Jump to content

GB Chat


Recommended Posts

Brilliant Steve!

Just finished off the glossing of the R1! Reckon I've just shoved another hole in the ozone layer! Zero gloss is the doggies dangly bits! The blue looks great! More a metallic purple blue I'd say.

Pics will follow when I get all the crud off the desk!!

See ya matey & hope ya build is going ok?

ATB..........

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Brilliant Steve!

Just finished off the glossing of the R1! Reckon I've just shoved another hole in the ozone layer! Zero gloss is the doggies dangly bits! The blue looks great! More a metallic purple blue I'd say.

Pics will follow when I get all the crud off the desk!!

See ya matey & hope ya build is going ok?

ATB..........

Sound cool Riggers.

I must get round to getting some Zero Paints, been threatnin a while now.

Yeah, the builds going ok, Im going home again tonight, so more this weekend. Going to start on the NR's orange, should be a laugh.

Laaaater

Steve

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sound cool Riggers.

I must get round to getting some Zero Paints, been threatnin a while now.

Yeah, the builds going ok, Im going home again tonight, so more this weekend. Going to start on the NR's orange, should be a laugh.

Laaaater

Steve

Steve, you just gotta use Zero paints! Sprays beautifully & can colour match pretty much 'anything'!

The R1 colour is spot on. I'm really pleased with the way the body work has turned out.

Was very dubious about spraying over the decals with Zero lacquer, but with just 2 'mist' coats, then 3 heavy 'wet' coats....it's like glass! I'll polish all the gloss work with Tamiya wax, then final smooth over with Meguires car wax.

Zorst is finished! Titanium downpipes with CF end can, just gotta weather it.

All good so far.......

ATB

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Steve, you just gotta use Zero paints! Sprays beautifully & can colour match pretty much 'anything'!

The R1 colour is spot on. I'm really pleased with the way the body work has turned out.

Was very dubious about spraying over the decals with Zero lacquer, but with just 2 'mist' coats, then 3 heavy 'wet' coats....it's like glass! I'll polish all the gloss work with Tamiya wax, then final smooth over with Meguires car wax.

Zorst is finished! Titanium downpipes with CF end can, just gotta weather it.

All good so far.......

ATB

Well the only reason I havent got them is that they not readily available in SA and we have to get them off the net, and that can take a while. Plus, it will give me an excuse to start using my blower again, (i just cant be arsed most of the time to use it).

Anyhoo, Chat to you guys later, im off on my looooooong drive home.

See ya

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeterday I tried to post pics of my latest progress via Photobucket but when I hit the post button BM told me I had an illegal URL. Anyone else had problems of this sort.

Colin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeterday I tried to post pics of my latest progress via Photobucket but when I hit the post button BM told me I had an illegal URL. Anyone else had problems of this sort.

Colin

Hi Colin.

Yup, every time.

The solution I found, hit the button next to post, think its other post options, and it goes through normally after that.

Mine does it every time I post from photobucket.

Thanks

Steve

Link to comment
Share on other sites

krow113,

This is NOT hollow braid, this is single wire.

ATB & keep trying..........

I don't remember posting it as hollow , Only that it is braided line. Some of the braided line I have in stock is able to be threaded with a wire as well. Most I have is from Tuner Factory. I ordered 1 of each size to have for my builds, models dont need proper hose anyway. Cast or machined A/N fittings can be hollowed out to take the line as well. There are some procedures required to make the braided line look more realistic, but thats another story.

Good luck.

Edited by krow113
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here is my order from Media Mix Hobby , in a timely fashion:

IMG_5366_zps492d0092.jpg

Sizes 1-5 will cover most needs, and the white braided tube can be painted to suit. I took advantage of this as I find the braided line can be hard to find.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The braided line is readily available I have found. The issue with passing the 'solid' line for front brake hoses is the connection onto the 'splitter' just won't work (well for me anyhow). Modeler made the .65mm hose which was hollow that slipped over the nubs exactly the same as the issued standard black rubber, but they have now ceased production of that product. This is the hose that I am trying to find. Plus, if you go with the braided line as above, you have to buy the fittings as well.

Regards,

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Depends on the level of detail one wishes to impart in a build.

Personally I remove the 'nubs' and bin supplied black plastic hose, that so generically seems to transcend every kit subject ever produced, as the 'pushed on nub' look dont do it for me.

For anyone competing this is a killer on the show tables as well , being something the judges look for. That and kit spokes!

For me the fittings and line look great!

674.jpg

Good luck finding the hose , I hope my post was helpful to others.

Edited by krow113
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Depends on the level of detail one wishes to impart in a build.

Personally I remove the 'nubs' and bin supplied black plastic hose, that so generically seems to transcend every kit subject ever produced, as the 'pushed on nub' look dont do it for me.

For anyone competing this is a killer on the show tables as well , being something the judges look for. That and kit spokes!

For me the fittings and line look great!

674.jpg

Good luck finding the hose , I hope my post was helpful to others.

Erm...

Im afraid im going to have to disagree with that statement.

Ive entered bikes into compo's in both South Africa and the UK, and the issue of the black hose has never come up.

(best arguement ive heard, go outside and look at my bike, look at the cables...)

If you enter a kit straight out of the box, then thats what comes in the box. If entered in modified, then yes, possibly, one could say that the hose is not acceptable, however, I have seen numerous kits entered with PE aftermarket upgrades, but still with the black hose fitted.

A lot of modellers, myself included, just simply cannot afford to import the aftermarket stuff, and with our exchange rates, it is quite expensive.

The only reason im back on the kit supplied hose is that my stock has run out.

I think its down to personal choice. If you can afford the aftermarket stuff, then go for it, but, in essence, there is nothing wrong with using the kit supplied hose, if you are the average joe like most of us are on this site.

Steve

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well said that man, it's the same with the AM forls etc that Tamiya make. A case in point is the Honda RC166 kit number 14113, therea re four AM sets available, wheels, chain front forks with clutch and the rivet set. All of these more than double the cost of the original kit but I my opinion don't double the look of the model once finished. It is as Steve rightly points out in the eye or wallet of the beholder.

Colin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The black hose does not look like cables or lines that actually terminate in fittings. Look at any bike you want ,that argument is almost laughable.

Obviously I was not talking about oob entries , and I have seen oob get dismissed because of unrealistic pushed on nib cables and lines , when it was next to a line/fitting entry. Specifically the Tamiya RC 166 racer, with all the upgrades a beautiful model, but all the cables and lines were done in the pushed on nib, black hose supplied in the kit, it ruined the realistic look of the rest of the model.My opinion and that of the judges as well , he has entered 3 years in a row and is yet to place because of this.

I put a caliper on some Tamiya hose , it scales out to 12mm almost 1/2 " ,1/2 " brake lines? And every bike has the same hose?

It costs an average of $10.00 to out fit a $50.00 kit with proper fittings and line if one goes about it diligently. I use lots of suppliers all over the world , fittings are not unaffordable.

If this is the response to postings trying to help guys out then I wont bother any more.

Good luck and keep trying.

Edited by krow113
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Krow, Dont get me wrong, I was in no way critisising yourself, or the advice that you were imparting to everyone.

Probably everyone that builds these bikes knows that the cables supplied are not to scale, and that there are better alternatives, and some, like myself, scratchbuild some of the connectors at the end of the lines.

As you have quoted in Dollars, Im assuming that you are from either the US or Canada. In South Africa, things are just a tad different. Our exchange rate to the dollar is 9 to 1, and the pound, almost 15 to 1 plus the shipping cost, so, contrary to your statement, it IS expensive for us to import AM parts, as it is expensive to import kits, and for that matter, actually buy kits from the hobby shop.

The buying power of the Dollar/Pound/Euro is far greater than the Rand, so, yes, in the US/Europe, it probably is quite affordable. (that is to say, if you have the dosh to spend in the first place).

Im sure theres a lot of modellers would love to be able afford all the aftermarket bits, but are just not in a financial position to do so.

So please, dont stop offering advice, because we all learn, every day.

Steve

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Krow,

You have carefully shown the fitting for the single rear brake unit on ? bike. My issues are that how do you make the connection to a twin disc brake unit for the front? Do you have a pic to show how you have made this connection?

Steve is right in saying that the 'initial' cost of importing the Top Studio or the alike into SA or even the UK is quite dear, but each bike will be different on it's front brake setup. The connection for my completed GB Yam R1 has a block where two leads go into it from the base & then one lead exits which connects onto the brake lever housing. I would scan & show the pic, but I am now at work.

The Modeler hose was exactly the same principle as the standard 'kit' black hose albeit, braided & steel in colour. But as I have said before, Modeler have ceased production of the .60mm hose. Very bluddy inconvienient!!

There is a chap called 'sandro' from Brazil on another forum where he shows just pure 'mastery' in his bike models, yet I have to see how he makes these front brake connections. To the pads? Easy....to the brake lever? Not seen!

Keep the pin in the grenade for when the grenade is actually required!! Lol

ATB........

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Krow,

You have carefully shown the fitting for the single rear brake unit on ? bike. My issues are that how do you make the connection to a twin disc brake unit for the front? Do you have a pic to show how you have made this connection?

Steve is right in saying that the 'initial' cost of importing the Top Studio or the alike into SA or even the UK is quite dear, but each bike will be different on it's front brake setup. The connection for my completed GB Yam R1 has a block where two leads go into it from the base & then one lead exits which connects onto the brake lever housing. I would scan & show the pic, but I am now at work.

The Modeler hose was exactly the same principle as the standard 'kit' black hose albeit, braided & steel in colour. But as I have said before, Modeler have ceased production of the .60mm hose. Very bluddy inconvienient!!

There is a chap called 'sandro' from Brazil on another forum where he shows just pure 'mastery' in his bike models, yet I have to see how he makes these front brake connections. To the pads? Easy....to the brake lever? Not seen!

Keep the pin in the grenade for when the grenade is actually required!! Lol

ATB........

Howdy

With the solid core braided wire, one has to DIY a fitting that connects upto the brake lever housing, which you can do with hollow mico rod, and tart up a bit. A bit of a fiddly exercise, but if you want scale then its worth it.

I have used Micro Rod and Hex rod in some of my builds to replicate fittings and they come out alright.

The braided hose is so much easier as it just slots over the kit nubs, or,if you want to go all the way, aftermarket connectors.

Ta...

and hey, Riggers, you finished your R1 now... whats next mhhhh mhhhhh? :wicked:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Can I join in? I'm a bit late starting, but I picked up a cheap YZ250 in the HLJ sale before Christmas and it would be nice to get it on the bench. My first bike & all that.

Will

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Can I join in? I'm a bit late starting, but I picked up a cheap YZ250 in the HLJ sale before Christmas and it would be nice to get it on the bench. My first bike & all that.

Will

Bloomin' right my friend......

Start a new thread with your kit & away you go.

Love to see that build.

ATB.......

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ta...

and hey, Riggers, you finished your R1 now... whats next mhhhh mhhhhh? :wicked:

This will be the Tamiya 916 'Senna' Ducati with all the trimmings!! Might even try those brake hoses!! Lol

It won't be submitted in the GB as I want to take my time over it! Got to do Senna justice.

ATB my friend........

Link to comment
Share on other sites

×
×
  • Create New...