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My Routemaster


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#21 GordonD

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Posted 19 April 2012 - 06:06 PM

The radiator is at last in place :wub: and the pipe which caused me no end of confusion is also attached.

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(These pictures - particularly the middle one - don't give an accurate image of the actual colours.)

The sidewalls of the lower saloon are clipped into place for a test-fit and everything still seems to be fitting together extremely well. However I do have a question about the best way to install the seats, as a dry fit has shown they need to be assembled very accurately to slot into place. I was considering the following course of action:

1) Paint everything first

2) Glue the legs to the seat

3) Before this sets, glue the frame to the sidewall of the bus.

4) Again before this sets, glue the seat to the frame and the floor, ensuring that the legs go into the proper locations.

5) Allow to dry

6) Apply the cushion decals.

Is there a better way? It does seem that this method will take a hell of a long time, but it isn't a race to finish, as I wish I could tell my seven-year-old self...

#22 Jörgen Stendahl

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Posted 19 April 2012 - 07:21 PM

It seems to be coming together nicely.

I did my seats this way. It worked well for me and I would do the same again if I built another one.

1. Paint all parts separately, after thorough clean-up of seam lines and sprue attachment points.
2. Decals on the seats.
3. Matt varnish on seat decals.
4. Thin black wash between the two seat cushions.
5. Attach frames to seats, be careful and accurate in their fitting. Let glue dry (I used instant super glue).
6. Attach legs to seat bottoms, dry fit all first to ensure a perfect fit. Many legs will need trimming in their little slots so they slide down well in the correct position, this is important. Let glue dry.
7. Install scratched seat backs if this is opted for.
8. Now the finished seats are ready to install.

Be careful to find out exactly how the frames and legs shall fit to the seats before starting, and ensure to assemble all seats likewise so ideally they can’t be told apart. If the parts are fitted correctly with the all legs sitting all the way into their correct position the completed seats will fit well. I only had to slightly trim all six right hand grab pole frames at the bottom where they sit on the side wall to get a good fit and nice even rows when I installed my seats.

It does take a good deal of time to build the seats, but when they are fitted in their rows it pays off to having done it well. And yes, I’ll admit they did tension my patience… ;)

#23 GordonD

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Posted 19 April 2012 - 07:51 PM

Thanks, Jörgen. The reason I considered attaching the frames before fitting the seat cushions was so that I could see that they were located properly at the inner edge (i.e. on the little tabs which stick out from the sidewalls.) With the cushions in place I can't see that. However by assembling the individual seat beforehand, I can see that it should hold its shape better than the empty frame so everything should be lined up correctly.

#24 Jörgen Stendahl

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Posted 19 April 2012 - 09:10 PM

I think you really need to fit the frames to the seats first so that they will be stable in the correct shape. That will also help to correct the shape of those that might be a bit bent.

You will know that the seats are reasonably ok on their tabs on the side wall if the seats are well aligned from all views, and the alignment is more important than exactly how they sit on the tab. This was not much of a problem for me, with all the seats assembled with care they did fell nicely in place in even rows with some slight trimming.

I first placed a tiny dap of 5 min epoxy in each leg recess and one on the side wall “shelf”, then put the completed seat in place, put a small weight on the seat cushion to hold down the seat, adjusted its alignment and lastly put a drop of super glue where the frame tab comes out (or almost out) through the outside wall.

I think that it comes down to working slowly and carefully and let the job take the time it needs. Well build seats in nice even rows will set a bus interior apart.

#25 GordonD

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Posted 19 April 2012 - 09:25 PM

Thanks again for the advice. Revell have put a lot of work into producing this kit and I'm determined to do it justice.

#26 GordonD

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Posted 22 April 2012 - 09:26 PM

Started putting the seats in...
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So far I've concentrated on the seats without the vertical pole - I'm a little wary of having all those poles sticking up as it seems a sure recipe for disaster when working on everything else. I may leave them until just before I fit the lower saloon roof - does anybody foresee any difficulties in doing it this way?

Forgot to say - there doesn't seem to be a lot of legroom in the front row: seems it would be a very uncomfortable journey if you were going a long way!

Edited by GordonD, 22 April 2012 - 09:28 PM.


#27 Kallisti

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Posted 22 April 2012 - 10:44 PM

Thats about right - the front row was always a compromise in comfort over having an interesting view!

#28 GordonD

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Posted 24 April 2012 - 02:30 PM

Aaargh! :wall:

I've been assembling the seats one at a time, allowing the cushion decals to dry and then fitting them to the model. All has been going well so far (as I said previously I can foresee much accidental breakage if the seats with the vertical poles are installed at this stage, so I've left them until later) but last night I left a seat to one side while the decals dried. When I came to fit it today I found that this had happened:

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Apparently there was a tiny bead of super glue on the back of the seat (from where it attaches to the top cross-member of the frame) which has dissolved the decal. Does anybody have a spare seat back decal that they're willing to part with? :please:

Failing that, I thought of shaving off a single vertical strip of the seat pattern from one of the decals I haven't used yet, and trying to cover over the hole with short lengths of the appropriate colour. That will be horrendously fiddly but so long as I don't rush it, it might just work.

#29 pte1643

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Posted 24 April 2012 - 02:35 PM

I thought of shaving off a single vertical strip of the seat pattern from one of the decals I haven't used yet, and trying to cover over the hole with short lengths of the appropriate colour. That will be horrendously fiddly but so long as I don't rush it, it might just work.


I dunno about "might just work!"...

More probably it will look more realistic, just like a real patched up RM seat.

#30 GordonD

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Posted 24 April 2012 - 03:04 PM

I dunno about "might just work!"...

More probably it will look more realistic, just like a real patched up RM seat.

Good point! :lol:

#31 Jörgen Stendahl

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Posted 24 April 2012 - 03:14 PM

I should probably have the decal you need left over if you want it. I'll check tomorrow.

#32 Malcolm Shaw

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Posted 24 April 2012 - 03:46 PM

You could always modify it to as if some vandal had carved it up with the stuffing hanging out.
Used to find that a lot when i was on the buses.


Malcolm


Great work by the way.

I thought about doing one of these some time, but judging by what i have seen of the builds on here, i don`t think i will now
as the bar has been set too high.

Edited by Malcolm Shaw, 24 April 2012 - 03:47 PM.


#33 Jörgen Stendahl

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Posted 25 April 2012 - 04:49 PM

I thought about doing one of these some time, but judging by what i have seen of the builds on here, i don`t think i will now
as the bar has been set too high.


Oh it's well worth building it not least for your own pleasure, regardless of where you want to place your bar. And that's the only bar that's really important, that's how I try to build my own models. It's a nice kit that will build a nice model OOTB and provide a good time for the builder doing it.

I see many Routemasters being built now, both here and on other places on the web, with very varying goals, ambitions and results, but I'm quite sure that everyone building them have a good time doing it. At least I hope so. Go for it. :)

#34 pte1643

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Posted 25 April 2012 - 04:59 PM

I'm quite sure that everyone building them have a good time doing it.


I am with you there Jorgen.

Must get around to putting some pics of mine up.

#35 nobby69

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Posted 25 April 2012 - 08:12 PM

Oh it's well worth building it not least for your own pleasure, regardless of where you want to place your bar. And that's the only bar that's really important, that's how I try to build my own models. It's a nice kit that will build a nice model OOTB and provide a good time for the builder doing it.

I see many Routemasters being built now, both here and on other places on the web, with very varying goals, ambitions and results, but I'm quite sure that everyone building them have a good time doing it. At least I hope so. Go for it. :)



I agree with you, i have really enjoyed building this kit myself. I hope there more large scale bus kits to come in the future.

#36 Jörgen Stendahl

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Posted 26 April 2012 - 08:56 PM

Gordon, I have one left hand backrest decal if you want it. It has a small "dent" from the shipping of the kit to me, but it's not penetrated and should probably settle down fine.

#37 GordonD

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Posted 26 April 2012 - 09:31 PM

Gordon, I have one left hand backrest decal if you want it. It has a small "dent" from the shipping of the kit to me, but it's not penetrated and should probably settle down fine.

Thank you, Jörgen - PM on its way.

#38 christof

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Posted 26 April 2012 - 09:59 PM

Some outstanding work on this. Got the RM in the stash.

Christof.

#39 GordonD

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Posted 12 May 2012 - 12:03 PM

Haven't posted for a while but apart from being away for the Bank Holiday weekend (the Laurel and Hardy Convention in Birmingham, and yes I did enjoy it, thanks) I haven't been idle. All the lower deck seats are now in place, and I've replaced the damaged cushion decal thanks to a replacement sent by Jörgen Stendahl. Since then I've been working on the conductor's alcove and the rest of the gubbins at the rear of the passenger saloon and the platform.
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I used a couple of tips from Jörgen - the handrail (part P119) is shown at step 50 of the instructions as pointing towards the rear of the bus, but this would be worse than useless as not only would it block the conductor's alcove :o but it would be inaccessible to a passenger heading for the exit and therefore not much cop as a handrail. However by turning the part the other way up it can be fitted pointing outwards, which is presumably how it is meant to be.

The second of Jörgen's tips was to fit a timetable behind the clear panel at step 43. Revell don't supply anything to go in here but I was able to find a timetable for the 38 bus on the TfL website. I had to adjust the ratio of the sides, which could be done by eye, but I wasn't sure about the size as I couldn't tell how what I saw on my monitor would transfer to paper when I printed it out. I was prepared to have several failed attempts but much to my surprise I got it almost exactly right first time. It was then a simple matter to pop it in position and attach the clear panel to hold it place.
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Next step is to paint and install the stair treads, as well as the fire extinguisher in its box. Still having a lot of fun with this kit!

#40 Jörgen Stendahl

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Posted 16 May 2012 - 04:44 PM

Nice to see progress Gordon, and good that the seat could be fixed. Looking fine so far, keep going :).