Soldering 1/700 masts

[Ray S]

Hello all. I have looked through the forum and I cannot find (does not mean it isn't there though!) any simple advice on soldering. I want to get to the next level in my shipbuilding and would like to have a better go at using brass rod/tubing for my masts. I have David Griffiths book and the latest Airfix Scale Modelling step-by-step guide No2 which go into it a bit but do any of you have any other suggestions? I am a complete greenhorn at this so any advice would be greatly appreciated! I have found a few sites when I googled Soldering but it all seemed too technical for me.

I have tried using metal tubing in the past and only CA'd the components which was fine for then but as I am trying to rig my ships more it may be too weak for that.

Moderators - I have put this here as it is only masts I suspect I will try to do, so it seemed appropriate to be in Maritime, but if it needs to be moved, please do so and accept my apologies!

All I need to do now is find my two references again! Yes, I did pop into Specsavers for an appointment this morning too...

All the best, Ray

[emlra]

Suggest you assemble parts separate from the model!

You don't want things to melt.

Keep brass clean, I use liquid flux (Baker's Fluid) and then Carr's Solder paint.

Brilliant stuff, basically finely ground solder in a flux solution.

Apply where you need the joint, heat metal (mast) with solder iron, wash off the surplus, (great for etched sheet doesn't block the detail as it stays liquid where it is not heated by the metal).

You can use a small crocodile clip between sections that you are soldering to act as a heat shunt.

Hope this helps

Rex

PS the solder paint is pricey but will last a lifetime!

Edited February 3, 2014 by emlra

[Ray S]

Hello Rex, thanks for the advice (spelt it right there - unlike in my tag in the heading!). I will be off to Maplins tomorrow to see what I can get.

All the best, Ray

[Mal]

I know some people use solder paint but I do not recommend it. The flux that acts as the carrier in the solder paint does not always get burnt off during the soldering process and a residue can remain inside the joint,if paint is then applied over the joint the flux may interact with the paint causing bubbling. Many years ago I used solder paint to build a LMS 3F,on this particular locomotive the flux attacked the paint at two joints, after a number of attempts to paint it (which involved stripping the model down to bare brass) I gave up and scrapped the body, I've heard of professional painters that will not take on a commission if the model is constructed with solder paint.

My own advice would be to tin the parts using a phosphoric acid based flux with a 145 solder This combination of flux and solder makes soldering very easy and controllable. The phosphoric acid fluxes are neutralised by water and will wash off under running water. Until you have used a phosphoric flux you don't know how easy soldering can be.

Do not under any circumstance try using a cored solder they are simply not suitable for modelling.

I would also steer clear of Bakers flux I've used it in the dim and distant past but it's not ideal for this type of work, a phosphoric acid flux is just so much better.

You can get these items from C & L Finescale or Eileen's Emporium

I understand fluxes like paint may require to be couriered

Apologies Rex if this is in part is going against your advice,

Malcolm

Edited February 3, 2014 by Mal

[Ray S]

Hello Rex and Malcolm, thank you both for your advice, it was really appreciated.

I ordered Malcolm's suggestions from Eileen's Emporium (they are only about 6 miles from where I live) on Tuesday and the courier arrived this morning with an incredibly well wrapped parcel for me. That was top notch service from EE I reckon, so I can highly recommend them based on this experience.

I am still going to try Rex's ideas too, in David Griffith's book he shows a picture of 'CARR'S RED LABEL FLUX' - so I have to admit to getting a bit confused with that and Rex's CARR'S SOLDER PAINT' - is it the same stuff?

The stuff I have got so far is

ANTEX 18W soldering iron and ST6 stand

Spare smaller tip

Phosphoric acid (9%) based flux

145 solder

Blackspur 60% tin, 40% lead solder

Ceramic tile

Blutack

Amazingly (or not), none of this had instructions!

With luck I will be able to let you know how I got on, I am going to try to do the flag masts fore and aft on my Ilustrious first I think.

Wish me luck!

Thanks again for the advice, all the best Ray

[Mal]

Hi Ray,

I see you've bought an Antax iron the 18w should be ideal for what you are doing, the bit design of the Antex irons are excellent.

I don't know if you noticed last night Paul Buzik posted a link to a video he had made on soldering, it's very good, well worth a watch

Link to post......

http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234954950-soldering-basics-videohere/

Malcolm