AndyC Posted August 26, 2012 Share Posted August 26, 2012 (edited) Hi all I'm going to be chipping in with...another C-17! I've ordered the Xtradecal 'Overseas' C-17 sheet which has the RAF a/c on it as this is the US version. Not done any 144th since I was a teen, so should be a good experience. Still not decided which of the three options to do (wheels up, down and down with doors open). Should be starting this in the next fortnight - there is quite a bit of research to do first Ta for looking Edited November 7, 2012 by AndyC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cuprar Posted August 26, 2012 Share Posted August 26, 2012 Hi Andy, how about gear up and cargo door open? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deacon Posted August 26, 2012 Share Posted August 26, 2012 Great to have you making this up. I'll be able to take tips off you. Will you be using the resin flaps on your build mate? I sent a pm, but I don't think it got to you. Deacon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyC Posted August 26, 2012 Author Share Posted August 26, 2012 Hmm...with a pallet ready to drop...would save painting all those wheels! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyC Posted August 26, 2012 Author Share Posted August 26, 2012 Great to have you making this up. I'll be able to take tips off you. Will you be using the resin flaps on your build mate? I sent a pm, but I don't think it got to you. Should be the other way round! No, no resin @ the moment but I'll have a think. The kit only cost me a tenner, so... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyC Posted October 4, 2012 Author Share Posted October 4, 2012 Right...decisions have been made! This will be built buttoned up, in flight. I have ordered the base and perspex rod. The Xtradecal sheet has arrived and that looks good. Once I have also worked out the attachment method for the rod into the body of the jet, I can see this coming together quite quickly. I will probably get a 99 Sqn patch for the base and apply my mini H4H decal as well. It looks a nice kit but I haven't the time to lavish on detailing the innards and painting all the undercarriage etc (what a wimp) I have started it anyway - pics later Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warris Posted October 4, 2012 Share Posted October 4, 2012 Sounds like a good plan Andy, will be hanging onto the undercarriage? Al Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Romeo Alpha Yankee Posted October 5, 2012 Share Posted October 5, 2012 ... Once I have also worked out the attachment method for the rod into the body of the jet, I can see this coming together quite quickly. ... I use styrene tube (inside diameter = diameter of tube), drill a hole equal to the outside diameter of the tube into the bottom of the jet, insert and secure tube with glue. Wait for the glue to set and trim/sand the tube flush. Sometimes some filling is required depending how tidy I am with the hole creation process. Looking forward to your pictures... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyC Posted October 5, 2012 Author Share Posted October 5, 2012 I use styrene tube (inside diameter = diameter of tube), drill a hole equal to the outside diameter of the tube into the bottom of the jet, insert and secure tube with glue. Wait for the glue to set and trim/sand the tube flush. Sometimes some filling is required depending how tidy I am with the hole creation process. I am using 12mm rod - sounds OK but drilling that size hole will be tricky. I have seen articles on heating a copper/brass pipe and pressing it into the plastic underside of the model to make the hole - sounds fraught with possibilities of disaster Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Romeo Alpha Yankee Posted October 5, 2012 Share Posted October 5, 2012 (edited) The largest rod size I work with for 1/72 and larger 1/144 models is 6mm, the rod is strong enought to handle the weight. I think 12mm is overkill for a C-17 in 1/144. Here is a shot of my 1/144 B707 Tanker on 6mm rod.... and my 1/72 B707 Tanker on 6mm rod... inside with a little reinforcing outside after clean up finished in company with a 1/144 B707 When drilling larger holes I start with a small drill and work my way up to the size I need if that helps. Good luck which ever way you go. Edited October 5, 2012 by TrojanThunder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyC Posted October 5, 2012 Author Share Posted October 5, 2012 (edited) You're probably right TT - I actually use the 12mm rod because I usually model in 1/48 which I will need for that scale. I was just being a bit tight and avoid having to buy another metre of thinner rod (as I'm unlikely to model in 1/144 again for tor the foreseeable future)! Edited October 5, 2012 by AndyC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kallisti Posted October 10, 2012 Share Posted October 10, 2012 I use 8mm acrylic rod and 9mm brass tube inside the model. Did this on both the Alien Dropship and Stingray. Usually requires a bit of sanding to the acrylic rod to fit in the brass tube but I don't mind doing that to make sure its a snug fit without being too tight! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyC Posted October 10, 2012 Author Share Posted October 10, 2012 I use 8mm acrylic rod and 9mm brass tube inside the model. Did this on both the Alien Dropship and Stingray. Usually requires a bit of sanding to the acrylic rod to fit in the brass tube but I don't mind doing that to make sure its a snug fit without being too tight! Cheers for that - I'd had a re-think anyway and sourced some 12mm OD Aluminium tube locally (just under 10mm ID) and got some 10mm OD rod off eBay - I will sand the rod to fit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyC Posted October 11, 2012 Author Share Posted October 11, 2012 OK - a start has been made! I'm conscious that time is creeping on and I'm going to try and push this on a bit As it's going to be buttoned up and in baby scale, I gave the cockpit a coat of Blue/Grey and painted the seats to give an impression of seat cushions The cocoon forming the inner 'sleeve' was glued up and around I glued the wings and sanded them. After the above discussions (thanks for everyone's suggestions) I went for the aluminium tube, pine base and 10mm perspex rod. I have sanded the rod to fit the tube which ahs now been cut. I drilled a 10mm hole in the separate belly piece using a 10mm wood drill bit and my cordless drill/driver I then marked up a location to drill for the hole in the cocoon belly. Once that was drilled it was roughly widened to 12mm to take the Alu tube So far so OK! Thanks for looking Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyC Posted October 19, 2012 Author Share Posted October 19, 2012 Hi all - some more progress. I have to say that this is a DOG of a kit - it's ruining my enjoyment of the build and is bottom of the pile for modelling fun so far this year. Lots of flash and the fit is a shocker. If it wasn't for the GB it would have been chucked before now. The 12mm tube was fixed into the internal 'sock' of the fuselage with Araldite Here is the 10mm rod dry fitted to the base Finally got the fuselage halves glued with a lot of brute force and bad language - there will be a LOT of filler on this I think In pressing the halves together, the starboard nose window has dislodged and gone - dunno where so I'll have to use Krystal Klear on the gap. The belly plate will be glued on tomorrow and the filling and sanding started. Thanks for looking Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Romeo Alpha Yankee Posted October 19, 2012 Share Posted October 19, 2012 This model can build up into a nice one with a little care. Keep on it Andy, I'm sure it will turn out a goood one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnonymousDFB1 Posted October 20, 2012 Share Posted October 20, 2012 Keep at it Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wellzy Posted October 25, 2012 Share Posted October 25, 2012 Nice one Andy ,she`s looking good Les Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyC Posted October 30, 2012 Author Share Posted October 30, 2012 Hi all I'm sticking with this build even though I have been seriously close to binning it! After a lot of filling and sanding (the fuselage parts are warped - not sure if this is common in this kit?) I have managed to get the fuselage into some sort of reasonable state. There will be some heavy re-scribing to do The previously glued wings were attached. The winglets were also glued and also the tailplanes. The tailplanes were a perfect fit - the wings not so. The location tabs forced the leading edge too far forward so I ahd to do some trimming and dry fitting to achieve a good join - even then, filler was needed. The u/c doors and u/c pods were glued in place, the gaps filled with Mr Surfacer 500 and rubbed down I started on the engines - intending to paint the metal parts and mask when putting the main paint on. I painted Mr Metal Dark Iron to the jet pipe and Iron to the bypass duct. These were allowed to dry and then attacked with a stiff toothbrush and cloth to polish them up - quite a striking difference once done... I have one last rub down of seams on the fuselage to do and then the re-scribe. I will glue the engines bit together over the next couple of days and glue them in place ready for masking and priming. Overall coat of Neutral Grey after some pre-shading, I think. Thanks for looking Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Romeo Alpha Yankee Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 Nice to see you sticking with it, you will overcome! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyC Posted October 31, 2012 Author Share Posted October 31, 2012 Nice to see you sticking with it, you will overcome! Well now I've come this far it would be rude not to! Time is the enemy now... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wellzy Posted November 1, 2012 Share Posted November 1, 2012 Yeah Bud you can do it Les Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyC Posted November 1, 2012 Author Share Posted November 1, 2012 Yeah Bud you can do it No photos yet but managed to get... Engines and nacelles glued and fixed to wings Engines painted and masked ready for primer Final rub-down of seams Primer on engine fronts ready for aluminium Unfortunately I'm now away on business until Saturday pm - only leaves Sunday all day, Monday evening and Thursday evening to get primed, touch-up of areas (there are ALWAYS areas), aluminium to wing leading edges, APU surround, painted Neutral Grey, decals on and sealed and photographed! Better get to it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyC Posted November 5, 2012 Author Share Posted November 5, 2012 Last post before RFI...think I'm going to make it! Model was primed and then Alclad sprayed to the leading edges, APU surround and nacelle fronts. The leading edges and APU surround were masked and then Tamiya Neutral Grey sprayed - it's a tad lighter than Halford's primer but they are close. The masking was removed and then Alclad Klear Kote Gloss was sprayed ready for decalling. I then took off the masks on the clear bits. Hopefully, decals on in the next couple of nights and it HAS to be finished no later than Thursday evening. Ta for looking! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessica Posted November 7, 2012 Share Posted November 7, 2012 I recommend leaving the engines off until after painting. That way you'll be able to deal with masking off the bare metal portions of the leading edges much more easily, and it also makes the engines easier to paint as well. The fit of the pylons should be good enough that you won't need to do much fussing (but do test fit to make sure ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts