WNW Albatros DVa

[Epeeman]

All,

Not sure if I should post this topic here or elsewhere but decided here as it is WW1 related - apologies if wrong.

This one is first for me: First build of a WNW kit, first use of oil paint to try and simulate wood and first posting of build progress. A bit embarrassed (I was in two minds about doing this if honest) displaying my 'skills' So, here goes -

As is usual for me, this will mainly be an OOB build and brush/hand painted. Not really sure what version I will go for yet - torn between 'Stropp', Von Hunoldstein or Niethammer (my wife likes the colour scheme on this one!) but will mainly depend on how well the 'wood grain' effect turns out!

Anyway, two weeks into this project so attach photos (sorry, my photography skills with a basic camera is pretty poor) on where I have got up to. First, my thanks to Pete (T-Tango) on advice/tips which proved to be invaluable. The first thing that strikes me about this is that the plastic seems quite brittle. I have managed (so far) to break 3 parts removing from sprue and another 3 whilst trying to assemble the seat bulkhead/structure. The fit in this area is tight, so broke both the seat support bars (parts D12) during assembly - very frustrating but finally managed to get together in the end after turning the air blue with my cursing! Using liquid mask in the slots (in fuselage that support all the bulkheads) before painting did help however. Eradicating the various pin holes inside the cockpit area was also easier said than done.

Will need to wait for the oil paint on the other interior wooden parts to dry (about 5 days) before continuing.

Dave (Epeeman)

[T-Tango]

For your first one Dave, it's looking pretty good so far, welcome to the club for breaking parts, some of them in the WNW kits are so fragile you can't help it, keep going mate and keep the pics coming.

Cheers

Pete.

[Iain Ogilvie]

Cracking start!

Iain

[gcn]

If you don't break the seat supports you're not trying hard enough.

Goog job so far. I would say it looks as though you have wood grained the fuel tank whereas it should be painted or brass.

Tolerances are tight on this one but as long as you keep paint off the bulkhead edges and dry fit them all making sure the fuselage sides close up ok you should be alright.

[JackFlash]

While the fuel tanks are brass they were double dipped in solder.

[T-Tango]

If you don't break the seat supports you're not trying hard enough.

I drilled the holes in the bulkheads out just a little bit on my 2nd and 3rd Albies, that seemed to get round the issue, although I did break the seat supports on my first one.

Pete.

[Epeeman]

Thanks, gents -

Gcn - the photos have distorted the look of the paint shades (Revell aqua paints being used) the fuel tank is actually painted brass (I did try to 'shade up' a bit so that it did not look too shinny and bright) but it does look a wood colour in the picture.

More progress update and pictures to follow in due course.

Regards

Dave (Epeeman)

[T-Tango]

Hi Dave;

Here you go mate, this is your next one.

Good luck.

Only joking.

Cheers

Pete

[Viking]

Looking damn good Dave, I'll be following this!

I vote for 'Stropp', I've always liked that scheme. (Might be more diplomatic to go for the missus choice though).

(Pete - that is stonkingly gorgeous!)

Cheers

John

Edited February 15, 2012 by Viking

[T-Tango]

(Pete - that is stonkingly gorgeous!)

Cheers

John

Thanks, but a decalling nightmare John.

Rowan did them in 1/32 as a limited run and I said yes please.

Pete.

Edited February 16, 2012 by T-Tango

[James Quinton]

This is looking very nice indeed!

Pete have you got any info on your green and white beauty like pilot etc? Looks a really interesting aircraft.

[T-Tango]

Pete have you got any info on your green and white beauty like pilot etc? Looks a really interesting aircraft.

Hi James;

First off, apologies to Dave for hijacking his thread, I hope he doesn't mind, my plane is actually green and pale silver grey, it was flown by Ltn. Fritz Rumey, Jasta 5, Sept 1917.

Build Thread

Cheers

Pete

[Epeeman]

Hi James;

First off, apologies to Dave for hijacking his thread, I hope he doesn't mind, my plane is actually green and pale silver grey, it was flown by Ltn. Fritz Rumey, Jasta 5, Sept 1917.

Build Thread

Cheers

Pete

No problem, Pete. Actually I was very interested to see this one - superb work! I not going to be able to meet the standard of all you boys - but I intend to give this my best shot though.

OK, the story so far - the oil paint finally dried after about 5-6 days. I've therefore been able to make good progress again starting yesterday evening and this afternoon. I'm very pleased I put the liquid mask into the grooves in the fuselage prior to painting - this has worked extremely well. Getting the bulkheads in (other than the seat ones) has proved to be very easy with a good, tight fit. Had a go at adding some basic (not done the full rig job here) rigging inside on on and around the control column. Accomplished this by using stretched sprue to try make things as easy as possible. Not fantastic, but I hope it will pass the casual glance test if somebody looks inside.

I am now ready to close up the fuselage. Test fitting has revealed a good fit so hope this goes alright. I can then start work on the engine.

I am now starting to appreciate why everybody likes these kits - I just hope the rest of the build goes well. Pictures of where I currently am attached below.

Regards all

Dave ('Epeeman')

[James Quinton]

Thank you Pete for the link! Epeeman what you have done so far is excellent work, i havnt built one of these kits yet but looking at yours certainly tempts me.

[T-Tango]

Looking very good so far Dave, I'm glad every thing fits OK, keep the pics coming.

Cheers

Pete.

[Epeeman]

Thanks, Pete -

How are you getting on with Jasta 5 workhorse?

Dave

[T-Tango]

Hi Dave;

I'm working my way through the engine at the moment, I don't know why, but each sub-assembly you do seems to take ages, then suddenly it's finished and you wonder why its taken so long.

Cheers

Pete.

[Epeeman]

All,

Further small, update -

The fuselage has now been closed up and I have tidied up all the joins. Only a small amount of filler was required so was fairly straightforward clean up. The fit was a really good, tight close up that gave me no problems - what a relieve!

I'm curious to know what all the little holes are that run along the underside of the fuselage - does anybody know what these were for?

I think the next stage will be painting up fuselage although I am not convinced that my wood effect painting is really up to scratch - I'll therefore see how this goes on the outside.

A few pictures below

Dave ('Epeeman')

[T-Tango]

I'm curious to know what all the little holes are that run along the underside of the fuselage - does anybody know what these were for?

Dave ('Epeeman')

Hi Dave;

I think you will find they were to let the water out, but I could be wrong.

Cheers

Pete.

Edited February 23, 2012 by T-Tango

[Epeeman]

OK -

Had another go yesterday afternoon at using oil paint (burnt sienna) to try and simulate a wood look to the outside fuselage. I have to say this was a bit easier on the outside - the inside has lots of raised areas which I think makes it difficult to achieve the right look.

I spent a fair bit of time doing this (using a mixture of new flat and old, rough paint brushes after applying paint with sponge) to try and get look of different shades and direction of 'grain' on individual panels. I hope this has come out looking right.

I'm considering (once paint has dried in a week's time) applying a clear yellow to lightened the colour a bit. This would also seal in the oil paint. Would this work/look right? Or should I leave as is?

While the paint is drying, I can now make a start on doing the engine.

Dave

[Ray S]

Hi there, the wood looks good on the outside of the fuselage, nice! I did a prop a while ago using oils as the finish, then I used Tamiya clear orange diluted with this new pledge floor polish (substitute for Johnsons Kleer) and it gave a good finish. I used a brush to apply it, and had no streaking/lifting effects that I get with undiluted Tamiya when brush painting. So I reckon you should get a good finish by doing what you suggested.

Great work and I look forward to seeing more.

Kind regards, Ray

[T-Tango]

Hi Dave;

What you want to do when your oils are dry is to give the fusilage a couple of coats of Kleer if you've got any, failing that, then use gloss varnish cos you've got to get a nice glossy surface for the decals, when your decals are dry you can then coat it with a varnish of choice, I tend to use satin varnish for the last coat as the wood had a slight sheen to it.

Cheers

Pete.

[Viking]

Hi Dave,

You've got that techniqe nailed, it looks really good. The graining is just perfect.

Cheers,

John

[Epeeman]

All,

Have just completed the engine this evening. I've had a go at trying a bit of basic detailing up. Added spark plugs (stretched sprue cut to size), ignition leads (fine wire) and wound wire around the moulded valve springs (not very clear after painting unfortunately) and finally tried wrapping cut strips of household decorating tape painted off white in attempt to simulate asbestos wrapped intake manifold. My first effort at doing this, so not perfect by any means!

Also dirtied up a bit with various washes of dark grey and silk matt (slightly darkened) brown.

If this does not look right, I will simply close up with the cowlings to hide - otherwise I would like to leave open (probably one side) to expose the engine on the completed model.

Whilst building engine, have been carrying on with the fuselage - photos to follow on this in due course. Again, apologies for my poor standard of photography - not my game I'm afraid!

Dave

[T-Tango]

That engine looks lovely Dave, well done mate, as regards the asbestos lagging, I've had words with the experts in the past and they say that it is purely optional whether you put it on or not, some engines had it some didn't, also they said if you do decide to put it on one of the best things to use is a packet of cigaret papers, with one paper cut in to strips.

Cheers

Pete.