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Hawker Hunter F.6, XF526, 4 FTS, RAF Valley


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Hi mates,

 

Now that I've put the F-14 build to bed, I can get started on the Hunter. I'll be using the Revell 1:72 kit, and the Xtradecal sheet 72046 which has the colorful markings of 4 FTS, specifically XF526 at RAF Valley in 1972. I've never built a Hunter before, and can claim no special knowledge other than what's in the box. So I'd like to ask some questions first to make sure I don't make any big mistakes right up front.

 

There appear to be no Sabrinas on this Flying Test School aircraft. Does the Revell kit require any fuselage modifications in the place where the Sabrinas would normally be? It doesn't look like it, as the fuselage seems quite smooth in that area, and the curvature is the same as the surrounding areas.

 

Are the red and white colours glossy? What about the grey that is on the inboard sections of the wings?

 

I'll probably be using Gunze paints on this. Does anyone have any recommendations for paint matches to the red and grey? I think the BS numbers are 381C-537 for the red and 381C-627 for the grey.

 

I have the Quickboost resin air brake. I suspect that this is another one of those things that should be closed while the aircraft is parked, but I sometimes like to keep these open just to add some visual interest. What colour would the inside surface of the air brake and well be?

 

What colour are the wheel well, hubs, and landing gear? The Revell instructions say aluminum, which sounds right to me but better safe than sorry. It wouldn't be the first time that I've had to re-paint after the model was finished!

 

I also have the Eduard PE set with the color zoom for the cockpit, plus some external details. Black is correct for the cockpit and bang seat? The PE also includes lowered landing flaps which I probably won't use, unless one of you talks me into it!

 

Thanks for any other help and advice! Looking forward to my first Hunter!

 

Cheers,

Bill

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Hi mates,

Now that I've put the F-14 build to bed, I can get started on the Hunter. I'll be using the Revell 1:72 kit, and the Xtradecal sheet 72046 which has the colorful markings of 4 FTS, specifically XF526 at RAF Valley in 1972. I've never built a Hunter before, and can claim no special knowledge other than what's in the box. So I'd like to ask some questions first to make sure I don't make any big mistakes right up front.

There appear to be no Sabrinas on this Flying Test School aircraft. Does the Revell kit require any fuselage modifications in the place where the Sabrinas would normally be? It doesn't look like it, as the fuselage seems quite smooth in that area, and the curvature is the same as the surrounding areas.

I've looked at this and all you should need to do is fill the locating dimples for the Sabrinas BUT, as the rear one falls in a panel line you either have to be very careful how you do that or you could ignore it and hope it blends in.

BTW, it's 4 Flying Training School.

Are the red and white colours glossy? What about the grey that is on the inboard sections of the wings?

I'll probably be using Gunze paints on this. Does anyone have any recommendations for paint matches to the red and grey? I think the BS numbers are 381C-537 for the red and 381C-627 for the grey.

Colours would be glossy, can't help you with the Gunze paint matches but this site may help.

I have the Quickboost resin air brake. I suspect that this is another one of those things that should be closed while the aircraft is parked, but I sometimes like to keep these open just to add some visual interest. What colour would the inside surface of the air brake and well be?

Mostly the airbrake should be up on Hunters although I believe it could be lowered for maintenance. It is not unusual to see pictures of Hunters with slightly lowered airbrakes on the ground.

What colour are the wheel well, hubs, and landing gear? The Revell instructions say aluminum, which sounds right to me but better safe than sorry. It wouldn't be the first time that I've had to re-paint after the model was finished!

Wheel wells, hubs and undercarriage components were silver (aluminium). The mainwheels on the Revell kit are undersized, you may not want to do anything about this but then again as you're planning on using some AM stuff in the cockpit etc you might. I'll be using the Aeroclub set V233 to correct mine, if you're having trouble locating it through your normal sources try contacting JohnAero on this site, Aeroclub is his business.

I also have the Eduard PE set with the color zoom for the cockpit, plus some external details. Black is correct for the cockpit and bang seat? The PE also includes lowered landing flaps which I probably won't use, unless one of you talks me into it!

Black is correct. It's not usual to see Hunters with their flaps lowered, I'm not saying it can't be done (it's your model after all).

Thanks for any other help and advice! Looking forward to my first Hunter!

Cheers,

Bill

Good luck, I look forward to seeing it.

Wez

Edited by Wez
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Looking forward to this one Bill. Agree mostly with Wez, don't forget that the cannon troughs will also need to be faired over as well. The outer wing pylons were seldom fitted , so just carried a pair of 100 gallon tanks inboard. As for the colours - the red should be Signal Red - which is brighter than Roundel Red. Don't know Gunze's colour range so can't advise onthat, but I use Games Workshop's/Citadel's Blood Red. The grey is Light Aircraft Grey - again not sure of a direct Gunze comparison.

Photographs suggest that these aircraft's surfaces matted down quite a lot, they would have started off in a glossy finish, but I suspect the weather in North Wales soon took the gloss off! Undercarriage's and bays were matt silver. athe tail pipe ring shiny metal.

As for the airbrakes - normally they wouldn't be seen lowered at the same time as the undercarriage. If both were lowered simultaneously in the air, the pilot would be in big trouble apparently. That said you do see photo's with the airbrakes lower(ing) - as much a result of something going wrong somewhere than anything else!

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Thanks for the quick responses, mates!

 

As it turns out, Gunze makes Light Aircraft Grey BS381C-627. It's their number H332. Although they don't have a direct match for Signal Red, most sites (including the excellent model paint cross reference site provided) say to use H3 Gloss Red. Bill, you mention using Citadel's Blood Red, which would suggest to me a bit darker colour than regular old red. Is that the case? Gunze makes a nice red called "Red Madder" (Japanese English for Angry Red I would guess) that might just fit the bill. And I love that Gunze colour, it's really deep.

 

I also found something on-line about the location of some tubes (cannon eject tubes maybe?) that are in a different position depending on whether or not Sabrinas were ever fitted. Any idea if the particular aircraft that I'm modelling ever had Sabrinas?

 

Some other information that I stumbled upon last night concerned part of the canopy "framing" that was really just a step in the Perspex, and therefore shouldn't be painted along with the rest of the frame. Is that correct for the F.6?

 

I found a picture on Damien's Thunder and Lightnings site that shows XF526 as she sits today in some farmer's field. I think I'll stick to the original plan of making her nice and shiny!

 

Sorry for all the questions! Can't wait to get started on this one! It's a simple little kit, and dry-fitting shows that it should fall together quite easily.

 

Cheers,

Bill

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As for the airbrakes - normally they wouldn't be seen lowered at the same time as the undercarriage. If both were lowered simultaneously in the air, the pilot would be in big trouble apparently. That said you do see photo's with the airbrakes lower(ing) - as much a result of something going wrong somewhere than anything else!

The undercarriage and airbrakes were interlocked so if the airbrake was already 'out' when the u/c was selected 'down', it would automatically retract, so it's not possible to have both airbrake and u/c deployed simultaneously in the air. Clearly this is because of the position of the airbrake which would hit the ground when landing if deployed.

There was an airbrake test switch in the cockpit for use on the ground, but operating it only opened the airbrake for a couple of seconds, then it would snap shut again.

Hunters seen on the ground with the airbrake 'sagging' are generally ones that have been sitting idle for a good while. Once the hydraulic pressure drops off a little, the airbrake will start to droop. In a properly maintained, operational aircraft, the airbrake will be tight shut when the u/c is extended.

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Thanks for the quick responses, mates!

As it turns out, Gunze makes Light Aircraft Grey BS381C-627. It's their number H332. Although they don't have a direct match for Signal Red, most sites (including the excellent model paint cross reference site provided) say to use H3 Gloss Red. Bill, you mention using Citadel's Blood Red, which would suggest to me a bit darker colour than regular old red. Is that the case? Gunze makes a nice red called "Red Madder" (Japanese English for Angry Red I would guess) that might just fit the bill. And I love that Gunze colour, it's really deep.

I also found something on-line about the location of some tubes (cannon eject tubes maybe?) that are in a different position depending on whether or not Sabrinas were ever fitted. Any idea if the particular aircraft that I'm modelling ever had Sabrinas?

Some other information that I stumbled upon last night concerned part of the canopy "framing" that was really just a step in the Perspex, and therefore shouldn't be painted along with the rest of the frame. Is that correct for the F.6?

I found a picture on Damien's Thunder and Lightnings site that shows XF526 as she sits today in some farmer's field. I think I'll stick to the original plan of making her nice and shiny!

Sorry for all the questions! Can't wait to get started on this one! It's a simple little kit, and dry-fitting shows that it should fall together quite easily.

Cheers,

Bill

GW's/Citadel's Blood Red is an excelent match for Signal Red...I used it on my Lightning....its not a "deep" colour. Have a look at photo's of the Red Arrow's - thats the shade you need to be aiming for.....a bright almost flourescent (in rare British summer sun-light!) red.

012.jpg

I find Xtracolor's/Xtracrylic's "Signal/Red Arrows Red" a shade too orange.

All single seater Hunter canopy's were the same, and cannons and ejector chutes were plated over. The F6's used by 4FTS were ex-front line machines so would have had Sabrina's

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Hi mates,

 

One quick question - most photos that I have found on-line of the 4 FTS Hunters seem to show that the pylon ejector fairing (top side of the wing, painted blue because its inside the roundel) is present. It seems to be there regardless of whether the outboard pylon is attached. However, these fairing are not part of the Revell kit. If I don't mount the outboard pylons, can I leave the ejector fairings off, or should I add them?

 

Cheers,

Bill

 

PS. Pix coming soon; pit is finished.

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Hi mates,

One quick question - most photos that I have found on-line of the 4 FTS Hunters seem to show that the pylon ejector fairing (top side of the wing, painted blue because its inside the roundel) is present. It seems to be there regardless of whether the outboard pylon is attached. However, these fairing are not part of the Revell kit. If I don't mount the outboard pylons, can I leave the ejector fairings off, or should I add them?

Cheers,

Bill

PS. Pix coming soon; pit is finished.

I thought that they had the ERU fairings in the kit? They certainly are in the FGA9? You should add them.

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Bill Clark said:
I thought that they had the ERU fairings in the kit? They certainly are in the FGA9? You should add them.

 

That's what I thought, too. I just went back and had a look again. They're not shown in the artwork on the box, they're not shown on the photo in the instructions, and there is no place in the build sequence where they are mentioned. I studied the sprues again in case they are present in spite of all that, but I just don't see them. Having a quick look at the 1:72 Revell WIPs in this group build, I see them on the FGA.9, but not on the F.6. The 1:48 Academy F.6 has them, though.

 

These won't be difficult to add, but since I don't know much about the Hunter, I wanted to ask to make sure! Thanks!

 

This really is a sweet little kit. I'll have to pick up several more copies, as there are a lot of really nice schemes that can be done. Lots of export options, too!

 

Cheers,

Bill

 

PS. What does "ERU" stand for? On the Thunder and Lightnings site, it's referred to as the pylon ejection fairing. So maybe ERU is Eject Rack Unit? :)

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PS. What does "ERU" stand for? On the Thunder and Lightnings site, it's referred to as the pylon ejection fairing. So maybe ERU is Eject Rack Unit? :)

From the RADFAN site...

"ERU

An Ejector Release Unit (ERU) was a device that used a cartridge to eject a store away from an aircraft pylon with a great deal of force. The Hunter ERU was a single piston device which protruded out from the wing directly above the pylon. ERUs were installed in the outboard pylons of the Hunter for use with the SNEB Rocket Pods mod.”

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From the RADFAN site...

"ERU

An Ejector Release Unit (ERU) was a device that used a cartridge to eject a store away from an aircraft pylon with a great deal of force. The Hunter ERU was a single piston device which protruded out from the wing directly above the pylon. ERUs were installed in the outboard pylons of the Hunter for use with the SNEB Rocket Pods mod.”

When I worked on Hunters at Chivenor, we called them Explosive Release Units.

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The ERU was introduced to ensure that certain stores would clear the aircraft cleanly when jettisoned, the clue to their fitment being the bulge on the upper wing covering the breech mechanism. Prior to this, the Hunter was fitted with EMRUs (Electro-Mechanical Release units) which were fully contained in the wing - hence no bulge.

As for the name, "Ejector Release Unit" was the 'proper' name, but I too have heard them referred to as Explosive Release Units in reference to the fact that they contained a cartridge charge, but it's an unofficial term I believe.

Mark

Edited by StephenMG
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That's what I thought, too. I just went back and had a look again. They're not shown in the artwork on the box, they're not shown on the photo in the instructions, and there is no place in the build sequence where they are mentioned. I studied the sprues again in case they are present in spite of all that, but I just don't see them. Having a quick look at the 1:72 Revell WIPs in this group build, I see them on the FGA.9, but not on the F.6. The 1:48 Academy F.6 has them, though.

It's a tricky one this as ERUs were introduced very late in the life of the F.6. That means are on the majority of FGA.9s (but not all!) and sometimes seen on late mod F.6s, especially the F.6A.

There's no hard and fast rule though unfortunately!

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StephenMG said:
It's a tricky one this as ERUs were introduced very late in the life of the F.6. That means are on the majority of FGA.9s (but not all!) and sometimes seen on late mod F.6s, especially the F.6A.

There's no hard and fast rule though unfortunately!

 

Thanks guys!

 

Here is a photo of XF526 (the plane that I'm modelling) from 1971, and the ERUs are present. See here:

 

Link

 

The markings from 4 FTS of XF526 date to 1973, so I think it's fair to say that I need to add the ERUs.

 

Cheers,

Bill

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That's what I thought, too. I just went back and had a look again. They're not shown in the artwork on the box, they're not shown on the photo in the instructions, and there is no place in the build sequence where they are mentioned. I studied the sprues again in case they are present in spite of all that, but I just don't see them. Having a quick look at the 1:72 Revell WIPs in this group build, I see them on the FGA.9, but not on the F.6. The 1:48 Academy F.6 has them, though.

Hi Bill, I had a Revell FGA9/FGA58 to hand so I had a look in that. There are TWO pairs in the kit. One pair on the spprue containing the 230 gallon tanks and another on the "Swiss" sprue, so its unlikely they'd be included in the F6 kit. Shame really...but get your hands on an FGA9 kit and you'll be made up!!

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Bill Clark said:
Hi Bill, I had a Revell FGA9/FGA58 to hand so I had a look in that. There are TWO pairs in the kit. One pair on the spprue containing the 230 gallon tanks and another on the "Swiss" sprue, so its unlikely they'd be included in the F6 kit. Shame really...but get your hands on an FGA9 kit and you'll be made up!!

 

Hey, now that's a good idea. I'll tell wifey that I had to buy some aftermarket ERU fairings - and they just happened to include the FGA.9 aircraft free of charge! :)

 

Cheers,

Bill

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Hey, now that's a good idea. I'll tell wifey that I had to buy some aftermarket ERU fairings - and they just happened to include the FGA.9 aircraft free of charge! :)

Cheers,

Bill

Not sure how dear the Revell kits are in 'merica Bill, but they're fairly cheap over here - AND you can't just have ONE Hunter in a collection now can you?

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Bill Clark said:
Not sure how dear the Revell kits are in 'merica Bill, but they're fairly cheap over here - AND you can't just have ONE Hunter in a collection now can you?

 

They're not expensive, usually around $15-$20. But all the shops I use in the US are out of stock! Still looking for one...I see Hannants has them on sale! Quite a value at £8! And no doubt there are some nice Xtradecal sheets for her. Oh boy, I feel the charge card jumping out of my wallet again...

 

Cheers,

Bill

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They're not expensive, usually around $15-$20. But all the shops I use in the US are out of stock! Still looking for one...I see Hannants has them on sale! Quite a value at £8! And no doubt there are some nice Xtradecal sheets for her. Oh boy, I feel the charge card jumping out of my wallet again...

Cheers,

Bill

I daresay I won't need all of my FGA9 ERU's Bill. I may have a spare pair I can send over if you like.......(though not sure if I should use this forum to do that! Maybe I should post in the Wanted/for Sale section!!)

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Bill Clark said:
I daresay I won't need all of my FGA9 ERU's Bill. I may have a spare pair I can send over if you like.......(though not sure if I should use this forum to do that! Maybe I should post in the Wanted/for Sale section!!)

 

I'll send you a PM. Thanks!

 

Cheers,

Bill

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Hi mates,

 

Here is what I'm starting with - the Revell 1:72 F.6 kit, Xtradecal sheet 72046, Eduard PE set 73230, and the Quickboost resin airbrake 72115.

 

100_2005

 

I started with the cockpit, and here it is right after adding the tiny rudder pedals from Eduard (I hope you can see them!). Also shown is the color fret for the panels and controls, etc.

 

100_2006

 

Eduard also provided some structural element for the sidewalls in the pit, I don't know how accurate these are but they add a bit to the otherwise blank walls in the kit.

 

100_2007

 

In order to use the Quickboost airbrake, you need to open up an area in the lower rear fuselage, and install a small well which contains the airbrake acutator.

 

100_2008

 

I also filled some ejector pin marks on the inside of the intakes. I suspect these wouldn't be visible anyway, but what the heck, I've got the putty so I might as well fill them!

 

100_2009

 

I built up the bang seat using the kit parts and the Eduard PE details, handles, and seat belts. I think she looks pretty good, although I may re-paint the face curtain handles. Although Eduard has the yellow and black stripes, they are not well defined. The seat hasn't had a coat of matt varnish yet, it still has its coat of clear gloss which I used prior to adding a wash.

 

100_2011

 

I painted the cockpit with Tamiya NATO Black (which is really a very dark grey). This allows me to do a black wash and have it visible. The seat was also painted this color. I added the self-adhesive color PE instrument panels, which look very nice. I always add some superglue even though they are self-adhesive - I've had them come off. I'm thinking about adding some additional detail to the cockpit, and that will be next on my schedule.

 

Cheers for now.

Bill

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Hi mates,

 

I know that I shouldn't be doing this, but after having a go at folding up the Eduard landing flaps, I just have to use these on the model, even though the model will have the canopy open and no pilot inside. Plus, I'll have the air brake open just a bit, showing off the nice Quickboost resin (although I think these would droop a bit as hydraulic pressure dropped?). Another case of a forgetful pilot who now must buy a drink for everyone in the officer's club.

 

100_2018

 

100_2017

 

Cheers,

Bill

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi mates,

 

Well, it's been a bit since my last update. I've managed to get in some modelling even with all of my back problems. So let's get caught up!

 

After studying the special livery applied to the Hunters of 4 FTS in 1973, it became obvious that the line between the fuselage white and the wing grey is the same line where Revell has moulded the wing mounting. Therefore, I decided to paint the fuselage and wings separately and join later, as this would save me masking along a compound curve. To paint the fuselage, I inserted a plastic rod up its tailpipe, no, wait, that doesn't sound right. I mounted it on a stick, no, wait, that's not any better. Well, just let the pictures tell the story!

 

100_2020

 

100_2021

 

I chose Gunze H23 Shine Red over ModelMaster White. Bill, I couldn't find any Citadel Blood Red (I'm told by my local gaming store that it isn't made any more, in fact the entire line has been replaced). Shine Red is the brightest red that Gunze has, plus it has a tiny bit of orange to it. It's not fluorescent by any means, but I think it will look the part. The entire plane was painted white first, as I've found that is the best way to make red "pop."

 

After painting the wings grey, I masked off the wheel wells and landing flap recesses and painted them aluminum.

 

100_2022

 

I painted the outer areas on the wings white followed by red, and then attached them to the fuselage. Starting to look like the pictures! My intent is to paint the black anti-glare panel after the final varnish goes on, so I can make sure it stays matte.

 

100_2023

 

100_2024

 

It was at this point that I realized that I'd made a horrible mistake. The fuselage roundels are going to straddle the white/red demarcation line. This means that no matter how opaque the white areas of the roundels are, it is likely that this line will show through. Arghhhh. So I decided to mask off an area that is slightly smaller than the roundels (including those on the wing) and spray them white. If I'm careful, there won't be a big ridge around the white circles, and I can smooth it out.

 

100_2026

 

100_2030

 

100_2031

 

Next up I painted Alclad Chrome around the jetpipe, then painted the landing flaps and mounted them on the lower wings. The Eduard photoetch flaps are very nicely detailed and add a lot of interest to the model.

 

100_2028

 

100_2029

 

I decided not to do any kind of a panel line wash, or any significant weathering. Almost all of the pictures that I've found of these planes show them to be very clean, almost immaculate condition. So that's what I'm aiming for. And besides, my recent F-14 had enough weathering on it to last me the rest of the year! The only areas that received a wash were the wheel wells and the landing flaps. I added the roundels next, and I'm pleased with the model so far (the blue in the roundels is much darker in real life than this quick snapshot).

 

100_2032

 

I have one question for you Hunter experts - would these schemes have included a full set of stencilling? I don't see much in my reference photos, but it might still be there. The ejection seat triangle and rescue arrows are obvious, but that's about all I can see. Should I stencil or not?

 

Cheers,

Bill

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