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Nose Weight (again!)


treker_ed

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I've used 1p, 2p and 5p coins, but you can also use scuba diving shot, such as this on eBay. It is cheaper to buy this from a dive shop, but you get the idea!

I'd also fix this in with a 2 part epoxy glue rather than superglue, just in case your model gets a knock and the pellets come loose.

Cheers,

Ian

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If you have a 'Boyes' store near you, look in the fishing department, good (god knows what they're made of ) plumb weights, can take a bit of cutting but, cheap as chips and do the job well, weighted down my 1/32 P.38 with no problem

hth

Pez

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If you know anybody that teaches science, lead dust, or fine shot, from science suppliers is excellent. Mix some white glue with adrop of detergent and some water, add to the reqired weight of lead to make a stiff paste, then fill the nose, engine cowlings on multi's etc. A perfect fit every time!!

Dave

Edited by davepb
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Air rifle pellets for the usual model, portions of wheel balance weights for the larger jobs, all glued in place. Like Vulcanicity, I've become quite adept at picking used weights from the street.

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  • 2 months later...

I generally use Old Nuts and Bolts from the shed (if the space will allow).

Other than that fishing weights are ideal, and cheap as chips.

The small "Shot" weights aren't lead anymore (haven't been allowed for some time now), but the larger ones (bigger than 1oz) that are typically used for sea fishing (Breakaways, for example) are still lead, and are dirt cheap and can be easily cut into bits for nose weights.

No need to spend large.

Edited by pte1643
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  • 4 weeks later...

Just a small note of caution, the above works very well though i would just suggest if using 'scrap' weights give 'em a wash first.

Reason? While most CAR brake pads are non asbestos, high performance brake pads still contain asbestos.

I doubt if any garage will separate contaminated weights from non contaminated, though i would love to be proved wrong!

Paul

My supplier is very used to me now and always puts some new weights to one side when I call to order tyres. I never need the dirty ones now.

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  • 4 years later...
On 08/06/2012 at 9:33 PM, davepb said:

If you know anybody that teaches science, lead dust, or fine shot, from science suppliers is excellent. Mix some white glue with adrop of detergent and some water, add to the reqired weight of lead to make a stiff paste, then fill the nose, engine cowlings on multi's etc. A perfect fit every time!!

Dave

Lead dust is nasty stuff.  The main reason I changed over to using steel shot.

 

Paul

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2 hours ago, little-cars said:

Lead dust is nasty stuff.  The main reason I changed over to using steel shot.

 

Paul

But it doesn't rust, and provided you take the same precautions as you would with resin or similar materials, it's fine.

Dave

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13 hours ago, davepb said:

But it doesn't rust, and provided you take the same precautions as you would with resin or similar materials, it's fine.

Dave

Personally, I tend to go with the least dangerous product I can find, that does the job.

 

Paul

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I keep meaning to pick up some tungsten putty to try.  (Tackle shops are full of wonders for modellers. Thin lead wire for fly fishing etc.)

Another thing I sometimes do is to carve out/Dremel overly thick fuselage halves aft of the centre line. Messy job, but saves a bit of nose weight bulk in those hard to balance kits with little space to add weight.

 

Mart

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  • 5 weeks later...

I was going to use wheel balance weights in my next build, but the owner of the car came back and I had to run for it!

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On ‎20‎/‎01‎/‎2012 at 4:44 PM, treker_ed said:

i've finally managed to find a reasonably priced source of lead flashing - Jewsons! 3mtrs long, 15cms wide - same size as from Wickes and B&Q etc but only £26.00 (inc vat). Considering this weighs abot 5kg i think this will last for some considerable time

i've also acquired a bottle of "liquid" weight for those small jobs that have an internally enclosed space for hiding weigt in!

Thanks for all the suggestions - in the end the lead was the most cost effective over a long term.

 

Over 5 years later - I've still got the majority of the lead flashing left!

I think I was right back in 2012 when I said that this was the most cost effective solution, £26.00 over 5 years (so far) £5.20 per year, probably in excess of 30kits that needed the lead so far. I think the lead flashing purchased back in 2012 was a very good bargain!

 

(ps way to go with thread resurrection I thought this one had ceased long ago :))

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  • 3 years later...

While looking for something else, I came across this tape used to weight tennis rackets https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00LPME7VU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 

 

It arrived today, and looks pretty useful - the flat shape makes it a candidate for easily lining side panels, nose wheel bays if you're stuck for space. It has an adhesive, not sure I'd trust it though.

 

Granted lead has its hazards, but it is so malleable it's very useful as a scratch build material as well. Just be sensible with it and wash hands after handling. 

 

Cheers,

 

Colin

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