Auto focus Arggghhhh!

[bentwaters81tfw]

Having seen some of the stupendous photos you guys take, I have a basic problem.

I treated myself to a Pentax K-30 6 months ago,and so far havent taken much with it. Prior to that I used the ist-DL with a Pentax 75-300 lens.

Now not being very bright, I tend to shoot in full auto. My problem is trying to track aircraft, particularly if it is not a bright sunny day.

The auto focus kicks in and the lens goes into 'search mode' from 'end to end', I can never get a lock, and consequently miss the shot.

I never had this problem with my old ME Super with a 70-200 slide zoom, only this twisty modern thing.

Am I likely to have more control over events if I shoot in a manual mode? I'd like to find out before I venture forth and spend cash and fuel on a live subject at an airshow.

Cheers

Frank

[colin]

Can you change the camera to spot metering, if you have a lot of focus points it may be hunting for the best one and not locking onto anything as you pan.

[Jazzy Jase]

I don't think you mean spot metering. The metering mode changes how the camera evaluates for exposure.

You might have more luck switching to a single focus point (the centre one is usually the most accurate).

Make sure the auto focus is set to continuous and not one-shot.

[colin]

I don't think you mean spot metering. The metering mode changes how the camera evaluates for exposure.

You might have more luck switching to a single focus point (the centre one is usually the most accurate).

Make sure the auto focus is set to continuous and not one-shot.

You are correct Jazzy, my mistake I meant focus

[hacker]

I had to get a new camera before my daughter's wedding. We bought a Cannon EOS Rebel T3i. Works great. I have it set on Auto focus for the wife in case she takes pics. It very easy to operate and takes very good clear pics.

Word of caution though when taking pics of your models........shows every bloody mistakes and imperfections on them!!

[Kallisti]

Does your camera have any presets, eg Landscape mode - then if so switch it to Landscape as that sets the focus to infinity usually and that stops the interminable delay between pressing the button and the shutter going but which time the aircraft is half a mile away...

[TonyG]

What about switching to manual focus? I found it was easier to do that when trying to shoot aircraft as well as shooting some sports in low light. If it's anything like my Pentax K10 the switch will be on the lower left hand of the lens mount, probably marked with settings AF-S, AF-C, MF.

[bentwaters81tfw]

On 6/17/2013 at 12:55, TonyG said:

What about switching to manual focus? I found it was easier to do that when trying to shoot aircraft as well as shooting some sports in low light. If it's anything like my Pentax K10 the switch will be on the lower left hand of the lens mount, probably marked with settings AF-S, AF-C, MF.

It does. Just had a little play with the manual setting. I'll give it a go on a moving target as soon as the opportunuty arises. Thanks for that, I guessed there had to be a setting somewhere to overcome it. The manual is about the thickness of a phone book, and I've not had the chance to play properly.

[davidelvy]

I never had this problem with my old ME Super with a 70-200 slide zoom, only this twisty modern thing.

Frank

Ah, fond memories!

[bentwaters81tfw]

Yep, twist to focus, pull to zoom all in one smooth movement. I was less than chuffed when I found the results with the old zoom (SMC-A) on a digital body were awful. Put a blue cast on the pictures. So much for interchangeability. Not like the daft split outer focus and inner zoom on th enew one. OK withmy 18-55, I can set on infinity and zoom, but the 75-300 is not so straightforward. Until I get it set on something distant, I can't be sure. The focus seems to vary slightly at infinity, and I can't zoom without having to refocus again. Not funny with a 400mph target!

[pyro-manic]

I wouldn't try to use manual focus on a fast-moving target. Autofocus shouldn't have difficulty locking on to an aircraft. I'd say switch to AF-C, single (centre) AF point, and use Aperture priority (set to around f/8) or Shutter priority with a shutter speed of, say, 1/500 or greater for a jet, and 1/125 or 1/160 for a prop (to get the prop blur). You may want to dial in some exposure compensation if the aircraft is a dark colour, and/or if the sky is overcast. Finally, auto ISO may be useful if your lens is not particularly fast (I'm guessing it's a f/3.5-5.6 or something similar) and the light is poor. If this is a bit daunting, use "P" (Program) mode and let the camera choose appropriate settings. P mode functions much like "Auto" but gives you control over focus points (very important) and ISO range. As the K-30 is a recent model, the ISO range should be pretty good - you can safely go up to 1600 with no worries about noise, and even higher will still give you useable results.

You will need to practice taking "panning" shots - try it on moving cars, and/or on birds in flight.

EDIT: This page has some very useful tips: http://airshow-reviews.com/photography.html

Edited June 18, 2013 by pyro-manic

[JG63]

Depending on the body, there might be a focus lock avialable in the menu functions. Sorry, I speak Nikonese and they call it 3D tracking. Good advice regarding going to Manual mode. Keep in mind that a moving target (i.e a jet or a hummingbird.. ) presents some special problems. In poor light, you're screwed unless you have some fast glass at f2.8 or so. Stopping down your aperture a few clicks will help increase your depth of field - more of the shot will be in focus. Consider manual focus as my wife did here:

Also, take advantage of auto ISO, my Nikon crop bodies do well until about 6000 or so but can shoot reasonably even higher. Little gadgets like image stabilization help but won't reduce motion blur. Best medicine is to practice practice practice. There is no substitute for good technique. If your images came out blue before, the white balance setting was probably in an undesirable position. I shoot AUTO WB 90% of the time. Hope this helps, JG

[oggy4624]

I dont know about the pentax K30, but I was told about a neat trick the other day by a sports photographer shooting nikon gear.

There is a button on the back of his camera called 'af-on'

He de-coupled his autofocus fron his shutter button in the autofocus menu and uses the af on to contineously focus, getting spot on shots all the time.

I googled the technique and now use it all the time - it's brilliant.

I will hopefully be trying it out at Leuchars next month .

[PaulT 876]

Hi

Its called Back Button Focus, I use it 99.9% of the time.

There will be one or two buttons

If two Buttons AE-L/ AF-L on one & the other AF ON on the other use AF ON set vie

Custom setting Menu in Section f Controls.

If only one button AE-L / AF-L use this and set vie Custom setting Menu in Section f Controls.

This is for Nikons, Canons I think use sticky tape and blu tack and a stick .

Paul

[John R]

Only just seen this thread but here is something that might help.

Before your subject comes along get the focus set to infinity by focussing on something in the distance and let go of the focus switch so the focus stays at infinity.

Then when your subject comes along locate and frame it before activating the autofocus.

I find that cameras, when searching for a subject, will first look for something close up and then work outwards. If you can't locate the subject due to the viewfinder being fuzzy the camera will have a harder job finding it.

John

[vigilant]

On 8/24/2013 at 4:54 PM, PaulT 876 said:

Hi

Its called Back Button Focus, I use it 99.9% of the time.

There will be one or two buttons

If two Buttons AE-L/ AF-L on one & the other AF ON on the other use AF ON set vie

Custom setting Menu in Section f Controls.

If only one button AE-L / AF-L use this and set vie Custom setting Menu in Section f Controls.

This is for Nikons, Canons I think use sticky tape and blu tack and a stick .

Paul

hi my canon goes to focus mode when shutter is half pressed, when panning half press so it focusses as you pan then its in focus when you fire the shutter, if you go to a f1 race 90% of camera men use canon as the focus is so good for sport action

vigilant

[Paul J]

Thats interesting. It happens on my work camera which is an Ixus 160 and it does the same when I take pictures of my work related duties. I turn it off and then on again. That seems to sort it. But if you are doing fast action pics then I don't know

[PaulT 876]

Hi

Yes they do use Cannon as they are cheaper than Nikon Kit which I use, but I know a few of them that do F1 and they all use Back Button focus.

What happens if you use the top shutter button and press 1/2 way to focus if focus then when you fully press it locks the focus and takes the photo as normal.

If you use BBF  you focus with the back button keep your finger on that button and when you want a photo you press the shutter button this way the focus tracking stays locked on to the subject all the time and in focus. The other way the subject could be out of focus by the shutter lag to take the photo. I know its hard to under stand but once you use this way 99% only shoot this way.

I do a lot of Motor sport and I work in it also so get quite a lot of chances to take photos when other do not.

Hope this helps

Paul

[Paul A H]

I need to remember to set my Nikon bodies up for back button focus ready for the spring. I'm currently having a fling with a used-but-mint Fuji X-E1 and loving it even more than I thought I would!

[PaulT 876]

Hi Paul

I was looking to get a Fuji XE-2s s/h and a few lens, as would be a lot smaller to just carry around than my Nikons D300s x2 and a D90 all with grips and loads of lens

A few have Fuji,s in my camera club and they are getting great photos from them. I also was looking to get a FX body this year and FX UWA lens but as the ch - ht boiler is playing up that has put paid to the new gear for a while unless I can sort some thing out, as I do not trade in kit it takes time to save the cash.

As you are just up the A43 from me do you go to any of the many Northampton Clubs , one club is coming over to are club next week.

Paul

 

 

[Paul A H]

Hi Paul

 

I'm not a member of any clubs, no. No time these days, I'm afraid  I submit a little bit to Alamy, but again I don't have too much time for that either.

 

The Fuji is good fun. It has its quirks, but I've always like the way Fuji do things and they are one of the few companies who don't mind taking risks and doing something innovative with their sensor technology. I can't vouch for all of the technical differences between their X-Trans sensor and conventional bayer sensors, but the film simulation modes are superb. Unfortunately Fuji glass is not cheap (makes Nikon seem good value) but you can pick up decent used stuff for slightly more palatable prices. An X-E1 or X-E2 with the 27mm 2.8 lens is a great, affordable alternative to an X-100. That lens will be next on my list.

 

Before the Fuji I tried the Nikon 1 system, but it was too much of a compromise for me. The sensors aren't big enough to challenge DX (or even M43) quality, which made my question why I bothered investing in the system instead of a decent compact. My main Nikon kit is a D7000 and a D3200 for when I need big files but not fast autofocus.

 

Paul