Michaelvk Posted February 11, 2012 Share Posted February 11, 2012 Okay folks.. I've offered to build the 106 squadron association a 1:48 Lanc, (R5681, to be exact) with all the goodies (eduard big ed, resin wheels.. riveter!), so now I've got some questions.. First: Does anyone know where I can get the resin engines for this old girl, or are they as available as rocking horse droppings? I had a look at the manufacturers website and they stated out of either stock or production. One or the other (it's late and I'm on my way out.. ).. Second: The finish. I saw the Ewan McGregor thing on tv last week, and the Lancaster they flew was awfully shiny. Now were wartime Lanc's shiny too? I don't think so, but just to be sure I'd ask you chaps (have yet to get some good reference on the subject.) Also, any tips or advice with this kit? Ta muchly! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troy Smith Posted February 11, 2012 Share Posted February 11, 2012 Okay folks.. I've offered to build the 106 squadron association a 1:48 Lanc, (R5681, to be exact) with all the goodies (eduard big ed, resin wheels.. riveter!), so now I've got some questions..First: Does anyone know where I can get the resin engines for this old girl, or are they as available as rocking horse droppings? I had a look at the manufacturers website and they stated out of either stock or production. One or the other (it's late and I'm on my way out.. ).. Second: The finish. I saw the Ewan McGregor thing on tv last week, and the Lancaster they flew was awfully shiny. Now were wartime Lanc's shiny too? I don't think so, but just to be sure I'd ask you chaps (have yet to get some good reference on the subject.) Also, any tips or advice with this kit? Ta muchly! Michael have a search for Iain Wylie's posting on the Tamiya lanc, espcially the bomb is to shallow/cabin floor too deep! Does mean a load other aftermarket is also inaccuate..... see post 7, for some links http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=80456 Lancs have raised rivets anyway. no, PA747 is kept shiny, most of the war Lancs used 'smooth night' , i suppose you could call it eggshell. Some very late Lancs used 'jet black' which was high gloss, by then test had shwon that smooth finsh showed up grey in a searchlight, but the gloss deflected away the beams.. HTH T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Admiral Puff Posted February 11, 2012 Share Posted February 11, 2012 Okay folks.. I've offered to build the 106 squadron association a 1:48 Lanc, (R5681, to be exact) with all the goodies (eduard big ed, resin wheels.. riveter!), so now I've got some questions..First: Does anyone know where I can get the resin engines for this old girl, or are they as available as rocking horse droppings? I had a look at the manufacturers website and they stated out of either stock or production. One or the other (it's late and I'm on my way out.. ).. Second: The finish. I saw the Ewan McGregor thing on tv last week, and the Lancaster they flew was awfully shiny. Now were wartime Lanc's shiny too? I don't think so, but just to be sure I'd ask you chaps (have yet to get some good reference on the subject.) Also, any tips or advice with this kit? Ta muchly! The engines you're after are made by Belcher Bits in Canada - see http://www.belcherbits.com/lines/148conv/bb15.htm. Mike's good to deal with, and according to his site the engine set is still available. Modern-day restorations have a gloss finish mainly for ease of maintenance. AFAIK the Lancaster in service during the Second Great Unpleasantness had a matt/eggshell finish - others may know more ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michaelvk Posted February 12, 2012 Author Share Posted February 12, 2012 Belcher bits! That's the one! Thanks! I couldn't for the life of me remember for some reason.. Thanks! So, as this specific aircraft was lost I believe in '42 it's fairly safe to assume that if I split the difference and go with a satin finish, I should be okay. It'll be moderately clean too, as the airframe only had 123 hours on it before it was lost with all hands (a family friend's cousin was a crew member).. So a rebuild of the bomb bay/cabin floor is in order. Considering my time constraints, I'll try to keep it simple by raising the level of it without having to perform too much surgery. Awesome. Thanks for the links. Order's going out next wednesday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michaelvk Posted February 12, 2012 Author Share Posted February 12, 2012 So, looking for references, I run into this, which is dishearteningly good: http://www.helmo.gr/index.php?option=com_c...84&Itemid=1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troy Smith Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 So, looking for references, I run into this, which is dishearteningly good:http://www.helmo.gr/index.php?option=com_c...84&Itemid=1 Yep, that one! Amazing detailing....had it's own thread here, but note, he cocked up the undercarriage, like it's starting to retract!!! Also, the wheels should be smooth treads, and not as flat as these are. And seems he did not sort out the errors mentoned by Iain... Some early Lancs I think would have the RDM2 finish, which was a very matt black, often described as 'sooty' which was quite rough and weathered badly. There was a special Lanc forum going, that would be the place for answers. HTH T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 Which version of Tamiya kit are you using the old one or the new release? If it's the old one then you will need to replace the paddle props with needle one's I think they are both included in the newer boxed version and the wireless op's window needs to be moved back nearer the wing on both sides. Graham Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomprobert Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 Yep, that one! Amazing detailing....had it's own thread here, but note, he cocked up the undercarriage, like it's starting to retract!!! Also, the wheels should be smooth treads, and not as flat as these are. And seems he did not sort out the errors mentoned by Iain... Some early Lancs I think would have the RDM2 finish, which was a very matt black, often described as 'sooty' which was quite rough and weathered badly. There was a special Lanc forum going, that would be the place for answers. HTH T Agreed, the workmanship on that build is simply phenominal... far above and beyond anything I could ever hope to achieve. The only thing that I don't understand is his finish. Every single panel line is showing and the paintwork is so over-weathered it looks as if it has been sitting baking and fading in a desert boneyard somewhere... not the cold and damp of northern England. Even pitures of 100+ op Lancs don't show the paintwork to be anything like that. Yes, heavy exhaust, foot scuffs and paint chips, but not the patchwork quilt effect he has produced. A beautiful model indeed, but spoilt for me by an inaccurate finish. I'd love to see the pictures he worked from... And regarding the BMMF Lancaster - as others have stated it is in a glossy-ish finish mainly for protection and ease of maintainance purposes. It used to be very glossy before its most recent re-paint, at which time it was matted down a little to be more representitive of a wartime scheme. A 1942 vintage Lancaster would most likely be pretty matt, but with a slight sheen. If you have the opportunity to see Night Bombers, it is an excellent colour video of RAF wartime Lancasters which will provide you with some excellent references for paint schemes etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miduppergunner Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 There is in fact quite a lot wrong with the Tamiya Lancaster - if using the old kit the A frames in the rear turret and the framework on the front turret probably among the most evident of some other items. However someone I know is preparing CAD 3D images using the original Avro drawings which reveal errors in fuselage cross section, aerofoil, some outlines etc. etc. but I suggest that you avoid going down that road. Even if you had lots of time! Don't forget that except for the occasional photoshoot these aircraft were never cleaned and so even those that were finished "semi gloss" in the later stages would have looked rather "flat" and a model probably more so. I did one years ago and sprayed on a touch of semi gloss varnish here and there - felt it just did not look right! I think I recall that the Belcher nacelles needed a bit of tailoring and filler. Look forward to pictures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michaelvk Posted February 12, 2012 Author Share Posted February 12, 2012 This is all excellent stuff, guys.. Thanks! Well, I'm going to order everything from Hannants in one go.. Here's the list: The aircraft: http://www.hannants.co.uk/product/TA61105 The PE: http://www.hannants.co.uk/product/EBIG4882 The gun barrels: http://www.hannants.co.uk/product/QB48047 The wheels: http://www.hannants.co.uk/product/TD48049 Any objections? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 The wheels must be smooth not treaded. Graham Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miduppergunner Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 (edited) Are you really sure you want the wheels - the tread did not appear until quite late in the war - for use on hard surface runways. The Tam ones can easily be filled to produce a "slick" tyre. I also feel that the "flats" on many AM tyres are very overdone. Just to be pedantic - the cooling slots in the gun barrel sleeves should be oval - there are or used to be brass ones available with correct slots but they were expensive. You might find this useful.... http://lancaster-archive.com/forum/viewtop...f=10&t=2954 PSI think in fact Quick boost do gun barrels with oval slots as well as round - you might like to check when placing your order. Edited February 12, 2012 by miduppergunner Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michaelvk Posted February 12, 2012 Author Share Posted February 12, 2012 Smooth not treaded, oval holes.. Check! Thanks guys. All invaluable stuff! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
galgos Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 You'll find quite a few hopefully useful reference photos on my website www.ordinarycrew.co.uk From the "Home" page, go to "Lancaster" then from the drop-down menu choose "Walk around". Note especially on p3 the correct orientation of the warm-air vents (inboard edge of both wings) facing aft, not forwards as shown in the Tamiya kit. Max Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hovering Posted February 14, 2012 Share Posted February 14, 2012 The Tam ones can easily be filled to produce a "slick" tyre. I also feel that the "flats" on many AM tyres are very overdone. fyi: The kit now has the slick tyres as well as the treaded ones. It's on the sprue with the needle blade props. They do have a molded flat section (not as pronounced as some resin ones) so I think they may be ok. I'd suggest looking at them before replacing them. Greg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michaelvk Posted February 15, 2012 Author Share Posted February 15, 2012 Thanks for all the help guys.. Order has just been placed! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheeley Posted February 16, 2012 Share Posted February 16, 2012 A beautiful model indeed, but spoilt for me by an inaccurate finish. I'd love to see the pictures he worked from... I agree, an amazing bit of construction, but for my tastes the finish spoils it a bit. That's the only criticism I have of it, the heavy patchwork-quilt style post shading (I assume it's post shading). I don't have a problem with innacurate finishes and I like a fair bit of pre and post shading, but this one just seems too over done. Still, that's my personal preference. I don't believe in a model being right or wrong, it's up to the individual who made it to be happy with it. Let's all just get along chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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