Gumbie Air Services Posted April 12, 2014 Share Posted April 12, 2014 I've been wanting one of these for a while. Nice to see it has a reasonably decent interior. I heard somewhere that it was bare. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shermaniac Posted April 13, 2014 Share Posted April 13, 2014 This is coming along very nicely and is proving a most helpful tool so, Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foghorn Leghorn Posted April 15, 2014 Author Share Posted April 15, 2014 It was time to tackle the 2 sink holes in the roof vents (on the left hand side)My original idea was to cover them with stowage or camo nets but I thought I'd give it a go and try to repair them first as I had nothing to lose.1. Fill and sand the sinkholes on the solid parts of the vents with Revell Plasto2. Grind out the vents meshes with my trusty (and very old) Como mini drill.At this point some brass mesh would have come in handy but I don't like working with brass so I didn't have any brass mesh hanging around. Luckily I had some old Tamiya 1/35 mesh that looked about right.3. I softened up the recess with Mek Pak and pushed the mesh into it.4. Primer coat.I'm stunned that it worked out so well. In fact from a distance you wouldn't really notice the difference between the modded vents and the kit vents. On closer inspection the modded vents look better and you could argue that I should modify the other 2 vents to match. However, with a coat of dark green I doubt you'd notice the difference. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vally G Posted April 15, 2014 Share Posted April 15, 2014 Those look much better, Neil! Kind regards, Adam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foghorn Leghorn Posted April 22, 2014 Author Share Posted April 22, 2014 The time had come to add the little bits like handles, lights, etc. There's lots of them and you have to be careful taking them off the sprues due to the gate size, luckily I managed not to break any of them.Painting is not my favourite part and I'm not keen on airbrushes either (but it's the only way I can get the finish I want) so I've been hunting for the perfect british green that comes straight from the bottle and is hassle free.I've become a Vallejo fan so I tried Model Air 71012 Dark Green. Normaly I don't have problems thinning Vallejo with water but this time I did, so I added a drop of screenwash which helped the situation.Anyway, here's a collection of plastic bits painted. Notice at the bottom left that I forgot to spray the axles.... there's always something I forget to spray not matter how organised I try to be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foghorn Leghorn Posted May 3, 2014 Author Share Posted May 3, 2014 Due to life getting in the way, things have slowed a bit on the QLR.I glued the radio body to the chassis (you may remember I left off the axles which gave me a bit of leeway lining things up). There isn't much space between the wheel and the arch so you need to get it right otherwise it'll stand out like a sore thumb.There's about 2mm of play (front to back) so measure twice and glue once. You also need to dry fit the spare wheel rack at the same time as it sits flush to the radio body. Take your time and it all aligns correctly, which is impressive considering the chassis isn't one piece.Once that was done I could attach the storage boxes under the radio body. They don't have location guides so it's trial and error. As mentioned previously, the boxart doesn't show the same layout as the kit so you can't use that as a reference.I also added the the ladder and the rear step, once again the boxart has a completely different rear step design to the kit. It looks a bit precarious but the attachment points are quite clever, use some superglue and it'll be strong enough. The spare wheel was given a basic paint job for now. It sits in nicely in its cradle (dry fit at the moment) but it needs to be added before the cab goes on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shermaniac Posted May 3, 2014 Share Posted May 3, 2014 (edited) The time had come to add the little bits like handles, lights, etc. There's lots of them and you have to be careful taking them off the sprues due to the gate size, luckily I managed not to break any of them. Painting is not my favourite part and I'm not keen on airbrushes either (but it's the only way I can get the finish I want) so I've been hunting for the perfect british green that comes straight from the bottle and is hassle free. I've become a Vallejo fan so I tried Model Air 71012 Dark Green. Normaly I don't have problems thinning Vallejo with water but this time I did, so I added a drop of screenwash which helped the situation. Anyway, here's a collection of plastic bits painted. Notice at the bottom left that I forgot to spray the axles.... there's always something I forget to spray not matter how organised I try to be. The did the Vallejo British Olive WWII mix for Mike Starmer 2 or 3 years ago and it is: Vallejo Model Color 70.888 Olive Grey (92) 70.924 Russian Uniform WWII (94) in a 50/50 mix it's a near perfect match for SCC15 Because I do a lot of Allied Armour I just mix a bottle of each together - it's easier! And I get 4-6 tanks out of it for my trouble. Model Color needs about 40% thinner by volume as well as a bit of Tapoline (Water) Edited May 3, 2014 by Shermaniac 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foghorn Leghorn Posted May 4, 2014 Author Share Posted May 4, 2014 Vallejo Model Color 70.888 Olive Grey (92) 70.924 Russian Uniform WWII (94) in a 50/50 mix it's a near perfect match for SCC15 Model Color needs about 40% thinner by volume as well as a bit of Tapoline (Water) Tapoline ... I like it I must admit I'm a 'if it looks right' person. The problem I have with dark greens (inc USA) is they always end up darker than I wanted, my Comet ended up the wrong colour, to my eyes at least. If I was a brave little bunny I'd lighten the colour I've already got but it's my beloved QLR so I'm not sure I want to experiment with it. To my mind, Russian Uniform WWII is about the colour I want to end up with but I also want to experiment with filters and oil dotting/blending so it's difficult figuring out the right shade for the base coat, I tried it with the Comet and got it wrong(ish). A bit more ruminating methinks... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shermaniac Posted May 4, 2014 Share Posted May 4, 2014 Tapoline ... I like it I must admit I'm a 'if it looks right' person. The problem I have with dark greens (inc USA) is they always end up darker than I wanted, my Comet ended up the wrong colour, to my eyes at least. If I was a brave little bunny I'd lighten the colour I've already got but it's my beloved QLR so I'm not sure I want to experiment with it. To my mind, Russian Uniform WWII is about the colour I want to end up with but I also want to experiment with filters and oil dotting/blending so it's difficult figuring out the right shade for the base coat, I tried it with the Comet and got it wrong(ish). A bit more ruminating methinks... Neil, I know what you mean. Tapoline - Mmmm Yeah, My Dad, nor departed, was of the Brycleam generation but he always ran his comb under the tap instead to tamp down his hair so - Tapoline! and it stuck!!! I always undercoat in a neutral colour like a light/medium grey (see the Tyres) then apply the top coat, comes out luvly! here's my Staghound III from a couple of years back as a guide. A Perfik match for SCC15 it is! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foghorn Leghorn Posted May 5, 2014 Author Share Posted May 5, 2014 here's my Staghound III from a couple of years back as a guide.A Perfik match for SCC15 it is! Hmm, gonna have to get me a bottle of 70.888 Olive Grey ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foghorn Leghorn Posted May 12, 2014 Author Share Posted May 12, 2014 I've been debating about the base colour, I wanted to break up the plain green finish with a bit of modulation but I'm not good enough so I stayed with Model Air 72012. It's roughly the shade I want the truck to end up in but whether I'll succeed (after the washes) is another matter. I also want to experiment with oil dottting but this is my beloved QLR (and I don't want to screw it up having got this far) so I may chicken out.So, the QLR got another coat of 72012 and a bit of detail painting, followed by my new best friend, Alclad Aqua Gloss, 3 coats of it to protect the paint from washes.The decals are great. They are very delicate, thin and stick well, the opacity is fantastic but they only need 3 seconds in water before they fold up on themselves, so be careful. A bit of Microsol was used and the carrier film disappeared, supa dupa.The kit has 2 sets of markings, a Polish unit with mickey mouse pattern and a Scots unit in plain green with a star on the roof. I always like to use Polish markings when I can (in tribute to their service in WWII) but I wanted a plain green finish. So ... I used some of the Polish markings but changed the lorry number. I also wanted a star on the roof, so it got one. You could argue that it's now a whiffer but hey, it's my kit and it's my choice and who's to say Polish QLRs were not all green at one time? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shermaniac Posted May 12, 2014 Share Posted May 12, 2014 That's a really crisp, clean finish Neil They would have at least 'started out' Green, then had the MM pattern added later as I haven't found a paint mix which does both at the same time unless you've spoken to that guy who sells the Tartan paint 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foghorn Leghorn Posted May 12, 2014 Author Share Posted May 12, 2014 They would have at least 'started out' Green That was the logic I was working on. In fact .... I could put a figure beside it holding a tin of black paint unless you've spoken to that guy who sells the Tartan paint I suspect that would be the same geezer who sells elbow grease Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shermaniac Posted May 12, 2014 Share Posted May 12, 2014 (edited) Yep, that's him. He currently has a special offer on a Round Tuit Really looking forwards to the closing stages of your build. Its coming to a classic end and will be a build you can be really proud of. Edited May 12, 2014 by Shermaniac Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foghorn Leghorn Posted May 21, 2014 Author Share Posted May 21, 2014 After a couple of washes (MIG neutral wash) and a dry brush (with enamels) here's where it stands. The washes helped to tone down the markings. I'll leave it to dry for a while before doing anything else. It probably looks the same as the previous pics but trust me, it looks different in real life, the surface details stand out nicely. Still got to do some cab interior work, axles, glazing and odds and sods but I need to figure out the best order to do them.Tyres. Hmm. It's been reported that the tyres are a post war pattern but I'm sticking with the kit options as I'm not comfortable shelling out more money on what is already (for me) an expensive kit. That means I'll need to flatspot the tyres if I'm not mounting it on dio base where I can sink the tyres into the ground.I've tried to alter the colour balance to reflect the real shade of green but I'm very hapy with the colour, Model Air 71012 seems to be be what I've been looking for. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foghorn Leghorn Posted June 3, 2014 Author Share Posted June 3, 2014 Not posted for a while, plenty done but there wasn't much to show for it.Axles and driveshafts on. Definitely leave the axles till the end, it allows you to line them up with the wheel arches. Unbelievably the truck sits square on all 4 hubs, which is amazing considering the problems I had building the chassis. Right result! Everything matt varnished (with Vallejo)The glazing's been added but it's so clear on the radio body it's hard to see. All the glazing fitted perfectly except for the windscreen, which may be due to the warped frame that I had. Also I had to be very careful removing the glazing from the sprue, due to the big gates.Tyres (brutally ) flat spotted and wheels painted. They may be the wrong pattern but they've got lovely detail.Problem 1 (which I've known for some time), the chassis is warped slightly (I suspect it's down to the moulding as some parts were warped) so the cab doesn't line up with the body, see lines:Red, where the cab meets the chassis (perfect fit)Green, top back of the cabBlue, radio body.It's not as bad as the pic suggests, due to the macro effect of the lens. I can either leave alone or prop up the chassis on the right hand side of the red line (as you look at it) to square it up with the radio body. As the cab is such a good fit, I can make a decision at the very end.Problem 2 (which I've only just discovered), there's no windscreen wipers in the kit. They're going to be tricky blighters to make, I'll have to delve into the spares box.I've only got one other decision to make, weathering. I'm tempted to leave it fairly clean (rather than screw up the nice finish I've got) but I'm not a fan of pristine clean either. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vally G Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 Still coming along nicely, Neil!Shame about the warping.I vote for light weathering. Kind regards,Adam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phildagreek Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 The tyres are super. The whole thing is super! You could have the appropriate front wheel on a rock or slightly higher ground to square things up, or some carefully placed scrim/cammo netting? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foghorn Leghorn Posted June 7, 2014 Author Share Posted June 7, 2014 (edited) I vote for light weathering. Yep, I'm with you on that one. If it doesn't look right I can always add a bit more weathering till it looks better. front wheel on a rock or slightly higher ground to square things up, or some carefully placed scrim/cammo netting? I like your thinking. Actually, gluing all the wheels on at the same time (so I can get the flat spots aligned) is going to be a challenge due to how the wheel attaches to the hub. If I can't line the wheels up properly then I'll have to make a diorama to hide all cock-ups Neil Edited June 7, 2014 by neilscrim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foghorn Leghorn Posted June 16, 2014 Author Share Posted June 16, 2014 The odds and sods were added to finish up, sump guard, cable spools (under the rear body), mirrors and wipers (the latter came from a 24th car, they're a bit heavy but they'll do until I find something else). The wheels were amazing, considering the chassis problems and the fact that I flatened the tyres, the truck sat absolutely square on the ground. That's not skill, that's just pure luck, but I ain't complaining I decided not to tinker with the sit of the cab, you don't really notice the lean to the right unless it's pointed out. The final job was light weathering, I misted on a light coat of Vallejo Khaki and then added pigments.More pics on RFI 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vally G Posted June 16, 2014 Share Posted June 16, 2014 That's excellent, Neil. Kind regards, Adam 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onurkafadar Posted June 16, 2014 Share Posted June 16, 2014 great stuff mate 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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