Forlornhope Posted March 22, 2014 Share Posted March 22, 2014 Morning all, to continue on with my Aussie navy theme and to finish off my preWW1 RAN scene, I've finally got my hands on HP Models Town class light cruiser HMAS Sydney. I'm doing her sister Melbourne as I forgot to paint the white bands around the middle funnels that Sydney had, but I that as built they were identical anyway.......hopefully. For the PE extras I'm using WEMs HMS Chester set plus generic handrails plus support frames from the WEM Sussex set for the small tower behind the funnels. Chuck in some brass rod for masts and lets see what happens Yes the funnels are in the wrong position in the above one but nothings glued yet . I'm not really making any mods to the kit, I've cut away some of the sidewalls around the bridge and the rear structure they'll get replaced with pe rails with white glue for canvas covers. So all a bit of fun and I'mm off to play abit more. Thanks for looking and more to come soon Cheers Callum 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gisbod Posted March 22, 2014 Share Posted March 22, 2014 Looks great Callum! What is the base you've photographed it on? Guy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abat Posted March 22, 2014 Share Posted March 22, 2014 Very interesting. I'll be watching this one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
foxy Posted March 22, 2014 Share Posted March 22, 2014 G,Day. Looking good Callum. As WW1 is big news this year, you have got onto a flying start. Cheers foxy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forlornhope Posted March 23, 2014 Author Share Posted March 23, 2014 Cheers fella's , @Guy , the base is a Trumpeter perspex display case. I don't know I will be using it as it maybe a bit small for 3 ships, but if its not used for this, my Warspite will get it. I've finally found a pic that shows just how the bridge is supposed to be supported above the deck. I knew before I started that the kit was improvised in this area in order to support the bridge with out PE. I just hadn't been able to find a clear pic on how it was supposed to look until last night, just after I had finished making it. I'm not changing it though, I'll just make a mess of the PE supports and I have'nt got any more that hieght. (The above image is from the State Library of Victoria website, There was a note attached about misuse but I use it here as a comparrison between the ship and the model. http://www.slv.vic.gov.au/ ) You can see the forward mast goes into the deck, where the kit has it going into the rear of the bridge structure as in the pic of the instructions in the first post. But as I said, I'll leave it alone. I am going to pull the funnels off and clean them up some more plus I'll replace the steam pipes as well as the modled on ones didn't do the casting process so well. Got some touchups with the paint work, but I'm really happy with how the handrails around the bridge have come up with woodglue for the canvas covers. But anyway, thanks for the interest and more to come soon Cheers Callum Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 Looking Good Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray S Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 Hi Callum, looking good already! Question, when you used wood glue over the etch railings for the canvas covers, did you thin the glue at all or use it 'neat'? I may need to use the technique for my WW1 HMS Gloucester soon so any tips would be useful. Look forward to seeing this progress, All the best, Ray Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted March 24, 2014 Share Posted March 24, 2014 Great start! Martin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forlornhope Posted March 24, 2014 Author Share Posted March 24, 2014 Thanks guys, Ray I've thinned the woodglue down or otherwise it pools at the bottom of the railing if its too thick. I've also been using acryllic gel medium to glue the resin parts together as I'm finding it gives a btter hold the wood glue but still gives you plenty of time to position the part properly unlike using super glue. Dunno if thats useful. Within an hour of posting last night, saying I wasn't going to worry about the bridge, it got to me so I've pulled the bridge structure and I'll get it looking more accurate. more on that soon Cheers Callum I'll add a pic of how the bridge looks now after taking a saw to it, so much for the handrails. Much happier with it now, just have to put everything back together 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nobby57 Posted March 25, 2014 Share Posted March 25, 2014 Arrghh! Waterline!!! Your going to hate me for this Callum...pull it off again and soak the hull in warm to hot water up to about the uppermost extent of the 'armoured belt' for at least ten minutes, then place it flat on a piece of suitably Australian sun-warmed glass, then push down both stern and bow (Bow curvature the worst) and let cool until that moulding is less bowed...but don't hog it...that's what the glass is for. Sorry mate, but if you do this, then use the flattened hull as the datum, everything else shouldn't prove 'baffling where fit is concerned; but, will give you a more accurate hull form. Just looked at R.A. Burt's 'First World War Cruisers' and decided I had to post this comment...before you get too far. I sincerely hope this helps! Regards, Graham 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forlornhope Posted March 26, 2014 Author Share Posted March 26, 2014 Hi Graham, its not that the hull is warped what you see is my handywork with sandpaper I just a gave it a bit more of a sand behind the bow to try and level it out a bit better and I have an evil plan to hide the gap at the bow with a bow wave when its attached to a base. So if you could ignore the waterline for the rest of the build, that would be cool Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nobby57 Posted March 27, 2014 Share Posted March 27, 2014 Hi Graham, its not that the hull is warped what you see is my handywork with sandpaper I just a gave it a bit more of a sand behind the bow to try and level it out a bit better and I have an evil plan to hide the gap at the bow with a bow wave when its attached to a base. So if you could ignore the waterline for the rest of the build, that would be cool Oops...sorry Callum; ah well as you say a bow wave etc. I just thought from the photos that the problem with the upperworks was due to a warped hull. Trust me to open my big mouth! :-( All the best anyway...a favourite topic for me...but if she's going anywhere in your harbour, she'd better be heading out to sea with tons of smoke...that's going to be some bow wave! ;-) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beefy66 Posted March 27, 2014 Share Posted March 27, 2014 Bow wave or not love the job you have done with the decking is that painted or are you using decking sheet?? Regards Keith 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forlornhope Posted March 27, 2014 Author Share Posted March 27, 2014 Thanks guys, She won't be going in the harbour scene Graham thats set in 1938, this will be set out at sea in 1914 with the Battlecruiser Australia (which does have a banana shape to the hull ) and destroyer Yarra.So should be able to get a good bow wave happening. There wasn't a problem with the fit of the bridge, it was just the wrong shape, the kit has a small structure behind the bridge which the mast goes into, where as the real ship had no small structure and the mast went to the main deck. The pic below is the how the bridge looks OOB While the rest of the pics are how it looks now that I've fixed things up. @Kieth, the deck is painted but I've used the colour of the resin to cheat. I just gave the deck a wash of black paint thinned with dishwashing liquid and water, then I gave it a couple of coats of Citadel's Seraphin Sepia Shade, which is basically an ink. Then I gave the entire hull a coat of Matt to act as a primer for the grey paint Thanks for looking and more to come soon Cheers Callum 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graeme H Posted March 28, 2014 Share Posted March 28, 2014 Your little ships really are terrific Callum, this is going to be another beauty love following your WIP's 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forlornhope Posted March 28, 2014 Author Share Posted March 28, 2014 Thanks mate, much appreciated Well heres a little more with the first mast made and in place Can't believe I used an upsidedown carly float for the roof of the spotting top hehe Time for some rigging next more soon Cheers Callum 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nobby57 Posted March 28, 2014 Share Posted March 28, 2014 Fantastic job your doing Callum. That photograph is a very good example of the bow wave on these cruisers, and that's a calm sea. The displacement astern is impressive too! Just received my Orange Hobby Hermes...I'm all a drool at the moment! ;-) And I came here to model aeroplanes...it's all your fault :-) :-) :-) Regards, Graham 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forlornhope Posted March 29, 2014 Author Share Posted March 29, 2014 Thanks Graham, Those Orange Hobby kits are a bit of allright. I got the Spanish LHD Juan Carlos the other week, going to turn it into the new Aussie version. I don't know whats Hermes price was but I can't believe how cheap I got the LHD for. Exellent value for money. Started rigging Melbournes funnels last night, 3 hours to do 6 lines only 18 more to go. Cheers Callum 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nobby57 Posted March 29, 2014 Share Posted March 29, 2014 (edited) Fantastic Callum. I know there's not a lot to her but you've really cracked on with this build and she's looking very good. As to Orange Hobby kits...they aren't cheap, but I would say they are worth every penny and talking with John at British Forces Models, I now know that 'accuracy' is their goal. I'm dead chuffed with the quality. So you'll see a few of my builds in the months to come...Take care and happy modelling. Graham Edited March 29, 2014 by Nobby57 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
foxy Posted March 29, 2014 Share Posted March 29, 2014 Lovely bit of welding on the masts shipmate. That will Stop yur breaking them masts . Keep it coming, nice work. Cheers foxy 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
surfsup Posted March 30, 2014 Share Posted March 30, 2014 I love the work you are doing on our Country's little Fleet Callum and this one is no exception......Cheers Mark 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forlornhope Posted March 31, 2014 Author Share Posted March 31, 2014 Thanks for the further comments Gents, Frank I can't believe how solid the soldered joins are, you can bend the crap out of the brass rod but it pretty hard to break the join. Have to say this is my best mast yet hope the aft mast comes out as well. Graham, I'm looking forward to seeing Hermes mate, havn't seen a built version of the kit yet and thanks Mark. Its a shame there are not more of these built Aussie ships out there, I'm a bit suprised though that I'm the one doing them but its pretty awesome when you finish one and look at it and see that flag flying from the mast. But for now heres where I'm at with rigging Till next time thanks for looking Cheers Callum 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray S Posted March 31, 2014 Share Posted March 31, 2014 Hi Callum, I see you have your trained spiders at work again! Looking fab and you are making great progress. I like the reworking you did with the bridge area. Were the life-rings in the kit or were they aftermarket? Regards, Ray 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nobby57 Posted April 1, 2014 Share Posted April 1, 2014 (edited) That is nice! Love the rigging Callum...I take it for the foremast, you worked bottom up and from centre outward. If only I were so deft! One question however; what do you use for the aerial wires/signalling halyards/funnel stays? Edited April 1, 2014 by Nobby57 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forlornhope Posted April 2, 2014 Author Share Posted April 2, 2014 Thanks gents, @Ray the life rings are prepainted PE from MK 1 Design. The kit came with 2 molded on each side but Melbourne seems to have one each side so I cut them off when I changed the bridge. @Graham the funnel stays are stretched sprue while everything else is UNI-CAENUS thread. I've been trying to get the sprue stretched finer than the UC thread to do the signal hallads but its not working so I'll stick with the thread. and yeah I worked from center out and bottom up thanks for the comments fellas Cheers Callum 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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