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Trumpeter 1:200 Missouri (Teak Deck/Pontos & Trumpeter aftermarket parts and PE)


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OFF TOPIC WARNING:

Did anyone watch Season 2 of "House of Cards" on Netflix?

Was it cool or disturbing that the lead actor, Kevin Spacey, played a nefarious politician whose hobby just happened to be scale modeling? building a Civil War diorama was his pastime.

Rick

Edited by rickbcolorado
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  • 3 weeks later...

Anyone heard when the new resin parts for Missouri are coming out? I had heard March, but I am not sure.....

It's tough to stay focused on modeling--the important stuff--when your day job keeps taking you out of town....but soon I'll be back and after it.

I promised some photo's too, so i will take and post them.....

Rick

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  • 3 weeks later...

Status Update:

After a fair amount of business travel, I have been able to put a few good build sessions together. Right now, I have finished all the 16-inch guns, made ten of the Mk 28 Mod 2 5"/38, and have many of the smaller guns built. Because I heard that Pontos is coming out with a set of the 40mm Bofors in fully molded resin form, I am waiting on that. So far so good on the PE related to all of this.

Help Needed:

The way that Pontos wants you to build rungs embedded into the side of a hull or gun is difficult for me. You use a PE template, drive some tiny holes, and put in your rung--different than gluing an entire ladder mechanism in PE, which is not too hard too pull off. How are you doing on this? For me, by the time I get all the holes drilled, one or two are invariably off a micron or so, so the entire set of rungs (which should look like an embedded ladder) looks like a drunken sailor installed them. Anyone having any luck with these fittings? I would hate to miss this (the Pontos pics on this are stunning), but my attempts on some of the guns are just not that good.

Trumpeter part M2 (the ropeline connector thingees--I am not a sailor :) ) is way too big for some of the fittings on the deck. I had to get the Dremel out and shave off the sides and the depth to fit in the pre-cut boxes in the deck (see pics). And because all of these are now metal, it has to be repainted when complete (trying to do as little on-deck painting as possible.

that being said, I am having fun. The Bofors enclosures are a test, lots of PE in three layers, three levels to put on, so they are taking a lot of time. I am trying to get all the parts for steps #9 #11, and #13 put together so I will have the major deck parts of the front end of Missouri done...then I will move to the back and do the same, then attach the superstructure parts. I am growing in my respect for all you guys who do this with regular perfection.

Here are a few pics to show where I am now....

DSCN0156_zps74c0bb1c.jpg

you can see the 16" in the background, and the 10 Mk28s. Trying to cut and trim all of one part, then store it under a cover until I need the parts.

DSCN0160_zps0c2d490d.jpg

Painting the front end of the deck. I have still not attached it yet, but that will come soon. Trying to glue down custom-built collars for the two guns sets I have built (not to mention the resin Bofors) already so that they will rotate (surprised that Trumpeter did not think of this).

Question: was there a standard way that the guns faced when not in combat? I am looking primarily for the Bofors and the MK38s....

DSCN0165_zps75b54fb2.jpg

it's only when you put some paint on things that you see what a lousy job of sanding some of the parts you've done. For me, the larger scale makes it easier to work with, but the little trim jobs that don't get done are more easily noticeable. Back to the xacto knife or the sander!

DSCN0167_zpsf3fa63dc.jpg

this gives you a sense of some of the trim work that you have to do even after you have assembled the PE. The top part is raw assembled PE, and the bottom (the one that fits) has been sanded on 5 sides. Good to have a Dremel for this kind of careful work. And so I learned that most of these have to be sized and repainted again.

Anyway, this part of the build is a bit of a slog, but I am hanging in there. I appreciate all the input, feedback, and reaction. I would love to hear from any of you who are building your 1:200 Missouri, too....I did get to put the movie "Battleship" on my PVR to get a sense of how some of the guns look. It's a current configuration, though, but it still looks pretty awesome.

Rick

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  • 1 month later...

Great work so far.... will keep looking on it......... great work !!!

Will have a look here as mine is also waiting :)

Edited by elmarriachi
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Quiet the inspiring build. I am still in the very early stages of my attempt. It's been a while since you posted anything. How's the progress?

I received the Bofors from Veteran, and am working out the build and the configuration for the date (1945 Tokyo Bay/surrender scene), so I will not build them with all the bottom armor. Photos soon. I got some solid brass props that look much better, too...

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  • 2 months later...

Rick- I see that your progress includes the foredeck...now, you're not going to use the stock anchor chain I hope? I just happen to know where one can find proper scale stud-link anchor chain in the correct size, even with special end links and swivel, designed just for the 1:200 Iowa class... AND, the ever so pesky "pelican hook" chain stoppers. See it discussed in this long-winded thread:

http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=155447

As prominent as the anchor chain is on the foredecks of these ships, I think one should strive to get it right! (We are talking about 'E', below, which is 13.5 links per inch).

And let's not forget, Missouri was anchored in about 16 fathoms in Tokyo Bay, so about 7 or 8 15 fathom shots of chain should be out, with the appropriate joiner color coding appearing somewhere.

ebay1.jpg?w=500&h=414

Edited by Pat Matthews
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  • 7 months later...
  • 2 months later...

At one time, I thought Rick mentioned poor health. I hope he's OK.

I'm just starting the 1/200 Missouri with Pontos upgrade, and blue deck. I'm wondering if the blue deck was a poor choice, it's like NAVY blue.

I saw a comment about viewing the instructions at the Pontos site. I tried and trick, and it worked. Download the picture, and it opens in Acrobat, but with no options. Do a "save as" like "Page 1 MO" to a folder you create for this project. Then go to that folder, and open the file from there. Now you get all the options, and you can blow it up to as big as you like 400% makes a huge difference.

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  • 2 weeks later...

At one time, I thought Rick mentioned poor health. I hope he's OK.

I'm just starting the 1/200 Missouri with Pontos upgrade, and blue deck. I'm wondering if the blue deck was a poor choice, it's like NAVY blue.

I saw a comment about viewing the instructions at the Pontos site. I tried and trick, and it worked. Download the picture, and it opens in Acrobat, but with no options. Do a "save as" like "Page 1 MO" to a folder you create for this project. Then go to that folder, and open the file from there. Now you get all the options, and you can blow it up to as big as you like 400% makes a huge difference.

That's the colour it was before the Pacific sun faded it all to hell...

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  • 10 months later...

Hi Lloyd.

Get your self up to Photobucket.

Add your pictures there and you can download to this and other forums with your pictures.

I have been using this method for years.

If you do manage to get some piccs then there for the finished thread.

Nice work Colorado mate.

Hope this helps.

foxy :coolio:

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