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1:48 Scale Aircraft Hangar Diorama


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Would most likely have been riveted together as well, now that would be a nice project for you!

Hmmm, I'm working this Saturday but do I need to take a camera and do a walkaround when I'm at Baginton next Saturday? :lol:

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Hmmm, I'm working this Saturday but do I need to take a camera and do a walkaround when I'm at Baginton next Saturday? :lol:

Hi, that's a very generous offer. I think I will give representing rivets in 1:48 scale a miss, but some photos of general interior "hangar clutter" would be great.

Many thanks.

:giles:

Darius

Edited by Darius at Home
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No problem. Wish now that I'd taken photos of the Dragon Rapide that was having a bare frame rebuild 18 months ago. I really deserve a slap for that lost opportunity.

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The more I look at this thread, the more I want one!

Same here. Just had a look at the GPM website, the hangar kit itself is a good price, UK shipping cost is nearly double the kit price though. Seriously tempted......

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Same here. Just had a look at the GPM website, the hangar kit itself is a good price, UK shipping cost is nearly double the kit price though. Seriously tempted......

Hi Peter

I have just had two Kits , one 1/72 and one 1/48 . The webshop in Poland creddited my paypal back with £7.50 as they said on calculation the postage was cheaper.

Can bring one to the club night for inspection.

Regards Alistair

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Hi Peter

I have just had two Kits , one 1/72 and one 1/48 . The webshop in Poland creddited my paypal back with £7.50 as they said on calculation the postage was cheaper.

Can bring one to the club night for inspection.

Regards Alistair

Yes please Alistair, though I've taken the plunge on a 1/48th one. Couldn't resist any longer!!

ATB P

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Yes please Alistair, though I've taken the plunge on a 1/48th one. Couldn't resist any longer!!

ATB P

When building the roof truss I would strongly recommend using plasticard splices to strengthen the butt joint between the half truss pieces. I would also recommend adding the extra diagonal and longitudinal bracing using strips cut from the spare cardboard "frets". I will take some photos to show where they should be placed. They really do a good job of strengthening and stiffening the roof truss assembly.

Evo Stick white woodworking glue works well on the cardboard to cardboard joints with cyano on the plastic to cardboard joints. Also, if the carbards starts to delaminate or gets bent out of shape, get it back into shape and "dribble" cyano glue into the edge of the damaged cardboard. It will soak in and set it like concrete.

Like Gremlins, don't let the gardboard get wet... Unfortunate consequences will ensue.

Just adding the roof cladding to the truss now.

:giles:

Darius

Edited by Darius at Home
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When building the roof truss I would strongly recommend using plasticard splices to strengthen the butt joint between the half truss pieces. I would also recommend adding the extra diagonal and longituding bracing using strips cut from the spare cardboard "frets". I will take some photos to show where they should be placed. They really do a good job of strengthening and stiffening the roof truss assembly.

Evo Stick white woodworking glue works well on the cardboard to cardboard joints with cyano on the plastic to cardboard joints. Also, if the carbards starts to delaminate or gets bent out of shape, get it back into shape and "dribble" cyano glue into the edge of the damaged cardboard. It will soak in and set it like concrete.

Like Gremlins, don't let the gardboard get wet... Unfortunate consequences will ensue.

Just adding the roof cladding to the truss now.

:giles:

Darius

Thanks Darius, any pointers will be very helpful.

I've built several Superquick card models so know a bit about the problems you can get. Have found having a Pritt Stick handy is of great use at times as well. You can disguise edges with a 2B pencil or felt tip, also of use to add weathering etc.

Yours is looking great, look forward to seeing it complete.

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Roof on today!!!

The kit contains enough cladding for one and a half roofs so I used the "spare" cladding sheet to clad the roof centre section. This provides a base for the cladding proper and strengthens the central joint between them. I sprayed the embossed side of the roof cladding sheets with Halfords grey primer followed by a coat of Halfords "Rover Tempest Grey".

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Once the paint was dry the sheets were glued on with white glue applied to the tops of the curved trusses. A wet cloth cleaned up any excess glue runs.

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Once the glue has cured overnight I plan to add cardboard strips to the cladding edges, leaving a gap between strips and the faces of the end trusses that will "trap" the cardboard hangar walls, which tend to bow out a bit when not restrained.

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:giles:

Darius

PS - earlier I sprayed the unclad roof truss assembly with Halfords white primer to give it a nice light interior feel.

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The roof is now finished save for gutters and downpipes. I added some more external pqc hardstanding areas using cardboard off-cuts and a grassed area using model railway grass matting.

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Next on the agenda will be the hangar doors and the supporting top track.

:giles:

Darius

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I called in at Baginton on the way home last night, but I need to get a lead for my camera! The hangers there have pitched roofs and the structure is bolted. Am popping into Stratford later and will try and get a cable from Jessops.

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I called in at Baginton on the way home last night, but I need to get a lead for my camera! The hangers there have pitched roofs and the structure is bolted. Am popping into Stratford later and will try and get a cable from Jessops.

Many thanks for taking the time to do this -I really appreciate it!! :) The construction phase is approaching completion. The fit-out phase will follow.

:giles:

Darius

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For anyone building this kit here is the position of the additional bracing that I added using 5mm deep strips of the thicker cardboard that was supplied with the kit. The strips were cut over length and then trimmed to fit.

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The diaginal bracing is shown in red and the longitudinal members are shown in blue. All of the diagonal bracing is fixed to the lower (flat) part of the truss. The longitudinal bracing is provided to the lower (flat) and upper (curved) parts of the truss. I added the longitudinal members first and then trimmed the diagonal bracing to fit. All the bracing was fixed using white glue. Any damage or delamination was "fixed" using cyano glue.

:giles:

Darius

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Construction of the building is now complete. I added the door top track and the door panels and made box gutters using more of the cardboard offcuts. Contrail tubing formed the downpipes.

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:giles:

Darius

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Now that's just showing off!!!

Excellent model(s) and photography there Darius, presume the "lamps" are LED's?

Thanks Dave, nothing so sophisticated as LEDs. They are old fashioned "grain of wheat" bulbs modified from 00 gauge model railway street lights and wired up in parallel. Some delicate soldering was required to avoid burning holes in the cardboard structure!!!

:giles:

Darius

Edited by Darius at Home
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