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Space Shuttle Launch Pad 39A with Challenger STS-6


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On 17.11.2017 at 3:44 PM, RichO said:

I like the idea of running the wires through the tube.  I don't know if you have tried soldering anything that small before, but it is a pain to work that small.

 

You will come up with a great solution tho, you always do!

 

Thanks Rich for your nice comment. :worthy:

 

I know, you speak from experience, maybe this mini soldering is really a painful matter, what I could imagine. :analintruder:

 

Well, as not so experienced soldering pro smiley208.gif seems to me that the threading of both wires without soldering of one of them at the tube anyway will be the simpler method and less stressful solution for me, whereby the wires should then be threaded in before bending the brass tube. top.gif

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On 17.11.2017 at 4:49 PM, Kirk said:

Would "thread before bending" work?

 

Hello Kirk,

 

this I had tested in my first bending test with a 0.5 mm brass tube, 

 

SU3SEr.jpg

 

This method is essentially easier than threading in the wires after bending the tube. 

 

IKYpxU.jpg

 

Another important problem is the marking of the poles (+ -) of the LED wires. top2.gif

 

Therefore, with the wired LEDs, the cathode is always much shorter than the anode, which is why the marking must be taken into account in any case during further wiring. And also for this one needs a reliable and safe solution, so as not to get confused, eek.gif possibly through a colored marking or similar. denknf8.gif

 

Therefore it would be interesting, how Rich has solved this problem during his crawler lighting, hey Rich? up040577.gif

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On 17.11.2017 at 9:04 PM, Koshey said:

Striking scrupulousness and attention to small details. I'm just delighted!

Thanks Koshey for your kind words, :worthy:

 

yep, that's it why I'm trying to scratch all these tricky details, because that's what gives it that extra something. up040577.gif

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Manfred,

 

  The lighting products I use are a self contained unit.  I don't have to solder anything, or worry about which color end is power or ground.  I just simply touch the ends to a battery and they work.  The distribution of power is a simple light switch for each "zone",  I don't have to have a special unit for this.

 

In USA these type of products are designed for lazy people who just want some lights in their model kits.  Nothing special to do here, just plug and play.

 

These products are available in the USA at "Ngineering.com".  A model railroad site.

 

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Thanks Rich. :worthy:

 

Hello everybody,

 

Anyway, let's go, because with regard to the glass body for the lamps without a large lampshade, I have at least gotten a tip from a friend from the Paper Modelers Forum, who has found out a manufacturer of smallest glass beads in the Czech Crystal Valley, which I could perhaps contact to possibly get a handful of samples for testing.  up045518.gif

 

These mini beads Delica-RH / 321 11 001 (1,3 x 1,3 mm) could be a possibility with their size, and Macco-RH / 321 11 001 (1 x 1 mm) would also be interesting. top.gif

 

Seed-Beads_Delica-RH_t.pngSeed-Beads_Macco-RH_t.png
Source: preciosa-ornela.com

 

Crucial would be the inner diameter, which I have estimated from the image to 0.65 mm, which would be to check, which is why I have just asked there once. denknf8.gif 

 

Similar mini beads (Ø 1.3 x 1.1 mm), which would fit and would also be suitable for threading the LED, I have in my stock, but unfortunately they are silvered and not transparent or red-transparent. rolleyes.gif 

 

So the matter does not seem to be hopeless. 

 

So long!  up040577.gif

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Hello everybody,

 

just short to the status quo, as one could expect, from the Crystal Valley I've got a negative answer to my request, because they only deliver upwards of 30 kg.  eek.gif

 

And quite so many lamps there are not installed on the Launch Pad.  up040577.gif

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello everybody,

 

in the meantime, I went to another building site again and took care of the Intertank of the External Tank (ET), which I like to have as 3D print (1:144), if I can find a modeler and manufacturer for it. cool.gif

 

up060266.jpg
Source: NASA

 

Here is the 3D model by my friend Bill (niParts) from the ARC Forum, but unfortunately only in 1:72 scale, rolleyes.gif 

 

up060295.jpg
Source: shapeways.com (niParts)

 

as well as here with the installation of the finished 3D-Intertank at his ET (1:72), where the part comes out great, in my opinion. up045518.gif

 

up060296.jpg  up060297.jpg 
Source: arcforums.com (niart17)

 

And he also offers the matching mounts (Ice Frost Ramps) for the GH2 and GO2 pressure lines, also 1:72.

 

up060298.jpg
Source: shapeways.com (niParts)

 

A charming alternative to this is the Scratch building with thin Evergreen strips, 

 

up020598.jpg
Source: raumfahrer.net (inselaner)

 

as it was successfully and impressively had been realized by my friend (inselaner) in the Raumcon forum at the ET of his Airfix Shuttle Stack.up039822.gif

 

up028958.jpg
Source: raumfahrer.net (inselaner)

 

So far, I have also flirted with the idea of this scratch-building variant, in case I can not find a suitable 3D-print. up045518.gif

 

In the Airfix kit, the Intertank stringers are only hinted at by these boring decals and are therefore only 2D, which I can not make friends with. smiley_worship.gif 

 

5SsQGv.jpg

 

So I'm still trying to get a 3D Intertank (1:144), with that Michael Key (The Aerospace Place) had been starting in a hopeful way, cool.gif

 

up060290.jpg
Source: Shapeways.com (The Aerospace Place - Michael Key)

 

on whose update I'm still waiting.  hmmm.gif

 

That's why I've been more in-depth with the Stringers, if I have to scratch them myself, which I did not intend to do. huh.gif

 

XJ8Las.jpg
Source: NASA

 

So far, unfortunately, I had no dimensions of the stringers, but rather I have always tried to estimate it myself. At first, these images helped me, where cracks in the insulating foam on the Intertank before the STS-133 had been investigated,

 

K4ptmV.jpg
Source: NASA

 

which were caused by a broken stringer, which can be seen here. shocked.gif And thus the height of the stringers should be about 2.5''.

 

Pz2Usf.jpg
Source: NASA

 

From another image of this study after the repair of this stringer area, then I have determinedthe 1:144 widths of the Stringer (0.3 mm) and the Valleys (0.65 mm), which would be a good basis for scratch building.  up045518.gif

 

lk4BSJ.jpg
Source: NASA

 

So far so good, but then I've actually found even more detailed information about stringer geometry in another NASA document (ntrs.nasa.gov), 

 

gJwPnO.jpg
Source: NASA

 

with which I made this sketch (1:1), which was then supplemented by the 1'' thick foam insulation (red),

 

IwHbzI.jpg

 

And these dimensions with foam insulation could now, if one would like, be taken as a basis for scratch building, which is summarized here again. top.gif

 

ZQl2Lu.jpg
Source: NASA

 

But I still hope that Michael Key keeps on the line. At first he wanted to know the diameter and the exact position of the LO2-Feed Line as well as the Forward SRB Attachment Point) in the Intertank, what I still have to determine. up040577.gif

 

up060291.jpg
Source: NASA

 

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Hello everyone,

 

and my hope was not disappointed. Yesterday Michael Key came up with a new update in which he took into account some of my correction hints. cool.gif

 

On the one hand, it has reduced his previous, somewhat too large number of stringer in the two Thrust Panel to 26, as well as the perpendicularly extending circumferential segment rings somewhat narrower made, which looks much better.

 

4h2kZN.jpg
Source: Shapeways.com (The Aerospace Place - Michael Key)

 

And on the other hand, he has adapted the geometry of the front and rear transitions from the Intertank to the ET better to the original.

 

MpYqdn.jpg
Source: NASA

 

as you can see here, all respect.  speak_cool.gif

 

QXrEnl.jpg
Source: Shapeways.com (The Aerospace Place - Michael Key)

 

In order to be able to continue modeling, he now needs the exact location of the SRB Forward Attachment Points, as well as the location of the LO2 Feedline (Ø 17'') and of the GO2 and GH2 Pressure Lines (Ø 2'') , shown in this drawing. a040.gif

 

9czRyt.jpg
Source: Lockheed Martin (System Definition Handbook SLWT - Vol. II)

 

The only question is whether or how well the details of the Shuttle Stack from the Airfix Kit match this original drawing, or not. denknf8.gif 

 

In order to be able to check these details on the shuttle stack, I had to disassemble my previously provisionally taped Test-stack rolleyes.gif and then to attach the kit supports at the SRB on the ET-Attachment Ring to determine the exact position of the coupling point on the Intertank.

 

UHzSyj.jpg

 

AdhDZj.jpg

 

With the glued supports, the location of the SRB on the ET was now fixed exactly,

 

ZXhune.jpg

and could be marked again.

 

pgutk4.jpg

 

After that, I was amazed that my border of the front SRB docking pad, previously marked with tape on the test stack, was sitting actually a bit too deep,   huh.gif which could now be corrected.  

 

wDHdGm.jpg

 

woVCbP.jpg


Then I still determined the location of the LO2 feedline on the Intertank and was pleasantly surprised that the angle of 23° matches with the value in the above drawing. top.gif

 

tJAWje.jpg

 

However, what is less consistent with the original is the spartan version of the feedline itself and the lack of coverage (Fairing).

 

G70rYC.jpg
Source: NASA

 

This has been realized much better by Revell on their ET-Intertank, as you can see here at the ET of my recently unexpectedly deceased friend Thomas from Bavaria, whose Real Space Modeling estate was taken over by me. 

 

i0qnhZ.jpg


In view of this, after careful consideration and in coordination with his wife and son, I have come to the conclusion that it would be also in his sense to at least partly preserve his model-building heritage, when I would integrate some of his assemblies and parts, e.g. the already LED illuminated FSS platforms and the Hammerhead Crane as well as the PE staircases for the tower, etc. into my model and would thus be able to document and honor his awesome modeling work and skills for everyone visibly posthumously. - May he rest in peace ...

 

And here finally the distance of the coupling point for Michael Key, which lies approximately in the middle. top2.gif 

 

Qa8JX0.jpg

 

At this point, a continuous inner tube is foreseen into which I will later insert a brass rod (Ø 2 mm) to stabilize the SRBs. up040577.gif

 

up060359.jpg
Source: Shapeways.com (The Aerospace Place - Michael Key)

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Thanks Rich for your great compliment, lob3.gif

one only has to search long enough and should never give up, s-boese-wand02.gifthen one will also find the right sources for scratch building of those details. top2.gif

 

Therefore the report about the investigation of the Intertank Stringer Cracks with the exact stringer dimensions was finally the key for the 3D modeling of the intertank structure. up040577.gif

 

 

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Hello everybody,

 

in the direct comparison of the two ETs I noticed that the Revell IT is about three millimeters further back than on the Airfix ET,  huh.gif while the lengths and diameters are almost identical.

 

FnXvYF.jpg

 

And because we are comparing the two stack kits, I also looked at the SRBs a bit more closely and also found some differences. cool.gif

 

9PV5Xy.jpg

 

Apart from the smaller number of lower rings, the Revell-SRB appears less filigree than the Airfix SRB, particularly caused by the larger Aft Skirt Hold-down Posts and the sturdier supports on the ET Attachment Ring, although the diameters are comparable.

 

If one compares the two undersides of the Aft Skirts, one will notice that the ring-shaped heat shield on the Airfix SRB is too narrow-breasted, which Revell has not solve optimally, but at least better, 

 

SVU0tl.jpg

 

what the comparison with this picture makes clear, even if it is just a Mock-up on the KSC grounds.  rolleyes.gif

 

UHUO0A.jpg
Source: NASA

 

Probably that has animated my ARC friend Bill (niart17) to 3D-modeling of his Heat shields (1:72).gruebel.gif

 

rCDvm7.jpg
Source: shapeways.com (niParts)

 

But neither the heat shield of the Mock-up nor the 3D printing are perfect, as the original consists of 24 segments, as one can see in this drawing. 

 

8t5lGF.jpg
Source: Space Transportation System - HAER No. TX-116

 

And so it is also with the kits, no one is perfect, everyone has their advantages and disadvantages. up040577.gif

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I built the revell shuttle with SRBs and ET and heavily detailed all of them using this set http://mek.kosmo.cz/newware/nw131.htm which has lots of corrections and upgrades and comes with decent placement details plus the website has alot of useful photos.   

 

I also needed the decals from here http://www.lakecountyspaceport.com/new-space-model-product-listings.html and could not fault these either I used the Late Era Shuttle Orbiter AFRSI & White Tile Decal Set and Space Shuttle Orbiter Standard Black Tile Decal Set .

 

 

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Hello everybody,

 

now, of course, the question araises, how one could preferably scratch this heat shield, has anyone from the round possibly a useful tip? hmmm.gif

 

Here also still an original photo, whereby these foam insulation under the rings in the early missions did not exist then. i5684_no2.gif

 

MMOUMF.jpg
Source: NASA

 

Or I could try to model such a half ring, e.g. by using Epoxie Sculpt on a circular ring from Sheet. denknf8.gif

 

The easiest way would be for sure if I could motivate Michael Key to model such heat shields in 1/144 for 3D printing, similar as my friend Bill (niart17) made it in 1/72, although I do not necessarily want to overwhelm him with further extra wishes. rolleyes.gif

 

So, what else are there for suggestions or ideas? einfall.gif

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On 17.12.2017 at 9:03 PM, PZRGREN said:

I built the revell shuttle with SRBs and ET and heavily detailed all of them using this set http://mek.kosmo.cz/newware/nw131.htm which has lots of corrections and upgrades and comes with decent placement details plus the website has alot of useful photos.   

 

I also needed the decals from here http://www.lakecountyspaceport.com/new-space-model-product-listings.html and could not fault these either I used the Late Era Shuttle Orbiter AFRSI & White Tile Decal Set and Space Shuttle Orbiter Standard Black Tile Decal Set .

 

 

 

Thank you for your advice on the Newware Detail set for the 1/144 Revell Shuttle stack and the Decal sets by Steven Jochums, which I know, but I lost sight of it. :rolleyes:

 

BTW, have you a building report of your Shuttle stack, and how would you rate the quality of the kit, especially of the resin parts? hmmm.gif

 

It would be very interesting to see the details and decals on your model. up040577.gif

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Hello friends,

 

BTW, after I've measured the SRB in the last photo again more exactly, I still hit on another idea. top.gif

 

Make one out of two!  top2.gif


I also still have a Revell Stack from the kit and could combine its Aft Skirt-Ring, which does not look too bad, with the Airfix Disc. speak_cool.gif

 

3wR4Fy.jpg


And I would imagine that the result could well become a useful compromise. up040577.gif

 

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The Germans have a world wide reputation for fine German engineering. It will be fun to watch you cut this into 24 separate parts and get them mounted.

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Thanks Rich for the nice compliments, :worthy:

 

Donald Trump would say, "Only Fake-News!". 00000016.gif

 

But before I start with this, I want to wait some time, because my friend Joe from the ARC Forum has offered his help to try to model this part in 1:144 for 3D printing. speak_cool.gif

 

These are the parts of the Airfix SRB & Aft Skirt,

 

dBWhxk.jpg

 

and here is my little sketch of the ASTC, technically known as the Aft Skirt Thermal Curtain,

 

s8HzZU.jpg

 

which is desribed in this interesting report SRB Thermal Curtain Design Supportup045518.gif

 

The ASTC is a flexible, high temperature, cloth and insulation composite that is used to protect the hardware located inside the aft skirt of the SRB, which consists of nine layers of insulating materials and is 2.58 inches thick. The ASTC is made up of twenty four segments, which are hand sewn together during installation on the aft skirt, eek.gif what one can see here.

 

J62r1Y.jpg
Source: NASA

 

In this report there are some interesting drawings oft the ASTC, which might be helpful during 3D modeling of this detail.

 

sQRuh6.jpg

 

utECyW.jpg

 

That's why I'm thinking, that the segments should be more curved than in my friend Bill's 3D model (1:72), where they are more flat. gruebel.gif

 

rCDvm7.jpg
Source: shapeways.com (niParts)

 

In my opinion White Strong & Flexible should be a good choise for the 3D print.

 

Now I can only hope, that my friend Joe can come up with a good approach. up040577.gif

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Hello everyone,

 

because that just now fits in well, so the ASTCs look like, respectively what remained of them after a launch. eek.gif

 

UocSs4.jpg
Source: trn.trains.com (Route of the Rockets)

 

This great photo from the salvage of the SRBs has been posted by a girlfriend from Papermodelers forum, which was a crucial help in solving one of my last riddles with a strange equipment on the inner walls of the SRB Exhaust Chambers of the MLP.

 

When looking at the circled detail of this photo, I immediately recalled, because this item is strangely wrapped on many photos, as one can see here.

 

up051926.jpg
Source: NASA

 

Here one can detect a little bit more,

 

ukc9BM.jpg
Source: NASA

 

and here one can see it under the SRB Aft Skirt,

 

qdO26B.jpg
Source: NASA

 

in direct contact with the above circled interface, and both parts are like chalk and cheese. top.gif

 

ubLbJT.jpg

 

But nevertheless the question remains, as to what these devices were used for and whether they existed from the start, or whether they were eventually retrofitted? hmmm.gif

BTW, from time to time such ASTC segments even appear in the "Bay", it's hard to believe ... erschrocken3.gif

 

s-l500.jpg
Source: ebay.com

 

So friends, at this point I want to remind you once again of my Christmas decorated MLP from the previous year,

 

up054207.jpg

 

and wish you all 117C46~111.GIF

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