Posted January 13, 2017 Ingenious work as always Mr C. It will look amazing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pouln Posted January 13, 2017 Share Posted January 13, 2017 This one will not be easy, having both sides changing from straight folds at the radiator side to the shallow curve at the cowl end and keeping it mirror like on left and right panel. I'm sure you will get it done perfectly (just wondering how many panels you will make ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted January 13, 2017 Author Share Posted January 13, 2017 7 minutes ago, Pouln said: This one will not be easy, having both sides changing from straight folds at the radiator side to the shallow curve at the cowl end and keeping it mirror like on left and right panel. I'm sure you will get it done perfectly (just wondering how many panels you will make ) You probably lost count but 7 so far to get these two. These are promising. Also made 3 or 4 'file card' templates prior to that. I did manage to get that front-to-back 'twist' pretty well on both panels. The difficulty is at the 'dog house' at the grille. Straight across the top and straight down each side. The formers will make or break. At a great cost of hair follicles to be sure... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pouln Posted January 13, 2017 Share Posted January 13, 2017 Good to hear that you still have hair left at this stage... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted January 13, 2017 Author Share Posted January 13, 2017 15 minutes ago, Pouln said: Good to hear that you still have hair left at this stage... Yes, I store it in my tub drain... 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandy Posted January 15, 2017 Share Posted January 15, 2017 (edited) I like the thought process behind those bonnet panels...I'm tempted to try the same thing on the Bentley when I get to that stage...just to save all the faffing about with thinning the kit parts.. Ian Edited January 15, 2017 by limeypilot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted January 15, 2017 Author Share Posted January 15, 2017 13 hours ago, limeypilot said: I like the thought process behind those bonnet panels...I'm tempted to try the same thing on the Bentley when I get to that stage...just to save all the faffing about with thinning the kit parts.. Ian That's probably a tougher go than mine, what with all the openings in the panels Ian. All I can say is to experiment with varying thicknesses and make lots of file card templates. A slightly different type of 'faffing'... Surely, it's a time-eater... C Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silver911 Posted January 15, 2017 Share Posted January 15, 2017 53 minutes ago, Codger said: That's probably a tougher go than mine, what with all the openings in the panels Ian. All I can say is to experiment with varying thicknesses and make lots of file card templates. A slightly different type of 'faffing'... Surely, it's a time-eater... C Wise words Mr C....but a challenge accepted....is a problem conquered.....well....on the third attempt eh! Ron 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted January 20, 2017 Author Share Posted January 20, 2017 A significant step... While waiting for the etching primer for the hoods to arrive, I decided it was time. Partial final assembly where no more work need be done. I had decided NOT to secure the bolts, studs and nuts with either CA or thread locker. It turns out I took apart and reassembled many times the trunk, fenders and body on chassis. This to make new parts I wasn't satisfied with or improve the fit and locations of some. Good thing because I found plenty to improve. Now I have very good alignment of all the major elements. Chief among the changes was this inner fender panel. If you don't make these, you see the side of the rear seat past the tire. This one needed tweeking so I just made another. Me happy now. Everything back here is final (but removable if needed) and the bolts, studs and blind nuts will only allow that. The Pocher screws would be long gone by now. The trunk lid and front seats are easily removable as is the spare tire. The steering wheel can also be removed for 'service'. I am doing a visual test on the running boards with black-grained strips between the chrome spears on one side to see which looks best. 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silver911 Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 An absolute master class in the art of 'Pocher' Mr C.....each update is a lesson in craftsmanship, dedication and perseverance. I for one have learned so very much from this build, and am using the inspiration gained, to raise my own game to a much needed and desired, higher level. Much respect Ron 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pouln Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 Chas, wonderful. I like the running boards better in the naked. The black strips do not add anything for me. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harveyb258 Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 Superb!!! Cheers, H Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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