Codger Posted December 16, 2015 Author Share Posted December 16, 2015 How many hours!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! hells bells you dont have time to be ill get well soon and crack on my friend I am not proud to admit that but offer it as evidence of how one of these can 'take you over'. Guilty as changed. I must say a heartfelt thanks to all of you kind friends - none of whom I've met! - for your warm wishes. Cut 'adrift' by illness, it is wonderful to find I'm still 'connected'. You are a special crew and I am privileged to share your acquaintance and fraternity. Many thanks, C 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickd Posted December 16, 2015 Share Posted December 16, 2015 Glad that you're on the mend Codger, although I don't know you from Adam I found myself at work the other day thinking of you and you're recent posts regarding your health, hopping that you would soon be feeling much better. So I am very pleased to read that you are making improvements in that department and getting back on your game. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larchiefeng Posted December 16, 2015 Share Posted December 16, 2015 Good to hear you're doing better, buddy! I'll know when you're good, when I start seeing new pictures. I couldn't even begin to count the hours on the Merc but, I know for me personally, I've spent at least twice as much time thinking about it as I've spent actually working on it. Knowing you, I suspect the same. So, the real amount of time spent on this Roller is probably more like 4,500 hours! Hang in there and we all look forward to your return to the bench, in the mean time you can continue logging hours of thought time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandy Posted December 16, 2015 Share Posted December 16, 2015 "better" news is moving in the right direction at least! Looking forward to the "good" news very soon....we'll still be here! Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted December 16, 2015 Author Share Posted December 16, 2015 (edited) Good to hear you're doing better, buddy! I'll know when you're good, when I start seeing new pictures. I couldn't even begin to count the hours on the Merc but, I know for me personally, I've spent at least twice as much time thinking about it as I've spent actually working on it. Knowing you, I suspect the same. So, the real amount of time spent on this Roller is probably more like 4,500 hours! Hang in there and we all look forward to your return to the bench, in the mean time you can continue logging hours of thought time. You're so right Wayne. I figure at least 1/3 more hours were planning, parts searching and designing how things would look and then assemble. Maybe more but I thankfully was not SO anal as to log that. The brainstorm for the color sweep alone really tacked-on time. To say nothing of the body and top cuts and chassis changes. The same 'mission-creep' you've had with your Benz. And then there's the cost factor. I have steadfastly ignored that on purpose. Again I'll say you guys are marvelous with your well wishes and thank you all. Edited December 16, 2015 by Codger 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted December 31, 2015 Author Share Posted December 31, 2015 A little rehab... Slowly over the last couple of days I got back to doing small things. Boy it feels great when working but I pay a price after... I started slowly with a masking project on the rear body work. No rush, so I took a day for that. As the temps warmed to the 50F, I shot two build primer coats and one mist guide coat in black then an overnight dry. This in an effort to perfect the sweep panels and get them flat. The roof will remain masked so that the fabric covering bonds to raw plastic and not paint. That's quite a way off. Sanding tomorrow to get flat and find any low spots. Getting crazy, I tackled a nit pick job of perfecting the windshield opening to match the brass frame. I cut thin strips of .030, .020 and .005 styrene to build the curvature at the bottom center. A little sanding and back and forth fittings blends them into a gradual curve. The frame is a now a press fit snug but when painted, I will relieve the paint build-up and make it a light press fit. A smear of Bondo may be needed across the front edge - will see when I get some primer on that area. Sure feels good to get back to the bench... 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob G Posted December 31, 2015 Share Posted December 31, 2015 Good to see you back at it Mr C. Don't overdo it, we can wait. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larchiefeng Posted December 31, 2015 Share Posted December 31, 2015 A little shaky with the spray can there buddy, looks like a speckled egg! LOL! I know what you're doing with the paint, I wonder if anybody else does? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mpfiend Posted December 31, 2015 Share Posted December 31, 2015 Mr C, great to see you back at this. Best wishes for the New year. Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickd Posted December 31, 2015 Share Posted December 31, 2015 Nice to see you back at it take it easy and all the best for the new year Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted December 31, 2015 Author Share Posted December 31, 2015 Thank you all pals. Hope a little sanding today... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TGA Posted December 31, 2015 Share Posted December 31, 2015 Welcome back Codger 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted December 31, 2015 Author Share Posted December 31, 2015 Here's why... Here's my method to get really flat paint. It's a messy, time-consuming process. But to me, worth it. The primer (Duplicolor Perfect Match) and guide coat (any flat black) seen above is now being wet sanded to reveal the low spots. I set up near a sink filled with dish soap (a couple drops) and warm water. I soak 400 grit in that with a foam sanding block. I make these blocks from dense garage foam floor tiles, cut to the shapes I need to get into all tight places. This one is is narrow to fit into the space at the rear just above the wheel arch. I spray water onto the body surface and sand, frequently resoaking the paper to clean it. Working carefully with medium pressure, you can see the black remains in the low spots. These spots are too shallow for putty so they require the build up of primer. Blow off any water in nooks and crannies with shop air and wipe the dry area of work with isopropyl before re-priming. When the black stops coming off, that's where you've cut enough primer to flatten quite a bit of the surface. The next step is a repeat of this process with 2 fairly good coats of prime (to fill those low spots as much as possible) and a spritz of flat black to find the remaining shallow areas. When all is well a final light coat of prime will be shot overall and sanded with 600 for the first color coats. So if you want concours paint on large surfaces this method works well for me. Just don't expect overnight results... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mpfiend Posted January 1, 2016 Share Posted January 1, 2016 Very nice explanation there Mr C, This is the same method I use for my bodywork prep. Keep up the good work. Happy New Year. Keith. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted January 2, 2016 Author Share Posted January 2, 2016 Small progress... Bondo and primer for a smooth area under the 'screen and on the cowl sides which meet the side cladding: No gaps and a light press fit: The third application of primer and guide on the rear quarters drying tonight for sanding tomorrow. Should be as good as I can get it then. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larchiefeng Posted January 2, 2016 Share Posted January 2, 2016 Interesting looking curvature at the bottom of the windshield, I didn't realize it had that in it, I thought it was more straight across. I assume that you were just trying to get the area directly around the frame done? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger FAS Posted January 2, 2016 Share Posted January 2, 2016 I hope you don't mind but I would like to use your build as a vision for the one I have just started, it's my first pocher ( and model for many years) and I will post pictures as l go. At the moment I have a problem I have built the gearbox up and hand painted it, it looks awful so need to find out if I can get the paint off and try again using my new Xmas present airbrush. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted January 2, 2016 Author Share Posted January 2, 2016 (edited) Interesting looking curvature at the bottom of the windshield, I didn't realize it had that in it, I thought it was more straight across. I assume that you were just trying to get the area directly around the frame done? You're right, it should be. But I found out I stink at bending annealed brass channel (this was 3rd and best attempt) and took the path of least resistance. The corners were far harder being near 90's. Those were kerfed with saw, bent (with 100 trial fits) and finally soldered smooth. Not for the faint of heart or untalented like me. EDIT: I also may have changed a bit from handling at the platers. Edited January 2, 2016 by Codger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted January 2, 2016 Author Share Posted January 2, 2016 I hope you don't mind but I would like to use your build as a vision for the one I have just started, it's my first pocher ( and model for many years) and I will post pictures as l go. At the moment I have a problem I have built the gearbox up and hand painted it, it looks awful so need to find out if I can get the paint off and try again using my new Xmas present airbrush. Roger, Happy to share my ideas for your build. Some simple advice; first get Paul Koo's build CD.: 1- You can strip paint by soaking in several fluids such as brake fluid and industrial cleaners like Castrol Super Clean. Scrub with toothbrush after long soak. 2-Accumulate more tools, glues and supplies than you'd ever dream you need. 3-Work in as large an area as you can with really good light. 4-In the early stages be far more concerned with fit and NOT with paint finish. Test fit EVERYTHING and determine where and what fasteners to use. Like me, you will make many to improve the Pocher ones. 5- Scrutinize every major part for warps - there will be at least some. 6-Refer to my build as needed and browse the other Pocher builds here; all the techniques and ideas are a great help. 7-Ask any questions and I'd be glad to help. 8-PATIENCE. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larchiefeng Posted January 2, 2016 Share Posted January 2, 2016 Roger, ditto what he said. Think about it three times, measure twice and cut once. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger FAS Posted January 3, 2016 Share Posted January 3, 2016 ThanksGuys for the advice and support, I will start by stripping the paint off the gearbox and practice with the airbrush. Will get the pictures of the finished item on when it is done. I'm not going to rush it, just enjoy myself and aim for the best I can do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gbondoni Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 Spent a good couple of hours reading this one - the amount of work to get one of these right is amazing. I've been looking at large-scale kits much more closely lately, though I may try 1/12 before diving into anything like this! Will be following along! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted January 9, 2016 Author Share Posted January 9, 2016 Spent a good couple of hours reading this one - the amount of work to get one of these right is amazing. I've been looking at large-scale kits much more closely lately, though I may try 1/12 before diving into anything like this! Will be following along! Glad to have you along. You may find 1/8 scale easier than 1/12 my friend. Just have to be fearless with a Pocher. Plenty of expert help here when you start one. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gbondoni Posted January 9, 2016 Share Posted January 9, 2016 Well, I currently build 1/24, so my thinking was to split the difference first, to see how it feels! The temptation to do 1/8 is there, though, no question. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted January 9, 2016 Author Share Posted January 9, 2016 Resolving problems / making better progress... Seen here in an earlier view, the door is hung and alignment of all the elements is very good. Harder to see is that the front upper edge (where the latch will engage the cowl, has the door slightly ajar. This is due to the fact that the Sedanca cowl pinches inward quite a bit from the rear main body: After considerable hot water bending the door now meets the cowl perfectly at this area and will latch with no tension. The other door is seen with a clip to hold it closed - needs the heat treatment too. The door handles are fragile and would not last long otherwise. Note that the heat treatment has not loosened or damaged the beltline or sweep cladding: The cowl and windshield frame are now perfected and sanded to 600. The rocker panel will come shortly: If anyone doubts the effectiveness of the previously shown guide coating process, here is the proof. The main cabin area has been finished with the final prime coat after the low spots were filled by the process. It is flat and sanded to 600. Continuing work on the body will be done using thin soft foam as protection for the skin. A lot of work - yes - but for me the only way to concours paint using lacquer on large areas: Moving ahead, attention to the doors is next. Here, their edges have been shimmed with strip stock and blended to fit the openings. Paint clearance will further slim the gaps for a smooth look. The window frames and latch are next to be mounted and fiddled with: The near finished door skins. These will also get guide coats for priming but are smaller and stiffer than the main body area was so are mostly already very flat. These are sanded to 400 right now; they will be primed in gray upper (under the dark red) and white lower as discussed below: An important and exciting (for me) test of the color for the body sweep. Three spoons are tested. One has the regular gray primer, the second has no primer (the raw spoon is white plastic) and the third has white primer. All are shot with two coats of color (called Krylon Sweet Cream) and two coats of clear. Note that the first is a weak, diluted color because of the gray base, The second is a truer color but note that it's a dull finish. This is because the lacquer is too hot for the raw plastic and etches the surface. The last is the solution; white primer / color / clear. A hard high gloss. Final polishing will improve it further. All are shown resting on the unpolished but cleared trunk lid. Take the time to test your ideas to avoid disappointments. The two colors are just what I hoped they'd be. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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