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A BIG Rolls Royce


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Catching up...

A brief tip about Pochers-not everything fits together where they locate certain parts. :banghead:

I found it's best to relieve the interference points between two parts so they 'mesh' together. Chamfer or grind a bit on the backsides (not seen) of parts and you can fix this annoying habit.

Case in point; the plug wire tube is jammed right against the 'starting carburetor' (a sort of primitive fuel injector) when parts are mounted in their correct locations. Here is the face of the tube and the back of the brass injector atop the intake, relieved by grinding a bit:

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Here is the lovely resin cast carburetor from Model Motorcars which comes in 6 parts and requires very little clean-up:

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And here's the result of these labors. Ignition on both sides done, Wires from MMC. Terminals made from ally tubing, 00-90 studs and nuts, brass and soldier plumbing and a ton of varied finishes / paints / graphite. The head is finally fastened to the block and everything is permanent except the oil filler and filter-I expect I'll need them off to install in the chassis. Tell me what you think:

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More in the next post..................................................

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The rest...

About 3/4 done with the engine. Of course, everything is slightly chipped, leaked-on or rusty and the effort is to keep the look consistent all around the engine's parts. I'll try the very complex carb and distributor linkage and levers, a minor oil line, the fan belt and a bit more finish. I strove for a close representation of detail not in the kit, culled from the assorted reference examples. All the cars had changes and improvements or custom parts added so a Pocher is never a model of one exact car. Did the best I could to get close to 'real' but not exact.

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You sure those aren't colour photos of the real engine? Amazing work. I built a Pocher Ferrari about 20 years ago for a friend- most difficult kit I eve assembled- wish I ad all the resoruces back then that we have now for building Pocher kits. Not sure it would be any easier or faster, but certainly would be less frustrating. I'm following along with great interest as you turn this kit into a jewel.

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I never heard of this type of model . Is this a special model kit ?

Rick

Special to fanatics like me...

Here is a good synopsis of the company and the cars:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pocher_Model_Cars

And here is a superb build by our own Roymattblack:

http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234947935-pocher-rolls-royce-phantom-torpedo/

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Special to fanatics like me...

Here is a good synopsis of the company and the cars:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pocher_Model_Cars

And here is a superb build by our own Roymattblack:

http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234947935-pocher-rolls-royce-phantom-torpedo/

Thats one nice kit ...

Rick

Also great job

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  • 2 weeks later...

To my RR friends,

I have been unable to continue my beloved project due to a severe bout of bronchitis with complications. I had completed the addition of linkage to the oil filter and an oil pressure line which I had photoed before the roof fell in. Hopeful to post that soon.

Anxious to return to work as soon as strength comes back.

Hope for your continued interest.

Codger

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Back from the sick...

Just prior with my 10 round bout, I had completed a small job-the oil filter and its linkage. The lever and links are scratch built and they will have an actuating rod which disappears through the fire wall when engine is installed. Also seen is the oil pressure gauge line, running from the oil valve aft, also going under the firewall:

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And finally, a proper fan belt. The kit supplied, 3 decade old rubber band is a poor joke. This is medical tape in 2 layers, stained with permanent marker. I rather like its texture. The pulleys have been augmented with thin solder in semi-circular shape to get the thin belt to sit correctly in their grooves. This finishes the engine front except for the radiator hose, when in the chassis

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So now, I'm calling this side of the engine 'done'-there's actually no more that was on the 1:1:

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The last of the craziness will be here on the (UK) drivers side. There's supposed to be carburetor and distributor linkage which scares me silly. Mainly because, A. The Haddock pictures are very difficult to decipher as to where they start and end and B. I've got a lot of completed parts in place they have to snake through and connect to. The sharp-eyed will note that the fuel line from the carb bowl to the starting 'injector' atop the intake has been removed-some linkage has to fit in proximity there. I may resort to 'gizmology' to represent a bit of it and may simply omit the worst of it.

The 'twitch factor' goes off the scale more easily for me now;

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There is no question that I've gone completely bonkers with this detail mania. I'm a bit unhappy with myself that I didn't just build a nice kit version. But I must admit that solving the challenges has been immensely rewarding, especially after making parts two or three times to get them right.

But I truly could have finished the whole car since I started in February and had a nice model. But I'm under the bus already and can't turn back.

I know I have the interior, coach fit and show quality paint yet to go and will be cursedly as anal with all that. I may sorely test the patience of you who have been following along but I hope not. Sometimes having too much patience is not a virtue. But I still have a vision for this thing.

Your thoughts and dialog on the matter welcomed.

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There is no question that I've gone completely bonkers with this detail mania. I'm a bit unhappy with myself that I didn't just build a nice kit version. But I must admit that solving the challenges has been immensely rewarding, especially after making parts two or three times to get them right.

But I truly could have finished the whole car since I started in February and had a nice model. But I'm under the bus already and can't turn back.

I know I have the interior, coach fit and show quality paint yet to go and will be cursedly as anal with all that. I may sorely test the patience of you who have been following along but I hope not. Sometimes having too much patience is not a virtue. But I still have a vision for this thing.

Your thoughts and dialog on the matter welcomed.

I am totally in awe of your skills. I had to double take the exhaust manifold, it just looks to real. How do you do it?!

I think that if you have the ability to create something as special as this then go for it, don't just do a nice kit version, you would forever look at it and think you could have done it so much better. Leave the nice kit versions to us lesser mortals.

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You gents are most kind.

Tom I appreciate your comments-not only for the praise, but the dialog as well. But please do not elevate me to some higher level of mortal. There are any number of builders here whose work should not appear in the same place as mine. They are the guys I look up to-guys that get each meticulous part and method perfect -the first time-without the 'do and re-do' that I'm cursed with. But in this labor of love, I'm overspent with patience. Less talent = more patience. :banghead:

I am just now working through the distributor and carb linkage which will be the last (and toughest) of the engine work. Then onto the firewall detailing and engine to chassis fitment. Will post that soon.

I hope some of you are patient enough to slog along this journey with me.

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Dirty little secrets...

Since I have no machine tools or the brains to use them, I've had to get inventive about how to make all the little levers, brackets and straps used on the ultra-detailed Haddock chassis models.

My go-to materials have been styrene sheet (.015 and .020 and easy to cut), 010 brass sheet (harder to cut but doable), .005 pie pan ally and .005 lead foil (very easy to cut) from wine bottles. Conventional rod and tubes of brass or ally are used for the longer rods and links for straightness and strength.

Secrets...

A. The very thin foil and ally I used for a lot of structural brackets-their natural finish is a nice detail. To make them stronger for the application, I cut a 'doubler' of .015 styrene to CA on the back side of the metal which stiffens it. When touched with a black marker, disappears leaving only the metal showing. Fools the eye. Just be neat and sparing with your gluing.

B. Medical tape makes a great fan belt in place of rubber bands. Coat with black acrylic or marker, double on itself, cut width (both edges) and CA in place. Then trim length.

C. Levers are mostly made from the styrene sheet, easily shaped accurately with 220 grit, drilled for the proper needed holes and CA'd in place. then an overall coat of black or touch of silver or gold Rub n' Buff gives the needed finish. Very strong and indistinguishable from metal.

D. Straight pins (.025 OD) are excellent for ultra small (and scale) rod links for short runs. Depending on what you have, anneal them for ease of bending but try a bend first-you may not need to.

If you guys have any dirty little secrets too, I'd love to see 'em. Post 'em right here..

:mental:

EDIT- Forgot to mention another large part of the detail; solder. I have 5 different OD's from .032 to .093. I use them all for the fine oil plumbing, making O-ring bases on tubes and sometimes (flattened and drilled) as electrical terminal ends.

There-confession is good for the soul..............

Edited by Codger
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Another 'secret'...

Debonder really does work to loosen parts already fixed with CA.

I know because after having made much tiny linkage using (scratch-built) Heim joints (or ball ends or maybe 'rose joints-?-as you folks say) which is not 'correct', I removed it. I did so because I found a way to make very 'correct' looking link ends as used by RR. Just added several more hours to this tedious project... :wall:

A few drops of debonder, wicked onto the joints and left for a few minutes, allows prying apart with a well-placed knife edge or screwdriver. When the parts are free, clean-up with sanding stick or scraping allows the same area to be reused. Just dry off all the dedonder residue so fresh CA will adhere.

But maybe you all knew that already............... :doh:

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