cmatthewbacon Posted May 17, 2012 Share Posted May 17, 2012 (edited) I decided it might be a fun "compare and contrast" to build two of the Ferraris that have been in the stash for longer than they should have been: the Revell 458 Italia, and the Gunze Sangyo 250SWB Berlinetta. The 458 Italia is going to be in a yellow-ish colour scheme; the 250SWB, hopefully, in the dark blue Rob Walker racing colours driven by Stirling Moss. However, I might cheat and NOT try to switch the car from LH to RH drive, because unlike the GTO, the subtly curved dash of the 250 SWB will be pretty hard to flip! Here's the starting line! The 250SWB doesn't look TOO small by comparison... There is one thing I've been dreading with the 250SWB, which is one of the reasons why it has lingered in the stash for as long it has. The distinctive "egg-crate" grille is built up out of 17 individual interlocking pieces of photo-etch. It's a bit of a "make or break" element for this build, and since it's a standalone assembly, I thought I'd get it out of the way first, to face my demons and remove the scary influence it was having on me... I read a few online reviews and builds (few and far between, I must say) and one thing I took away was that the instructions are unhelpful and the slats don't fit in the sequence suggested. To hold the parts as I assembled them, I stuck some Tamiya masking tape tacky side up onto a piece of perspex with double sided tape. Then, I drew around the interior of the grille frame (a chromed part) so I could see the "square hole" that the "round peg" was going to have to fit into. I placed the central verticals either side of the centreline. BE WARNED: the places where you bend the slats at 90 degrees are marked at one end with a slot, and at the other with two holes. The "two-hole" ends MUST go at the BOTTOM of the grille. The folded ends also all fold toward the centreline. It's pretty clear looking at the shape, where the LONGEST slats need to fit. The fold-up ends on the slightly shorter one needed to be adjusted slightly so it fitted below the longer one. The etch-mate/hold n fold (I can't remember which one it is) doesn't come out very often these days, but when it does, it's invaluable. It'd be VERY hard to do all these 90 degree bends in pretty hard etch with out something like it. I'm glad I remembered I'd got one! The shortest slat is clearly at the bottom. Then it's a matter of trial and error with the other three to get as close as you can to the outline of the hole. I know already it's not going to fit first time, but, since I was stripping the chrome anyway, I'd rather slightly reshape the interior of the grille frame until it fits than mess around trying to trim and re-bend the metal parts. When all the horizontals were in place, I applied medium viscosity superglue to the joins with a pin, and once it had set, VERY carefully, lifting by the verticals (which are UNDER the horizontals at every join), I eased the whole thing up and flipped it over back onto the tape. Then I applied the rest of the verticals, a pair at a time, working outwards, and gluing each one as it was put in place. DON'T FORGET: the two hole bends go at the bottom and the bent tabs go toward the centre. (I'm saying it twice 'cos it's a pain in the **** if you get it wrong. If you look carefully at the photos above, you can see that I started with the centre verticals the wrong way up. Thank goodness for debonder). I did it by bending the first of each pair and putting it in the place where it fitted (the first one you bend will always go on one side or the other), and then working out carefully which way the second one would have to bend to go in the remaining slot... Finally, I eased the whole assemble gently off the tape with my flat Stanley-knife blade from the bending kit, and that horrible job is mostly done (I won't count it finished until I have adapted the frame and got the grille to sit nicely inside it...) Apologies for the length of this post, but I couldn't find any assembly sequence for this beastie online, so I hope it will help others. Thanks to the various people who offered advice before I started -- even if I didn't take it all on board, it was all helpful to get me thinking about how best to do it! bestest, M. Edited May 17, 2012 by cmatthewbacon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesP Posted May 17, 2012 Share Posted May 17, 2012 (edited) I know which of the two cars I prefer Have you polished plastic already as they both look very shiny? I'm glad to see that you managed to pull of the grille with your usual aplomb Matt. BTW when I searched for the GS kit I came across this excellent site for the modelling Tifosi http://italianhorses.net/ Edited May 17, 2012 by JamesP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richellis Posted May 17, 2012 Share Posted May 17, 2012 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted May 18, 2012 Author Share Posted May 18, 2012 I think I may be going to have some issues with clear parts: These 250 SWB windows have clearly been rattling about in the bag through several owners and international journeys! I have Micromesh and Novus polish, though, so I'm sure they are fixable! This, however, is going to be more of a challenge. I've spoken to a nice lady in Revell Germany's UK office, and she's taken my details and promised that a replacement clear tree will be with me in 4-6 weeks. Fortunately, on this kit, the 458 windscreen drops in from outside, late in the build, so it shouldn't stop me doing anything except attaching the windscreen wipers... Still, both things I could do without! bestest, M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bengalensis Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 I have always had good help from Revell over the years and received all parts and decals quite fast (although I have gone through German office) so I think you will get a new windscreen without trouble. Let's hope you have the same experience as I have. Just wish all manufacturers were like that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted May 18, 2012 Author Share Posted May 18, 2012 (edited) Fingers-crossed, Jorgen... This makes me feel a whole lot more comfortable with this build! Grille frame painted with Humbrol Acrylic spray Metalcote Polished Aluminium over Tamiya Fine Surface Primer. There's a little more tidying up to do, but I'm happy that the part that I was most worried about is now there or thereabouts. I'm sure there's lots of other things to mess up, but I'm reasonably confident that the grille won't derail the rest of the build now! bestest, M. Edited May 18, 2012 by cmatthewbacon 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted May 20, 2012 Author Share Posted May 20, 2012 (edited) Windows cleaned up nicely: Light sanding with my finest grade sanding sponge, and then Novus polish, working through all three grades. Body sprayed with Tamiya Dark Blue. It's hard to see the colour clearly, but it IS blue, honest. I'll be leaving that to cure in the airing cupboard until next weekend before polishing it. You can probably just about see that I opened up the bonnet scoop - I can't find many pictures of 250SWBs with the mesh screen that Gunze provides, and lots, including the Rob Walker car, which just have an open intake. This is the dash in progress. It too is dark blue, with black leather on the top. The etched instruments are beautifully done - sprayed black and then lightly sanded to take the paint off the raised detail, and they look superb. Unfortunately, they are ever so slightly too big! Hence the blu-tak supporting them in their bezels. I'll use white glue to fix them and then Klear to add the "glass". One of the little swine has pinged into the distance, as well, which means I'll have to make one... And finally... I _have_ been working on the 458 as well. This has had the mould seam removed (and a broken A-pillar remedied - it hadn't cracked quite right through, but it clearly been crushed at the top. This box must be over-filled, with both this and the windscreen damaged..) This is in white primer. I'd hoped to get the yellow on this weekend, but ran out of time. bestest, M. Edited May 20, 2012 by cmatthewbacon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted June 5, 2012 Author Share Posted June 5, 2012 (edited) It's been a long time.... I've been travelling, but with a long weekend and half-term break in prospect, I can actually get back to the bench occasionally... Unfortunately, I've just discovered that my Zero 2K hardener has, well, hardened, so this bodyshell is going no further until urgent supplies arrive from Hiroboy! Time to crack on with the interior, I reckon... bestest, M. Edited June 5, 2012 by cmatthewbacon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyC Posted June 5, 2012 Share Posted June 5, 2012 Not a car builder (yet) but that is beautiful work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu_davros Posted June 5, 2012 Share Posted June 5, 2012 Outstanding work on the Ferrari's, I have the 458 on the shelf so I'll be watching with interest. Cheers, Stuart Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted June 5, 2012 Author Share Posted June 5, 2012 Thanks, guys! Made some more progress today... The 250 SWB wheels are cracking. The tyres, less so. I've replaced these with some spares from a Heller E-type (which, in turn, will be wearing Tamiya Jag MkII wire wheels and tyres). They are the same (and correct for a 250 SWB) 185/15s all round, unlike the GTO tyres which Gunze would have you use, which are noticeably bigger at the back... Dashboard is finally done. I lost one of the little dials, but I defy you to spot it in this shot, and it's not even inside yet! Making progress on the interior. Chassis is trimmed as needed (the GTO uses the same white metal piece, but is longer in the nose). Blue seats, blue carpets... In the background, I've also made the necessary alterations to the WM rear axle and brakes to get the narrower track vs the GTO (all in the instructions, but a DIY job), and progressed the 458s engine and wheels... bestest, M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted June 6, 2012 Author Share Posted June 6, 2012 Moving on with the 458 in parallel... Three stages to a "carbon" diffuser. I've moved on from the ribbon, and now have a square metre of toile fabric and some tacky repositionable "Spray Mount" glue. Sprayed one side of the fabric and cut it up to fit the complex diffuser shape; sprayed Zero "Graphite Grey" over the satin black base; then Tamiya TS-13 Clear to finish. Rather that than decal something this shape, I'll tell you! Engine has few parts, but paints up nicely, especially when you near in mind how buried it is! The intake manifold and "carbon" airbox. The intake manifold has received a coat of Plastikote Velvet, then Tamiya Italian red, then finally matt varnish to get the "crackle" textured effect. This carbon is black over graphite grey, just for variety. I'll need to sharpen up the logos on the covers, but I'll do that when I stop handling it (the pipework between the air box and manifolds needs painting yet...) Now on with some modern wheels! bestest, M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted June 7, 2012 Author Share Posted June 7, 2012 And here are those wheels: They're painted in Zero paints Graphite Grey, which is a good match for the Grigio Ferro Metallic option. Revell's wheel construction is strictly incorrect -- there's no interior "spider" at the back, but it's virtually invisible, and I've helped the effect along by painting the "spokes" matt black. They should be very hard to see once the wheels are inside the wheel wells. Ferrari badges are aftermarket as are the tyres -- Pegasus Sport pilots, which are a more realistic sidewall height than the thick offerings in the box. The brake disc detail is crude, but close-up photos like this exaggerate the effect. I'm sure it'll look OK as part of the overall "picture"... The first real "compare and contrast" moment. The outside diameter of the wheels is very similar, despite 15" rims on the 250SWB and 20" rims on the 458. The huge difference in width is apparent, too... bestest, M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madmonk Posted June 7, 2012 Share Posted June 7, 2012 That carbon fibre effect looks stunning, will have to give that a try on one of the F1 cars, will save a fortune in CF decals. Where did you get the fabric from? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giorgio N Posted June 7, 2012 Share Posted June 7, 2012 Great build ! The contrast between the two is also impressive... and it's impressive to think of those pilots who raced a car on 185 tyres ! The SWB is probably my favourite 250, looking forward to see how this progresses Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted June 7, 2012 Author Share Posted June 7, 2012 Thanks, guys... the fabric is from Boyes, for you Northerners who have one! £1.99 a metre, which will last for ever... 250 SWB chassis making progress. Getting the back end together is not trivial... I took several photos because the instructions aren't entirely clear! Your best bet for locating the axle is the springs, which fit solidly onto pins at each end. Do NOT glue the torsion bars in pace at the end of the chassis. The springs are a push fit, which may come in useful... I fitted one side spring, then slipped the torsion bars in place and located the end of the axle in the spring. The torsion bars need to be more or less in place, or else you can't rotate them into position. But don't glue anything yet! Finally, I pushed the other spring into place, which hold it all nicely. If the torsion bars won't just "fall" into place, the you'll have to pull a spring off and do it again -- don't ask me how I know. The props haft can slide within the differential, so I located last of all. Once everything is snugly press-fitted, and sits nicely, use thin superglue to set it all in place... And here's two chassis at more or less the same stage... bestest, M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smiffy Posted June 7, 2012 Share Posted June 7, 2012 Great progress. Love the carbon effect and the finish on the 250 is superb. The SWB is probably my favourite 250 Same here. I never managed to get hold of the Gunze kit and they seem to go for silly money now. I do have a couple of old Esci versions in the stash. They're a bit rough, but with a bit of work, I think I can get them looking a bit more like a SWB. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted June 11, 2012 Author Share Posted June 11, 2012 Slow progress, but now everything is very shiny! The 458 is finished in Zero 2K Clear - no polishing yet. The 250 is Tamiya Dark Blue rattle can acrylic, polished with Novus #2. Back to work on the chassis, now... bestest, M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rishi Posted June 11, 2012 Share Posted June 11, 2012 Nice paint finish on both the Ferrari. The Gunze kit plus point is that there is a metal chassis. I dont know how much they sell now a days on ebay. I brought one GTO in 2004 for $125.00 +shipping. There are few kits with full engine like Lotus Elan, 250GTO. And have u seen price on ebay for Gunze bike kits? Ha ha Cheers, Rishi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giorgio N Posted June 16, 2012 Share Posted June 16, 2012 Very nice finish ! One thing I noticed looking at this thread is how relatively little sophisticated were the early Ferraris. I'm sure that others had much better suspensions than the SWB. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted June 16, 2012 Author Share Posted June 16, 2012 (edited) Thanks guys! I was lucky with my 250SWB -- got it from a nice lady in the US for $60! And although the suspension may be unsophisticated, it's a swine to get together! Revell 458 chassis is much more straightforward: And a test fit with the body, which snaps into place beautifully! More time at the workbench this weekend... and many thanks to a fellow car modeller for the donation of one set of Stirling Moss markings from the out of print VRM sheet! bestest, M. Edited June 16, 2012 by cmatthewbacon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noeyedears Posted June 16, 2012 Share Posted June 16, 2012 Nice finish! do you polish the two k clearcoat? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted June 16, 2012 Author Share Posted June 16, 2012 (edited) Thanks! The 2K isn't polished yet, and I doubt I'll do the whole thing -- it looks very glossy. There are a couple of dust spots that I will take out, but that's about it. I'be been making progress on the 250SWB this afternoon: The front suspension is also a little tricky, but with the help of gel superglue and "Serious Glue", which give you rather more time to get it finally in position, here we are. These are the exhaust tips. The middle two have been polished in this picture, by chucking them in my Dremel and spinning them using fine wire wool. And here's the exhaust system in place. It'll need some final adjustment when the body is on to make sure the tips float in the right place. The white metal is surprisingly brittle, I discover! ;-( Finally for today, the two chassis moving along nicely in parallel... bestest, M. Edited June 16, 2012 by cmatthewbacon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted June 17, 2012 Author Share Posted June 17, 2012 Mostly been working on the 250 SWB today: The white base is a ceramic tile, for making sure the wheels all sit square on the ground. ...bit of a traffic jam building up on the bench! bestest, M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted June 29, 2012 Author Share Posted June 29, 2012 It seems like an awful long time since the last update. Partly finding it hard to get to the bench with lots of travelling, but partly I seem to have spent a lot of time painting bits in various shades and layers of black and grey, but making very little visible progress! The engine bay is done. Not many parts, just some basic detail painting, but it looks pretty convincing, I reckon, especially under the rear cover.... I've gone for a "carbon driver zone" and charcoal grey leather. Just the OOB parts with some detail painting. I used Citadel Chaos Black, Vallejo German Grey and the carbon fibre technique for details on the dash and console, the flappy-paddle, and the seat backs. The 250 SWB from a similar angle, for compare and contrast purposes. The two chassis for comparison (The 458 parts are only dropped into place, not fixed -- the engine bay goes into the body shell when it's assembled properly...) bestest, M. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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