Neal Posted December 19, 2011 Author Share Posted December 19, 2011 (edited) I could do with a bit of advice from the BM collective; Ive not that much experience painting figures but i think Bill and Ben the monkey pilots need a coat of klear and a wash and then a lighter dry brush. For the wash I don't know whether to use the dark or mix a dark red/orange? Edited December 19, 2011 by Neal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cjhm Posted December 19, 2011 Share Posted December 19, 2011 I could do with a bit of advice from the BM collective, Bill and Ben the monkey pilots need a coat of klear and a wash and then a lighter dry brush. For the wash I don't know whether to use the dark or mix a dark red/orange? All looking good so far, my vote would be a brownish\reddy wash, GW Gryphonia Sepia or MIG Neutral are what I am planning for little wedge and his chum when I get that far on the X-wing. I see you're using the pro-modeller (not tried these), not sure if these can be re-wetted if they go on too heavy ? The GW ones are like thin acrylics and are a bugger if you get it wrong but with the MIG ones, as they are enamel a bit of thinner lets you start again easily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neal Posted December 19, 2011 Author Share Posted December 19, 2011 (edited) I see you're using the pro-modeller (not tried these), not sure if these can be re-wetted if they go on too heavy ? The GW ones are like thin acrylics and are a bugger if you get it wrong but with the MIG ones, as they are enamel a bit of thinner lets you start again easily. First time I've used the promodeller wash, I think that they can be removed by rewetting and a bit of a scrub, assuming that it's over a varnish/klear. I'll give them a couple of coats of klear then probably make my own dark red wash with some thinned down acrylics and washing up liquid. Edited December 19, 2011 by Neal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasonb13 Posted December 19, 2011 Share Posted December 19, 2011 Yep, Promodeller can be re-wetted and removed, the more of a gloss coat on the plastic before the wash, the easier it is to remove it. That said, even on a matt coat I've been able to remove a Promodeller wash when needed! J. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Velociweiler Posted December 20, 2011 Share Posted December 20, 2011 I'd agree with you about the red - I've seen models in both plain and with the red banding and those with the red stand out better - the plain ones just don't look right for some reason. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neal Posted December 21, 2011 Author Share Posted December 21, 2011 (edited) Need to get the present wrapping done then I can get on with this.... There are only a few big jobs left, final paint colour, button it all up, paint the red markings, weather it. In reality whenever I think about the next big job I come up with a bucket load of minor jobs that need doing on the way (mask this, klear that, glue the other) I need to make a list otherwise I'll be missing things or getting them in the wrong order. Edited December 21, 2011 by Neal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neal Posted December 21, 2011 Author Share Posted December 21, 2011 Well after 2 hours of unsuccessfully battling to fix the PC (thank God for the iPhone) I thought I'd have 10 minutes doing something that I can actually understand and have an affect on. Put some dark weathering scuffs on the helmets (the red band was already pre-chipped with maskol, and cave them a coat of klear, another coat tomorrow and then I can add a wash. Not a lot, but very therapeutic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Velociweiler Posted December 22, 2011 Share Posted December 22, 2011 I built this one in 1990 and tried to replace the Pilots with those from a Fujimi racing driver set. The Snowspeeder cockpt had absolutely zero leg room so I ended up cutting off the pilots legs high at the thigh and still had to lean them back heavily so's the lid could clamp down properly. Unfortunately, the original pattern maker in 1980 (the kit first appeared at the toyfairs in early 1981) realised very early on that to add pilots to the model, they'd have to have fairly odd shapes to fit the kit. I think there were some reasonable looking resincast replacements available from the USA around fifteen years ago, but they were expensive, and weren't around for long... However, once the kit figures are dun'n'dusted and are placed into the cockpit, they really don't look too bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neal Posted December 22, 2011 Author Share Posted December 22, 2011 (edited) "However, once the kit figures are dun'n'dusted and are placed into the cockpit, they really don't look too bad." They do have a certain retro charm as well... Edited December 22, 2011 by Neal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neal Posted December 22, 2011 Author Share Posted December 22, 2011 (edited) Used the promodeller dark wash on the helmets and white parachute (?) made dark red wash for the orange, used white with a touch of orange to dry brush the suit. Unturned Pringles lids were ideal for mixing this little lot on..... And all in the office. The pilots arms are a bit long (should've done more dry fitting) so they needed removing and lifting up. Not a good as Dan's Viper cockpit, but I'm pleased with it. http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=78877 Edited December 23, 2011 by Neal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neal Posted December 23, 2011 Author Share Posted December 23, 2011 (edited) Finally mixed the top colour and gave everything a first coat, there's a surprising amount to do and took ages with the brush. The mix was 40% XF-2, 40% XF-80, 20% XF-55. Looked a bit creamy initially but seems to be drying a bit lighter. Typically I don't think I've mixed enough for the second coat so might go a bit lighter & greyer with the next batch. Doesn't actually look that different from when I started. I think that'll be it for anymore progress before the new year, Merry Christmas and thanks for looking Edited December 24, 2011 by Neal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neal Posted December 27, 2011 Author Share Posted December 27, 2011 (edited) I was thinking about some of the weathering once all the painting is complete; for the blast damage I'm going to dry brush most of it but without an airbrush I may need to use some pastels or some of those Tamiya weathering kits for AFV's, any opinions or direction from the BM collective brain? Edited December 27, 2011 by Neal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Velociweiler Posted December 27, 2011 Share Posted December 27, 2011 I was thinking about some of the weathering once all the painting is complete; for the blast damage I'm going to dry brush most of it but without an airbrush I may need to use some pastels or some of those Tamiya weathering kits for AFV's, any opinions or direction from the BM collective brain? Frequently the studio originals were simply spraycan blasted with paint since there was a severe time pressure on their completion. During ESB and the earlier film, there was only limited airbrushing generally applied for exhaust streaks etc. A glance at the photos of the originals shows one technique they used fairly often. Use your Tamiya pastels to smudge a larger area with a dark burn, and then either with very thin card or even tape, scab a pale painted panel over the smudge, leaving a 'repaired' section over the damaged paintwork. With other coloured panelled areas, you may wish to leave some irregular swabs of Humbrol maskol on the first coat prior to painting a second colour over (for example the darker greys or the red areas of the Snowspeeder). Once the upper colours are fully dry, pick the maskol masking solution out leaving a damaged section of the paintwork. Naturally, don't be scared to pick at the paint irregularly with the tip of a scalpel blade, scoring and scratching areas which would be lifted by maintenance or rearming teams. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neal Posted December 28, 2011 Author Share Posted December 28, 2011 Frequently the studio originals were simply spraycan blasted with paint since there was a severe time pressure on their completion. During ESB and the earlier film, there was only limited airbrushing generally applied for exhaust streaks etc. A glance at the photos of the originals shows one technique they used fairly often. Use your Tamiya pastels to smudge a larger area with a dark burn, and then either with very thin card or even tape, scab a pale painted panel over the smudge, leaving a 'repaired' section over the damaged paintwork. With other coloured panelled areas, you may wish to leave some irregular swabs of Humbrol maskol on the first coat prior to painting a second colour over (for example the darker greys or the red areas of the Snowspeeder). Once the upper colours are fully dry, pick the maskol masking solution out leaving a damaged section of the paintwork. Naturally, don't be scared to pick at the paint irregularly with the tip of a scalpel blade, scoring and scratching areas which would be lifted by maintenance or rearming teams. Thanks for the advice it helps at lot, as I've said before the whole weathering frankly scares me, I'm sure it'll be ok when I get going but still..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neal Posted December 31, 2011 Author Share Posted December 31, 2011 Tamiya snow, soot & rust weathering set ordered. I think the rust will be useful as I imagine the weather on Hoth is not too kind to ferrous metals (assuming there's some iron in a galaxy far far away) Will they be ok to be brushed over with klear or will they smear everywhere? Hoping to get some modelling done over the next couple of nights. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasonb13 Posted January 1, 2012 Share Posted January 1, 2012 I have the same Tamiya set, but I've never got to use the Snow. Have used the others a lot and they're very good! Very easy to put on & they look great! I normally put them on last. So, for example, I'd do a Gloss coat, then decals, then another Gloss coat, then a panel wash, then the final coat ( normally Flat coat for me ) and *then* the Tamiya weathering. I'm not sure how easy they'd come off ( though thankfully it's hard to put on too much! ) or what would happen if I put another coat on top of them, I never tried that. I'd be worried about putting a wet coat of anything on top of what is basically powder, in case it just turned into a wash. Hope that helps? J. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neal Posted January 1, 2012 Author Share Posted January 1, 2012 (edited) I have the same Tamiya set, but I've never got to use the Snow. Have used the others a lot and they're very good! Very easy to put on & they look great!I normally put them on last. So, for example, I'd do a Gloss coat, then decals, then another Gloss coat, then a panel wash, then the final coat ( normally Flat coat for me ) and *then* the Tamiya weathering. I'm not sure how easy they'd come off ( though thankfully it's hard to put on too much! ) or what would happen if I put another coat on top of them, I never tried that. I'd be worried about putting a wet coat of anything on top of what is basically powder, in case it just turned into a wash. Hope that helps? J. Jason, The process you described so clearly is a great help. Thanks. Does the tamiya powder stay put once your done? Edited January 1, 2012 by Neal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasonb13 Posted January 1, 2012 Share Posted January 1, 2012 No worries! Yep, it stays on, but if you rubbed your finger over it a lot I'm sure some of it would stay on your finger, so that's another reason why I do it last. I put it on and then put the model on the shelf! But it's not so loose that it would come off if you just blew at it for example. You get a brush and a sponge with the kit, but I've only ever really used the sponge. One of the reasons is the powder is quite hard, so I don't think the brush actually takes much up of it, whereas you can give the sponge a good rub in it, and then on the spots you want on the build. I really do find it great, easy to use and it looks good. I use it a lot for exhaust stains etc. J. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neal Posted January 1, 2012 Author Share Posted January 1, 2012 I really do find it great, easy to use and it looks good. I use it a lot for exhaust stains etc.J. Hopefully it'll do the job for cannon blast marks as well......thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neal Posted January 1, 2012 Author Share Posted January 1, 2012 (edited) Made some progress tonight; firstly a second coat of the final colour, had to mix a second batch of paint but got a good match which had dried to the correct shade. I've got to start getting some of the big bits glued together now, so I removed the maskol from the centre section of the lower body. And attached it in place: I was a bit worried that there wasn't going to be enough contrast between the paint colours to make the maskol effective, but looks good & not too overbearing. I then taped up and painted the rear pods Apart from the red markings I've also added a lighter LE that I've seen on some photos. I should've packed up and let it all dry but I couldn't help unwrapping on one of the pods, what do you think? needs a bit of touching up still, but I'm really pleased. Edited January 2, 2012 by Neal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neal Posted January 2, 2012 Author Share Posted January 2, 2012 (edited) Realised this morning that I've still got the red markings to do on the underside and I shouldn't have removed all the maskol! Time to get the purple gloop out again Edited January 2, 2012 by Neal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neal Posted January 4, 2012 Author Share Posted January 4, 2012 (edited) Spent a bit if time tidying up the second upper airbrake and doing some dry fitting, this showed up a few things: 1. The general fit of the parts is pretty good, better than I expected from the age of the kit 2. I should read the instructions then I wouldn't have to take the air brake arm off the airbrake to make it all fit together. 3. It's going to be a ten handed job to get the upper a lower body parts fixed together. The lack of detail around the rear is starting to bother me a bit, might try add some ribs or something (see what's in the spares pile) so it looks a bit more like this: http://www.modelermagic.com/wordpress/wp-c..._orange-023.jpg There can only be 6 or 7 weeks left of the GB! So I'll have get a shift on. Edited January 5, 2012 by Neal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neal Posted January 6, 2012 Author Share Posted January 6, 2012 (edited) Bit of touching up of parts that were already painted and actually gluing parts together. Fitted the rear screen and the cockpit Hopefully I can get it all buttoned up over the weekend. Tamiya weathering set arrived as well Thanks for looking and as always comments, opinions & criticism is welcome. Edited January 6, 2012 by Neal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Azgaron Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 Nice work so far Neal! Looking good! Cheers, Håkan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neal Posted January 7, 2012 Author Share Posted January 7, 2012 Nice work so far Neal! Looking good!Cheers, Håkan Håkan, Thanks. There a some details I'm not very happy about that don't show in the photos, but overall I'm pleased with it so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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