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Revell 1:25 Jaguar E-Type.


BrianI

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My current build project is a Revell 1:25 Jaguar E-type (07291)

Obligatory sprue shot:

10327036015_622a5fbf53_o.jpg

Over the past week or so, popped the engine together, and gave it a quick coat of paint or two:

10580504625_fb5eda2d60_o.jpg

This evenings work involved fettling a wee set of ignition leads out of 0.5mm copper cable, and some left over Tamiya thin rubber tubing:

10580784403_e8fdf2694d_o.jpg

Enough for this evening! Eyes have gone all funny!

Still to black sharpie the ignition leads, and drill out the moulded spark plugs on the engine block to fit my own leads. And will also need to fettle together a distributor! Should look good with this extra engine detail! :yahoo:

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I keep looking at this one at the local toy shop, but keep putting it back on the shelf as it's 1/25th... Does that really make a difference when in the display cabinet with my other 1/24th cars?

Great work on the engine though and final finish? British Racing Green? ;)

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what do you think of the kit ?

Quite a bit of flash on the parts which need a bit of work to tidy up, e.g. the engine:

10327373245_fcd0dd700e_o.jpg

I keep looking at this one at the local toy shop, but keep putting it back on the shelf as it's 1/25th... Does that really make a difference when in the display cabinet with my other 1/24th cars?

Great work on the engine though and final finish? British Racing Green? ;)

My other kits are either 1/24, or 1/12 (Tamiya Yamaha YZF R1). Not too worried about the jag being 1/25 compared to the others. Should look a nice kit once it's built.

As to the colour, I'm currently planning on a nice gloss black!

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  • 2 weeks later...

A bit of work done to the engine, with DIY ignition leads fitted, and fake distributor made out of length of tamiya rubber tubing. No idea if the firing order is correct!

10765170066_e99f86c9ce_o.jpg

10765095025_4b2c64c871_o.jpg

10765373543_f969c0605d_o.jpg

Looks not too shabby for a first attempt at detailing!

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Looks great so far, keep it up!

I just finished this kit some weeks ago and it was not a walk in the park, some major fitting issues on mine at least.

Thanks for the reply dbostream! I am expecting fitting issues through the build, as the sprues have a lot of flash on the parts. But that what adds fun to the build!

Have you got a pic of your finished build?

B.

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I don't want to hijack your thread, but I hope these might be useful to you:

fingernails-XL.jpg

These are fake fingernails from Boots, used to make the "sugar scoops around the headlights so you can't see sideways through the lenses.

And if you put the body together like this:

subassemblies-XL.jpg

body-mockup-and-paint-XL.jpg

bluebody-XL.jpg

you can eliminate the seams between the top and bottom halves of the body. You can fettle the bonnet hinge so that it can be clipped on at the end after it is complete -- it's not actually attached in the picture above, just mocked up -- I actually sprayed the bonnet and body separately so that the firewall and front frame are also body coloured, as they should be. Most of the interior can be fitted after the body is joined. That's the big problem with the coupe -- you really can't slide the interior in from the front, so you pretty much have to build the whole body before painting, if you want to be rid of the seams...

I hope this helps!

bestest,

M.

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Cheers for that, M.

Looks handy tips for the build as I was somewhat unsure how best to go about ensuring no seams between bottom and top half of body, and yet still being able to fit the interior.

Must get some fake nails the next time I'm in poundland... ;-)

Cheers

Brian.

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  • 2 weeks later...

This may be useful to people building an E Type.

Great walk around, thanks for posting that link!

Still plodding away on the build. Still deciding on the body colour, rather than going for gloss black, I'm thinking more of gloss green (Tamiya X5) or gloss blue (Tamiya X4). The green may be too "in your face" for such a classic car as an E-Type Jag, so perhaps the blue.

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looks good

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Experimenting with bleach, tamiya X1 gloss acrylic, pledge multi surface wax, and alclad 2 chrome laquer gave this rather dapper looking wheel:

11106127263_2fb967d754_o.jpg (Looks better in real life, shame about the poor photo)

Quite pleased at how this turned out - misting the alclad2 chrome on top of glossed tamiya gloss black has resulted in the spokes, rim and hub cap being nicely chromed up, yet still retaining the black between the spokes! :bling: Possibly been too heavy handed with the alclad2 though, as it isn't as shiny as I'd hoped. Still, my cunning plan worked well! :police:

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Buffing the alclad chromed rim yesterday, the paint buffed down to the bare plastic.. So out with the FPS again. This would be a good time to fill in some gaps caused by removing the wheel rim from the sprue, using my trusty mixture of poundland superglue & powder scraped from a pastel stick.

Ooops, what's that? I've snapped one of the lugs off the hub lock nut? :poo: No worries, drill the hub, add a wee length of 0.5mm copper wire, then fill it with the same mixture of superglue and pastel powder:

11134620924_8417931477_o.jpg

A good recovery I think, should look like it never happened once painted and alcladed!! :ninja: Will respray this time using humbrol enamel as a base coat.

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Cheers Steve. I find that superglue alone sets into a rock hard substance which is nigh on impossible to sand smoothly without damaging the surrounding areas. Mixing pastel powder with the superglue makes a paste which is much easier to sand, as long as it is done within 10-15 minutes before the mix starts to cure. And it helps to see how much filler has been applied, and how much remains after sanding.

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Bit of nightmare spraying humbrol enamel gloss black thinned with humbrol enamel thinners through the air brush. Very spattery despite thinning at 50:50 and trying from 15psi to 20psi. Not to mention the awful enamel thinner smell :-o, and the nightmare of airbrush cleaning.... Will see if the wheels need another coat of enamel tomorrow. This made me realise how easy Tamiya acrylics are to work with, spray like a charm, a lot less whiffy, and rapid drying!

I'm assuming that using tamiya gloss acrylic, overcoated with klear for ultra shine, would not be usable under Alclad chrome?

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