1/8 C Type Jaguar

[shood23]

I bet it is, with the amount that needs to be done and the fact most if not all of it is being done without instructions it must remind you of the poacher rolls alot

[hendie]

you should seriously consider offering this as a kit.

I must admit, from my limited experience, I do enjoy scratch building (in the true sense) more than kit bashing

[toms111s]

This is looking like its going to be quite something when its finished. The body looks fantastic, how do you begin to make the moulds?

[roymattblack]

Many thanks you guys.

The moulds were made in the old time-honoured tradition of shaping in wood, with good amounts of car filler etc.

Cross-section drawings were used to get datum points on card 'outside' templates in a series of 'sandwich' layers.

In other words, make templates of the car body, cut them out and use the pieces of card that is the outside of the card templates.

Use these templates to check the cross sections in both directions.

Small detail shapes are built up in filler, plastic strips etc and a final layer of filler is rubbed right down to get a smooth surface.

The a Silicon mould can be made and the body finally layed up in resin and mat.

Roy.

[roymattblack]

Just a small update......

I've posted a picture of the wood/filler buck, and a template in place to show how the master was made using genuine Jaguar plans scaled down to 1/8.
Once again, my thanks to my Jaguar-guru friend.

Being a bit sad, I couldn't resist twiddling with the spark plugs in the cockpit.
Decals were made and added but I still need to paint the brass nuts silver.

Also, after a wet-sanding session, another coat of green. It's definitely getting darker - just as it should be.

Roy.

[shood23]

Can I just ask is the paint done through an airbrush or out of a can

[roymattblack]

Can I just ask is the paint done through an airbrush or out of a can

The paint is straight out of a Halfords custom colour rattle can.

Lots of primer coats first, sanded right back almost to the bare shell, more primer, sanded, final primer then wet sanding with 1000 grit.

3-4 coats of green, wet sanded when dry, and 3 more coats today.

Hopefully, a polish back with T-Cut and then see how it looks.

Roy.

Edited March 26, 2014 by roymattblack

[shood23]

From the pics it looks as though the paint has gone on very well to me

[roymattblack]

Just a small amount done today.....

I test-fitted the interior and made some adjustments to the upper edge so it’s a nice neat fit inside the body.
While I was at it, I also trial-fitted the dash. All the gauges are home made, and the switches are actually the ends of bristles from a hair brush. The choke was made using the ‘root’ of a bristle and piece of small rubber wire sleeve.

So far so good, but I’m going to make a fire extinguisher for the ‘passenger’ side of the car to add a bit of interest. The cars never had them back in the ‘60’s, but they do now – so my car is the ’53 car, today.

Some time ago I bought a used Revell 1/8 E Type engine from Ebay, in readiness for either this car, or a D Type.
Had I seen the engine in more detail, I wouldn’t have bought it. It is without doubt the worst Glue-bomb I’ve ever seen.
After some not-so-careful cutting, I was left with the engine block – no cylinder head, no sump nothing else. The block is actually the only part I will use. The rest really is just rubbish.
An expensive two pieces of plastic, at £22 plus p/p. Oh well……

Roy.

Edited March 28, 2014 by roymattblack

[Pete in Lincs]

1/87 E Type engine

Roy, You may want to edit that to prevent mental anguish in Britmodeller land.

Made me wonder for a minute.

Love the dashboard. The whole thing is looking seriously good.

When are the builders coming to put up the display annex?

[roymattblack]

Edit made......

Mind you, before long I'll NEED an annexe.....

As great as 1/8 size cars are to build, I'll soon have a real problem for display. Currently I have 5 built, 3 Pocher's unstarted, an E Type roadster, the 'Big C', a D-Type in the planning stages and eventually I'd like to try a DBR1.

AAAARRRGGGHHH......

Roy.

[griffsrw]

this looks great, i admire your handywork. love the spark plugs !

[roymattblack]

A small update.....

I decided to add a fire extinguisher so after a bit of 'Googling', I had a rough idea.

The body is plastic tube, the ends were cast in resin in plasticine and the top parts were made from a biro 'click' insert, a 1/32 E Type front bumper, a washer, a few plasticard scraps and a 'bootlace ferrule' for the nozzle.

The support frame is wire and plasticard with rubber sleeve end tips.

I sourced a fire extinguisher label via Google images and printed a decal.

All done and installed - apologies for the naff quality images.

Roy.

Edited March 28, 2014 by roymattblack

[capri-schorsch]

Nice work on the fire extinguisher.

Great!

[BrianI]

A stunning build Roy!

[roymattblack]

My better half-to-be was out on her Hen night last night.... Don't ask.....

So I was up until about 1.30am and made use of the time - or so I thought ..........

I discovered that I had painted the dash incorrectly.
On one of the period b/w pictures of the car in the paddock (pits nowadays) it looks like the dash is all over black.
WRONG.
It was black on the instrument binnacle, but plain ally sheet either side.
Then I had a minor disaster. I tried to re-paint the dash in-situ…..
What a MESS!
The only solution was to remove my toggle switches and make a new left side panel.
I used thin ally sheet and in a strange turn of fate, it ended up looking better than before as originally, it was painted resin.
Now, it’s real ally. The rivets and switches were drilled and added and then the panel was glued over the old one.
Job done.

Next was to add the passenger seat.
On the C Type, the transmission tunnel isn’t central. It’s actually more into the passenger side than the driver’s.
This means that the passenger seat is actually narrower than the driver’s seat.
A second seat was made up without much bother and as before, was sprayed matt light green with a mist of Tamiya Smoke to tone it down and to highlight the textures. After that, it was buffed with a duster to make the seat and bolsters a bit shinier to simulate use.
Once in place, the interior is starting to look more interesting.
Being a bit ‘sad’ I sourced an early ‘50’s map of the Le Mans circuit, printed it on cream paper, folded it (as a map should be folded) and it will eventually sit on the passenger seat.
I still need a wooden heel rest for the left foot, and the three pedals.
And the steering wheel.

Then I really need to turn my attention to the front end…..

The first task was to BMF the firewall. A fiddly, time consuming job as there are a lot of separate panels and strengthening ribs to foil over. Once done though I was happy with the result as being Ally BMF, it looks right.

The 'grot' on the bodywork in the pics btw isn't in the paint, or a poor finish.

It's hundreds of finger marks and dust. Fortunately the paint finish is really nice, but being very dark and glossy, it attracts muck like nobody's....

Roy.

Edited March 29, 2014 by roymattblack

[roymattblack]

I've been beavering away at the front end.....

The next major job was to fabricate the front chassis/engine frame.
As the whole weight of the model which is already fairly substantial rests on the join between the body firewall and the frame, I knew it had to be made of metal.
This is a new area for me so it really was a case of learn as you go.

Whilst I was working on the frame I started adding some of the details to the firewall such as the relay boxes and remote starter.

I bought lengths of brass tube and box section of different sizes to match the plans and set to work.

Each piece was carefully measured and cut and then filed to the correct angle at the appropriate ends.
Now, the more hardened scratch builders among you may cringe here, but my soldering/brazing skills aren’t miniscule, they are non-existent.
The pieces were joined with Araldite. Having said that, one incorrectly measured part had to be removed and it was the Devil’s own job to get the join apart so I’m pretty happy with the integrity of the frame. One small bonus of using Araldite, was that the joins actually look like welds now that the frame is painted.
I made the frame separate from the car at this stage so that it will be easy and strong to join later on, but allow me to add the front suspension parts, brake pipes etc and engine without difficulty.
Once the major mechanicals are fitted, the frame can then be joined to the car.

The frame was sprayed aluminium and the brake reservoir was fabricated from tube and scrap parts, then added, as was the brake slave cylinder and first runs of brake pipes.

Back to the engine.

The transmission bell housing from the Revell kit was cut down to fit into my firewall aperture and then was joined to the rear of the engine block. This was all carefully measured just to make sure that the engine/transmission will fit once it’s all installed as there won’t actually be much in the way of gearbox etc in reality but as none of it is visible anyway, it won’t matter.

The Revell starter motor was modified to match the C Type one and was painted, foiled and fitted after locating holes for later wiring were drilled.
Similarly, the alternator was fettled before being added to the block.
The engine core plugs were gold BMF’d as they are quite prominent on the real engine.
The water pump was tweaked and added and that will just about be ‘it’ for the Revell parts.

A lot of twiddling and scratching needed now.

Roy.

Edited April 4, 2014 by roymattblack

[heloman1]

Nice bit of soldering work there Roy, mind you the scale must have helped. She's coming along nicely.

Colin

[roymattblack]

Just a very brief update....

I've printed my own decals for the dash, the engine details/plates etc, and the number roundels.

I must admit, the roundels had me a bit worried as the C Type has so many compound curves on it and the white circles are nearly 7cm across.

Also, being white over dark green, I decided to 'double layer' them with a plain white roundel first, and when it's dry, a second roundel with the number 18, will go over the top.

After a bit of panic when first applied - there were wrinkles everywhere, particularly the one on the nose - they actually settled down really well with just pressure from a folded kitchen towel.

I'm particularly pleased with the nose roundel, as on the real car the lower edge of the circle almost tucks under the chrome grille surround.

Nearly every model of the car you see has a gap here which is incorrect.

I'm hoping the second layer with the numbers goes on as easily.

BTW.... Any comments appreciated, particularly if you think there's something I'm missing or doesn't look right.

I'm by no means a 'rivet counter' but I'd like it to be reasonably correct and sometimes when you are working on something yourself, you miss obvious things other people notice......

Roy.

[roymattblack]

Not sure if there's much interest, but here's the 'top layer' decals added.

Bodywork needs a serious polish!

Roy.

[The Cameraman]

Plenty of interest here!

Lovely work.

Regards

Reggie

[triumphfan]

Really impressive Roy.

What is the grille going to be made out of ?

Watching with interest (read jealousy) by the way.....

Steve.

[hendie]

^^^ wot he said

[roymattblack]

Thanks you guys.

I'm approaching a few areas now where I don't really know how certain bits will be made - the grille being one of them.

I contemplated making a master from plasticard etc, cut, filed and glued strips.... then making a mould, and resin casting.

The completed item to be sprayed/BMF'd.....

I'm hoping my Jaguar guru/modelling friend can help here too.

Any ideas for details welcome.

Roy.

[Spookytooth]

Roy. What can I say, yet another masterclass in building.

Simon.