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      DDoS and Brute Force Attacks   09/18/2016

      From the day following upgrade to the new forum software, 15th Sept until the 19th, we were under a concerted attack by a person or persons using a number of 'bots and other people's Proxy networks to carry out what is called a Distributed Denial of Service attack, which is a method by which these 'bots submit thousands of requests to the website per second to overload the server and bring the site to its knees.  While this was going on, they were also making Brute Force attacks on our remote communications port to try and breach the server so they could do anything from format the hard drives to change ownership of the site, and bombarding the mailserver with similar bogus requests, some of which left some rather telling details behind.  This was followed up a couple of days later with a further attack that left more data to sift through, which we have passed on to our IT forensics people.On the advice of our Lawyer and fellow member JohnT, we yesterday informed the National Crime Agency and requested their assistance with the matter, and in an ongoing dialogue with them to find the culprits, so we are allowing them access to the server and its logs.    We don't believe that this is a random attack on balance, but for 5 days and a further evening we had to put up with some disturbance and interruption to the usually fast response of the website as we are seeing now that the attack has ended.  We will prevail, and don't worry about it.  We were the target, and these people will not win.  Karma will catch up with them   Mike, Greg, Dave & Julien.
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perry

Cutty Sark

13 posts in this topic

Built this as a kid and decided another would look nice over the fireplace......... I was so happy with the result before that it it stood above the fireplace for years when i was married....what i'm wanting to know now is WHAT are the correct colours to use........... the black for the upper hull, is/ was it matt or satin? ( i used matt before) the white for the masts, the same, gloss, matt, satin? ( i used gloss before) Looking at the instructions for the model I have now, I don't understand how as as a kid I made such a lovely model................. :o/

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Hi,

Never use gloss or satin - always matt - although I use Humbrol 85 for black, but always spray varnish the finish with a matt polyurethane varnish. For the white, I have found the best white to use is the spray can type (Plasti-Kote or similar, found in DIY stores). use white brush paint (Humbrol or similar) to touch up.

Cutty Sark in plastic was always a pig to model.

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I have the Revell Cutty Sark in 1/96 scale. Looks like a challenging build (and BIG).

I hate rigging but love sailing ships.

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Thanks guys, I will go with matt then, pretty much the same (apart from the masts ) as I did 35 years(or so)ago, hope it turns out as good as it did then. And all those years ago, I still did all the rigging lines on it, remember using a purple felt tip pen to marrk off each line i had added

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ok, folks, another quick question on colours...... the call out for the decking is light brown, can anyone be a little more specific please?

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One of my favourite ships - built this some years ago and have another in the stash awaiting my attention. I have the old Pitkin Pictorial guide "Cutty Sark at Greenwich" , which is a pre-fire publication and has some good photos of the deck, rigging and masts - also a cutaway with a lot of rigging and sail detail. I know that History Press have a current guide (£4.99 from their website) but I don't know if it has the same content as the old one.

Drop me a PM if there's any info you'd like from the old book.

Enjoy the build.

Kev

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Perry,

I hope this will be of some help to you:

http://wijhevjl.home.xs4all.nl/Docs/Cutty%...ur%20Scheme.pdf

This was direct from Greenwich. If I'm too late maybe somebody else can find this information useful.

As far as matte, satin, or gloss goes that is largely a matter of personal preference. Those who do war vessels refuse to use anything but matte ... and car modellers use only gloss ... B)

I like to keep a ship as close to what it would usually be under use. As far as the Cutty Sark goes several factors come into play:

1. Paints of that era were all oil-based and as a result would have a certain sheen to them when newly applied.

2. As she was newly launched from the shipyard she would probably be pretty shiny ... Satin finishes would probably be most appropriate. The teak deck would have been highly oiled originally. Since the owner paid out approximately £17,000 for her construction he would probably want quite a bit of "flash" or "bling" to her. (hence the fancy gold work on the bow and stern)

3. As a working ship environmental factors would dull the paint finishes to Matte and the teak decks would bleach out. But, the vertical wood surfaces (such as on the deck house, etc) and certain yards/booms would always have a good shiny coat of varnish on them so a coat of clear gloss spray would be called for on these parts of the model.

4. Periodically she would go into drydock for re-fit ... hence new coats of paint.

5. Just prior to re-fits she would look very dull and dirty.

So, basically, just figure out which period/circumstance in which you want to portray her and work from there. To be consistant you can't have a nice shiny copper hull and a dirty mangy deck. :o

PS: A bleached-out teak deck is NOT tan despite what the instructions say. Light to medium silverish-gray is the proper color if dry ... darkening to an almost medium charcoal/russet brown if wet. To see what I mean look at any boat where the owner hasn't maintained her (with oil or varnish) ... or if you don't have any handy ships floating around just look in a local garden for an unfinished teak bench. See deck photo, halfway down on left, in the following article, clicking to enlarge:

http://www.bymnews.com/may/cutty-sark.html

Edited by loren_brothers

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Perry,

I hope this will be of some help to you:

http://wijhevjl.home.xs4all.nl/Docs/Cutty%...ur%20Scheme.pdf

This was direct from Greenwich. If I'm too late maybe somebody else can find this information useful.

As far as matte, satin, or gloss goes that is largely a matter of personal preference. Those who do war vessels refuse to use anything but matte ... and car modellers use only gloss ... B)

I like to keep a ship as close to what it would usually be under use. As far as the Cutty Sark goes several factors come into play:

1. Paints of that era were all oil-based and as a result would have a certain sheen to them when newly applied.

2. As she was newly launched from the shipyard she would probably be pretty shiny ... Satin finishes would probably be most appropriate. The teak deck would have been highly oiled originally. Since the owner paid out approximately £17,000 for her construction he would probably want quite a bit of "flash" or "bling" to her. (hence the fancy gold work on the bow and stern)

3. As a working ship environmental factors would dull the paint finishes to Matte and the teak decks would bleach out. But, the vertical wood surfaces (such as on the deck house, etc) and certain yards/booms would always have a good shiny coat of varnish on them so a coat of clear gloss spray would be called for on these parts of the model.

4. Periodically she would go into drydock for re-fit ... hence new coats of paint.

5. Just prior to re-fits she would look very dull and dirty.

So, basically, just figure out which period/circumstance in which you want to portray her and work from there. To be consistant you can't have a nice shiny copper hull and a dirty mangy deck. :o

PS: A bleached-out teak deck is NOT tan despite what the instructions say. Light to medium silverish-gray is the proper color if dry ... darkening to an almost medium charcoal/russet brown if wet. To see what I mean look at any boat where the owner hasn't maintained her (with oil or varnish) ... or if you don't have any handy ships floating around just look in a local garden for an unfinished teak bench. See deck photo, halfway down on left, in the following article, clicking to enlarge:

http://www.bymnews.com/may/cutty-sark.html

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There is a set of plans (3 sheets) by George Campbell that are the best that you can obtain.

A wealth of detailed information is on them about the colours, besides all the rigging details etc.

Look on the Cutty Sark website's store.........Cost about £10 or threabouts.

Anyone contemplating building the Cutty Sark will really benefit from these.

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