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Matchbox / Airfix and Revell Halifax Lovechildren


woody37

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Nice looking interior Neil. Should be starting to paint mine in the next few days.

Just out of interest I'm sure I've read somewhere that some halifaxes had black and white kitchen flooring on parts of the interior as this was the factories previous occupation before making halifax sub assemblies. Has anyone else heard this?

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Nice looking interior Neil. Should be starting to paint mine in the next few days.

Just out of interest I'm sure I've read somewhere that some halifaxes had black and white kitchen flooring on parts of the interior as this was the factories previous occupation before making halifax sub assemblies. Has anyone else heard this?

Now that would be cool, although may look rather odd on a model ! Now if anyone can confirm this was the case on W1048, I'd do it !!

Big thans to Rossm, bought another MB Halifax with a boat load of a/m stuff including these little gems to go on it:

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Ross, really appreciate you getting them in the post as quick as you did, much appreciated mate :)

Also got a Stirling with vac clear bits off him, so that'll be getting made soon too !

Edited by woody37
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Stuck the rads on last night and did the tidying up with filler. Also stuck the side intakes on one wing and drilled holes out as they look a bit bare without. Hoping to get the wings finished tonight then I can crack on with the fuselage & tail units.

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It's looking immensely better. One word of warning - do you really need those fuel jettison pipes? They were got rid of fairly early, so it will very much depend just which aircraft you are going to model. I would also question why the ventral outlet should have a shorter door than the inner. Or is this just a misleading photo?

What did you use for the auxiliary inlets?

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It's looking immensely better. One word of warning - do you really need those fuel jettison pipes? They were got rid of fairly early, so it will very much depend just which aircraft you are going to model. I would also question why the ventral outlet should have a shorter door than the inner. Or is this just a misleading photo?

What did you use for the auxiliary inlets?

I don't know about the jetison pipes Graham, References to the aircraft before it's crash are so far illusive. You're right about the outlet, some enthusuastic sanding must of caused this as the other wing is fine :blush:

Problem has been corrected by adding some thin plasticard to all 4 to get them all the same size

Edited by woody37
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Here's the progress so far. The exhaust shrouds in the kit have a convex curve to them, whilst pictures of the real thing show a concave curve so they've been filed to look more correct. Also built the upper leading edges up on the rudders as per Marks (FZ6) advice in his thread. These'll get fettled today. Next step - resume work on the fuselage.

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As to Grahams concern over the fuel jettison pipes, I'm going to stick with them. Whilst I can't tell if this is the actual aircraft I'm building below, the paint scheme and version indicate it to be a similar time to W1048 and it still has the pipes on so that's good enough for me. One of the things I want to portray with this build is the 'lumps and bump's' look of the early Halibags and these are a distinct feature of this look.

800px-Handley_Page_Halifax_Mk_III_ExCC.jpg

Edited by woody37
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If you are doing W1048 then I've no qualms about the jettison pipes. I've been tempted by a warts and all version too, although pulled away by the desert option for an early Mk.II. Don't forget the permanently deployed landing lights on these dragmasters.

Have you any idea what angle the lights sat at ?

I know what you mean, if the Z nose had of been included, this would of been in the desert cleaned up scheme, however that will be the next one :)

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If by "any idea" you mean a reference to the angle anywhere, no. From the photographs, it appears to be around 30 degs back from the vertical, or a bit less. Which is about what it would need to be, for a slow approach at what passed for a high angle of attack in those days. It's a case of suck it and see, with a touch of modellers' licence and what looks good, is good.

If this knowledge is to be found, it will only appear after the finished model is placed on display, but I suppose you could ask Elvington what the deployed angle is on theirs. I wouldn't bet on their having the answer, but otherwise there's always the Handley Page Association. Harry Fraser Mitchell is one of the good people, and very helpful to modellers.

Edit: correction to angle of light.

Edited by Graham Boak
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How much is thick the plastic insert lowering the engine ?

Looks like a mm or more ?

If you have problems, using the WEM exterior kit would be good, it fits beautifully into the Airfix bays once you've trimmed the wing inside. Looking forwards to more pics Tony :)

Here's a close up of the second outer Merlin nacelle with packing fitted to lower it slightly. It's been rough sanded to tidy the join before fitting to the wing.

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Humbrol Liquid Poly is a gem for doing stuff like this. Once the second wing is to the same level as the first, they will get the milliput treatment, trenches filled and then a bloody good rescribe

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Thanks to Ray Ball's fine review in SAMI, I've been looking at other parts of these kits. In particular the ailerons. If you ignore the mistaken chamfer on the upper part, the Revell ailerons are about the right size and shape for the top view, whereas the Matchbox ones are about the right shape for the bottom. With reference to this kit, you could perhaps rescribe the aileron leading edge on the uppersurface- use the Revell one as a scribing guide, perhaps?

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Having put all that work into the wings, I'm going to leave them as is. Thanks for doing some research Graham, the more we know, the better.

One thing that's been bugging me is the blister windows at the front, the kit ones are quite thick and distorted which spoils the look of them. Having been inspired by nobby, I had my first bash at vac forming tonight much to the missus surprise when she walked into the kitchen :lol:

The profile isn't quite right, they should look more like the kit H2S radome in shape, but IMO, they look much better than the kit ones for being clearer. A former was made from miliput and stuck on a piece of plastic which was stuck to an aerosol cap drilled with holes which was stuck on the end of the hoover pipe !!!

The former before it was cut from the lump

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The kit part, a cut vac form part and one waiting to be cut (I've made one spare and about 5 rejects...gulp)

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And a nearly finished part. Sanding it further will reduce it's size and it needs to be cleaned yet...

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Apart from the shape being slightly out, I'm chuffed with what I've done, something new learned thanks to Nobby :)

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Well done that man! Will you be taking orders? :D

Cheers

lol, cheers guys. No orders I'm afraid, I need to look into making something more permanent for vac forming that doesn't involve holding the end of the hoover pipe over the gas hob with beady eyes behind me !!!!!

Now if someone with the tooling was to make a small sheet of these, I'd buy some. not only could they be used on the front, but as previously discussed, underneath too on some a/c

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Finally made a start on priming it. The nose area ia a bit fiddly, the instructions show to fit the turret to the front section then attach the front section to the fuselage, however for painting purposes I didn't want to do that. To get round it, I've had to chop the under part of the turret floor off so I can get it in at a later stage. The bits I cut off have been glued into the nose moulding so that are still there. The wings are only dry fitted at the moment.

Still a lot to do, but at least it's looking like a Halifax now :)

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Thanks to Merlin for posting some good pics of the exhausts over in the other Halifax thread, I've made a minor mod to the ones here by cutting away the ends of the shrouds to give them a more correct look. This was something I'd been looking at doing previously, but couldn't find decent pics to confirm the intention. The great thing about thr Matchbox ones is that there's enough material to chop away to get them looking not too bad.

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On a roll today, first day in ages with not much to do other than cracking on with the model !

Done a dry fit of the revell gear to the Matchbox wing. Two adjustments had to be made to get it looking about right:

1. Cut the little cut out in the gear above the wheel deeper. I used pictures and the airfix kit as a reference to get this about right.

2. Cut about 2.5mm out of the trailing links so that the gear sits at the right angle when connected.

Doing this produces a lovely fit into the bays bearing in mind the rear bulkhead was created, not supplied with the kit.

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Onto the mid upper.

A dry fit shows the turret far too high. Just sanding the base ring doesn't cure the problem because the turret is too wide to recess into the hole. To get round this, the hole was opened up using a dremmel attachment. Doing this elongated the hole due to the curviture of the upper fuselage, which makes it fit the turret well. The base ring was sanded (well, cut and sanded, I would of been there all night !!) to 1.6mm.

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Time for another beer :)

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Today I got the first colour down. I've been using a Badger 350 for years, but recently looked into getting a dual action airbrush but didn't know really where to start and if there would be any benefit. Chris (Stringbag) lent me a Hansa 381 to try (thanks mate, really appreciate it :) ) and I can't believe how much better it is. I can run this at a much lower pressure which seems to suit the acrylics as the spray goes on much finer (15psi vs 20 psi on the Badger). Having seen some amazing paintwork on here, I've never been able to replicate the detail, however today, I've managed to do some panel variation to break the colour up, a first for me :)

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The picture isn't that good I'm afraid. Aiming to get it masked and the green on today.

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