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1:72 Grumman F7F-3 Tigercat

1:72 Grumman Tigercat US Navy F7F

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#1 Navy Bird

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Posted 09 January 2013 - 03:13 AM

Hi mates,

 

I'm back for another go at it. This time it's the iconic (or is it venerable, I'm never quire sure) old Monogram kit of the Grumman F7F-3 Tigercat in 1:72 scale. The Monogram kit dates back to 1967 (not long after I started modelling) and can easily be found at contests, swap meets, flea markets, dusty attics, and mouldy fruit cellars. I got mine for an easy $3.00 at last year's ROCON contest (Rochester, NY). The shape of the old kit is very good, but being from that just-out-of-the-womb period in the history of plastic modelling, it's a bit short in the detail department. Little things, like the entire cockpit and the wheel wells are well, missing. It's not like some parts in my kit were lost along the way, but more like the parts were never intended to be there to begin with.

 

Luckily, we have the hard working Aires more than willing to take my hard earned money by offering a complete Grumman F7F Extreme Detailing Set (suitable not only for the Monogram kit but also for the same when dressed in Revell garb) for a paltry $55.00!! Isn't capitalism a wonderful thing?  :)

 

So here are the raw materials:

 

100_3079.jpg

 

The blue stuff is the kit, the resin-y coloured stuff is the, um, resin. I've already removed some of the resin parts from their pour blocks, and I can say that I'm quite pleased with the quality. I haven't seen any bubbles or such yet (knock wood). There are some extra kit parts that I'm not showing (engines, cowlings, etc.) since they will be replaced by the resin. Oddly enough, the bottom of each wing has recessed panel lines, but the rest of the kit is raised. No matter, I shall be re-scribing the fuselage as part of the project.

 

Speaking of the resin, we have a complete cockpit and two complete miniature Pratt & Whitney Double Wasp radial engines. Little kits themselves, I have the honour of installing the cylinder heads into the crankcase one at a time. Pumps and tanks are present, as are the intricate exhaust headers. Also in resin we have some of the engine mounts which will be exposed once the nacelles are cut open, and we have new front cowling pieces and main gear doors.

 

In photoetch, we will be building new wheel wells and adding assorted fiddly detail stuff, including seat belts and a new instrument panel which accepts the supplied film instruments. There are PE ignition rings and cooling gills for the engines. And lovely copper wire, which I think will be used for the lifters. (Is that what those rods are? I'm afraid I'm a bit of a hoser when it comes to a spanner. And that's hoser in the Canadian sense, just in case it means something naughty in Britain.)

 

Not shown are the replacement propellers and spinners that I've ordered and are whisking their way towards me at this very moment. From Missouri of all places.

 

I think I'll also pick up a vacuform canopy, because there are a couple available and we should do our part to support the cottage industries so they can grow and turn into big black smoke (apologies to the brothers Davies).

 

What I need is a new decal sheet. All I can find are ones for Tigercat Fire Bombers, which is not my intent. I was thinking of something more along the lines of Korean War bomber. Any ideas, mates? After my recent target tug Sea Vixen, I'm looking forward to a model where the entire fuselage is the same colour!!

 

Stay tuned, things should start getting interesting soon!

 

Cheers,

Bill

 

PS. It's a disease. I can't stop.



#2 Viasistina

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Posted 09 January 2013 - 04:11 AM

PM me. I've got some decals and two seater conversion.

#3 heloman1

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Posted 09 January 2013 - 05:35 AM

Hi Bill. Those old Monogram kits were very well cast/moulded and have stood up in some respects but as you say lacking in essential detail. I too swaped the engine for resiin and the difference was amazing.

Colour wise I think you looking at sea blue gloss or sea blue gloss maybe sea blue gloss, oh and black! I'll follow your thread with interest.

 

Colin



#4 Giorgio N

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Posted 09 January 2013 - 01:23 PM

 Very interesting subject and a build I'll follow with interest !

I have the same kit in the stash and often find myself looking at it and feeling the urge to start building it. I wasn't as lucky as you with price though, mine costed $4 ! :lol:

Can't help with decals a unfoertunately, mine only has markings for a single option and they are useless anyway


Edited by Giorgio N, 09 January 2013 - 01:24 PM.


#5 Navy Bird

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Posted 10 January 2013 - 12:16 AM

Hi mates!

 

Embarrassing confession - I have no idea how to remove these pieces from the pour block:

 

100_3081.jpg

 

I taped a piece of sandpaper to a flat piece of glass, and figured that I could just sand until the block was gone, but I have nothing to hold onto. Plus, if I were to get to a point where the block is sanded away, these pieces look rather delicate and I'm sure that they would snarfle in some way or another.

 

Advice?

 

Thanks,

Bill



#6 David H

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Posted 10 January 2013 - 12:48 AM

Bill, if i can make 2 suggestions:

 

1) For the Love of God, please don't do it in overall black.

 

2) If you have friends with 72nd scale Tamiya F4U-1 or -1A kits, ask em if they'd be willing to part with the 13'1" Ham Standard propellers. Much, much better than the kit propellers. Failing that, Plan "B" would be to use the propellers from the Hasegawa F6F Hellcat kit. Next best thing out there. Quickboost does a resin propeller but i haven't inspected it closely. I fear it's just a copy of the Eduard Hellcat propeller which is the low point of that entire kit.

 

d-bot

 

Former Grumman-ish alumni.



#7 rotorheadtx

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Posted 10 January 2013 - 12:55 AM

Starfighter Decals in the USA do two very nice sheets for the F7F!

 

http://www.starfight.../172-aircr.html


Edited by rotorheadtx, 10 January 2013 - 12:55 AM.


#8 rotorheadtx

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Posted 10 January 2013 - 12:58 AM

Hi mates!

 

Embarrassing confession - I have no idea how to remove these pieces from the pour block:

 

100_3081.jpg

 

I taped a piece of sandpaper to a flat piece of glass, and figured that I could just sand until the block was gone, but I have nothing to hold onto. Plus, if I were to get to a point where the block is sanded away, these pieces look rather delicate and I'm sure that they would snarfle in some way or another.

 

Advice?

 

Thanks,

Bill

 

The V-struts I would just replace with bent wire. I would cut the bulkhead frame away from the backing with an ultra-thin razor saw like the one from UMM/JLC.

 

http://umm-usa.com/o...?products_id=35



#9 Navy Bird

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Posted 10 January 2013 - 01:04 AM

Hi David,

 

No worries - no plans for black! This will be an overall glossy sea blue single seater. Could be late 40s (with WWII style insignias) or it could be early Korean war. As far as the props go, I've already ordered the Quickboost resin replacements, which I think were listed as for the F4U. I thought the Corsair, Hellcat, Bearcat, and Tigercat all used the same props - true?

 

If I don't like any of the props, I could always do this...

 

grum1219F7F-2NdeadstklndCorkyMeyerS.jpg

 

Cheers,

Bill



#10 Navy Bird

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Posted 10 January 2013 - 01:15 AM

The V-struts I would just replace with bent wire. I would cut the bulkhead frame away from the backing with an ultra-thin razor saw like the one from UMM/JLC.

 

http://umm-usa.com/o...?products_id=35

 

Thanks - I had that in mind as Plan "B" although it will result in a bulkhead that is thicker than it should be. Oh well, I may end up scratch building all of these parts, because I think no matter what I try I going to end up breaking something!

 

Cheers,

Bill



#11 Jessica

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Posted 10 January 2013 - 02:41 AM

Hi mates!

 

Embarrassing confession - I have no idea how to remove these pieces from the pour block

 

I taped a piece of sandpaper to a flat piece of glass, and figured that I could just sand until the block was gone, but I have nothing to hold onto. Plus, if I were to get to a point where the block is sanded away, these pieces look rather delicate and I'm sure that they would snarfle in some way or another.

 

Advice?

 

Thanks,

Bill

Very carefully, using only fingertip pressure, sand the part with its surrounding wafer in figure 8s on your piece of sandpaper taped to the glass. Cut the part away from the surrounding resin as if it's a vac part, then using the friction of your fingertips, drag it over the sandpaper. Go slowly, check often and stop just as the wafer in the centre of the part starts coming away from the edges of the part. I second the recommendation to replace the V struts with wire. Did I say be very careful?


Edited by Jessica, 10 January 2013 - 02:44 AM.


#12 David H

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Posted 10 January 2013 - 03:23 AM

Hi David,

 

No worries - no plans for black! This will be an overall glossy sea blue single seater. Could be late 40s (with WWII style insignias) or it could be early Korean war. As far as the props go, I've already ordered the Quickboost resin replacements, which I think were listed as for the F4U. I thought the Corsair, Hellcat, Bearcat, and Tigercat all used the same props - true?

 

If I don't like any of the props, I could always do this...

 

grum1219F7F-2NdeadstklndCorkyMeyerS.jpg

 

Cheers,

Bill

Ummm....Not exactly.

Early F4U Corsairs up thru the Goodyear FG-1As delivered in Gloss Sea Blue used a 13' 4" Hamilton Standard Hydromatic. The F6F, F7F, and TBM-3 used a 13' 1" Ham Standard "Paddle Blade" propeller. This was also fitted to a lot of F4U-1D and FG-1Ds. The F8F used a totally different, 4-Blade Aeroproducts propeller.

 

The difference in planform between the 13' 4" and 13' 1" propellers is significant.

 

-d-



#13 rotorheadtx

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Posted 10 January 2013 - 03:41 AM

Thanks - I had that in mind as Plan "B" although it will result in a bulkhead that is thicker than it should be. Oh well, I may end up scratch building all of these parts, because I think no matter what I try I going to end up breaking something!

 

Cheers,

Bill

I think you misunderstand my meaning - the JLC/UMM saw is so thin that you can cut parallel to the surface of the face of the part and lose only a minute amount of thickness. I do not mean you should cut around the bulkhead's shape; I mean cut it from the backing sheet on the horizontal plane.



#14 modelman182

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Posted 10 January 2013 - 07:00 AM

Hi Bill

Looks like you have yourself a nice little project there! I've got the same excellent Aires sets but am matching them with an old Gran vacform (just cos masochism runs in the family ;-) ). I would be interested in a link to the supplier of the replacement props, as the ones supplied with the Gran kit are truly appalling! I had a look around but failed to find anything. Your help would be most appreciated.

I'll be following this one with delight - especially as I currently have it's bigger brother (the AMT 48th kit, with extras) on my bench as I type this. I'm planning on a firebomber version for the 48th kit, though. :-)

Cheers

Kev

#15 Navy Bird

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Posted 10 January 2013 - 04:59 PM

Ummm....Not exactly.

Early F4U Corsairs up thru the Goodyear FG-1As delivered in Gloss Sea Blue used a 13' 4" Hamilton Standard Hydromatic. The F6F, F7F, and TBM-3 used a 13' 1" Ham Standard "Paddle Blade" propeller. This was also fitted to a lot of F4U-1D and FG-1Ds. The F8F used a totally different, 4-Blade Aeroproducts propeller.

 

The difference in planform between the 13' 4" and 13' 1" propellers is significant.

 

-d-

 

Thanks for the clarification. I checked and what I've ordered are Quickboost (Aries) resin replacement props for the F6F, which should be the same as the F7F (13' 1" diameter). When I get them, I can compare to both the Monogram props and against the Eduard Hellcat kit (which I have in my stash). Here is a link to a picture of the Quickboost prop.

 

I think you misunderstand my meaning - the JLC/UMM saw is so thin that you can cut parallel to the surface of the face of the part and lose only a minute amount of thickness. I do not mean you should cut around the bulkhead's shape; I mean cut it from the backing sheet on the horizontal plane.

 

Ah, OK, I did misunderstand you. I tried that last night with the V-struts, but as I expected I broke one of them. I'll try this again with the bulkhead.

 

Hi Bill

Looks like you have yourself a nice little project there! I've got the same excellent Aires sets but am matching them with an old Gran vacform (just cos masochism runs in the family ;-) ). I would be interested in a link to the supplier of the replacement props, as the ones supplied with the Gran kit are truly appalling! I had a look around but failed to find anything. Your help would be most appreciated.

I'll be following this one with delight - especially as I currently have it's bigger brother (the AMT 48th kit, with extras) on my bench as I type this. I'm planning on a firebomber version for the 48th kit, though. :-)

Cheers

Kev

 

Let's see, I ordered Quickboost part number 72381 from Sprue Brothers. Here is a link. This is listed as a resin replacement prop for the Cyber Hobby F6F Hellcat kit.

 

Vac kit, eh? You do have a masochistic streak!  :)

 

Cheers,

Bill



#16 Navy Bird

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Posted 10 January 2013 - 05:05 PM

Very carefully, using only fingertip pressure, sand the part with its surrounding wafer in figure 8s on your piece of sandpaper taped to the glass. Cut the part away from the surrounding resin as if it's a vac part, then using the friction of your fingertips, drag it over the sandpaper. Go slowly, check often and stop just as the wafer in the centre of the part starts coming away from the edges of the part. I second the recommendation to replace the V struts with wire. Did I say be very careful?

 

Thanks, Jessica. This is basically what I tried to do, but the whole thing is just so darn skinny that there is not much I can hold onto. I try to hold onto the bulkhead, which is the thickest part on the resin, but it keeps slipping away. I'll try again, as well as trying the thin razor saw trick. This is the first time I've seen resin parts on a wafer like this, but at least I'll learn some new techniques no matter what I do!

 

Cheers,

Bill



#17 David H

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Posted 10 January 2013 - 10:21 PM

Bill, going from the photo you sent me, its hard to tell if those blades are a direct copy of the Eduard kit, but i will say they look much better than those found in the Monogram kit.

 

(BTW: The Tamiya -1 and -1A kits include the -1D propeller; you don't need it to build a -1/-1A, so it's not a show stopper)

 

-d-



#18 Nobby

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Posted 11 January 2013 - 05:56 PM

I'll be keeping an eye on this pal! Love the Tiger cat, even considered designing one for R.C.  Bit of a puzzle though casting the the struts in resin when there is brass rod and plastic rod! Even stretched sprue! 



#19 martin hale

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Posted 11 January 2013 - 06:55 PM

This will be fun to follow, although the phrase "Glutton for punishment" does spring to mind!

 

Martin



#20 Navy Bird

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Posted 12 January 2013 - 02:45 AM

I'll be keeping an eye on this pal! Love the Tiger cat, even considered designing one for R.C.  Bit of a puzzle though casting the the struts in resin when there is brass rod and plastic rod! Even stretched sprue! 

 

Ain't that the truth! I have a good selection of styrene rod in stock, so that will probably be the route I take. The resin struts measure about 0.6mm diameter, and I've got 0.025in rod, methinks that's close enough! Your Javelin project is coming along nicely! :)

 

This will be fun to follow, although the phrase "Glutton for punishment" does spring to mind!

 

Martin

 

True, but I've never tackled a project like that Gotha of yours! Holy smokes! I do have some plans to scale your TSR.2 build down to the gentleman's scale, maybe this summer. Got your build bookmarked!  :)

 

Cheers,

Bill







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