My Routemaster

[GordonD]

I've now reached possibly the most repetitive and boring stage of the build (even more so than the seats) - namely picking out the window frames in black to represent the rubber seals. Even with the finest-pointed brush I could foresee disaster here, as the paint spills over and ruins my lovely red bodywork (on the kit, not my body, you understand!) Particularly as I was using Revell Anthracite rather than pure black, and as I've said before I'm no fan of Revell paint.

Then I had a brainwave. I tried using a toothpick to apply the paint and it worked a treat. It obviously has a fine point and is ideal for the job - simply dip it in the paint, remove the excess with a paper towel and draw it along the window frame. You have much more control than with the floppy bristles on a brush - just don't try to put too much paint on with each go. And if you start to get bored, then stop, otherwise you'll begin to rush things and that's when calamity strikes. (Good policy for all aspects of modelling.)

Here's the driver's cab to show how it comes out.

[nobby69]

I've now reached possibly the most repetitive and boring stage of the build (even more so than the seats) - namely picking out the window frames in black to represent the rubber seals. Even with the finest-pointed brush I could foresee disaster here, as the paint spills over and ruins my lovely red bodywork (on the kit, not my body, you understand!) Particularly as I was using Revell Anthracite rather than pure black, and as I've said before I'm no fan of Revell paint.

Then I had a brainwave. I tried using a toothpick to apply the paint and it worked a treat. It obviously has a fine point and is ideal for the job - simply dip it in the paint, remove the excess with a paper towel and draw it along the window frame. You have much more control than with the floppy bristles on a brush - just don't try to put too much paint on with each go. And if you start to get bored, then stop, otherwise you'll begin to rush things and that's when calamity strikes. (Good policy for all aspects of modelling.)

Here's the driver's cab to show how it comes out.

Hi Gordon, another neat way is to use a Paintpen with a fine tip, this has worked very well for me.

Cheers

John

[GordonD]

I now know where this model is going...because the route number and destination board decals are in place...

I was really looking forward to this part but it actually turned into a bit of a chore. All of these decals are far too big to fit in the appropriate locations - they're even bigger than the clear plastic panes that go on top. I had to trim each one down until it was small enough to fit, then put it in position (still attached to the backing paper) and fix the clear pane on top to hold it there. It looks fine, but how could Revell screw up like this? Every other part has fitted perfectly, so how could they make a mistake when printing the decals?

Fortunately I didn't have to remove so much of the black surround that the white lettering was affected but that's not the point...

[macgregor]

Going well Gordon, nightmare with the decals! Thanks for the heads up on it though, I've not seen it mentioned before so it will be a great help to me & others who are in the building process. Keep it going.

Cheers Mac

[Model69]

Hello there

Just joined this site, but thought i'd mention about the steering. When I was at that stage with the build, I just got the scalpel out and cut some of the housing away so that the steering moved freely. I didn't take many images at the building stage, but if you look at my topic..then hopefully there may be some tips there. I am planning on doing another RM and learning from some mistakes. I hope to produce an RM that is currently in preservation. I want to build my model on a single bus like RM 1000.

Keep up the good work.

David.

[GordonD]

After several weeks of work, I've finally reached the point I've been looking forward to ever since I walked out of the model shop carrying that humungous box. The sides are on!

Obviously I've still to fit the front and rear of the upper deck, as well as the windows and the greeblies (external details such as wing mirrors, indicators, all of that stuff.) So the finishing line is in sight but still a wee bit to go.

[pte1643]

We're all routing for you Gordon, you're getting there.

Gordon! Gordon! Gordon! Gordon!

[GordonD]

I'm beginning to get annoyed now.

This kit has gone together so beautifully that it seems a shame that Revell appear to have botched the decals by making them too large. I've already mentioned that I had to trim down all the route indicators to get them to fit in their respective locations, and now I've discovered that there is no way on Earth that the triangular badge for the radiator grille surround is going to go into the cut-out shape at the top. Trimming it down would remove the red outline so I've had to resort to cutting a piece of plasticard to fit the badge and fixing that onto the surround.

If it was just the odd decal I'd put it down to a production error but it seems that every single one is too big. It's almost as if the decal sheet has been produced to a larger scale. Or - and here's something I've been wondering for a while - possibly the decals are 1/24 but the actual kit isn't: instead it's something nearer 1/30. A test-fit of a 1/24 figure (a Stuka pilot!) shows that he takes up more than his fair share of a double seat, so I'm throwing this out to the bus experts here: is this really a 1/24 kit? I'm really surprised that nobody else has mentioned this problem with the decals.

Anyway, still making progress apart from the decals - the rear shell of the upper deck is now in place. I thought for a while I was going to have a problem getting it to sit right down properly but once I realised I had to encourage the window surround to fit into the aperture of the inner shell, it clicked satisfyingly into position. Front shell not yet in place as I had to touch up the cream interior at the rear edge but that will go on at the weekend.

[pte1643]

I don't remember the Rad' badge decal being too big.

I made my own blinds, but made them to the same size as the kit decals and then found out they were too big.

Although having said that, the seat moquette decals were spot on.

[GordonD]

I don't remember the Rad' badge decal being too big.

I did a visual comparison and the badge looked too big. This isn't the sort of thing you want to find out when you're actually sliding the decal into place so I trimmed the backing paper right down and offered it up to the kit part - it definitely appeared to be too large to fit. So I cut a scrap of plasticard to the same size as the badge and that sat comfortably on top of the edges of the location. I just need to spray the thing silver and I'll apply the decal.

[pte1643]

Strange one that Gordon.

I've just had a look at the badge on the front of mine, and although I trimmed the Clear "Border" part off to make it fit the hole, the Red is still intact.

Another one of note is the seating capacity decal... Some one at Revell / decal manufacturers can't add up.

The Decal says... Pax capacity is 77, but then goes on to say, Upper Deck 40, Lower Deck 40, with 5 Standing.

Err... I make that 85.

Lower Deck should, of course, say 32.

I didn't realsie this until a friend pointed it out AFTER I'd sealed it in.

[GordonD]

Strange one that Gordon.

I've just had a look at the badge on the front of mine, and although I trimmed the Clear "Border" part off to make it fit the hole, the Red is still intact.

Okay, I'll take your word for that. I've removed the plasticard and once I've cleaned up the hole in the radiator I'll be spraying it. Then we'll see...

Another one of note is the seating capacity decal... Some one at Revell / decal manufacturers can't add up.

The Decal says... Pax capacity is 77, but then goes on to say, Upper Deck 40, Lower Deck 40, with 5 Standing.

Err... I make that 85.

Lower Deck should, of course, say 32.

I didn't realsie this until a friend pointed it out AFTER I'd sealed it in.

Yes, this was pointed out in another thread here but I don't have the facilities to make my own decals so I just had to use it and hope nobody will look too closely!

[GordonD]

Haven't updated for a while as progress on the model temporarily stalled - I was busy with other things. I know - Heresy! Nothing is more important than modelling!

Anyway, the front end of the upper deck is now in place and I've started installing the windows. No photos this time as my camera battery needs charging...

[Model69]

Haven't updated for a while as progress on the model temporarily stalled - I was busy with other things. I know - Heresy! Nothing is more important than modelling!

Anyway, the front end of the upper deck is now in place and I've started installing the windows. No photos this time as my camera battery needs charging...

keep up the good work. Looking forward to more images. I just purchased two Routemasters today. Got one for £30 and another had missing parts that were taken for another customer's kit that had a damaged paneling section. Now I can start on my trolleybus project tomorrow.

David.

[GordonD]

I have a question concerning the windows. Approximately half of these are simple panes of glass (oh, all right, clear plastic, but you know what I mean) but the remainder have a moulded horizontal line about two-thirds of the way up. Presumably this represents the windows which can be opened for ventilation. Each of these windows has a second part which fits over the upper third - evidently this is the pane that the passenger would actually open. But on the model what you are left with is a double layer of plastic so I fail to see the advantage.

To my mind it would have been better if the main window panes were only as tall as the fixed section (i.e. up to the moulded line) so that the opening part fills the gap. Has anybody gone so far as to remove this section from their windows?

Or have I completely misinterpreted this?

[Model69]

I have a question concerning the windows. Approximately half of these are simple panes of glass (oh, all right, clear plastic, but you know what I mean) but the remainder have a moulded horizontal line about two-thirds of the way up. Presumably this represents the windows which can be opened for ventilation. Each of these windows has a second part which fits over the upper third - evidently this is the pane that the passenger would actually open. But on the model what you are left with is a double layer of plastic so I fail to see the advantage.

To my mind it would have been better if the main window panes were only as tall as the fixed section (i.e. up to the moulded line) so that the opening part fills the gap. Has anybody gone so far as to remove this section from their windows?

Or have I completely misinterpreted this?

Hello.. if you look at my RM, you will see that I have some opening windows. On the ones that are closed I just left the glass doubled up because you can't really notice the discrepancy. The opening windows, I cut the top glass with a scalpel then turned the outer sliding window upside down. Same procedure for the side windows that I chose to have open.

Hope this image helps:

David.

Edited July 13, 2012 by Model69

[GordonD]

Hello.. if you look at my RM, you will see that I have some opening windows. On the ones that are closed I just left the glass doubled up because you can't really notice the discrepancy. The opening windows, I cut the top glass with a scalpel then turned the outer sliding window upside down. Same procedure for the side windows that I chose to have open.

Hope this image helps:

David.

It certainly does help - thanks, David.

So basically I was right - Revell have boobed here in not making the opening-type windows extend only as far as the horizontal bar.

I'm not sure if I'm going to start modifying the parts with a scalpel or razor saw - as you say it's not really noticeable once the windows are in place and the possibility of the part shattering is too high.

[Model69]

It certainly does help - thanks, David.

So basically I was right - Revell have boobed here in not making the opening-type windows extend only as far as the horizontal bar.

I'm not sure if I'm going to start modifying the parts with a scalpel or razor saw - as you say it's not really noticeable once the windows are in place and the possibility of the part shattering is too high.

If you use a really sharp scalpel and just score along the side of the horizontal raised bar on the window, It snaps off very easily. I think the bus looks more realistic with some opening windows. I guess it's down to personal preference and a little bravery

Check out my trolleybus I started. Lots of brave cutting done there.

David

Edited July 13, 2012 by Model69

[GordonD]

I hadn't realised it was so long since I've posted an update. TBH there hasn't been much progress since last time - I'm still working on the windows, which is tedious work with all the masking. In addition, I switched to acrylic paint and while I like the gloss red I'm finding the silver a bit of a pain - difficult to stir properly and unless I absolutely load the brush full I'm finding the paint almost dry by the time it reaches the model part. I've never liked applying metallic paint with a brush. As a result I'm doing very little at each modelling session, which is why it's taking forever.

So for what it's worth here is the latest position with the model.

All of the bodywork is in place - I did have a little trouble with the roof panel as I couldn't persuade it to fit; I ended up cutting off the rear location tabs and now it sits nicely in position but can be removed to view the interior. Approximately half the windows have been fitted, but as yet none of the parts representing the opening panes. And I'm aware that one of the handrails is missing from the rear platform - it's a little too exposed for my liking so I'll leave it off until the end, otherwise I know it's going to get broken.