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Eduard 190D 11 JV 44


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Its been a day of change down here in Devon

1. Changed my name by deedpole from Alistair . Now known as Mottlemaster (mother not happy)

2. Now support Wales in Rugby

3. Revell fw190 f8 has gone back to the stash pile to be replaced by the Eduard FW 190d kit

Reason for change 3 by a twist of fate last week loged on to ebay to see if my 190 f8 decals had been posted from Canada and did a quick hit of the "find similar items button " and near the top of the list was the Limited Edition

dual Combo FW 190d JV44 @ £25.00 +£3.95 p&p .Thought what the hec and put a bid in for £ 30.00 thinking a last flush of activity in the final minute would knock my bid off ..... any way to cut the story short i got it for £ 26.00

Arrived two days later.

It seemed to make sence to apply my experience with the Anton kit to this one while it was fresh in my mind. I didn't want to build the other kit from the Nachtjager box now as needed something a little different .This is just different enough. Also i had found a nice build on LEMB which inspired me to tackle this one.

http://www.luftwaffe-experten.org/forums/i...showtopic=12143

Have made a start with a dry run to see how things look. On cleaning off the parts i can see a lot more flash which will take some time to remove.

The Fit seems to be as good as the Anton ,although i dont have the wing spar or bulkhead in yet. I think there is a chance this may be a filler free build.

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The box is fit to bursting .Also got a bonus 1/100 scale ME 262 in there

P1110737.jpg Parts taped together . I can see from this that the combing is too small . I have a fix for this that i want to try out.

P1110741.jpg

The markings i have chosen for the D 11

Its nice to be able to follow the other Edward D's that are well underway

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Haveing looked at how other builders of the Eduard Dora have got on it looks like there are less places to build in errors than the Anton but that still leaves lots of places to buid in errors . One of the first problem areas seems to be the fit of part W1 (engine bulkhead over parts Y21 & Y17 ,the exhuast mounting slots.

P1110895.jpg

P1110894.jpg The slot or what ever its called tapers so will only fit the slot in part w1 at an exact position . If their is a problem here the chances are the fuselarg halfs wont close at the front.

P1110893.jpg

I have just got a set of quickboost exhausts and my firs job will be to try and get these 3 parts together in perfect harmony ( Thank you the carpenters )

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The plan is to Let the bulkhead float , ie not glue it to the sides , only attach it to X 38 via the struts . This is how Eduard recomend construction via their newsletter ,Kindly sent to me by Kahunaminor ( Kent ) . I shall try to apply some plastic weld useing key hole surgery technique via hole at front of fuselarge when joined.

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The plan is to Let the bulkhead float , ie not glue it to the sides , only attach it to X 38 via the struts . This is how Eduard recomend construction via their newsletter ,Kindly sent to me by Kahunaminor ( Kent ) . I shall try to apply some plastic weld useing key hole surgery technique via hole at front of fuselarge when joined.

When I did the front end on my 9 I plastic welded the tapered tray to the fuselage halves and then left the bulkhead floating, I ran a sanding stick over those trays to ensure that they were a snug rather than tight fit.

After that once i had the halves closed (plastic weld, from the inside applied with a brush, through any slots you can get to!) i then cemented the trays to the bulkhead before putting the cannon deck on. do make sure you have the rear bulkhead as far back as it will go or you will end up with the gap i did at the rear of the wing. the spar sorts out most errors but that is one i made (was easily sorted with filler though)

as a seperate note don't run cement down both sides of the cockpit tub, as it pulled in the fuselage sides and was going to leave a quite unsightly step, I had to run a scalpel down the sides to release them again <_< (you may even have to push the sides out slightly with a cut piece of sprue just to spread it)

watching with interest mate might even have a go at an 11 once i've done the 9 as I have decals for red 4 also (never know might do all 4 :lol:)

Oh and the coming is too small i have cemented the panel to the sides underneath and held it in place until it dried it supports it just

Edited by dazdot
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Haveing looked at how other builders of the Eduard Dora have got on it looks like there are less places to build in errors than the Anton but that still leaves lots of places to buid in errors . One of the first problem areas seems to be the fit of part W1 (engine bulkhead over parts Y21 & Y17 ,the exhuast mounting slots.

P1110895.jpg

P1110894.jpg The slot or what ever its called tapers so will only fit the slot in part w1 at an exact position . If their is a problem here the chances are the fuselarg halfs wont close at the front.

P1110893.jpg

I have just got a set of quickboost exhausts and my firs job will be to try and get these 3 parts together in perfect harmony ( Thank you the carpenters )

I had the same problem when I built my Dora, in fact I even mentioned it in post 26 in the chat section. You might like to look at post 29 in the same section as well. If you can find my wip on my build I think I may have pointed out anything to look out for in that.

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As most Eduard dora builders are now well past this step i post this info for anyone who comes upon this thred in the future ,probably when petrol costs £5..00/ lt.

I am aiming to have a perfect fit with this build and not use any filler so am trying to avoid the problems from the start. It is well known that the front end can be difficult to close due to tight fit of parts Y29,17 andW1 see previous post.

P1110900.jpg

The mounting peg at the base of parts W 30 & W 31 are at least 0.5mm to long with the result that the engine mounting bearers push the bulkhead too far forward against the tapering exhaust bits

P1110904.jpg

Aquick swipe with a file and a flush fit is gained and i hope fit should be improved

P1110901.jpg

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But surely thats no different to opening the slots out in part W1 whatever you chose to do it involves sanding and if my memory serves me right the top engine cowl picks up on the top of W1 so if you start moving that around you may run into trouble later.

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But surely thats no different to opening the slots out in part W1 whatever you chose to do it involves sanding and if my memory serves me right the top engine cowl picks up on the top of W1 so if you start moving that around you may run into trouble later.

Yes you would end up with same result but far easier to file off end than make slot deeper. I shall find out about top engine cowl later as i couldnt keep parts together as a dry fit to test this , however , it may make the cowl fit better (if you are doing the D9 as the D11 has the top cowl moulded as part of the fuselarge.

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I can't remember having any fit problems with the top cowl and the gun cowl just clicked into position. As in the 'A' that bulkhead assembly is critical as everything else is dependent on that being positioned correctly. Apart from the part W1 the kit will throw no more surprises than the 'A' did you built.

Personally I think its a little foolhardy going into a build with pre conceived ideas about not using filler.

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I can't remember having any fit problems with the top cowl and the gun cowl just clicked into position. As in the 'A' that bulkhead assembly is critical as everything else is dependent on that being positioned correctly. Apart from the part W1 the kit will throw no more surprises than the 'A' did you built.

Personally I think its a little foolhardy going into a build with pre conceived ideas about not using filler.

If i find that i need to use filler i will but i think my chances of getting away without are greater if i plan from the start. What im trying to find out is it possible or not . I dont useually take so much trouble and i cant think of many builds i'v done over the years that havent got filler in them somewhere. the idea came to me after reading other peoples builds ,some have no problems others many . what im trying to do is find potential trouble spots from the start . Of course i may have just created one for later but i hope not to alter the dimentions of the kit parts . The largest risk is haveing to eat a large piece of humble pie :tomato:

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Yeah, fair point. I like you would much sooner spend an extra 5 minutes with a sanding stick to get a sound fit rather than rushing in and the using filler. My self I hate using the stuff as I have trouble sanding the stuff back to a good finish. But I know I've got some waiting for me on my build.

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Have just added some plastic strip to provide a more secure fixing point for the combing

P1120046.jpg

P1120047.jpg

have started on the wooden flaps . Pictures show a distinkt triangle cross section so after cutting out the kit flaps i cemented a strip of styrene along the back , sanded it back to a trianglde then attached some mounting pegs.

On to this is glued a thin sheet of plastic card ( 0.25 mm ) This is thin enough to still keep the trailing edge nice and sharp.

P1120049.jpg

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Hope to get some plybord decals from Maciejs friend in poland.

Engine almost finished P1120051.jpg

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Slowly but surely coming together. What are you using for reference for your wooden flaps?

Found these fantastic shots of yellow 10 http://www.cebudanderson.com/yellow10.htm also pg 274 FW 190 Dora vol 2 Jerry Crandall.

For the wing structure im useing the photos you put up of your Eduard P/E .

The Eduard P/E wooden flaps have the same " upper detail " as the wooden set ,i think.

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You may have seen them but here is the instructions for the Eduard wooden ones.

http://www.eduard.com/store/Eduard/Photo-e...1-48.html?cur=1

I know that you have got some wood decals but the ply wood would have received a coat of paint for protection. I don;t know why Crandall did wood decals for the Ta-152H as the only surviving example clearly shows these to be painted. He seems like a person that likes to re invent the wheel, probably to sell his products!

Although i've got the Crandall books they are the last I use for reference, I much prefer the JaPo ones.

I can tell you a funny story about a comment one of the Luftwaffe vets I met, made about Crandall, and it wasn't complementary!

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You may have seen them but here is the instructions for the Eduard wooden ones.

http://www.eduard.com/store/Eduard/Photo-e...1-48.html?cur=1

I know that you have got some wood decals but the ply wood would have received a coat of paint for protection. I don;t know why Crandall did wood decals for the Ta-152H as the only surviving example clearly shows these to be painted. He seems like a person that likes to re invent the wheel, probably to sell his products!

Although i've got the Crandall books they are the last I use for reference, I much prefer the JaPo ones.

I can tell you a funny story about a comment one of the Luftwaffe vets I met, made about Crandall, and it wasn't complementary!

Can we have the story please ,or if you don't want to put it down here how about a PM

Mick

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