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wooden decks


p-26luvr

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I've used a few of their decks and have been very impressed with them. KA/Mk1 and Pontos also do wooden decks. I was thinking of getting the Soya set myself as they make painting of the ship a whole lot easier

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Being a conservative sort of bloke ,I didn`t really accept that these decks actually worked,until I used them on the Dreadnought and Warspite,and now I`m completely sold on them ,and I can heartily recommend them.BTW WEM has them is stock,sometimes!!

Cheers Phil

Edited by Phil Reeder
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  • 8 months later...

I have just received a wooden deck for my 1/350 Tamiya Prince of Wales, the deck is from 'Hunter' and the fit looks spot on, also the kit contained fine chain and etched brass cable reels. The wood itself is paper thin. I also received an 'Artwox' blue deck for my USS Missouri, only a fraction thicker, I haven't checked the fit yet but it looks good, this kit also contained the same type of fine anchor chain but no etched brass. So far so good for both manufacturers. Both these kits came from 'dawngrocerystore' on ebay, good price and they arrived in the same package within a week, VERY well packed.

Jockster.

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You will find the fit is right on Jockster.

I to have this blue deck for mine.

They being lazer cut useing the mold from the model makes them very accurate.

I like Phil used the Pontos deck for Dreadnaught finished and Warspite in progress, plus QE not built yet.

Wood decks will allway's be used on any builds I do in the future.

Cannot recommend them enuff.

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As far as I'm concerned, wooden decks are the only way to go. I've not used Hunter or Pontos decks yet, but have used Mk1 Design, Artwox, Fujimi and Hasegawa decks, all have been brilliant and easy to use. For painted decks though I don't feel they offer the same advantage, but each to their own.

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Blow my own trumpet time: http://www.britmodel...topic=234924075

Having used it now, & having followed the paint guide in the kit, i feel it's a little too light compared to the rest of the ship, but MILES better than i could achieve with my airbrush.

I also used the same companies deck on my 350th Trumpy Hipper, & had some lifting, but i think that was down to it being my 1st attempt at wooden decks.

I have also used Pontos' decks on my Tamiya Prince of Wales & Trumpy Hood, & am of the opinion that these are >slightly better< on the adhesion side of things.

HOWEVER, i am also led to believe that Artwox have now changed their adhesive formula, & am looking forward to seeing if this is true....

KA & Hunter are untried by me so far: I wanted the KA deck for my Prinz Eugen, but the Pontos deck was cheaper. Hunter had nothing in their range that i needed.

As for blue decks, I used the Pontos blue deck on my Trumpy North Carolina, & it fitted perfectly! Matching the painted plastic to the deck is a LOT more challenging...! This is the quandry we as modellers face: at some point there is compromise.

Just me, Rambling on a Monday night...... Hope it helped?

Edited by prowler0000
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  • 2 years later...

I have recently helped prop up the Chinese economy by purchasing a Hunter wooden deck for my 1/350 Tamiya Prince of Wales, my first foray into warship modelling. The fit looks excellent, but I am all at sea with a couple of things as the instructions are sketchy to say the least, and hope you'll excuse my ignorance. Is the shiny film on the back, adhesive? If so how do I activate it, if not what adhesive should I be using.

The are four round cutouts just aft of the bow breakwater but no correseponding fittings on the original deck. Any ideas how to disguise them? I'd appreciate any help anyone could give me.

With thanks in advance

Alan

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Al,

I just had a look at the deck you have, & see no cutouts as you describe. the only 4 holes that i can see are 2 either side for the secondary turrets. Is this what you mean?

As for the adhesive/shiny film: Pull the shiny film off. The adhesive is between it & the wood itself.

Be aware: You get ONE go at application!!! I usually do mine after painting the stuff on the deck. So, Paint 1st, then attach the deck.

Hope that helps a bit....

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Thanks for your help Prowler. I guess I should have worked that out for my self. In point of fact there are five circular coutouts, three parallel just behind the breakwater and two more slightly further back, one each side. I've taken a photo and if I ever get to remember how to post it I will.

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Thanks for your help Prowler. I guess I should have worked that out for my self. In point of fact there are five circular coutouts, three parallel just behind the breakwater and two more slightly further back, one each side. I've taken a photo and if I ever get to remember how to post it I will.

They sound like the five holes that should be drilled though from the back of the deck to mount 20mm AA tubs for a KGV (see pic) - I think the Tamiya kit has a common deck piece for either ship marked on the underside - is your deck for a KGV or POW?

DSC_0618_zpsg2tdwdli.jpg

Edited by Nick Charnock
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Thank you all for your help. The holes I referred to are indeed where the positions of the gun tubs for the KGV are marked. I have the POW and the Hunter deck has these five cut-outs marked quite prominently. I'll do my best to disguise them.

Al

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Thank you all for your help. The holes I referred to are indeed where the positions of the gun tubs for the KGV are marked. I have the POW and the Hunter deck has these five cut-outs marked quite prominently. I'll do my best to disguise them.

Al

Just a thought - spare liferaft stowage - this picture's of the quarterdeck but the principle could be the same!

POW%20aft%20deck_zpsjkjfys3p.jpg

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I've used the mk1 wooden decking and the decking which came with the titanic and the corvette all with the same result, when it cools down in winter the decking swells and I get ripples in my decking in the sumer when it warms up the ripples disappear.

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  • 2 months later...

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